1630 Enroute from Fiji to Noumea, New Caledonia.
o/c 235ºM, 4.5–5 kts; winds SE 18-22. Maui jib only.
DR posit: 21º 06.2S – 171º 22.1E
1725 Large vessel sighted broad on stbd. bow on horizon; probably bound for Noumea. An ore carrier?
1800 Vessel crossing ahead of my course – 4 miles. Perhaps on great circle S.F. – Sydney?… Monitoring Ch. 16, no activity.
2000 Satfix: 21º 18.0S – 171º 06.5E. SMG since 1000 = 4.7
25 Sept. – Thurs.
0035 Large vessel overtaking astern… Almost on same course! Ch. 16 on. Prepare spotlight. Try calling on Ch. 16, no response.
0049 Just finished speaking with 2nd mate of vessel on VHF. He saw us ahead & wondered what kind of “ship” we were. He is a 32,000 ton container ship from (home port Panama but out of Seattle) Panama bound for China (Sydney?). His English not too clear, but enough to understand. Said we’re the 1st vessel they’ve seen this voyage (and he’s the third I’ve seen…). It took 15 min. from when I sighted him astern ‘til he overtook us 1 mile to port…
0310 Satfix: 21º 31.2S – 170º 36.2E
0700 Continuing along nicely with the wind off the port quarter. It’s gone down a bit compared to yesterday afternoon, but we’re still probably making a good 4 kts. under Maui jib alone. If it drops any more we’ll put up the mizzen drifter. There’s quite a roll now & then when Rhysling yaws. Lots of banging & clanging in the galley. A breeze wafting down the companionway. A change in sleeping rhythm – all these are new as I’ve never sailed off the wind as much on Rhysling. They’re a pleasure to get used to compared to bashing to windward.
Rigged the spare jib halyard to the stemhead as a backup to the forestay as it really works a lot on the rolls. Thank goodness it’s toggled[1]…
0830 Slight leak around head discharge thru-hull. Don’t want to tighten too much for fear of breaking shaft. Will wait ‘til in port to tighten more. Also water backflowing into bowl after use. Am keeping both seacocks closed except when using the head. Will tackle (yuk!) it in Noumea. Ah, the joys of cruising.
1056 Satfix: 21º 37.7S – 170º 03.2E. SMG since 0334 = 4.0
ETA vicinity of Durand Reef: 2330 (2230 new (L) time)
ETA Havannah Pass @ 4 kts: 0600 27 Sept. (0500 new (L) time)
1200 Wx shows we should have ESE winds for the next few days, at least, and not too strong.
1230 Rig mizzen drifter to slow rolling (don’t know if it helps…perhaps slightly) and increase speed – wind diminishing.
1300-
1200 Retard ships clocks 1 hr. to conform with –11 time zone.
1224 Satfix: 21º 39.8S – 169º 50.6E
1300 Wind decreasing – 6-10 kts.
1400 Lube steering & Aries.
1800 Moving along nicely o/c 240ºM at 4-4.5 kts. Got some delicious licorice at the ship’s store and it’s really sending me…
26 Sept. – Fri.
0146 Satfix: 22º 00.3S – 168º 34.1E
0215 For the past 2 hours I’ve been watching the course carefully & looking for Durand Reef – a shallow patch 6-9’ and about 2/3 mi. diameter. Our course came close to it, but it wasn’t visible at all, even with the moon up.
We’re rolling right along with a slight sea, but enough breeze to push us well (Maui jib and mizz. drifter). Must have picked up a favorable current because though the winds are lighter than yesterday, our speed has noticeably increased (5.9 kts!).
0600 Very black clouds loaded with rain to the S & E. Moving our way. Down the mizzen drifter in case there’s any wind with them.
0608 Wind increasing…
0615 Good call! It’s blasting through astern – about 25 kts. Rain.
0640 Wind & rain abating, but more perhaps later…
0700 Wind shift to NW. Gibe. Another black mother is tailing our stbd. qtr… and catching up…
0800 Wind slowly veering back toward E.
0915 The wind is out of the east – appears to be increasing (20-25), but we’re running with it so it’s quite wonderful. Still lots of ominous black clouds to E & south of us.
ETA at Havannah Pass at present speed is 2000 tonight. Will change sails and heave to this afternoon about 5-10 miles out, perhaps even a bit further. There are quite a few reefs on the SE side and I doubt that there will be many lights visible.
1100 Wx shows winds should be ESE & not too strong. They seem to be decreasing now (14-16). Perhaps it was a combination of passing showers & some land/sea breeze effect. Sky is clearing now also.
1200 Satfix: 22º 10.1S – 167º 39.3E. SMG = 5.3
1320 New Caledonia in sight ahead.
1500 Down Maui jib; change to high wind[2] jib. o/c 210ºM, 3-4 kts. Wind E 26-28 kts.
1700 o/c 210ºM – 220ºM with h.w. jib only. Winds gusting over 30 kts. Seas about 6’; occasionally boarding (slapping?) our quarter. Mizzen reefed & ready to put up whenever I want to heave-to (probably 5-10 miles outside the reefs).
1835 Heave-to on stbd. tack – heading 340ºM
1900 Engine on to charge batts.
2000 Westward drift rate more than 1 kt. Set jib on stbd. tack. o/c 025ºM, 1.5 kts(?).
2100 Engine secured.
2340 Satfix: 22º 08.1S – 167º 10.6E
27 Sept. – Sat.
0000 Continue o/c 030ºM with h.w. jib & mizzen – offshore New Caledonia coast awaiting dawn.
0200 Onto port tack o/c 180ºM. Winds have been a good 26-32 knots all night with some muncher seas.
0530 Single reef in main. Up main, down mizzen. On course to Goro Light & Canal de la Havannah.
0630 Transit Havannah Passage
0715 Down h. wind jib; up Maui jib for fresh following wind.
0728 Iso Reef Lt. abeam port.
0810 Prony Bay Lt. abeam stbd. Down main; running dead downwind with Maui jib only. Wow! Flat water and a 20 kt. wind… Exhilarating. and beautiful scenery. Both coconut trees and pine trees growing in this climate. Yes, the hillsides are scarred by the mining, but the reds & browns have a pleasant look about them, especially in the early morning light…
0830 SatNav secured.
0835 I. Montravel abeam stbd., enter Canal Woodin.
0853 Ile Quen lt. abeam port.
0908 Mt. Woodin abeam port.
0915 Exit Canal Woodin.
0920 o/c 270ºM toward I. Porc. Epic
0940 Ia Pic abeam stbd., o/c 275ºM
1115 I. Porc Epic Lt. abeam stbd.
1128 Basse Prevoyante buoy abeam close to port.
1230 Gybe, final approach – engine on –
1235 Rig anchor – engine off due to airlock.
1315 Anchored by sail at NW corner Noumea Harbor in 25’ water. After engine failed I made decision to sail into the harbor since it was blowing a steady 30 kts. outside. To try bleeding system would have caused us to drift rapidly into nearby shoals. Even tho I released the jib sheets halfway across the harbor, the strong wind carried Rhysling rapidly toward shore. Anchor grabbed but chain overrode the wildcat & it was all I could do to stop it. Possibly broke left little finger, bruised two others & gashed right ankle on wildcat.
1430 Engine bled & running.
1438 Call to Noumea Radio Ch. 16 re. clearing in. Directed to moor alongside wharf at “Yellow X”.
1500 Anchor up, u/w
1530 Moored portside to Municipal Wharf awaiting clearance.
1900 Immigration to wharf says they’ll be down in the morning. Sleep…..
28 Sept. – Sun.
0900 Customs & Immigration aboard. Very courteous and helpful.
1041 Officials ashore. All clear with 1 month visa which can be extended.
29 Sept. – Mon.
a.m. Exchange $; P.O., errands, shopping, etc.
1240 Shift to anchorage due to ship arrival (Coriolis).
1300 Anchored in 20’ water, Bai de la Moselle. Assisted by local friend Edward and John of “Albatross IV”
p.m. Dinner with Dave, Chris, Kim & Andrea aboard “Spellbound”
30 Sept. – Tues.
Scrub port side (black fender marks from wharf). Install new Whale galley foot pump. Works great!
Errands, shopping.
1 Oct. – Wed.
Visit Warren & family (N.Z.) aboard “Emma Jane” to discuss diesel prob. Mini magic show. Rig “gravity tank” to check possibility of air entering suction end of system. Start & run engine at 1200 & 1700 – both 2 sec. starts. Can this be the problem?…
p.m. Visit New Caledonia Musee.
2 Oct. – Thurs.
0830-
0900 Engine test with gravity tank. 2 sec. start.
Check & tighten vacuum gauge connection from primary fuel filter.
1400 Friends Edward & Francis aboard for visit.
1700 Eng. test – 2 sec. start.
3 Oct. – Fri.
1100 Eng. test with “gravity” tank below engine: 5 sec. start.
Remove fuel line connection at tank. Check fittings. Small crack discovered at fitting with pipe which screws into tank top. Warren of “Emma Jane” helps me braise new fitting to pipe.
Check for other possible leaks with hand pump. None visible. Eng. test after re-connecting all: 1 sec. start.
4 Oct. – Sat.
To Noumea Aquarium with Edward & Francis.
p.m. Eng. test – 1-2 sec. start…so the problem may finally be solved!…
Top off all water jugs.
5 Oct. – Sun.
0600 Prepare to get u/w.
0640 Eng. check. Add ½ qt. SAE 30 to xmission.
0655 Anchor up; u/w from Bai de la Moselle
0800 B. Ouere Shoal abeam stbd. SMG = 5.0
0850 Basse Prevoyante Lt. abeam stbd.
0910 Porc Epic Lt. abeam port, o/c 045ºM
1100 Enter Canal de Noodin, headwind opposing tide (ebb), short chop, swirls, etc. Hug shore by Ile Quen.
1157 Ile Quen Lt. abeam stbd.
1230 Enter Baie du Prony. Rain, drizzle.
1350 Anchored in 6’ water (!) – N corner Baie du Prony. Very calm; landlocked.
1430 Ashore to explore – investigate sound of water – small stream found after rowing dinghy through channel between mangroves. Lots of singing birds and small pools. Spring water – delicious! Harvest ½ bucket of oysters from nearby rocks (saltwater) – low tide. Wonderful pan fried oysters with butter & garlic, French bread & wine.
Allen of yacht “Sea Bird”, France, over to trade books & discuss wx broadcasts (mutual friends of people on yacht “Moyra”).
0700 Change press. H2O filter.
Transfer fuel to main tank. Approx. total on hand: 90 gal. (70 gal. main; 20 gal. aft)
Re-align timing marks on fuel injection pump for possible better fuel consumption. Eng. test – 5 sec. start.
1215 Re-anchor in “deeper” water – 12’.
1230 Ashore for afternoon by stream – sunning, reading, relaxing (wish it could always be this way). More oysters for dinner.
1630 Dinghy aboard; preparations to get u/w early tomorrow a.m.
7 Oct. – Tues.
0515 Prepare to get u/w
0535 Engine on.
1545 Anchor up, u/w from Baie du Prony anchorage.
0705 Pte. Est Lt. abeam port.
0805 Ioro Rf. Lt. abeam stbd. – SMG = 4.5
0935 Goro Lt. abeam port, transit Havannah Passage (lots of eddies & strange currents – slack water)
Light NE wind – 5 kts. – continue under power.
1035 Pass over I. Nau shoal
1150 Up Maui jib, motorsail o/c 310ºM
1115 Down jib – light headwind.
1215 On range to Port Yaté; French naval vessel (PG53) anchored mid-channel.
1245 Anchored in 15’ water, Port Yaté.
1400 Ashore to mail letters & buy bread. Met 4 fishermen who shared their catch with me. Delicious fish dinner.
8 Oct. – Wed.
0530 Prepare to get u/w. Eng. check. Light wind from W.
0615 u/w from Port Yaté.
0630 Yaté entrance rocks abeam port, o/c 345ºM. Rig Maui jib.
0720 o/c 295ºM – 5 kt. NW wind… on the nose. Continue motoring.
0835 Unia bn[3] abeam port.
0850 Unia Rfs. ab’m port – P.O.D[4] o/c 295ºM
1010 Uinné Harbor ent. ab’m port.
1045 Kuakue Bay ent. ab’m port
1100 Secure engine to receive wx broadcast.
1115 Engine on – u/w o/c 295ºM
1315 SE end of N. Goe Reef ab’m port. French Navy vessel PG53 anchored at Uemie Rf.
1345 Uemie Rf. Cay ab’m stbd. o/c 305ºM toward E point of Tupeti Is.
1445 SE tip of Tupeti Is. ab’m port.
1510 Enter Port Bouquet (SE channel)
1610 Anchored in 15’ water, SE end of Nemmeni Peninsula. Average SMG = 4.9.
Another day of motoring due to direct headwinds (NW) – just opposite of what they should be.
Will probably wait at Port Bouquet at least a day for more favorable winds, otherwise will make shorter jumps by sail, tacking, rather than motor so much – I’m using up too much diesel! So far the weather has been great – hot, sunny days, cool nights. The coastline is quite beautiful with red scarred soil contrasting green bush, pines & palms. Some sandy beaches below lofty mountains.
Port Yaté just a little village. So small the lady at the store had to count her loaves of bread to see if she could sell me a loaf (guess she knows just how many people will buy after work). Port Boquet is much bigger than expected. Surrounded by mountains, it’s really quite natural. Some sign of mining activity on the hills, and a few houses & plantation at the SE end, but where I’m anchored there’s no sign of civilization, just birds singing and the water lapping Rhysling’s hull. Really quite peaceful.
9 Oct. – Thurs.
0800 Change of plans. Poss. light SE wind. Will get u/w at least as far as Lavaissiere Bay, further if conditions warrant… prepare to get u/w.
0825 Anchor up (after clearing chain of lots of red clay!). u/w continuing up coast.
0850 P.O.D. Boquet Reefs – o/c 290ºM. Very light breeze apparently from SE – perhaps 1 kt.
1008 Thio Rock ab’m port (Buatamere Rock).
1115 Kinde Reefs ab’m stbd.
1118 “Strafed” by low flying Army (?) chopper from out of Naketi Bay. Caught with my pants down!
1230 Anchored in 20’ water at W corner of Nani Is. Lovely spot with sandy beach & coconut grove. Totally uninhabited. Light breeze apparently from N, but poss. E or SE wrapping around island.
1600 Wind from NW. Light but persistent. Up anchor and u/w to NW corner of bay so we won’t be on a lee shore (that coral in the shallows looks too close!).
1630 Anchored in 25’ water (I’ll sleep better now!)
Spent the afternoon walking the beach & looking at shells, etc. Felt like a real Robinson Crusoe especially when I discovered footprints. But no people around. Met one wild goat, found one nice nautilus shell for Cisco.
1900 Echo from the anchorage. Have you ever done an echo before?…
10 Oct. – Fri.
0535 Eng. check, prepare to get u/w
0550 Anchor up, u/w from Lavaissiere Bay.
0600 Transit pass.
0615 Enter S pass of Bagota Reefs. Mirror smooth water. Lots of fish, one strike but not hooked.
0715 Exit N pass of Bagota Reefs.
0730 Cape Dumoulin ab’m port. o/c 190ºM. Continued calm.
0745 Lt. breeze from SSW. Up Maui jib, motorsail.
0825 Cape Bega ab’m port, down jib – calm.
0900 Enter Kouaoua Bay – tuna jumping everywhere but no strikes.
0905 Buzzed twice by Army (?) chopper coming from seaward. Saw ‘em this time & got 2 photos. Side doors were open & all the crew waving.
0925 Anchored in 30’ water, Kouaoua Bay, off town front. A small mining settlement.
1330 Ashore to mail letter & go to store. Visit with 3 Gendarmes at quay – on duty from France. Very nice visit. Ride in Jeep to P.O. Bread, wine & vegs. from general store.
1600 Heard breathing off stbd. side & sure enough it was a pod of Cetacea cruising about 100 yds. distant in the harbor. Poss. Spenella (4-6) but not pos. id.
1700 “Boarded” by 6 children who paddled out on a sailboard (Mistral?). Bubble gum & magic.
1730 All ashore.
General cleanup; correspondence.
Visit by my 3 Gendarme friends, then later ashore to visit their mountain “retreat” – a small fortification unit. All personnel stationed here from France. A fun & interesting visit.
12 Oct. – Sun.
Big project: Dismantle flooring in head to gain access to sump & pump (which seems to be malfunctioning). Clean gook from sump box & pump. Belt slipped off pump drive. Re-assemble. Re-install. Seems to still not work properly. Check hoses & thru-hull. Check proper rotation etc. Re-install. Seems to work ok now. Replace flooring, etc.
1400 Ashore to beach for magic show – about 14 children & 6 or 8 adults. Visit with locals, etc.
1600 Back aboard for N.Z. wx broadcast (N.C. poor reception – mountains, bounce?) & early dinner. Prepare for early a.m. departure for Noumea by autobus…
13 Oct. – Mon.
0230 Ashore to catch bus to Noumea
0600-
1500 To Immigration for visa extension – no problems, just a lot of running around, pp photo, etc. General errands in Noumea.
1815 Back at Kouaoua by bus. PP[5] at imm. office downtown Noumea until I return. Visa good until 27 Nov.
14 Oct. – Tues.
0600 Refill water jugs ashore, prepare to get u/w.
0700 Rig Maui jib & mizzen drifter (SE wind!).
0800 Goodbyes to Gendarme friends. To store for vin rouge… Nav. lesson to local…
0930 Anchor up; u/w. Wind shift to NNE – motor to Kuea Pt.
1000 Maui jib up, secure engine, Kuea Pt. ab’m port. o/c 310ºM.
1045 Up mizzen drifter, wind ENE 15-18. Wonderful sailing!
1110 Cape Kua ab’m port.
1138 RW[6] buoy #2 ab’m port – SMG = 5.2!
1145 Fish on line!
1205 Landed
1250 Cape Bocage ab’m port.
1330 Down mizzen drifter.
1355 Gibe; enter Ugué Baie, eng. on.
1410 Anchored in 20’ water, Baie Ugué.
1415 Engine secured.
1500 Ashore to share fish with local man. “Charlie” aboard for visit; joined by friend from boat.
1600 Both ashore.
1715 Gendarme aboard by boat to check what I’m doing – all okay.
1740 Ashore (Gendarme). Finish preparing fish dinner.
Anchorage somewhat animated due to exposure to NE, but it gives us a rest before continuing on to Touho
Delicious fish dinner!…
15 Oct. – Wed.
0600 Prepare to get u/w. Lube steering, Aries & windlass.
0645 Anchor up; u/w from Ugué Baie.
0700 Up Maui jib, secure engine. Wind ESE 10-15, P.O.D. Ugué Baie Pt. o/c 315ºM
0755 Karu Is. ab’m stbd. SMG = 4.0.
0830 Up mizzen drifter
1015 Cape Baye ab’m port, wind down to 8-12. o/c 308ºM.
1050 Tidiauot Is. ab’m port. SMG = 4.2
1120 Wind increase: 14-16 – joyous sailing!
1155 Bonite Passage Reef ab’m stbd. SMG = 5.3!
1300 Down mizzen drifter, Atit Is. ab’m port; engine on, down Maui jib.
1310 Enter E channel, Touho.
1330 Anchored in 18’ of Turquoise blue water – (sand bottom) Touho.
1335 Engine secured. Clean up.
1500 Ashore for bread & wine.
16 Oct. – Thurs.
0700 Visit by Roland & Joselyn (local fishermen/divers).
0900 Ashore to Tribo de Kongouma to visit Edouard Thini family.
1900 Dinner at Joselyn & Florence’s house, also with Roland
17 Oct. – Fri.
0730 Prepare to shift to Touho Jetty for H2O and “open house”.
0815 Engine on.
0825 u/w
0835 Docked stbd. side to concrete jetty, Touho. Visitors from Tribo Congouma aboard. Beaucoup visitors from Touho throughout the day.
1400 Top off all water tanks.
18 Oct. – Sat.
0800 Prepare to get u/w – goodbyes to visitors.
0930 u/w from Touho Jetty.
0945 Up Maui jib, secure engine.
0955 Up mizzen drifter. Wind ENE 8-10. o/c 275ºM.
1125 Uad Is. ab’m stbd. SMG = 4-4.5.
1200 Ab’m Kongouma – de Tribo port. Mirror signals from friends.
1220 Two board from Kongouma circle Rhysling to say au revoir’s.
1245 Iengu Is. ab’m stbd.
1315 Wind dropping, 2-4 kts; shift to NNW.
1320 Down mizzen drifter.
1330 Engine on; motorsail due to lt. headwind.
1345 Down Maui jib.
1355 2 fish on lines! Both landed.
1440 Enter Hienghene Harbor.
1455 Aground on sand bar while attempting to go up river to anchorage.
1500 Worked off, u/w.
1503 Aground again. Poss. not enough water yet, or silted in since cruising guide was published.
1520 Stern anchor out to hold against incoming current & wind. Out in dinghy to take soundings. Awaiting higher tide (flooding).
1600 Local man & wife in canoe visit Rhysling. Offer advice on entering anchorage. I give them fish. u/w to anchorage after kedging off, canoe in tow.
1620 Anchored in 20’ water, mid-river, at town of Hienghene.
1800 Ashore for bread & wine. Invited to fête with local people. Big party 20 km. away in the mountains.
19 Oct. – Sun.
0330 Arrive back aboard Rhysling after an interesting time at the fête. All Kanaky people – most very nice, some quite drunk. Lots of dancing. Food, drinks & games. Returning with Pascual he runs into a tree! Fortunately neither of us injured, just shaken up. Truck damaged, won’t run, so we walk to a house and Pascual’s friend drives us to Hienghene.
0900 Ashore to hitch to Ouanpoue’s to visit Edouard’s grandparents. Long walk, few cars, no rides. Difficult to locate house. Return with ride from schoolteacher.
1400 Laundry day on Rhysling.
20 Oct. – Mon.
0700 Shopping – wine & bread – P.O.
0900 Ride to Ouanpoue’s with Francois – relative of Edouard’s. Visit with grandparents & cousins. Return by walking & hitching.
1530 Back aboard.
21 Oct. – Tues.
0630 Prepare to get u/w. Await high tide (1 hr. before) to exit river anchorage.
0715 Eng. check. Clear raw water filter.
0745 Local man alongside in canoe to say goodbye and give bananas. Anchor up; u/w.
0805 Grazed bottom in shallowest area at bend in river (where I went aground on way in). No problem, moving slowly.
0815 Depart Hienghene Harbor.
0820 Up Maui jib.
0825 Engine secured. Very light ENE breeze.
0830 Up mizzen drifter. o/c 295ºM. 2 kts.(?)
0925 Dead calm. Down sails; eng. on. Motor toward beach where Fisdiepa’s family are waving goodbye.
0950 Anchored in 25’ water at Ouanpoue’s. Philibert and grandson. Gue out in boat to see Rhysling
1050 Visitors ashore; engine on.
1055 u/w. Motor in calm.
1110 Lt. NNE breeze; up Maui jib, motorsail.
1130 Ab’m Wicien Gorge, port.
1145 Panie Reef ab’m stbd.
1157 Panie Reef bn ab’m stbd.
1220 Great cascade ab’m port. Fantastic!
1315 o/c 287ºM.
1330 Down Maui jib, secure mizzen drifter
1335 Fish on line & landed
1345 Enter Tiaue Pass – rain.
1505 Anchored in 25’ near Pt. Henry Puebo. Difficult to approach closer due to poor visibility and scattered reefs.
1515 Ashore to give fish to Kanaky’s
1600 Dive to check Rhysling’s bottom after groundings – no prob. Few scratches & removed scum from bottom of keel. Bottom still quite clean.
22 Oct. – Wed.
0755 Engine on.
0800 u/w to anchorage close to Puebo Town for shopping.
0820 Anchored in 20’ water between coral heads.
0830 Ashore for shopping (bread & wine…what else!)
Chat with local Kanaky’s at store & landing – some magic.
0840 Back aboard. Wind from ESE. Prepare to get u/w.
0950 u/w from between coral heads. To pass.
1010 Transit pass at inner reefs; exit Puebo.
1015 Maui jib up, secure engine. Passed on portside by white vessel – French – all hands waving – gov’t.(?)
1030 Mizzen drifter up. o/c 298ºM
1045 Bully Pt. ab’m port.
1207 Balad Reef bn ab’m port, wind ENE 8-10 – delightful!
1242 Freycinet Flat bn ab’m stbd., o/c 278ºM
1245 Monument of Capt. Cook’s first landing ab’m port.
1355 Amoss Headland ab’m port.
1425 Mirror signals from ashore near Tiari Pt., returned.
1445 Tiari Pt. ab’m port.
1540 Down mizzen drifter.
1545 Engine on; down jib.
1550 Enter Diahot River.
1605 Anchored in 20’ off abandoned copper mine.
1610 Engine secured.
2350 Blasting E winds 18-25, shifty. Poss. jumping anchor. More scope out (to 130’). 20’ water.
23 Oct. – Thurs.
0700 Continued gusty 20-30 kt. E winds. Will probably remain here today for winds to abate before transiting Alcmene & Davarenne Channels; we’ll see what the 1100 wx report says…
0830 More scope out, due to excessive gusts & Rhysling “sailing” on anchor (155’ out).
1300 Wind continuing to increase: Sustained 30 kts. – 30+ gusts
24 Oct. – Fri.
0630 Prepare to get u/w.
0700 Anchor up; u/w from Diahot River Anchorage.
0710 Up Maui jib; secure engine.
0721 Paam Is. entrance bn ab’m port. 18-22 kt. NE wind. Fantastic sailing – broad reach.
0738 Balbio Rf. bn ab’m stbd. SMG = 6.4!
0747 Taabam Is. Rf. bn ab’m port.
0803 Pass over 18’ patch, mid channel.
0821 #2 Balbio Rf. bn ab’m stbd. – exit Alcmene Channel
0843 #3 Balbio Rf. bn ab’m stbd; enter Devarenne Channel.
0855 Sand Cay Rf. bn ab’m port.
0907 #2 Sand Cay Rf. bn ab’m port.
0920 St. Phalle Is. Rf. bn ab’m stbd. o/c 303ºM.
0930 St. Phalle Is. ab’m stbd. Possible Dugong(?) sighted portside 100’.
0943 Fish on line.
0950 Escaped while hauling aboard – a big one, too!
1015 Daugae Is. ab’m port. Wind 20-25 – exhilarating sailing – beam reach – SMG = 5.7.
1025 N tip of mainland ab’m port
1115 Fish on line & landed while entering shortcut N of Paaba Is.
1118 Enter “shortcut” between Tenaghi & Ti-Â Islands.
1125 Transit north tip – E to W New Caledonia.
1140 Jibe; o/c 147ºM
1205 Taanlai Is. ab’m port.
1255 Tie Is. ab’m port.
1317 Yaba Is. ab’m port.
1330 Sky darkening; thought it was rain, but it’s smoke coming from ENE!
1350 Transit between Mouac & Tu-Ave Islands.
1400 Engine on, down Maui jib.
1420 Anchored in 15’ water, Poum.
1425 Secure engine. Average speed: 5.9!
1610 Ashore to store for bread & wine.
Meet local Gendarmes
1800 “Pot luck” dinner at Gendarmerie with fish I caught & their food. Video after. Great group of people (9). All from France. Bought wine (4 bottles – French) & they gave me bread. Good time. Dinghy “chauffeured” in truck!
25 Oct. – Sat.
0700 Prepare to get u/w. Eng. check. Add water to some cells in batteries.
0745 Anchor up; u/w.
0805 Up Maui jib.
0820 Secure eng. o/c 134ºM – 0-20 kt. gusts off hills of Pome Peninsula.
0855 S. tip Pome Pen. ab’m port.
0900 Close call with reef & sandbar near tip of Peninsula. Poss. charted further off. Hidden by jib.
0920 Up mizzen. Wind down to 10-14 – beam reach.
1000 Ti-Ao Is. ab’m port. 3-4 dolphins cruising in area – poss. Stenella. SMG 5.0! Winds light but favorable current with flood tide.
1040 Wind shifting slightly to NNE 8-12 – beautiful, gentle broad reach.
1100 2-3 more dolphins portside.
1112 Oahim Boa Is. ab’m port. Wind shifting north. We’re running!
1120 Down mizzen.
1130 Set mizzen drifter.
1140 Jibe jib – wing & wing jib & mizzen drifter.
1150 Double Is. ab’m stbd.
1155 Down mizzen drifter. Wind NNW, increasing.
1235 Paagwnene Pt. ab’m port. SMG = 3.1
1310 Wind still backing – now NW.
1320 Backing to SSW
1350 Tangadio Is. buoy ab’m stbd. Engine on. Down jib.
1415 Tangadio Is. bn ab’m port, begin approach to Komak.
1455 Anchored in 15’, Koumac. Wind S very light.
1500 Engine secured.
26 Oct. – Sun.
0720 Prepare to get u/w. Lube steering, up Aries rudder.
0745 Weird white sacs clinging to anchor chain, very sticky & slimy. Jellyfish? Fish eggs?
0755 Anchor up; u/w. Light SSE headwind, motor between reefs.
0815 Pandop Pt. ab’m port. o/c 126ºM.
0843 Infernet Rf. bn ab’m stbd.
0915 Red buoy ab’m stbd. o/c 146ºM. SMG = 5.0
0943 Red bn ab’m stbd. o/c 153ºM.
1025 Cape Deverd ab’m port.
1040 Cape Deverd Rf. bn ab’m port, o/c 138ºM
1050 Wind shift to S, up Maui jib.
1055 Eng. secured.
1100 Up mizzen.
1125 Fish aboard with trolling line.
1200 Mid-lagoon Rf. ab’m port, o/c 130ºM
1255 Unda Bay Rf. bn ab’m port.
1340 Down mizzen; begin approach to Massacre Flat Channel
1410 Massacre Flat bn ab’m port.
1425 Mid Channel bn ab’m stbd.
1440 Eng. on – u/w motoring across Chasseloup Bay to anchorage. Wind down to 2-3 kts.
1505 Jib down.
1540 Anchored in 18’, Chasseloup bay.
1545 Eng. secured.
27 Oct. – Mon.
0730 Into town of Voh to P.O. & store. Ride with Madame Rolly – store owner’s wife. Nice visit with Ray Rolly, who’s parents, from Vanuatu, settled in Voh in the 1800’s. Bought a loaf of bread at his store, and he gave me lemons, papayas & grapefruit from his garden. Invited him to see Rhysling later today…
1700 Visit by Ray Rolly who also brought 5 heads of lettuce, some tomatoes & a cantelope all from his garden! A very kind man.
28 Oct. – Tues.
0545 Prepare to get u/w.
0600 Engine on.
0615 u/w from Chasseloup Bay (lots of mud on chain & anchor!)
0620 Up Maui jib; motorsail to pass.
0632 Guillian Pen. Rf. buoy ab’m port, o/c 204ºM.
0655 Bn ab’m port; enter Duroc Passage.
0730 NW tip Kone Rf. ab’m port; o/c 132ºM
0735 Up mizzen. Wind ENE 8-10, terriffic!
0740 Eng. secured.
0800 Wind backing to NE! Wonderful, but dropping to 4-6 kts.
0820 Calm - L
0830 Slight breeze from ESE. Closehauled o/c 140ºM
0835 Wind back to E, o/c 132ºM. Very light & variable.
0850 Calm – glassy – engine on, motor.
0910 Kone Pass ab’m port.
0945 Very lt. breeze from S., up Maui jib; motorsail a while to see if it holds.
1020 Up main. Breeze increasing 6-10. Lovely beam reach.
1100 Wind increasing 14-18.
1255 Port Mueo Ent. bn ab’m port. o/c 120ºM
1520 Blo[w]s on port bow – poss. sperm whales.
1529 Encore on port beam – one animal(?)
1645 Winds abating – it’s been a great afternoon of sailing – beam reach in 10-18 kt. winds.
1700 Down mizzen.
1730 Wind dying 4-8
1740 Sperm whale stbd. side – 100 yds!
Positive ID. Matching our course but slower.
1945 Very black night. Whale(s) breathing off stbd. beam.
2000 Sound like he’s getting closer – now off stbd. qtr.
2009 More breathing. Perhaps feeding(?). Lots of luminescence in water.
2300 Down main – excessive slatting. Just a breath of wind from WNW (dead astern).
29 Oct. – Wed.
0500 Continued calm. Down jib – eng. check.
0505 Eng. on. Motor in calm toward pass.
0610 Large wreck on reef ab’m port. o/c 120ºM
0840 Large animals – poss. pseudorcas(?) port & stbd. – feeding(?)
0846 Passe de Vincent ab’m port – rain.
0940 Tetembia wreck ab’m port. ETA pass: 1110
0950 Light S breeze; up Maui jib; motorsail.
1100 Down jib for visibility thru pass.
1105 Transit Uitoe Pass. Lighted orange & black beacon now marks mid channel shoal. o/c 098ºM
1110 Up jib – cont. motorsailing – very light S wind.
1130 Up main – wind S 8-10!
1140 Secure engine.
1215 Mba Is. ab’m stbd. – o/c 096ºM
1320 Faui bn ab’m stbd. – o/c 101ºM
1340 Reefed mizzen set for riding sail.
1435 Enter Old Noumea Harbor.
1440 Eng. on.
1445 Down main & jib, ready anchor, u/w to anchorage.
1505 Anchored in 20’ water in Bai de Moselle, Noumea. Circumnavigation of New Caledonia completed.
1510 Eng. secured.
30 Oct. – Thurs.
0630 General cleanup.
0800 - Ashore for gen. errands including application for visa at Australian Consulate.
1100 Australian Consulate says no visa required for owner of yacht. Asked 2 people to make sure.
“Picnic” at Place de Cocotiers – mail call!
p.m. Neil & Shirley from “Lady Oz” aboard – just arrived & cleared from Vanuatu. Rudy & Mary of “Elua” also aboard. Wine & yarns….
31 Oct. – Fri.
0700 Shopping
0830 Visit with Ridy & Mary on “Elua”; breakfast.
1030 Bake cake for belated b-day for Vanessa on “Lady Oz”
p.m. Dinner & visit with Mansfields on “Lady Oz”.
1 Nov. – Sat.
a.m. Correspondence. Change galley water filter.
Noon Visit to Da & Hannah on “Slow Dancer” at marina. Will meet again when Ben returns from Tahiti.
Strong SE’s all day – 25-30+!
2 Nov. – Sun.
Correspondence.
Visit to Botanical Gardens & Zoo
3 Nov. – Mon.
Begin C.W.[7] article.
Dinner with Bob & Jean of “Salacia”, S.F.
4 Nov. – Tues.
Visit with Edouard Thini family.
5 Nov. – Wed.
Type C.W. article.
6 Nov. – Thurs.
0635 Eng. check.
0640 Eng. on
0650 Anchor up; u/w from B. d. l. Moselle.
0715 Anchored in 25’ near breakwater at Baie de L’Orphelinat. Had to move due to “Army Day” in B. d. l. Moselle.
0725 Eng. secured.
Continue assembling C.W. article & prepare to poste.
7 Nov. – Fri.
Begin work on Islands article.
Errands.
8 Nov. – Sat.
Cont. Islands article. To town for “Army Day”
9 Nov – Mon.
0700 Prepare to get u/w.
0715 u/w from Baie de L’Orphelinat anc.
0735 Anchored 10’ Baie de la Moselle.
0800 Laundy day!
11 Nov. – Tues.
Rainy, drizzly day. Correspondence. Letter to Alan Lucas on corr. to book.
12 Nov. – Wed.
0800 Clear Customs, Imm., etc. All port fees paid (3,125 CPF). P.O. & provisions. Visit by Edward’s bro. & friends. Xfer remaining fuel to main tank. Total on hand = 35 gal. (1/2 tank). Change galley H2O filter.
1720 Wx shows poss. change with low moving E of Australia.
13 Nov. – Thurs.
1100 Definite ex disturbance to west. Will wait for more favorable conditions. Very calm; light SW winds.
1720 Wx shows low continuing to develop near Aust. E coast. Poss conv. approaching.
1900 Black sky, lightening and rain.
2030 Continued heavy rain – lt. wind SSE-to-South.
14 Nov. – Fri.
0530 Rain thru most of the night. Calm now, but press. continues falling (1007mb now).
1030 Up main mast to check all fittings & locate poss. chafe area on jib halyard.
1100 Wx shows weak low approaching from Aust. E coast; cold front and convergence. Hot, humid, lt. variable winds – SW to S here. So will stay put ‘til something looks more favorable.
1430 To Customs, Imm., & Port Capt. to extend stay to Sun[day]. Due to passing depression. Will see what develops over weekend…
15 Nov. – Sat.
0515-
1000 Glassy calm, overcast, humid.
1030 Wind increase in past 20 min. from 0 to 25 kts. out of the west. Anchorage a bit animated. May possibly move if it continues, but it may just be what’s in front of some rain.
1130 Wind abating. Visit by Tom of “Princess” for latest wx.
1230 Heavy rain, wind down to 10 kts.
1600 Clearing; wind veering to WNW.
16 Nov. – Sun.
0830 Breeze from WNW. Clear skies, rising press.
Begin preps for getting u/w. Will take 1100 wx & make final decision to leave today or tomorrow. “Princess” departs, also goodbyes to Neil & family as “Lady Oz” will leave today.
Change propane tank. Empty cyl. stowed portside fwd. Fill kerosene “tank”. Scrub dinghy. Re-secure stanchion & stern anchor bracket. Stow misc. gear in lazarette.
1100 Wx shows double low passing S, SW of N.C. Strong high at N.Z. may give us SE winds for awhile, but not true trades. Another low over central Australia. Winds now are right on the nose at 235ºM. Probably should veer by tomorrow. Will definitely depart first thing tomorrow morning.
17 Nov. – Mon.
0600 Prepare to get u/w
Last shopping, P.O., repair split seam in stbd. qtr. of Avon!
1100 Wx shows cont. westerlies!
1700 Wx should improve by tomorrow.
Big dinner with “Princess” rafted alongside. Frank & Tom of “Princess” & Joy & David of “Starlite” and visitor Charlie for spaghetti.
18 Nov. – Tues.
0700 At last, SSE winds – a breeze at least. Prepare to get u/w
0800 Eng. checks.
0830 Anchor up; u/w from Baie de la Moselle.
0846 Petite Pass buoy ab'm port; o/c 240 toward Dumbea Pass.
1017 Reef Laregnere buoy ab’m port. o/c 210ºM. “Princess” 200 yds. ahead on same course to Dumbea Pass.
1055 Transit Dumbea Pass with “Princess”. Spinners[8] escorting. Roller coaster exit!
1115 Up Maui jib, mizzen & main. SSW wind – o/c 235ºM. Breeze 8-10, speed 3.5
1125 Eng. secured – (842.66)
1135 Final farewells to Tom & Frank on “Princess”, Ch. 70.
1330 Field day dry goods locker. Discharge some spoiled goods.
1430 Continuing o/c 235ºM. Closehauled approx. 4.0 kts. Decent sailing in a 14-16 kt. wind.
1620 Wx shows we should continue to have moderate S winds.
1830 Wind abating. Lovely sunset sailing…. if it could only be like this all the way to Brisbane!…
1930 Poss. vessel sighted broad on stbd. bow – white light on horizon.
2100 Windshift to SSE. Continue o/c 235ºM. Full moon, flat seas, light, favorable breeze – wonderful sailing!
2200 Wind decreasing to 4-8 kts. SE.
2310 Nearly calm - L
2330 Breeze up & down – 2 to 8 kts.
19 Nov. – Wed.
0100 Wind 6-8 SE. Down mizzen & adjust main & jib to reduce wx helm.
0440 Star/moon fix: 22º 52.7S – 165º 16.4E
0510 Sunrise.
1000 DR: 22º 58.7S – 165º 00.4E. LOP ¤[9] Zn[10] 086.5; T[11] - 7.5[NM]
1100 Wx shows low approaching far to S so we may get spinoff in the form of N or NE winds as it passes. Barometer still low at 1008mb, but isobars are far spaced giving us very light winds & clear skies. Slow sailing, but pleasant & although the sails slat a bit Rhysling has enough steerageway to hold course with the Aries. Probably making about 2 kts…
1200 Posit: 22º 50.5S – 165º 03.5E. SMG since Dumbea = 2.9
1610 Wind shift to ENE, jibe jib. Will jibe main after wx broadcast…
1630 Belay the last…accidental jibe; back o/c 235ºM, port tack.
2000 Continued light ESE breeze. o/c 220ºM.
20 Nov. – Thurs.
0030 Light SE to ESE breeze moving Rhysling along comfortably at about 3 kts. Pleasant sailing on a relatively flat sea.
0215 Calm.
0345 Windshift to NNW; jibe. Very light – 2-4 kts.
0430 Star fix: 23º 02.3S – 164º 39.7E. SMG since noon yesterday: 1.5
0500 2 or 3 dolphins pass close to stbd. for brief look at Rhysling – then away. No ID.
0800 Glassy calm, but an imperceptible breath of air pushes Rhysling along at perhaps ½ kt. Lots of jellyfish, men ‘o war, fish eggs & dust on surface. 2 pilot fish & a school of about 20 small fish cruising along in our shadow, same course.
Amazingly Rhysling is holding course 235ºM.
1000 Wind gradually increasing from NW, 8-10.
1100 Wx shows wind should gradually back to NW then W, but not too strong…
1200 Fix: 23º 11.6S – 164º 22.0E (R[12] fix with noon lat.)
Noon to noon: 43.8 NM, SMG = 1.8 L …
1300-
1430 Field day second half of dry goods locker; re-organize. Clean cockpit & cushions.
1720 Noticeable change in rhythm of sea. Winds still light, but confused swell. Sky very clear, but a change must be in store…
1600 wx shows wind definitely should back as low passes south of us…
1830 Change galley foot pump H2O filter.
2230 Continued weird seas (confused), but delightful sailing off the wind – 10-14 kt. breeze. Moon up with clear sky all around. So far, so good…
21 Nov. – Fri.
0030 Lotion treatment for heat rash.
0100 Swell building from NE. Winds increasing – also NE. Grand sailing! Winds 14-18. Broad reach/run.
0400 Continued lovely sailing off the wind. Seas lumpy; some clouds.
0445 Star Fix: 23º 29.3S – 163º 29.9E. From noon yesterday: CMG = 236ºM, SMG = 3.5.
0730 Down main – very dark, rain-laden clouds ahead. Poss. stronger winds. Maui jib only now – wind 14-18.
0800 Entering rain. Very dark ahead & cannot see under it so don’t know how far it extends. Reef in mizzen & ready to set in case we have to heave to, but winds seem to be remaining steady, even lessening a bit… 14-18 kts.
0805 Wind increase to 20-25 kts.
Shower on deck.
0830 Rain passed. Wind shift to SW. o/c 200ºM
0905 No wind; confused, mushy seas. Horrible rolling. Some light drizzle. Rain showers all around horizon.
1000 Continued calm with maddening, confused seas. Rain, rain, rain! Down jib to stop slatting & jerking of rig. Crazy rolling. Tempted to motor awhile, but will wait ‘til after the wx broadcast at 1100. If no wind by noon I’ll charge the batts. & motor for an hour or so.
1355 Up mizzen to try dampening rolling (little effect)
1400 Eng. on; motor & chg. batts.
1530 Eng. secured, batts. charged. Resume drift & roll mode (no wind – poss. rain ahead…)
1600 DR: 23º 31.0S – 163º 11.8E
Wx shows we’re at the N end of a low, in some sort of convergence zone with approaching or passing cold front. No telling when or what kind of wind will come out of it. Patience is the answer…
1634 LOP ¤ = DR: 23º 32S – 163º 23E
1740 While preparing dinner a rain shower passed that dumped a lot of water. It drilled down for a solid 20 min. Other than the rolling it’s nice & comfortable on Rhysling. Damp, but bearable. Still absolutely no wind.
1900 Continue drift mode. Calm
2100 Calm.
2300 Calm.
22 Nov. – Sat.
0120 Very light breeze from SE. Down mizzen; up Maui jib.
0200 Up main. Aries is able to hold course even though it’s a very light wind. We’re probably making about 1 to 1.5 kts. Seas relatively calm, lots of dark clouds all around.
0230 Calm, breeze, calm, breeze.
0300 Calm.
0500 Calm.
0515 Down jib; main slatting, but left up to dampen rolling. Glassy calm, dark horizon all around.
0630 Breeze from E; up Maui jib. o/c 225ºM, 2-3 kts!
Wind poss. in front of dark clouds moving up from astern…
0745 Wind increasing slightly E to ENE. Pleasant sailing off the wind. Still dark clouds astern…
0845 Rain catching up to us from astern. Wind backing slightly, will jibe if it continues doing so.
0905 Jibe due to backing wind. Light, passing showers. o/c 250ºM, 4 kts. Delightful sailing, but don’t know how long it’ll last. Very dark rain clouds on port bow, but think we’ll miss them. Generally cloudy, but getting thinner; rising barometer…there’s hope!
1010 Wind dropping…4-6 kts.
1001 DR: 23º 37S – 163º 11E
1030 Wx shows tropical cyclone forming NE of Vanuatu moving SSW at 5 kts. Force 6 winds. Our present course (W) puts us in the safe semicircle should it continue out way…
1150 WWV[13] reports tropical depression at 14ºS 169ºE moving SW @ 10 kts. Max winds 35 kts. at ctr.
1315 Continuing light NE wind. 4-6. Sky clearing, somewhat.
1400 Sun line: Zn = 270.5 A 28.0
1545 Only a breath from NE. Bare steerageway. Dark horizon ahead. Sails slatting and filling.
1630 No mention of tropical cyclone by N.Z. ex, although there is a low shown, still being announced on WWV, however.
Calm here with little sign of wind. Possibly more rain.
1730 Continued calm, sails slatting but not too much rolling. Drifting WNW.
1730 Sky is black with rain to the W. It’s a few miles away yet but approaching slowly. Don’t know if it contains wind, but doubtful…
1820 Wind shift with very lt. breeze from SE!
1845 Jibe. o/c 260ºM to make more westing. Heading for a curtain of black ahead, but at least there’s a breeze & the sails are only occasionally flogging…
1855 Moving nicely now @ 4-4.5 kts.
1910 Dead calm with lump, quickly built up seas.
1920 Rain passing, wind up from SE.
1925 Wind to 20 kts, SE. Down main & furl.
2000 o/c 235ºM, Maui jib only. Moving well at about 4 kts.
2010 Lite off SatNav. No good posit. for 1½ days…
2050 WWV reports tropical depression at 14ºS 168ºE
2124 Satfix: 23º 38.7S – 163º24.2E
2240 DR: 23º 40.4S – 163º 19.5E. Skies clearing. Secure SatNav.
Mellow sailing at about 4 kts. o/c 240ºM
23 Nov. – Sun.
0100 Continued easy sailing @ 4 kts. with Maui jib only
0230 Sky clearing.
0400 Winds increasing slightly, 14-16.
0410 DR: 23º 49.5S – 162º 55.1E
0434 Star fix: 23º 42.9S – 163º 09.1E
0600 Wind increasing 18-24. S to SSE.
WWV reports tropical depression now at 12ºS – 168ºE moving SW slowly. Max winds – 35 kts.
0654 Sun/moon fix: 23º 47.5S – 162º 52.9E. SMG = 3.2
0900 Lube steering & Aries. Winds from S to SSE 15-20. Sailing well with Maui jib only. 4-4.5 kts. beam reach.
1050 WWV reports tropical depression at 12ºS – 167ºE moving west @ 5 kts. Max winds 35 kts.
1100 Wx shows trop. cyclone at 12ºS – 169ºE (position doubtful). All indications show we will probably get some more variable winds as we progress further westward. We’re between 2 lows (N & S) and both edges are 1012mb. Hopefully we’ll get salvation from a high(?) developing over S. central Australia…we’ll see…
1155 Noon lat: 23º 59.1S
1400 Wind abating slightly 12-16 kts.
1600 Wx shows we’re at E side of high forming over Australia. Winds should be from SSE and moderate to strong. Great news!
1635 LOP ¤ shows SMG = 3.8.
1800 Change galley H2O filter. Equalize P&S fresh water tanks.
1915 Continuing with 18-24 kt. wind just abaft port beam. Really flying along – probably 5 kts.
2100 Winds abating, but still sailing well.
2300 Continuing o/c 240ºM. 4 kts.
24 Nov. – Mon.
0100 Winds 12-14, sailing with Maui jib only o/c 240ºM 3.5-4 kts.
0445 Morning star fix: 24º 24.2S – 161º 24.6E
SMG past 24 hrs = 4.4 kts.
0803 Sun/moon fix: 24º 29.6S – 161º 09.9E. SMG = 4.4.
0850 WWV reports tropical cyclone at 14ºS – 169ºE moving SSE @ 5 kts., max winds 40kts.
0930 Winds remaining steady from SSE @ 12-16. Up single reefed main.
1050 WWV reports tropical cyclone at 15ºS – 169ºE moving SE @ 5 kts. Max winds 55 kts, radius gale winds 60 NM.
1200 DR (with noon lat.): 24º 40.6S – 160º 53.0E.
1215 Down main to reduce ex helm. It’s a bit slower with only the jib, but we hold course better…
1730 Terrific sailing all day. Very pleasant. Probably making 4-4.5 kts. Wx shows we’re definitely in for S to SE winds for a while (hopefully all the rest of the way!). The Cyclone is building, but appears to be moving SE now. Winds are in the 50+ kt. range. Glad we’re not in Vanuatu!
Have fallen off a bit as with present speed it’ll put us over Copel Bank just past midnite. There’s a least depth of 33’, but since it’ll no doubt cause waves I’ll try to avoid it.
1930 Moving right along! Great sailing – fast & comfortable!
2150 SatNav on for finer positioning as we near Capel Bank.
2200 Contact on port bow.
2205 Contact on recip. course, passing port-to-port, 2-4 miles. Monitoring Ch. 16.
2220 Rig & deploy trolling gen.
2246 Satfix: 24º 54.6S – 159º 50.8E
2330 Wind down to 10-14 kts.
25 Nov. – Tues.
0030 Continued light wind 10-14 kts. o/c 240ºM.
0200 Transit Capel Bank – N end – Fathometer shows depth of 220 ft. (36 fm[14]). No waves but seas seem a bit confused. Light winds.
0415 “No bottom” on fathometer
0448 Satfix: 25º 00.5S – 159º 20.8E
Past 24 hrs – 118.8 NM = 5.0 kts. SMG
0600 Winds remaining light 10-12 out of the SE. o/c 240ºM
0650 WWV reports tropical cyclone “Orphia”(?) at 17ºS – 172ºE moving SE @ 10 kts. Max winds to 70 kts. Radius gale winds – 80 NM.
0735 SatNav secured
0745 Secure trolling generator. Wind increasing slightly – 10-14.
0950 Up single reefed main. Wind shift to SSE, 10-12 kts.
1100 Wx shows center of a high moving to meet us which may explain the light winds & fine wx. Could get lighter or even calm if we move into the center. Cyclone now between Fiji & Vanuatu…
1130 Shake out reef in main due to light, beam wind.
1145 Nearly calm.
1205 Wind returning! 1200 DR: 25º 07.5S – 158º 55.5E
1245 Glorious sailing! – Beam reach, flat seas – 14-16 kt. wind. Clear blue sky 100%
1615 Wind increase with passing squalls – 20-30 kts.
1630 Down main due to stronger winds – 20-25. Seas building slightly.
Wx shows we’re at the NE side of a beautiful high which is moving E. Should have favorable winds the rest of the way, gradually shifting S – SE – ESE – E. We’re flying along with Maui jib only now. Beam reach with SSE wind. It’s so wonderful to be sailing off the wind! Cyclone is still between Vanuatu & Fiji, heading toward SW Viti Levu. Hope it dies before striking…
1643 ¤ LOP – Zn 258.6 T 18.4 – SMG = 5.0 kts.
DR: 25º 17S – 158º 20E
1915 Wind abating a bit, (14-16) but we’re still moving well with just Maui jib. Air is getting cooler now; and there’s a look about the sea & sky that says we’re out of the tropics* now & heading into a more temperate climate. *(Like old George on “Amorena” said: “You know you’re out of the tropics when the butter gets hard & the toilet seat is cold…”)
2000 o/c 240ºM – 4 kts.
2100 Continued good sailing – 4 kts.
26 Nov. – Wed.
0100 Wind down a bit, but still moving nicely – 3.5-4 kts.
0400 Wind shift to ESE. Trim jib accordingly.
0453 Fix (star/moon): 25º 41.9S – 157º 22.5E
Past 24 hrs. run: 115.2 NM = 4.8kts.
0700 Wind light (6-8 from ESE. Swell overpowering the light breeze so jib doesn’t stay filled and we roll a lot; not uncomfortable, but I worry about the jib snapping so much on the forestay. Sure am glad it’s toggled… Barometer up to 1017mb indicates we’re at the top of the easterly moving high. Winds should continue backing to E, ENE, etc.
0900 Continued light breeze from ESE. Just enough to give us steerageway.
1040 Lube steering & Aries
1100 Wx shows we’re nearly in the center of the high which has moved north a bit. If & when winds come up, I expect they should be out of the ENE or NE… The tropical cyclone was not shown so perhaps it died…
1200 DR: 25º 51.7S – 157º 02.0E
1350 Replace port jib sheet with shorter but stronger line until it can be replaced in Australia.
1405 Wind shift to SSW!? 6-8 kt. breeze coming up. Up main. Can’t figure why, but it’s nice to be moving rather than crawling & slatting!
1500 Nearly calm again, but what breeze there is comes from SE again…
1634 ¤ LOP – Zn 260.3 A 3.2. SMG since 0800 – 2.2 kts. L
1700 Wind (breeze) shifting to NE…
1715 Give – o/c 245ºM. Wind increasing from NE – 15 kts.
1740 Large vessel, hull down, broad on port bow. Poss. outbound from Australia. Recip. course.
1800 Spoke with chief mate N Jemz Ch. 70 aboard “Act 9”, Hamburg, Germany, bound for Lautoka from Brisbane. Containership ties up at Fisherman Is. wharf, Brisbane & will return in Jan. Says wx has been mild out of Brisbane since they departed yesterday midnight.
1915 Wind down again – 6-8 kts., NE.
1940 Slight increase: 8-10 – NE.
2130 Continued light breeze from NE. Black night with heat(?) lightening past horizon ahead. Followed by splashing, breathing dolphins, 6, 8, 10?…
2230 Breeze picking up. Moving along at 3-4 kts. Dolphins still following…
2350 Surrounded by escorting dolphins – 6 or 8 riding bow wave while others follow along both sides, qtrs., and astern. Luminescent trails and echo-location sounds. Nice breeze pushing us along, but very calm sea.
27 Nov. – Thurs.
0005 Happy Thanksgiving! Dolphins continue escorting Rhysling…
0015 Wind shift to the NW… trim accordingly.
0040 Wind backing to W, but dying… Nearly calm.
0120 W breeze for a short while; tried tacking, and then it stopped altogether. Dead, glassy calm. Down jib.
0220 Wind from NNW, up mizzen. u/w o/c 240ºM.
0230 Wind is up to 16-18 kts., now from the NW. We’re moving along at a good clip – 4.5-5 kts. Just hope it doesn’t come up too much. But the seas are flat so although we’re close-hauled it’s not uncomfortable. Clouds ahead and lots of lightening flashes over the horizon. Must be heat lightening over the land as I know we’re still in a high so can’t be any kind of storm.
0400 Just flying along – probably 5+ kts! Great sailing.
0550 16-18 dolphins riding bow wave & beam waves. Pos. ID: Delphinus delphis (Saddleback or common dolphin). No juveniles present.
0503 Star Fix: 25º 50.5S – 155º 48.3E
Past 24 hrs. – 85.7NM = SMG: 3.5 kts.
0600 Winds up & down – calm to 14 kts; averaging 4-6 kts.
0700 Nearly calm; slight breeze.
0730 Enough breeze to hold course 230ºM
1030 Breeze gradually increasing to 8-10 NW.
1145 SatNav on.
1200-
1100 Retard ship’s clocks one hour to conform with –10 time zone.
1115 Rig & deploy trolling generator.
1200 Moving along well – beam reach o/c 230ºM, 4-4.5 kts., NW wind 10-12
1218 Satfix: 26º 18.4S – 155º 12.3E
1345 Wind backing to WNW. 10-12.
1620 Wind 20+ NW – really moving along now! Keeping high at 250º-260ºM in case we’re headed[15]. Trying to cook a Thanksgiving dinner of Spam & egg & potato (pie?) to use up fresh goods & celebrate a bit, but it’s a pain.
Listening to Brisbane Radio reporting thunder showers, hail & strong winds in Moreton Bay. Hopefully it’ll be past before we arrive, but may meet up with it tonight. ETA at present speed: 0530 tomorrow… we’ll see…
1730 Very dark front to WSW.
1740 Down main, up mizzen, down jib. Change to high wind jib. Double reef in main. Up h.w. jib/doub. reefed main. Down mizzen, single reef in mizzen in case necessary to heave to. Wind 2-25 kts. Seas not bad.
1840 o/c 240º-250º moving fast 5 kts.(?) with just h.w. jib & d[ouble] rf’d main… sky black ahead with lots of red lightening flashes.
1915 We’re really flying! The seas are building from the north (stbd. beam). Winds 25-30, some big rolls now & then. Lots of lightening ahead. Keeping a more westerly course to allow for leeway & known N-S current. If it increases much more will secure d[ouble] rf’d main. But for now I know it helps dampen the rolling.
Happy Thanksgiving! Nice to hear the Aussie radio – especially the wx reports!…
2000 Rain, but drops, but not heavy, yet… Black as coal outside except blue-white lightning flashes.
2120 Winds abating – down to 20-25 kts. Rolling on “leftover” seas…
2155 Nearly calm. Drizzle, overcast. Rolling, slatting.
2348 Satfix: 26º 48.9S – 154º 25.0E
2345 Dead calm! Sails slatting. A bare breeze from SE. Down h.w. jib, all unhanked & bagged. Ready to put up working jib; then a blaster comes out of SE with cold rain (melted hail?). So, back up goes the h.w. jib…
28 Nov. – Fri.
0015 Flying along with h.w. jib & double reefed main. o/c 250ºM with SE wind 15-20 kts.
0045 Wind down to 12-14. Some slatting of main. Will hold this arrangement ‘till I see what develops. Lots of dark clouds around and the lightning seems to be getting closer!
0200 Sky looking clear all around with lightning moving off to the NE. Very light E breeze. Down h.w. jib, change to Maui jib.
0210 Wind increasing a bit, still SE. Moving well – 2.5-4 kts. Some clouds forming to the S & SW… gosh, the weather has been changing very quickly in the past 12 hours.
0225 Wind up to 18-20 kts.
0235 Wind 30-35…
0250 SE 25-30 kt. wind with 25 kt. gusts. Thank goodness we’re off the wind a bit & not beating. We’re really flying, probably doing around 6 kts. Sky is relatively clear with some passing clouds so this may carry us all the way in. The trolling gen. is really pumping in the amps – averaging about 7A with bursts of 10A!
0356 Satfix: 26º 57.4S – 154º 11.6E
0405 Contact on port beam – lg. vessel, hull down on similar course, probably headed for Brisbane, too.
0500 Wind SE 25-30 kts. We’re really moving along on a beam/broad reach. Some real rollers give Rhysling a toss now and then.
0700 Trolling gen. secured.
0750 Australian coastline in sight one point on port bow. Poss. Moreton Is. (Cape Moreton).
0805 Up reefed mizzen to point higher. Maui jib is a bit big for this wind, but as close as we are I’ll pass on changing it ‘til in the lee of the cape.
0830 The gods made that decision. Jib blew out 6’ up bottom of luff. Change to h.w. jib. Winds steady 35 kts. Seas 10-12’
1012 Cape Moreton ab’m port.
1100 Down main, prepare anchor.
1150 Anchored in 25’ water at Freeman Channel, N. Moreton Is. awaiting flood tide. Winds have been blasting – sustained 40 kts. with some 50 kt. gusts. Didn’t want to tackle the channel against both wind & tide. If the tide helps me enough against the wind I’ll go for it. Otherwise if too much strain on the engine I’ll return here & anchor ‘til more favorable conditions come about.
1300 Eng. on, up anchor
1310 Secure engine. Re-anchor. Winds blasting – 30-35. Another boat just left ahead of me & now are returning – it looked awfully rough out in the channel. The bay is white with foam and there are lots of ominous clouds heading this way. Will remain here ‘til tomorrow.
29 Nov. – Sat.
0600 Awaiting flood tide which should be around 1300. Wx reports say there may be strong winds later today & a fair chop in the bay. Unless it looks really bad, I’ll give it a try with the option of being able to return here for protection. The other boat (along with another which arrived here late yesterday – both French who I saw in Noumea) left early this morning on the flood. Kind of wish I’d done the same, but it’s too late now…
0800 Wind up from NE, opposing ebb tide built up a 1 foot chop in no time.
0830 u/w. Moving slowly against the tide.
0920 Anchored in 20’ on WNW side of Moreton Is. awaiting flood tide. SMG 2.5 kts. SE wind now blocked by the island. It would be a waste of diesel & a long time to motor and sailing would be even slower (maybe even backwards!) so I’ll be patient.
Just heard my astrology forecast for today on the radio: “Taurus – a short journey will be required today which will lead you into panic. Calm down and take it as it comes.”…
1230 Eng. check. Looks like slack water. Rain shower, with reduced vis. but no wind. Prepare to get u/w. Dolphins cruising past stbd. side – “Saying all is well, time to go into the bay…”
1240 Engine on, up anchor.
1245 u/e, to Brisbane River. Overcast & rain ahead.
1335 BYB[16] buoy ab’m stbd. Tide appears to be still ebbing here. Rain.
1430 Wind SE 8-10; rain. Engine secured. Up working jib & mizzen.
1440 Up main.
1445 Light headwind – eng. on; motorsail to windward.
1455 Wind shift to SE & increasing to 15-18 kts.
Secure engine. Down mizzen to reduce wx helm. Miserable rain, but lots of wind.
1515 Wind 20+ - really flying with flooding tide. Very poor vis., buoy to buoy navigation.
1600 Enter Brisbane approach channel.
1630 Enter Brisbane River.
1645 Contact Lytton Signal Station – re. Customs, etc. Directed to tie up at Quarantine jetty.
1730 Moored stbd. side to Quarantine jetty.
1745 Secure eng. Top off all water tanks & jugs.
1935 Health officials aboard.
2130 Pratique granted; Customs aboard.
2140 Yacht Merriman alongside portside. Bruce & Pam.
2155 Customs officers aboard; all cleared.
30 Nov. – Sun.
0545 Steady rain all night.
0625 Engine on.
0635 u/w from Quarantine jetty to Town Reach.
0830 Anchored upstream of moorings at Botanical Gardens. Aboard “Merriman” to help Bruce & Pam tie up at moorings.
0910 u/w with Bruce & Pam to help tie Rhysling at pilings.
0935 Moored for & aft at Town Reach moorings #14. Rain.
1 Dec. – Mon.
To town on general errands; Apply for cruising permit (6 mo.); check with Marine Dept. about mooring, Bank, P.O., etc. Visit Clive. Rain.
2 Dec. – Tues.
Contact with Dick in Perth. More errands, etc. Rain.
3 Dec. – Wed.
Write out Christmas Aerogram & take to printer. General cleanup, stow sails, sail covers on (now that the rain finally stopped), rig awning, etc.
4 Dec. – Thurs.
Writing.
5 Dec. – Fri.
Check out wholesalers for brushes & handles.
6 Dec. – Sat.
Construct “prototype” chain scrubber. Evening BBQ with yachties at “Gardens”.
7 Dec. – Sun. * Pearl Harbor Day …*
Draw up graphics for “rode scrubber”. Correspondence.
1210 Engine check & run 1 hr. to chg. batts. & exercise.
1310 Eng. secured.
8 Dec. – Mon.
To brush mfrs. on prices etc.
9 Dec. – Tues.
To lumber & hardware shops.
10 Dec. – Wed.
Make 2nd prototype. Purchase brushes (100) at Vindex Co.
11 Dec. – Thurs.
Build jig for scrubber.
13 Dec. – Sat.
To woodworking shed to cut, drill scrubbers. Assemble at Clive’s
15 Dec. – Mon.
Assemble 12 scrubbers aboard & begin selling. 3 sold.
16 Dec. – Tues.
Varnish blocks on scrubbers to prevent swelling.
17 Dec. – Wed.
Exercise engine. General errands.
19 Dec. – Fri.
With Bruce & Pam of “Merriman” to Gold Coast.
20 Dec. – Sat.
With Starkeys to Sunshine Coast. Word from Mel about Mate position open at Kwaj.
21 Dec. – Sun.
Call to Mel on Kwaj. Will take position if I can get it.
22 Dec. – Mon.
To Monty’s Marina, Cabooture, to check out storage for Rhysling. Dinner with Plaisteds in Glenmore.
25 Dec. – Thurs.
Christmas with Starkeys. Call from Global, Oakland, confirming they will hire me upon arrival & physical in Calif. Will lay up Rhysling and should be there by late Jan.
27 Dec. – Sat.
Wash day. Tighten & check all fasteners in steering gear. Prepare Maui jib for repair. Oil hanks on working jib. To races with Damien.
29 Dec. – Mon.
Arrangements made with Australian Customs for storing Rhysling & leaving country.
31 Dec. – Wed.
To Clive’s for New Years Eve.
1 Jan. [1987]- Thurs.
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
2 Jan. – Fri.
To Caboolture for final arrangements for haulout. Crane appointment for 6 Jan. 1400 (high tide).
3 Jan. – Sat.
0630 Prepare to get u/w. Mount bilge pump handle. Lube anchor windlass. Last check on “Merriman” for Bruce & Pam.
1030 Bernd, Eleanor & Mark aboard to help.
Scrub Puddle Shuttle & stow. Stow gear, etc.
1215 Eng. on.
1220 u/w from Brisbane Botanical Gardens down-river. Winds ENE. Motoring.
1545 Anchored in 15’, Bishop Is.
1610 Bernd & Eleanor ashore with his dinghy.
4 Jan. – Sun.
0600 Prepare to get u/w
0630 Eng. on.
0645 Anchor up, u/w out Brisbane entrance channel. Wind ENE 14-18.
0745 Up mizzen & working jib.
0755 Eng. off.
0930 Eng. on/motorsail/mag. course 330º
0944 Pass Otter Rk.
1023 Pass Garnet Rk.
1018 Pass North Reef
1215 Enter Cabooture River channel
1325 Moored stbd. side to fuel dock at Monty’s Marine Park, Beachmere.
5 Jan. – Mon.
0700 Bernd & Eleanor prepare Avon for trip back to Brisbane.
0900 All gear stowed; extra fuel, etc.
1000 Bernd & Eleanor depart aboard Avon “Dayspring I”
1020 Warm up engine for oil change…
Change oil & filter. Clean bilge.
Remove main & mizzen, fold & store.
Crane man down for estimate…$540.00 for one lift! Monty’s owners will try using travel lift.
6 Jan. – Tues.
Scrub & dry cockpit cushions. Dry working jib. Flush head with fresh water. Flush outboard with fresh water, drain tank.
1345 Eng. on.
1350 u/w to slipway.
1400 “Moored” in slipway cradle; prepare for haulout.
1630 Rhysling positioned at W side of yard for dry storage. Wooden cradle fabricated by yard personnel.
Haulout cost (including return) $88.00 ($2.00/ft.)
7 Jan. – Wed.
0600 Continue laying up Rhysling for storage
0730 Un-pin turnbuckles & “de-tune” rig.
(full turns)
Mainmast: fore stay - 4
port & stbd. lowers - 2
port & stbd. uppers - 4
port & stbd. backstay - 2
Mizzen: p&s lowers - 2
p&s intermed. - 1
p&s uppers - 4
0900 Notify Dept. of Health regarding bonded foods locker. Stow deck gear. Wash & scrub bottom. Stow gear in lazarette. Flush head with fresh H2O. Pay bill to marina covering haulout, cradle, hardstand & 3 mo. storage - $341.00(A)
8 Jan. – Thurs.
To town for tarp & leads (elec.). Check with battery supplier on plan for batts.
Disconnect all batts. Pack raw water impeller with grease. Flush head & add lubricant.
Top off main fuel tank with diesel & add 100ml of diesel additive. Aft tank empty.
Begin packing personal gear.
0600 Continue stowing gear. Fashion “siphon rags” for cockpit fwd. corners.
Close propane cylinder & disconnect.
Flush head after treating with SeaLube.
Seal engine air intake. Seal exhaust. Open injectors & squirt ½ oz. oil in each cylinder.
Leftover fresh goods to yacht “Charivari”. Goodbyes to Maurice & Evelyne & kids.
Rig tarp over house & bridge deck.
Show Gary all points to check during storage.
1500 “Ashore” to head, eventually, to Kwajalein.
Be back in a year!….
1245 (Arrival) AND here we are, back together again – Rhysling and I. Before I left, a year didn’t sound too bad, and now that I’m back, it seems to have passed fairly smoothly. But somewhere, halfway through it, I thought it would never end.
The year at Kwaj. was well worth it for what I saved ($22,000.00), and even with what I’ve spent for the tip back and the goodies for Rhysling, plus a computer and visiting friends and family in the U.S. I’m still coming out with about 18 thousand; hopefully that’ll give me the 3 years’ cruising I’m planning for…
It was with mixed emotions that I greeted Rhysling today. I wanted to cry and hug her, but she just stood unemotionally waiting – just as I’d left her over 1 year and 4 months ago.
She is a bit weatherbeaten, but with the tarp I put over her as well as all the preparations, I think she did well. A few loose ends and dirty spots topside, but no standing water – cockpit “siphons” did great! Surprised to see the SatNav antenna wire stripped from the mizzen shroud due to failure of all the plastic tie wraps. Some mildew inside, but not bad. Very little water in the bilge.
Everything inside absolutely untouched. As I left it – right down to the crescent wrenches still set for the propane line fittings. Besides hooking that up, I immediately opened hatches and ports for a good air-out. Also rigged the dodger so I can keep main hatch open even if it rains (there were dark clouds all around today).
Quite a lot of sand and dirt on deck; but not much bird shit (thank goodness). Did some cleanup and organizing, set up electric cord for light. Met “neighbors” on boats either side. Ray on MOANA II, San Diego on portside and Grant on a 38’ ferro[17] motorsailer to starboard.
The trip out here took some time. 14½ hours flight from L.A. to Sydney, then a 12 hour wait for the train which took another 16 hours to get to Brisbane. Took a local train from downtown to Caboolture and then a cab out to Monty’s. Thank goodness I made it with all the heavy luggage. Now I just have the box coming by surface freight to worry about.
Gary T. seemed glad to see me; guess I’ll meet the others after the weekend.
Nice to have cooler weather here now, but hope it doesn’t get too cold!
Still undergoing jet lag so hope to get a good rest tonight.
The wine I left isn’t yet vinegar, and although decidedly changed, it’s not all that bad!
Met a man at the Sydney train depot who is from Mauritius, and he gave me pertinent names and addresses.
Cooked an onion & tuna dinner tonight. Found a few bad cans, so will eventually have to check and inventory everything. It must have been an oven in here at times. Found melted hard candy and an imploded cooking oil bottle. Also some deteriorated rubbers & plastics and discolored plastics.
Hopefully I’ll get hold of a bicycle for future transport. Should spend the weekend continuing on the list of “tasks” to take care of before launching.
0500 Up early – probably due to jet lag. Started list of necessary jobs – pre & post launching. It seems like a lot of stuff, but if I concentrate on one item at a time, it should be taken care of in reasonable time.
After putting leather pads on the “boarding” ladder and fastening it to the cradle, I began with the first item: seacocks. Each was dismantled, cleaned, greased, & re-assembled. All except the head are in hard to reach places so it took nearly all day. The head discharge had a bent shaft so I tried heating it and straightening it in the vise, and managed to make it better. Afraid to apply too much force for fear of breaking it (bronze) though. May try to replace it if I can find one…
Also cleaned grease from the raw water cooling pump on engine, and organized some tools & equip. in the upper cabin.
Tried calling Bernd, but no phone #.
2000 Got ahold of Bernd.
0630 Up at a more normal hour. After washing dishes I did a big laundry using the 3 wash tubs, roller wringer, & big clothes line. Met “Sess”, a nice cruising lady from N. Qld.[18] Also saw Norm & Jim & Edna (saw Gary Sat.). Edna gave me messages & Atlas radio that Bob & Jean had left by way of Sally & Horst (“Sea Horst”) who I met yesterday. Message from Patty & P.J. on “Valera Linda” who are presently at Cabbage-Tree Creek.
0900 Hitched toward Caboolture intending to buy a secondhand bike. Got a ride from a guy who said he has a 10-speed I can borrow for a month or two. Ended up going to his place in Redcliff, meeting his wife, etc. Son is a W.S.[19] champ and presently a law student (placed in top 7 for W.S. Olympic trials!).
Nev(ill) Harrip has a 20’ trailer sailor[20] he just bought & took me to se it. Also owns a race horse.
I bought 2 tires & tubes to replace the ones on the bike. What extraordinary luck to not only find the bike, but more especially to meet these nice people.
I see it as an omen for such good fortune in the further adventures of “Rhysling”!
Just realized now (1900) that it’s my B-day…. Couldn’t have asked for a nicer one!
CMA[21] à CMA debits: 13 May – Sydney (train) – A$132.00
13 May – Sydney (cash adv.) A$300.00
[Total] A$432.00 = US$328.00
17 May- Tues.
0600 Up to clean up and finish cleaning up the bike. Lubed, replaced front tire, taped handlebars, etc. Went to Beachmere to P.O. and for fresh vegs. etc. A nice sleepy town. Very relaxed.
Spent all afternoon breaking down head &replacing appropriate parts, found a few bad ones I should send off for…
Will go into Brisbane tomorrow to meet Bernd and also see Customs & Clive.
18 May – Wed.
0830 Off to Brisbane via train. Met Bernd and then Clive. Checked in with Customs (shipping) and was surprised at reluctance to issue cruise permit to visit county after going to N. Caledonia. Even taking 2 months to get u/w sounded like a long time to them. Perhaps they’ve had hassles from other yacht people recently. They want us as “tourists” but not to work on our boats, outfit, refit, etc. At least N.Z. had a better attitude for my going there to refit.
No problem to leave sooner than planned. I’d only hoped to take care of a few extra things while here. guess I won’t spend as much here as first anticipated, so that’s good. Funny situation: They said “no problem” for me to go off and make a bundle of #, and now that I’m ready to spend it in their country they seem to want me to leave.
Had a nice visit with Bernd and it sounds like a good plan to visit Papua New Guinea for the cyclone season. So I’ll launch as soon as possible, sail north to Cairns, and then to PNG. Early next year I can head west via Darwin (hope they don’t mind a stop there…)
Stayed over at Bernd’s and returned to Caboolture Thurs. a.m.
19 May – Thurs.
1030 Back in Caboolture. Got battery charger (240V) then headed back to Monty’s
Finished rebuilding and re-installing head. Rebuilt manual bilge pump with new gaskets, etc.
0600 Very cold night (9ºC) but once sun is up not too bad. Cycle to Beachmere for bleach. Plumb siphon line to water tank manifold. Drain p&s tanks (100 gals. each). Refill. Talk with Karen who suggested using vinegar & bicarbonate of soda to clean tanks. She offered to pick some up for me. Bend on main & mizzen sails & furl & cover while waiting for water to drain. Nice to have them out of the way. Remove & re-caulk around plexiglass on fore hatch. Check with Jim about machining head thru-hull tapered pin and straightening threaded shaft. Also spoke with Gary about batteries.
Add bi-carb. soda vinegar to p&s tanks (250g+ per liter each tank) as per Karen’s instructions. Will let foam a few hours, then drain.
Check Aries bearings & lubricate. Heavy rain & thunder late afternoon. Good test for fore hatch which seems well sealed down.
0600 Another cold night. Windy today (SW 25 kts.). Drain p&s water tanks. Open center & fwd. tanks. Pretty dirty. Treat with vinegar & bicarb. soda, scrub, drain, reseal. A big, all day job, and I’m glad it’s over with. Mount fire extinguisher under salon table. After dinner met some “neighbors” around a bonfire. 2 couples building boats. Nice visit.
0600 Dismantle, caulk & re-secure plexiglass on main cabin hatch. Dismantle & clean plexiglass on lazarette hatch. Strip & sand. Apply 1st coat varnish on hatch.
Re-drill holes in transom to relocate Aries mounts to original position (6” lower). Remove mounts from present position. Former “tenants” of a wasp nest attached to one mount and making harassment dives while I’m working. Electra-clean handy as defense weapon! Drain some remaining water from p&s tanks using foot pump/gravity.
0600 Wash day. Fair, warm weather after morning cold. Check on launch date. Unable to go in 30 May as planned due to someone else coming out – set tentative date for 8 June, but poss. probs. finding good tide to go down river. May try for better date…
Second coat of varnish on lazarette hatch after sanding. errand to P.O. & grocer in Beachmere. Continued work on Aries mounts. Many trips up & down ladder between boarding place and stern (transom). After drilling & re-mounting top two didn’t line up, so had to remove & reshape holes. Big hassle. In & out of lazarette a million times, plus up & down endless ladders. Glad that’s finished. Should start engine work tomorrow… But errands too. Trying to figure which batteries will be best – gel cell non-maintenance (high $) or standard lead acid (low $, high amp).
24 May – Tues.
0600 Clean around areas of “old” Aries mounts. Fill and cover with resin & fiberglass. Order batteries 2 ea. gel cells (63A ea.) $261.00 x 2 = A$522.00; also one engine start battery – 200A = A$230.00. Total for batts: A$752.00 or US$587.00. Sure hope I made the right decision…
Errand to bank – CMA debits – 24 May – A$ 1000.00 = US$780.00. Paid A$800.00 on account at Monty’s to cover battery order.
3rd coat varnish on lazarette hatch. Unbolt engine mounts, fashion wooden blocks. Jim T. will help make soft mounts tomorrow. Don’t think it will be too bad to get it level & secure.
25 May – Wed.
0600 Correspondence & errands. Waiting for Jim T. to cut rubber washers for engine mounts. cut misc. wooden “shims” (diff. thicknesses) for eng. mounts. Shortly after noon Bernd arrives (with hired car). He’s off a few days so came out to visit. Decide to get ride into Brisbane with him since I must see Customs tomorrow. We go to 3 different marinas (Newport, East Coast, & Royal Qld. Yacht Squad.). I decide on RQ. They will recognize my Kwaj. Y.C. membership as recip[rocal].
26 May – Thurs.
0800 With Bernd to RQYS Marina for final arrangements for berth for Rhysling.
1030 Appointment with Customs. Things seem to be getting worse. Now they say I cannot cruise up the coast without first posting bond on Rhysling. That amounts to 55% of her value! The only other choice is to clear out from Brisbane and depart the country. Sooooo – for the second time in a week my plans have taken a major change. I will prepare and leave by the end of June, sail to Solomon Is. and cruise through them to PNG. Launch date still remains the same.
CMA debit: A$200.00 = US$158.00 for sheet line & typewriter from Bernd.
1600 Return to Rhysling. Varnish wooden shims (eng. mounts).
27 May – Fri.
0600 A good constructive day working on the engine. Replaced both portside engine mounts and aligned shaft. Checked packing and replaced one “ring”. There are 3 rings now in the packing gland[22]. Uncovered air filter & replaced breather. Unplugged exhaust line and re-bolted with gasket. Replaced some of the badly worn bolts. Took new trolling generator motor out of casing so Jim T. can cut it down on lathe to fit SS casing. B.B.Q. with boat folks at Monty’s.
28 May – Sat.
0600 Remove injectors and clean & replace copper washers. Align injectors with high pressure pipes. Label battery wires, remove all batteries. Clean battery boxes. Draw up design for new cassette player.
29 May – Sun.
0600 Organize portside fwd. stowage locker. Inspect, clean & grease thru-hull seacock for head drain in locker (almost missed this one!). Replace loose or missing plugs in all topsides teak (caprails, LPG box, dorades[23], etc.). Teak is getting thin & worn. 3 Customs officers aboard approx. 1100 to check boat & hear my plans. Steve Jeffs with Rhysling’s “record”. Had coffee & light conversation. Spent about 30 min. aboard.
Scrub all topsides with H2O & 409. Lots of dirt and spider webs, bug nests, etc., especially in and around hull ports. Looks much better, but a bigger job than expected. Return batt. boxes to ER[24] after good airing out. Lube & free up dogs[25] on head opening port.
30 May – Mon.
0600 Cold night, 8ºC. Laundry day. Drill holes in zincs. Now there is one complete extra set besides those going on before launching. Call Boatbooks about finding copy of Lucas’s Cruising PNG at Sydney store, no luck. Errands in Beachmere (fresh groceries). Cut & sand flush all new teak plugs outside. Remove PVC vent cowls & windlass cover. Scrub clean. They were extremely black & moldy. Clean windlass, lube and check. Repaint name & home port on stern (due to relocation of Aries mounts & fading). Re-assemble spare trolling generator after Norm turned down faceplate to fit SS casing. Flush and drain p&s fresh water tanks. Take out empty propane tank from fwd. stowage for testing (tomorrow) & filling(?).
31 May – Tues.
0600 Morning rain; cloudy. Take out 2 LPG tanks, ready to take into town for checking. Bring aboard new “gel cell” house batteries. Begin setting up & pinning standing rigging.
Ride to town with Gary T. with LPG tanks. Gas company seemed doubtful about filling & checking due to rust. Cost of inspection nearly equal to new, but smaller tanks. Bought 2 tanks. Tanks are vertical and will require modification to deck box. Edna will check for teak so I can do so. Battery man – Jeff from Turbo – out with new eng. start batt. Grant & Alf help load new batt. and offload old one. Talk with Lawrence of “Free Wind” about poss. using scrap teak. Flush p&s fresh water tanks again – water looking cleaner. Earlier: Modify house batt. boxes to hold new-sized batteries.
2000 Decided to get batts. all installed. Some fiddling due to smaller terminals on house batts., but not as bad as I’d thought. Being smaller they are definitely easier to handle. Everything shows nearly 100% on the voltmeter, so I’m set. Now if I can care for them properly they should last quite a while. All finished about 2230.
1 June – Wed.
0600 What’s so rare as a day in June…
Such an appropriate day to reactivate the engine! Errand to town with Ray of “Moana II”. New propane tanks to gas place for filling plus plumbing fittings for comparisons.
Ordered teak for remodeling propane box. Should cost about $20.00.
By midday was into replacing fuel filters and priming system. Plumbed in fresh water hose to raw water[26] pump for cooling. Even with new heavy duty start batt. she was hard turning over. Bled & re-bled air. After 3rd try it was a bit discouraging. Thought perhaps air getting in after filter changes. checked & re-checked fittings. Some smoke on 4th try but water from manifold gave fear I may have forced H2O into engine! But check showed none. Tried again after charging start batt. a few times (I was really draining it!). Voila – at 1640 she fired and started right up! Ran fine. Normal oil press. and temp. Ran engine 40 min. to charge up & fully clean system. Will give her a go once more tomorrow… Halleluiah! I’m very happy. So what is so rare as a day in June?!!
2 June – Thurs.
0600 Correspondence. Started engine and she did so in 5-10 seconds. Much easier this time, no bleeding necessary. Undid plumbing to raw water pump. Set up pluming for flushing fresh water tanks (p&s). Sort through dry goods locker and spice & condiments locker. Dump old or rotten goods. Most flours & sugars bad plus many misc. items.
Message from Gas Co. about poss. problem with new gas hookup. May have to go into Caboolture tomorrow to straighten it up.
Continue flushing out p&s fresh water tanks. Finally seem clean so finished.
Flush & clean – rattle scrub with SS bolts – fresh water jerry jugs.
Teak timber in from supplier. Arrangements made for dressing by Gary or Jim T.
Visit by Bernd &John Loughran. Bernd off on 2 consecutive 14 day voyages. John may help with fitting out in Manly & possibly join as crew to Solomons. We’ll see how things work out…
0600 Rainy night; clear morning. Measure and diagram gas hookup (LPG locker). Bike to Caboolture and discuss system with gas people. Seems I must change things around to make it proper. Should have press. regulator on the bottle. Just needed 2 fittings and it should work out.
Jim T. got the teak timber dressed & Gary T. will cut it up on table saw tomorrow.
Haircut in Caboolture and then to “Crossroads” for grease & outboard motor oil. Met John who has waterfront property on river and invited me to moor there if I wish… too bad I don’t have more time here… he gave me a ride back to Monty’s and looked at Rhysling.
Errands and shopping in Beachmere.
Re-plumb piping to fresh water tanks and close up knotmeter thru-hull. Organize lazarette, re-install supports on laz. hatch. Grease steering gear (two zerks cleared & checked). Load grease gun cartridges – stow grease and oil.
Heavy rain in late afternoon.
Letter from Lonergans in N.Z. says they’ll be in Brisbane 20 June. It will be fun to get together!
4 June – Sat.
0600 Rain all night; heavy & steady. Real swampy around Rhysling. Cut teak into proper size to build “extension” on top of LPG deck box. Gary T. did it on table saw. Glue edges of top piece. Should be able to finish it tomorrow.
Wet-sand bottom using 100 gr[it] paper. A good wet, soggy day to do it! Sloshing around in the mud and weeds. But I plugged the portable stereo into my ears and with raincoat I rocked, sloshed, rolled, and sanded. Took about 4 hours to sand entire bottom without rushing. My reward was a hot shower and glass of Bundy Rum afterwards. More rain predicted for tomorrow. Cleared weeds from under keel. Sure hope it’s dry Mon. & Tues. when I plan on putting on the bottom paint…
5 June – Mon.
0600 Rain all night; down to drizzle early a.m. Construct (glue, clamp & screw) extension top for LPG deck box. Plug. Remove chocks from lid of box in preparation for cutting hole for new extension. Clean & organize locker below sink in head. Transfer items from deteriorating containers – scrape up dried deck paint from container that leaked.
Help “Dusty” (5) from neighbor trimaran “build” toy boat from wood scraps. Practice taking coded wx broadcast on USB[27]. No problem, it came right back[28]. Already daydreaming during copy. Wx forecast for tomorrow: Fine. Should be perfect for painting anti-fouling.
6 June – Mon.
0600 Clear, humid night. Laundry day. Cut plugs, shape and sand new LPG box cover. Order last paints and misc. from Monty’s office. To Caboolture for banking and errands.
CMA: A$232.00 = US$ 187.92 – Caboolture Gas – New LPG tanks
A$500.00 = US$405.00 - Pay off Monty’s bill & cash
Total: A$732.00 = US$592.92
New gas container & plastic storage containers at K-Mart. Met Laurance & Charlotte of “Free Bird” in town and asked if they could take the 4 gas bottles back in their car. No problem. Invited to dinner with them to talk about Solomons.
1200 Start rolling on anti-fouling – Epiglass “E-Type” racing red. Hoped I could get 2 coats out of 8 liters, but 1st coat took a bit over 4 liters. 2nd coat didn’t take as much, though, so I managed to do 2 complete coats with 8 liters with just enough to spare for cradle & keel patches. Thinned with only 500g Universal thinner.
1600 Finished rolling out 2 coats anti-fouling. 1 hr. per side using 7” roller.
7 June – Tues.
0600 Nice dinner last night with Lawrence & Charlotte of “Free Bird”. Much good info gleaned about Solomons and PNG from their visits there.
Replace all zincs. Some not too badly eaten so will save for poss. spares. Start work on installing addition to LPG locker top. Cut out lid hole and fit.
Mask and paint 2 coats Epiglass anti-fouling sealer over existing bootstripe. Wait 2 hours for overcoat. Meanwhile finish mounting addition to LPG locker top (glue & screw). Paint 2 coats Epiglass “barrier” anti-fouling (Marlin Blue) on bootstripe. 2 coats required a bit less than 1 litre due to thickness of paint. Approx. ½ hr. per side per coat – so 2 coats took 2 hours. Very sore arm & neck from brushing total of 4 coats on bootstripe today.
Connect new LPG bottles in locker. Cleanup. A full, productive day.
2100 “Re-assemble” cockpit cushions. Re-build forepeak brackets for LPG bottles. Stow 2 new bottles in forepeak.
8 June – Wed.
0600 Cut rubber padding & braces for LPG bottles in deck locker. To town with Ray for shopping.
1100 Mobile cradle positioned under Rhysling
1230 Calls to Customs & Agriculture to notify of re-launching today. Arrangement made with Bruce Bell of RQYS for berth (J-29).
1445 Rhysling set up in mobile cradle. 2 slings fwd. due to heavy bow. Bottom paint on cradle patches.
1530 Cradle lined up at ramp for re-launching; awaiting high tide (1640-1700)
1617 Keel in water.
1630 Release slings; Rhysling pulled around by lines to raft alongside “Coral Dancer”.
1640 Moored portside to “Coral Dancer” in Caboolture River. All seacocks checked – no leakage. Slight drip in packing gland. Problem with head when re-activated – possibly in seat around “joker” valve. Will investigate further.
Sure is good to be back in the water!
2000 Finally got head back in order – dismantled five times before problem found. Only way to test for leaks was to completely assemble each time. Thought it was gasket on rising main, but apparently it was the “joker” valve seal against waste outlet. Anyway, it was just perseverance that finally won out. Head works smoothly now, no leaks.
9 June – Thurs.
0600 Check shaft alignment – fwd. end of engine a bit high; tighten mounts to bring level. Rig stern anchor. Set up all halyards & rigging; general cleanup on deck. Set up lifeline stanchion supports.
0915 Engine test – 15 sec. start. Charge batts. ½ hr. Top off jerry jugs with fresh water. Grease all sheet & halyard winches. Tie down SatNav & radar wires on mizzen shrouds (most existing tie wraps deteriorated by sun).
1500 Mark Habelow from Laidley aboard as “river crew”.
1700 Big gathering of Monty’s yachties to toast farewell to Rhysling. Surprise gift of Lucas’s book “Cruising PNG” from Al & Les.
10 June – Fri.
0450 Rig spotlight; prepare to get u/w
0525 Engine on; running lights on.
0530 John Glasson aboard as “river crew”
0535 u/w down Caboolture River; ptly. cloudy with slight mist on river.
0600 Transit Baker’s Flats; high tide.
0635 P.O.D: Caboolture Beacon; o/c 105ºM, 1500 RPM, sunrise. Running lts. secured. No wind.
0650 Engine secured to adjust packing gland.
0655 Engine on – continue on course.
0730 N. Reef bn abeam stbd. o/c 140ºM.
0837 Q.Y. buoy ab’m port.
0856 Buoy #1 ab’m stbd; transit Brisbane entrance channel. SMG = 5.1
1000 Jib (working) set; engine secured.
1015 Set main & mizzen; organize reefing lines. Wind – WSW 4 kts.
1300 Wind to 20+ knots – exhilarating sailing! Daysail between Mud Is. and Cleveland Pt.
1330 Secure main to reduce speed and heeling.
1525 Tack between St. Helena Is. and Green Is. to approach Manly.
1605 Engine on; down jib & mizzen.
1610 Enter Manly approach channel.
1630 Moored at berth J-29, Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron. Engine secured.
11 June – Sat.
0630 Cleanup. Ashore to “Rockbottom Marine” to check on possible replacement windlass. To train depot with John & Mark (John off to Caboolture).
Rig Aries gear on transom. General deck cleanup. Scrub scuppers, cockpit sole, deck under dinghy, etc. Scrub Zodiac valise[29], scrub dinghy, clean inside dodger area, rig chafing gear on bow lines. Top off p&s fresh water tanks. Change filter on galley foot pump. Test SatNav receiver.
12 June – Sun.
Up to masthead to inspect all fittings and measure for extra fore & back stays. Visit by Jim & Denise (U.S. & S. Africa) – hiring crew. Unbolt and remove windlass to check for poss. malfunction. All internal gears appear well oiled. Poss. slipping clutch cone.
13 June – Mon. Holiday – “Queens B-Day” –
Construct jackline[30] using 3/16” covered wire rope (old mizzen topping lift). Splice ½” line at mainmast base for jackline. Clean fresh water filter holder in head; change filter. Activate fresh water pump in head basin; tighten packing.
Dismantle stern light to check malfunction. Poss. bad connection in unit. Re-wire switch to put stern light on bow light switch. Corrosion & stripped screws fro wire terminals on stern light unit; may have to replace.
14 June – Tues.
Check in with Bruce Bell at marina office. No prob. to stay 3 weeks. Very nice man. Check in Manly for stern light – no luck. P.O., phone calls to – agent for shipped items coming in (they’re here), PNG consulate for visa forms, various dealers for windlass parts (perhaps Green Chandlers has lead with Sydney shop on parts).
Ride to Eagle Farm with Jim & Denise in super VW Boatvan to take care of shipping details with Ousten, Francis & Co. Pty. Ltd., then into Brisban[e] for Customs paperwork. Nice help by Customs officer Naomi Beacham. All paperwork taken care of. Check in with Customs re. clearing out with Rhysling on 30 June. Appt. made for 0830 at Manly. All appropriate paperwork received.
A long day, but much accomplished. Also check at Boatbooks for tide tables – light lists – ordered tide tables, should be in in a week.
2000 Eng. checks – exercise engine ½ hour.
CMA – Cash adv: A$500.00 = US$400.00 (berthing fees & misc.)
15 June – Wed.
Mostly phone calls and arrangements made. Details given to Customs for gear coming in by ship. Call Monty’s about recovering leftover bootstripe paint for touchups. Call John Glasson about equivalent grease for windlass. Green Chandlers can order needed parts for S/L windlass and forward to me in Honiara. Sailmaker contacted about repairing Maui jib. Will pick up late p.m.
Measure jib halyard for replacement. Locate proper fittings to rig whisker pole[31]. Repair galley kettle.
1630 John Loughran aboard to help with u/w preparations and as potential crew.
16 June – Thurs.
Lots of errands with John L. To Tickles Marine and Whitworth’s for misc. fittings. Check on line for jib halyard at rope wholesaler & mfr. Check on courtesy flags at flag maker’s. Check on items at “tent makers”. Sleeping bag to dry cleaners. Acrylan hatch covers to canvas shop for duplication. Replacement stern light found at Rockbottom Marine. Re-install stern light in existing socket for installation tomorrow. Wind (20-30 kts. SW) and rain. Gray day.
Check prices at discount food stores for future provisioning. Buy flag making material. John cuts & fits material for Solomon Is. flag. Check again for ordering parts for S/L windlass. Check with rigger about headstay backup. Will get together Mon. a.m.
17 June – Fri.
Re-install windlass after packing with grease and sealing with silicone. Poss. problem with brass washer on brake wheel; may replace with heavier washer. John to town on errands. Re-install “rebuilt” stern light; re-drill hole for wires & silicone. Rig whisker pole fittings on mast. Cheek block & topping lift block test for operation. Check securing of halyard (main) winch handles. Possible modification on securing latch needed. John back with 3 fabricated brass washers for windlass brake. Only A$6.00 for all three! B.B.Q. tonight at RQYS.
18 June – Sat.
Prepare to get u/w. General deck tiedown, etc.
1000 Starkey family aboard for picnic day sail.
1020 Bleed air (?) from fuel lines.
1030 Engine on.
1040 u/w to Moreton Bay.
1110 Up working jib; eng. secured. Up main. Wind WSW 1-2 kts.
1140 Calm. Drift mode.
1155 Secure sails; eng. on; u/w to Manly Harbor.
1240 Moored at berth J-29, RQYS marina.
Dismantle Aries steering line blocks and modify for higher leads. Re-assemble.
19 June – Sun.
Wipe down overhead of interior. General cleanup. Visit by Jim & Denise. Visit by Plaisted family. Fit washers to windlass brake arm.
20 June – Mon.
John on errands, Dr., etc. Check on Malaria pills. Pick up new cloth hatch covers. Dismantle head flooring to check malfunction of sump pump. Impeller stuck due to lack of use. Lubricate and replace “O” ring belts with slightly smaller ones. Visit to Bernd for PNG charts.
21 June – Tues.
Box of personal effects at Interport terminal. Organize trailer with John’s car to pick up and deliver to RQYS marina. Load all gear aboard Rhysling. Begin stowing.
22 June – Wed.
Continue stowing gear from pers. effects shipment. John to check on anti-malaria prescriptions and ant[enna] tuner for Atlas radio. Pick up finished hatch covers and repaired Maui jib. Buy new water jugs for liferaft kit.
23 June – Thurs.
Off to Expo! Also to Brisbane for PNG visa. Overnight at Plaisted’s.
24 June – Fri.
Organize gear in fwd. cabin. Errands, bank, etc.
Engine test & batt. charge.
25 June – Sun.
Stow and organize gear. Rig liferaft and emerg. drinking water with dinghy. To Gold Coast to visit Brian & Val Lonergan from New Zealand.
27 June – Mon.
John on errands for misc. items – anti-malarial pills, etc. Provision at Franklin’s 0900-1700. Total spent A$721.71.
28 June – Tues.
To town on general errands – pick up visa at PNG Consulate, charts & pubs., liquid supplies, halyard line, trading goods, etc.
1700 Mark Habelow aboard as crew for Honiara passage; John off to Byron Bay to return car, will return tomorrow as crew.
CMA: A$ 97.26 (duty free goods)
119.80 (wine)
37.18 (beer)
141.00 (charts)
120.00 (halyard)
[Total] A$417.98 = US$338.56
29 June – Wed.
Stow provisions & inventory canned goods and dry goods lockers. Top off fresh water tanks. Buy fresh provisions and stow. Last shoreside dinner at “Lucky’s” in Brisbane.
30 June – Thurs.
0700 Finish topping off all fresh water tanks. Prepare to get u/w
080 Engine on.
0815 u/w to RQYS fuel dock.
0830 Moored stbd. side to fuel dock; commence topping off fuel tanks.
0850 Secure fuelling. Total fuel taken on: 306 lt. @ A$.50/lt. = A$153.00
0910 Engine on; u/w to dock J-29
0920 Moored stbd. side to J-29, RQYS; awaiting Customs officials.
0940 Customs officials aboard. 1000 2 Cloroquin tabs ea. John & Mike
1025 Customs officals ashore. Engine on.
1030 u/w from RQYS to Honiara, Guadalcanal, Solomon Is.
1045 P.O.D. – Manly chan. ent; o/c 010ºM, motorsail with #2 jib.
1250 Engine secured. o/c 015ºM with #2 jib. Winds S 10-15.
1320 Gravity feed aft tank to top off main fuel tank (some leakage on aft tank top). Tighten packing on rudder shaft gland.
1440 Down #2 jib.
1450 Up Maui jib with whisker pole.
1525 Comboyuro Pt. ab’m stbd., jibe. Inboard end of whisker pole broken while jibing.
1535 Around Comboyuro Pt., P.O.D. o/c 032ºM for Solomon Is.
1545 Set main – wind SSW @ 6-8 kts.
1755 Cape Moreton Lt. ab’m stbd.
2135 o/c to avoid cargo vessel bound Sydney to Hong Kong; brief talk on Ch. 06.
2200 Down Maui jib, up working jib; down main. Passing showers, wind increase to 25+ (30 kt. gusts).
2320 Satfix: 26º 40.6S – 153º 51.9E
0130 Continued passing showers. Winds to 45 kt.gusts SE.
1200 DR: 25º 57.0S – 154º38.5E
1428 Satfix: 25º 46.8S – 154º 40.6E
1640 Passing squalls with 40-45 kt. winds – gusts to 50.
2200 Continuing o/c 020-030ºM. Winds SE @ 20-25 kts.
0042 Satfix: 25º 16.4S – 155º 11.9E. SMG = 4.4
1200 DR: 24º 31.9S – 155º 43.2E. Winds ESE 25 kts. with 30 kt. gusts. o/c 020ºM with working jib.
1340 Engine on to chg. batt. & exercise.
1440 Engine secured; smear grease on worm gear (steering); tighten loose nuts on aft bearing block of worm gear.
1700 Winds to 40 kts. – seas very confused. N & SE swells.
1948 Satfix: 23º 43.4S – 155º 43.7E
2200 Winds steady 40 kts; heavy seas from E & SE.
3 July – Sun.
0100 House batt. #1 down to 25% charge; switch to “both” batts. to even up charge; both batts now 50%.
0345 Resecure furled main. Winds continuing 40-50 kts. Seas lg.
0700 Continued gale force winds & seas.
0840 Satfix: 22º 43.2S – 156º 23.3E. SMG = 5.5, CMG = 020ºM
1000 Wx surf[ace] anal[ysis] shows convergence zone pushed by 1007mb low in our area (from NNW)
1130 Up reefed mizzen, down working jib, up high wind jib. Winds 45-50 kts. with gusts to 60. Seas 4-5 meters.
1200 DR: 22º 28.0S – 156º 30.0E
1530 Rig trolling gen. with new voltage reg. to chg. house batts. #1&2.
1700 Continued winds 30-40 kts; lg. seas.
1922 Satfix: 22º 05.3S – 156º 41.7E
2330 Winds continuing at gale force – 40-50 kts. with gusts to 55 & 60. Continual boarding seas.
4 July – 1988 – Monday [stars & firecracker with lit fuse]
0000 Continued gale force winds – 40-50 kts. with gusts to 55. Large seas frequently boarding.
0510 Satfix: 21º 32.8S – 157º 05.3E. SMG = 3.8
0600 Continued winds 40-50 kts. with higher gusts and continual boarding seas.
0900 Clear water from portside fwd. hanging locker. Leak discovered in head sump discharge seacock (90º union). Seacock secured until repair can be made.
1100 Winds abating, 25-30 kts. – gusts to 40.
1200 DR: 21º 13S – 157º 15E
1230 Grease steering, oil Aries, re-tie petrol cont. Up double reefed main to point higher.
1315 o/c 030-040ºM @ approx. 4.5 kts.
1900 Satfix: 20º 51.3S – 157º 31.1E
0200 Wheel drum[32] U-bolts for Aries sheared. Commence hand steering until repairs can be made. o/c 020-030ºM
0226 Satfix: 20º 22.0S – 157º 43.1E
0600 Trolling gen. secured
1108 Satfix: 19º 56.3S – 157º 59.8E
0930 Onto port tack (wind shift to ENE(!)). o/c 125ºM
1215 Onto stbd. tack
1345 Up single reef main. Con’t. o/c 020-030ºM
1635 Chesterfield Reef in sight on horizon broad on stbd. bow.
1700 Hove to off west side of Chesterfield Group (reefed mizzen).
2308 Satfix: 19º 48.3S – 158º 10.9E
2345 Up small jib; u/w with jib & mizzen on course 150ºM for vicinity offshore of Bennett (Passage) Islet.
6 July – Wed.
0000 u/w with small jib & mizzen to vicinity offshore of Bennett Islet, Chesterfield Reef. Winds 15-20 ESE.
0200 Onto stbd. tack – o/c 015ºM, 3.8 kts.
0430 Down jib; heave to off SW reef.
0545 Up jib; u/w with small jib & mizzen oceanside W reef. o/c 130ºM
0715 Up reefed main, o/c 135ºM. Winds 30-35 kts. ESE – squalls to east.
0803 North end Long Is. Pretty as a picture. Birds!![33]
0820 SatNav secured.
0930 Heave to off Passage Islet awaiting favorable light conditions.
1100 Up reefed main, u/w toward passage.
1122 Transit passage. Island Pass.
1435 Anchored in 20’ water, N. anchorage islet, Chesterfield Reefs for storm damage repairs. Spoke with Ron of “Yarandu II”, out of Freemantle by way of Noumea, via VHF, about anchorage, wx, etc.
2000-
2100 Advance ships clocks 1 hr. to conform to –11 time zone.
7 July – Thurs.
0700 Anchored at Chesterfield Reefs. Commence repair work on Aries, general cleanup.
1600 Wheel drum replaced on Aries. Lube steering gear; check all mounting bolts in steering box; fill grease gun.
8 July – Fri.
0900 Work on leaking seacock in fwd. portside locker. Clean, grease elbow flange nut & add new cork gasket. Replace voltage reg. on M/E[34]. Re-wire to alt. Run engine for test ½ hr. Check start batt. water. Add to one cell. Clean bilge. Check aft tank leakage; clean up. Xfer fuel from aft tank to main tank. Check & tighten rudder shaft packing gland.
9 July – Sat.
0630 Prepare to get u/w
0745 Engine on.
0755 Anchor aboard; u/w to Long Is. passage – o/c 272ºM
0855 Engine secured; set Maui jib; o/c 272ºM. Wind ESE @ 8-10
1050 Transit Long Is. pass, jibe; o/c 325ºM
1530 Ab’m Avon Is. stbd; o/c 010º-015ºM; up main; S: approx 5.5 kts.
1900 Continued fine wx. Winds ESE @ 10-15 kts., some passing showers. o/c 000º-010ºM; main & Maui jib.
2105 Wind increase with passing shwrs. Single reef in main. Wind: ESE – 15-20.
2315 Bilge pump overworking due to water coming in from somewhere fwd.
2345 Water found passing vented loop in head sump discharge. Leak stopped by closing seacock.
10 July – Sun.
0000 On course 015ºM to Solomon Is. Single reefed main & Maui jib up. Wind: ESE 18-22.
0630 Star fix: 18º 10.4S – 158º 32.7E
0700 Wind increase to 25+ kts. Down Maui jib; up high wind jib. o/c 030ºM. Anemometer cups snagged by gyrating topping lift. Broken & dangling at masthead. Stbd. pulpit deck mount bolt off; temp. lashing made.
1100 Wx shows us at top of weak high. Winds should continue ESE for next day or so. Continue on course 030ºM @ 5 kts.
1230 Noon Lat: 17º 42.1S. SMG = 5.0 kts.
1430 R. Fix[35]: 17º 34.0S – 159º 00.8E
1600 Lube steering gear & Aries. Anemometer cups gone.
1800 Winds 20-24 kts. o/c 040-030ºM. Hitchhiking bird on port qtr.
2000 Winds decreasing slightly; 18-20. o/c 030ºM. S: 4-4.5.
11 July – Mon.
0000 Continuing o/c 030ºM with reefed main & high wind jib.
0618 Star fix: 16º 36.4S – 159º 40.6E. SMG in 24 hrs. = 4.8, CMG = 023ºM
0930 Chafe on port jib sheet against dinghy. Re-lead stbd. sheet to portside (& vice/versa), re-tie dinghy fwd. and add chafe gear to sheet.
1225 Noon lat: 16º 11.0S
1440 R. Fix: 16º 03.5S – 160º 14.2E
1830 Continue o/c 040º-030ºM with single reefed main & jib. S: approx 4 kts.
2300 Winds down to 18-20; seas abating but still occasional boarding seas. o/c 030ºM, 4 kts.
12 July – Tues.
0000 Continue o/c 030-040ºM with single reefed main & h.w. jib. S: approx. 4 kts. Winds ESE 18-22 with occasional boarding seas.
0600 Overcast; some showers. Continued ESE winds 20-25 kts. Sloppy seas. No morning star sight.
0800 Aries rudder adrift by safety line (sacrificial joint[36] parted). Rudder recovered & joint replaced.
0820 u/w o/c 030ºM @ 4 kts.
1400 Continued overcast, winds 16-22 with moderate seas. o/c 030ºM, approx 4 kts.
1530 Rain, wind abating.
1540 Calm, heavy rain; ï~ð Lightning strike very close.
1600 Hove to – calm, confused seas; heavy, steady rain.
1645 Wind from ESE 18-22; continuing rain. o/c 025ºM.
1650 Lite off SatNav
1840 SatFix: 14º 12.4S – 161º 58.8E
2000 Winds down to 16-18; o/c 010ºM
2200 Winds decreasing, seas down. o/c 000ºM
13 July – Wed.
0000 Continued moderate E to ENE winds. o/c 000-010ºM. 4.5 kts.
0304 Satfix: 13º 19.7S – 163º 10.9E
0400 Winds ENE @ 16-20. o/c 000ºM
0630 Wind shifting more N of east – ESE. o/c 350-000ºM
0800 Wind from NE @ 10-15 kts. Rig trolling generator. Lube steering & Aries.
0930 Wind continuing to back[37]. N @ 10-12 kts. o/c 280ºM
1020 Shake out reef in main; down h.w. jib, up #2 jib, up mizzen. Hand steer o/c 060ºM, light breeze from NNE to N, approx 4-6 kts. SMG approx. 3. Trolling gen. secured.
1242 Satfix: 12º 46.4S – 161º 54.0E. o/c 000ºM @ 4 kts., SatNav secured.
1430 Trolling gen. not functioning; secured.
1440 Engine on to chg. batts. Motorsail o/c 355ºM
1525 Engine secured; (#2 h.p.[38] pipe leaking)
1600 Continue o/c 000ºM, moderate ENE winds; passing showers.
1800 Rain shower. o/c 000ºM @ 3 kts.
1915 Rain; wind shift to N; o/c 370ºM, 3.5 kts.
1930 Shower passed; wind shift back to NNE; o/c 330ºM 4 kts.
2000 o/c 340ºM 3.5-4 kts.
2120 Variable shifting winds – o/c 340ºM @ 4 kts.
14 July – Thurs.
0000 Average course – 340ºM, 3.5 kts.
0130 Near calm; bare steerage. o/c 300ºM
0200 Wind veering to E. o/c 010ºM, 3 kts.
0245 o/c 000-010ºM; 3 kts.
0310 Line squall from NE; winds to 35 kts., rain; ease sheets; o/c 340ºM
0325 Wind & rain subsiding; o/c 350º-000ºM, 4 kts. Slight drizzle with ENE to E wind 12-16 kts.
0430 Nearly calm.
0450 SatNav on – DR posit: 11º 56S – 161º 47E
0505 Breeze from NE; o/c 340º; 3.5 kts.
0605 Wind increase from NE with approaching squall – 25+ kts. o/c 350ºM
0600 Satfix: 11º 54.1S – 161º 37.0E
0705 SatNav secured; continuing o/c 000ºM @ 4 kts.
0850 San Cristobal Island in sight dead ahead on horizon. o/c 000ºM, @ 4 kts.
1000 Wind shift; o/c 310ºM
1030 Onto port tack (wind from NW!); o/c 030º-040ºM
1430 Replace #2 h.p. pipe on engine (olive[39] pulled off on old one).
1445 Engine test & batt. charge. Motorsail o/c 010ºM
1535 Engine secured. Winds – calm. Drift mode…
1840 All sails secured. Total calm; drift mode awaiting wind.
2330 Continued calm. Standby; drift mode.
15 July – Fri.
0100 Continued calm; all sails down; drift mode.
Approx. DR position: 11º 20S – 161º 31E. Approx. 38 NM from San Cristobal Is.
0115 Engine on.
0120 u/w o/c 020ºM, motor in calm. SatNav on.
0228 Satfix: 11º 06.1S – 162º 10.9E
0300 o/c 310ºM
0435 Engine secured; drift mode. 8 NM S of San Cristobal awaiting dawn.
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0435 All sails down, drift mode, 8 NM S of San Cristobal Is., Solomons, awaiting first light.
0605 Engine on; motor in calm o/c 280ºM. 1500 RPM.
0930 SatNav secured.
1245 Anchored in 25’ water, Marunga Hbr. Visited by Chief’s nephew, Frank, who gives permission to stay a few days. Rain p.m.
16 July – Sat.
0630 Laundry day & general cleanup. Repair latch on head door, repair floorboard supports by head. Strengthen binnacle stand on mizzen. Up to masthead to check fittings & inspect broken anemometer cups.
17 July – Sun.
1000 To church in village. John joins in with flute at services. Then informal “jam session” afterwards. Bake bread. Begin sewing Solomon Is. courtesy flag. Rain p.m.
18 July – Mon.
0600 Continue sewing project. John ashore to check broken outboard engine. Visit to Chief with gift of bread & jam. Heavy rain p.m. Fill water jugs & port tank. Powerhead[40] from Mr. Jason aboard to take to Honiara for repair. Big magic show in village in p.m. Clean & adjust sextant (remove side error).
19 July –
Tues.
0600 Prepare to get u/w. Stow dinghy, Aries, misc. deck gear. Complete Sol. Is. flag. Wax teak.
1130 Engine checks.
1135 Eng. on.
1145 Anchor up.
1150 u/w to Haununu Bay, o/c 275ºM.
1410 Stern line to tree ashore; with vessel stern-to – anchor in 40’, stern in 15’. Engine secured.
20 July – Wed.
Misc. projects – lanyards on snap shackles, chafe gear on jib halyard, etc. Laundry. Xfer fuel from aft tank to main.
21 July – Thurs.
0545 Prepare to get u/w. Eng. checks.
0630 Engine on. Recover stern line.
0655 Anchor up; u/w to Marau Is.
0800 o/c 295ºM; Cape Howu ab’m stbd.
0930 Paragina Pt. ab’m stbd. SMG = 5.8
0945 Enter toward Maniwai Hbr. (between Marau Is. & mainland)
1020 Depth shallowing to 10’, rocks & reef ahead, U-turn, and backtrack to circle Marau Is. Brief stop near Maniwai Hbr. to trade with people in canoes, 5 canoes around Rhysling. Advice from man about shallows (4’) and also anchorage at Yanuta Is.
1050 u/w around Marau Is. to Yanuta Is.
1100 Marau Shoals ab’m stbd., o/c 305ºM
1345 Anchored in 35’ water, Yanuta Is. Visit by Paul and many schoolchildren.
21 July – Fri.
Continue work on alternator problem, rain. No wind. Visit by people from village.
23 July – Sat.
Market day at village. Prepare to get u/w. Invite school boys to sail to Honiara due to ship not coming.
1400 Request permission by Honiara Police Station via SSEC (South Seas Evangelical Church) radio, Honiara, to transport 3 students to Honiara; denied due to having not yet cleared customs.
1500 Prepare to get u/w
1625 Engine on.
1630 Anchor up; u/w with farewell guests & 8 canoes astern.
1645 All guests ashore after goodbyes, u/w to Guadalcanal.
1805 Achard Pt. ab’m stbd. o/c 320ºM.
1845 Binnacle light switch malfunction, jump switch for light.
2330 Passing showers; Guadalcanal Is. in sight on port bow. o/c 345ºM.
24 July – Sun.
0000 Up Maui jib; light winds from ENE; motorsail.
Cormorant Ent. lt. visible on port bow; o/c 340ºM.
0145 Cormorant Ent. lt. ab’m port, o/c 305ºM.
0330 Calm; down jib; continue motoring.
0815 Moored at Neal Is. Resort by invitation of Mr. Brendan. Wonderful fresh, hot breakfast & coffee.
1100 SatNav secured.
1530 Lubricate windlass & steering.
25 July – Mon.
0630 Prepare to get u/w; eng. check, xfer fuel from aft tank.
0650 Engine on.
0655 u/w, Maui jib up. Vessels “Wairangi”, N.Z. & “Magnum”, U.S.A., ahead.
0710 Engine secured; o/c 305ºM – 3.5 kts.
0845 Taivo Pt. lt. ab’m port. o/c 260ºM, up mizzen drifter. SMG = 6.3
1005 Wind increasing 20-25 kts. ESE, down mizz. drifter.
1030 Koli Pt. ab’m port; o/c 260ºM. SMG = 6.7
1155 Lunga Pt. ab’m port, o/c 240ºM
1230 1 mile ab’m Pt. Cruz (to port); engine on; down jib, standby for “Magnum” to moor before entering Honiara Hbr.
1400 Moored stern to NE end of seawall, 2 bow anchors & 2 stern lines out.
1530 Cleared Customs by Mr. George; instructed to clear Immigration & Health/Agri. tomorrow.
25-28 July
Honiara, general provisioning (fresh) and errands. Mark H. off to Brisbane 28 July. [Second crewman John still aboard for further cruising thru Solomons, some entries (see 1 Aug.) not in Mike’s handwriting]
29 July – Fri.
0700 Prepare to get u/w
0730 Eng. checks.
0735 Eng. on; recover port stern line; up bower anchor.
0800 Stbd. stern line aboard; up Danforth anchor; dinghy aboard, stow deck gear.
0815 u/w from Honiara, Guadalcanal, to Nggela Sula (Florida Group). o/c 035ºM.
0910 Engine secured; up #2 jib & mizzen. Wind E @ 20 kts. o/c 035º-040ºM @ 4 kts.
1345 Approach Mboli Passage; engine on, down sails.
1515 Anchored in 35’, Mboli Passage; engine secured.
Rest day.
1 Aug – Mon.
0830 Prepare to get u/w; eng. checks.
0855 Eng. on.
0905 Anchor up; u/w to “water pipe” to top off fresh water
0940 Anchored in 20’ @ water pipe, bow line to pipe; stern anchor out. Top off all fresh water tanks & jugs.
1110 Engine on.
1115 Anchor & line aboard; u/w to Mboli Pass & Sioto.
1215 Depart Sioto Hbr.
1235 Up Maui jib.
1240 Engine secured; wind ESE @ 10-12 kts.
1400 Enter Anutu Bay, opp. Narua Anc.
1430 Anchored in 25’, Anuta Bay.
1440 Eng. secured. Visit by 9 canoes – 12 schoolchildren.
2 Aug. – Tues.
0800 Prepare to get u/w
0855 Eng. checks; engine on.
0900 Anchor up, u/w to Hanesavo anch.
0930 Maui jib up, engine secured, course 190ºM
1000 Up mizz. drifter.
1035 Sandfly Passage ab’m port. SMG = 3.9
1155 Down mizz. drifter; jibe.
1315 Engine on, Maui jib down. Clean mahi-mahi.
1330 Enter anchorage, Hanesavo Hbr.
1350 Anchored in 40’ with stern line ashore
1410 Re-anchor for more scope & better holding
1430 Anchored in 50’ with stern line ashore, Hanesavo Is.
1700 Re-anchor with help of “Vega” crew – Elizabeth, Joe, Phil & Natalie. Windlass handle over the side. Anchored in 40’
1800 “New” windlass handle made from tire iron from “Vega”
3 Aug. – Wed.
0900 Heavy rain.
1000 Wind from NNE, gusting to 25-30 kts., anchor dragging.
1005 Engine on; stern line buoyed & cast off; recover anchor.
1035 Anchor aboard, wind & rain abating, recover shore line.
1140 Re-anchor off house of Mr. Ellison (by invitation).
1215 Anchored in 40’ with stern line ashore near Mr. Ellison’s house. John repairs binnacle lt. switch (corrosion). Rig solar panels.
4 Aug. – Thurs.
Repair whisker pole. Fashion installation of HF[41] radio. Begin work on HR radio antenna.
5 Aug. – Fri.
0630 Prepare to get u/w; eng. checks.
0640 Engine on; stern line aboard.
0705 Anchor up; u/w to Sta. Isabel Is.
0730 Barogohi Is. ab’m stbd.
1000 Rua Ndika Rks. ab’m stbd.
1400 Enter Thousand Ships Bay, Sta. Isabel Is.; motorsail due to light wind and opposing current.
1630 Anchored in 20’, Ortega Channel, Sta. Isabel Is.
1700 Change LPG gas bottle (regulator malfunction; change back to old one). 1 empty/ 3 full on hand.
6 Aug. – Sat.
Terminals on coax. Rig ½ wave dipole antenna for HF radio. Fix toolbox handle. Repair netting on fwd. hatch; new netting on dorades. Organize canned goods. Clean & wax salon table.
7 Aug. – Sun.
Rain all day….. shorten dipole feed line. Comms[42] with Monroe on P. Interisland net!
8 Aug. – Mon.
Wash day, baking day.
9 Aug. – Tues.
0830 Prepare to get u/w
0900 Engine on.
0915 Under way
0935 Kalo Point abeam, port.
1013 Huleo Is. ab’m stbd.
1047 Tanabafe Is. ab’m stbd.
1200 Anchored in 15’ in cover 5 NM SE of Nufu Pt., eng. secured. Hirolego Village.
10 Aug – Wed.
1230 Prepare to get u/w
1250 Eng. on
1255 u/w from Hirolego Village anchorage to NW corner of Mufu Pt.
1345 Heavy surge by Mufu Pt., continue on to Kolokale Is.
1430 Anchored in 55’ at Guara Is. (opposite Kolokale Is.)
1450 Stern line ashore to tree.
11 Aug. – Thurs.
1000 Anti-malaria (Cholorquin) tabs taken.
1430 Prepare to get u/w
1515 SatNav on.
1615 Eng. checks
1620 Eng. on
1645 Under way, course 264º 4.5 kts.
1735 Transit reef passage, o/c 235ºM
1745 Up Maui jib; eng. secured; o/c 235ºM, 2-3 kts. Light breeze from ESE.
1922 Satfix: 8º 17.5S – 159º 7.3E
2145 Rain, wind SE 15-20.
2200 Rain easing; wind – nearly calm.
12 Aug. – Fri.
0000 Continued rain & lightning. o/c 235ºM
0356 Satfix: 8º 33.6S – 158º 38.7E. SMG = 3.8 (from 1922)
0720 Rig whisker pole.
1200 Enter Mbili Passage, Morovo Lagoon.
1205 Down mizz. drifter.
1215 Engine on.
1230 Down Maui jib.
1240 Anchored in 25’ W side of Samihulumu Is., Morovo Lagoon
1245 Eng. secured; SatNav secured.
13 Aug. – Sat.
Sabbath day for SDA[43] villagers. Visit & religious discussion with George, Steedy, & Peter; hymns.
14 Aug. – Sun.
Visit with Charlie aboard “Kukara”. Visit by Chief Luten from Mbili Village, and Keith of “Sophia”. Locate air leak in diesel return line at secondary duel filter.
15 Aug. – Mon.
Constant rain throughout night and most of day. All water tanks topped off.
Flush out stbd. water tank. Add 1 ltr. bleach. 3 tbs. bleach to port tank.
16 Aug. – Tues.
1300 Prepare to get u/w
1325 Eng. on; u/w from Samihulumu Is. anchorage to oceanside for agitation of stbd. water tank (prior to flushing).
1355 Toatelave Is. ab’m portside. Maui jib up, motorsail.
1440 Jib down. Eng. secured. Roll mode.
1530 Tank flushing complete; up Maui jib, u/with to Tongoro Pass.
1600 Eng. on; motorsail to pass & anchorage. Down jib.
1650 Anchored in 20’ at N end of Samihulumu Is.
17 Aug. – Wed.
1130 Prepare to get u/w
1140 Engine on; up anchor
1145 u/w to Keto Keto Is.
1240 Anchored in 20’ N of Keto Keto Is., eng. secured.
1900 Village “BBQ” with singing, music, & magic!
18 Aug. – Thurs.
1100 Prepare to get u/w
1125 Eng. on.
1140 Anchor up; u/w to Mbatuna for market day.
1215 Anchored in 20’ @ Mbatuna.
1220 Eng. secured.
19 Aug. – Fri.
0900 Rain
1000 Prepare to get u/w
1025 Eng. on; up anchor.
1030 u/w from Mbatuna.
1150 Moored in 15’ at SW side of Rukutu Pt.
20 Aug. – Sat.
General cleanup.
21 Aug. – Sun.
Visit to village for church and lunch with Stephen Ruru and family. Evening service.
22 Aug. – Mon.
Trek to bush and river swim.
23 Aug. – Tues.
Sand and varnish hatches (fwd. & main cabin). Intermittent rain showers. 1 coat varnish applied. Visit by John Buka & Frank of Mbili (with 2 others) asking to buy alcohol. Told them we do not allow it to go ashore.
24 Aug. – Wed.
Rain; overcast. Organize books in forecabin area.
25 Aug. – Thurs.
Sand & second coat varnish on hatches. Fabricate new windlass handle with wood from Stephen.
26 Aug. – Fri.
0800 Prepare to get u/w for fishing trip with Rukutu villagers.
0930 New padding on swim step.
0955 Engine on.
1000 u/w to E side of Rukutu Pt.
1015 Anchored in 20’ near Stephen Rura’s house; Rukutu Village.
1100 3 canoes tied astern & gear aboard.
1110 Eng. on.
1115 u/w to Matimbako Is. for fishing expedition. 8 pax aboard from Rukutu Village. o/c 030ºM @ 1200 RPM.
1210 Anchored in 20’ at Matimbako Is.
27 Aug. – Sat.
0630 Prepare to get u/w.
0715 Eng. on.
0725 u/w – trolling – enroute to Rukutu village.
0825 Heave-to off Rukutu Village; offload pax, gear & canoes.
0835 u/w to Rukutu anchorage.
0850 Anchored in 30’ at W side of Rukutu Point.
28 Aug. – Sun.
0800 Rain and gusty E to ENE winds.
Sabbath day…
29 Aug. – Mon.
Sand & 3rd coat varnish on hatches. Oil & seize wooden winch handle. Sew chafing gear on dodger. Rig forehatch awning. Begin fabrication of PNG flag.
30 Aug. – Tues.
0715 Meeting with village elders about helping with church fund raising project. Will possibly apply with Immigration for 6 month visa extension.
31 Aug. – Wed.
Misc. sewing projects & cleanup.
p.m. Meet with Revs. Bruce & Steve, visiting from United Methodist church, Ohio, U.S.A. Invited to custom dance performance at Chumbikopi Village. Church service in evening.
1 Sept. – Thurs.
1100 Rain, overcast. Equalize p&s fresh water tanks. – 50 gal. ea.
1245 Contact with Tom on “Shady Lady” by VHF.
2 Sept. – Fri.
0015 Wind from NNE @ 20-30; heavy falls of rain.
0845 To Seghe with Arnold & Timothy for delivery of Beche de Mer[44] and visit with the Honorable Christopher Columbus, Member of Parliament, regarding procedure for extending visa.
p.m. “Scott Free” and “Shady Lady” in anchorage. visit with Art & Jean of “Scott Free” about visa extension (very difficult).
3 Sept. – Sat.
“Scott Free” u/w
Hike to waterfall with “Shady Lady” crew.
Dinner with Stephen Rura family.
4 Sept. – Sun.
Sabbath day.
5 Sept. – Mon.
Rain all day. Organize and list all charts in chart table. Contact with Ed in Orinda, Calif., via Ham. Same sked[45] set for next week.
6 Sept. – Tues.
0615 Prepare to get u/w
0645 Eng. on.
0705 Anchor up, under way. No wind – motor @ 1500 RPM
0925 Enter Njae Passage
0940 Seghe Pt. ab’m stbd.
0945 o/c 205ºM; u/w to Hele Bar Passage. Continued calm.
1120 Transit Hele Bar Passage (Pangga Passage)
1125 o/c 330ºM, u/w to Viru Hbr.
1420 Anchored in 30’ NE corner of Viru Harbor.
2040 Tighten packing gland 1/8 turn.
7 Sept. – Wed.
0630 Prepare to get u/w
0655 Eng. on.
0705 u/w from Viru Harbor.
0725 Transit harbor ent.
0750 Tambaka Pt. ab’m stbd; o/c 280ºM
1205 Rendova Hbr. ab’m port; o/c 258ºM
1345 Transit Munda Bar
1415 Anchored in 25’; Munda Hbr.
8 Sept. – Thurs.
0730 Prepare to get u/w
0800 Eng. checks – oil low – add 1 qt. Raw water pump leaking. Rig splash guard over elec.
0830 u/w from Munda anch.
1030 Eng. temp[orarily] secured to check oil level.
Add 1 qt. No sign of where oil is lost?…
1050 u/w o/c 300ºM to Gizo.
1410 Anchored in 25’ at W corner of Gizo Harbor.
9 Sept. – Fri.
Change out empty LPG bottle. 2 empty/2 full on hand. Current consumption – approx. 1 month per bottle.
Tighten packing gland 1/8 turn.
10 Sept. – Sat.
Engine work – bypass oil cooler with oil lines & raw water lines. Attempt freeing sump drain plug (no luck). Change oil and lube oil filter (add 5 qts.). Change out raw water pump. Re-plumb & mount old, rebuilt pump.
1600 Engine difficult start – poss. problem with start motor.
11 Sept. – Sun.
Remove & inspect start motor. Spring on Bendix damaged. Also some arcing on 2 brushes.
12 Sept. – Mon.
Errands – P.O., check with Immigration about poss. extension due to eng. probs. Also check on poss. replacement of Bendix gear spring. Misc. shopping.
13 Sept. – Tues.
Fabricate thrust washer for start motor shaft (commutator end). Straighten Bendix gear spring. Re-assemble start motor and test. Works okay on bench without load.
14 Sept. – Wed.
General field day of interior & cockpit.
Laundry day.
Re-install “rebuilt” starter motor. Engine start (!) and test all systems ok; no leaks.
15 Sept. – Thurs.
Work on PNG courtesy flag.
16 Sept. – Fri.
Market day. Continue work on PNG flag. General correspondence.
17 Sept. – Sat.
0730 Gen. errands. Prepare to get u/w.
Top off wash water jugs and petrol.
0915 Eng. checks.
0920 Eng. on.
0935 u/w from Gizo Hbr.
0950 Up Maui jib.
0955 Eng. secured. o/c to Steer around SE corner of Gizo Is. Wind – ESE @ 15 kts.
1050 Pielongo Point abeam stbd., course 305ºM
1330 Calm. Eng. on. u/w @ 1500 RPM toward Vella Lavella Is.
1430 Wind from N(!) @ 12-14 kts.
1435 Up Maui jib; motorsail.
1605 Anchored in 20’ over sand banks of Oula River delta.
18 Sept. – Sun.
The great crocodile expedition up the Oula River with inflatable & outboard. No inhabitants sighted. Swimming & prawn collecting in local stream.
19 Sept. – Mon.
Calms and rain showers all day.
20 Sept. – Tues.
0900 Prepare to get u/w
1010 Eng. on.
1015 u/w from Oula River anch.
1025 Up Maui jib; motorsail
1045 Eng. secured, o/c 286ºM
1055 Up mizz. drifter.
1300 All sails down, eng. on – u/w to Mundi Mundi anch.
1355 Anchored in 15’ @ Mundi Mundi
1400 Eng. secured.
21 Sept. – Wed.
General correspondence. Begin work on awning (chafe gear & modification).
22 Sept. – Thurs.
0600 Prepare to get u/w
0620 Eng. on.
0625 u/w from Mundi Mundi anch.
0630 Transit reef pass.
0635 o/c 300º to Shortland Is.
0735 Breeze from NNE; up Maui jib, motorsail
0815 Wind increase & shift to NE. Eng. secured. Mizz. drifter up.
1200 Fix by bearings: 7º 21.5S – 156º 04.7E. SMG = 5.8
1500 Decrease in wind – 5-8 kts. Eng. on – motorsail to make destination before sunset.
1630 Down all sails.
1655 Anchored in 30’ at Nila Village, Shortland Is. Hbr.
1700 Engine secured.
23 Sept. – Fri.
Errands to P.O. and to visit village.
24 Sept. – Sat.
Big bazaar day for Nila school. 4 magic shows!
25 Sept. – Sun.
Sabbath. Lookabout Porporang Is. Dinner with John & Gorcti.
26 Sept. – Mon.
Laundry day.
1300 Cleared Customs and Immigration for tomorrow’s a.m. departure.
27 Sept. – Tues.
0700 Prepare to get u/w
0820 Eng. checks.
0830 Eng. on; up anchor.
0835 u/w from Nila Village anch. Light headwind/calms – motor @ 1500 RPM.
1120 Asie Is. ab’m stbd. SMG = 6.1, ETA Oema Atoll – 1400
1227 Kanasata Is. ab’m stbd. SMG = 6.7.
1410 Oema Atoll depths unreasonable for anchoring, u/w to Oema Island.
1515 Anchored in 50’ with stern line & Danforth; bow line ashore to tree. Bow in 10’, stern in 30-40’! Sand bottom. Bay facing S on Oema Island. VHF contact with Art & Jean on “Scott Free” anchored at Oema Atoll.
28 Sept. – Wed.
0700 Light showers, calm.
Standby for wind…
1700 Heavy rain; top off stbd. water tank.
29 Sept. – Thurs.
0700 Continued calm. s/b[46] for wind… Add bleach to p&s fresh water tanks
1800 Eng. checks for early a.m. departure. Xfer fuel from aft tank. Main tank full – aft tank approx ¼.
2030 Heavy rain; all fresh water tanks topped off.
30 Sept. – Fri.
0320 Prepare to get u/w
0325 Eng. on.
0330 Recover bow line from shore
0340 Both anchors aboard; u/w from Oema Is. anch. to Kieta
0400 o/c 314ºM under power @ 1500 RPM (calm)
0615 Up Maui jib – wind WNW 4-8 kts. – motorsail.
0625 Laluai Pt. ab’m port. SMG = 5.9
0820 Koromira Pt. mission sta. ab’m port. SMG = 5.8. ETA Kieta = 1100
0955 Down jib.
1000 Contact with Kieta Port Control on Ch. 16. Instructed to go alongside jetty for Customs & Imm. clearance.
1020 Enter Kieta Hbr.
1050 Moored stbd. side to main wharf; eng. secured.
1100 Ashore for Customs & Imm. clearance.
1130 Back aboard, awaiting Customs boarding officer.
1155 Customs officer ashore. All cleared. “Q” secured.
u/w to Y.C. anchorage.
1200-
1100 Retard clocks 1 hr. to conform with –10 time zone.
1130 Moored on Y.C. mooring, Kieta.
1300 Ashore to check on mooring for Rhysling.
1 Oct. 1988 – Sat.
0930 Tighten packing gland ¼ turn; eng. checks.
1020 Eng. on; u/w to shift to new mooring.
1045 Moored on Y.C. mooring, Kieta; test mooring strength with stern turns @ 2200 RPM. All okay.
1050 Eng. secured.
Rig main cabin awning.
2 Oct. – Sun.
Visit to Bougainville copper mine with Roy & Kathy Brown of “Catnap”
3 Oct. – Mon.
Rain – errands by John.
4 Oct. – Tues.
Laundry day. Errands by Mike. Rig secondary bow line to mooring.
5 Oct. – Wed.
Refill 2 propane tanks and restow fwd. Cost K$18.50. Buy polyester resin (K$18.00) and fiberglass fwd. hatch joints to reinforce and prevent leakage.
6 Oct. – Thurs.
Continue fiberglassing hatches and areas on decks.
7 Oct. – Fri.
General cleanup. Head & interior; wipe down teak in galley area. Trim fiberglassed area on bridgedeck combing. Heavy rain and wind in evening. Scrub all cockpit cushions.
8 Oct. – Sat.
Fabricate 15m band ½ wave dipole and add to current 20m dipole. Rewire solar cells for connection in 12V outlet in propane box. Install 12V outlet for eng. start batt. for solar charging.
Replace faulty PL259 coax connector on HF radio antenna. John Mowati (P29JM) out to see boat and ham rig.
Wire replacement trolling gen. and install in mounting bracket. Inspect old motor – all brushes must be replaced (incl. brush holders(?)).
Rain mid-afternoon.
11 Oct. – Wed.
Receive antenna tuner from Monroe at P.O.
12 Oct. – Wed.
Check out with Kieta Customs for passage to Rabaul. Dinner with Art & Jean (“Scott Free”) at John & Shirley Mowatt’s house.
13 Oct. – Thurs.
Heavy rain in a.m. All fresh water tanks & jugs topped off. Winds light, variable & calm. Occasionally gusting NNW to NNE.
Gen. correspondence & writing.
14 Oct. – Fri.
0630 Prepare to get u/w. Eng. checks.
0710 Eng. on.
0715 u/w from Kieta Y.C. anchorage. Calm.
0743 W end of Arovo Is. ab’m stbd; o/c 275ºM. Under power @ 1500 RPM.
0823 Takanupe Is. ab’m stbd. o/c 300ºM. SMG = 5.9
0905 Abeam Mowen Sand Is. o/c 315ºM
1230 Breeze from NE.
1240 Up Maui jib; motorsail.
1345 Down jib.
1415 Anchored in 50’ at Uruai River mouth (W of Dambach Is.)
1430 Eng. secured.
15 Oct. – Sat.
0530 Prepare to get u/w, eng. checks.
0545 Eng. on.
0550 Anchor up; u/w to Buka Passage
0600 Brief grounding on umarked reef. Stbd. side scraped and sheared off into deeper water. No sign of damage.
0635 Toruta Is. ab’m port. o/c 325ºM @ 1500 RPM (calm).
0720 Land breeze from west.
0725 Up Maui jib; motorsail.
0935 Wind increase – 8-12 from S – eng. secured.
1030 Cape L’Averdy ab’m port; o/c 280ºM – wind SE @ 12-16 kts.
1040 Set mizz. drifter.
1155 Calm; down mizz. drifter
1200 Wind shift to W, motorsail off Raua Hbr. 1500 RPM.
1245 Jib up, wind ENE, course 290ºM
1320 Eng. secured; wind ENE – 14-18 kts.
1430 Enter Buka Passage approach, jibe. o/c 235ºM
1440 Headwind; down jib, eng. on. Enter Buka Passage.
1600 Anchored in 20’ NNE corner Ramun Bay, Buka Is. Eng. secured.
16 Oct. – Sun.
0900 Prepare to get u/w – eng. checks.
0905 Eng. on
0910 Anchor up, under way
0950 C. Lalahan ab’m stbd. o/c 282ºM
1000 N. breeze, up Maui jib, motorsail.
1045 Wind shift to NNW; down jib, o/c 345ºM toward Queen Carola Nbr.
1130 Up Maui jib; eng. secured.
1135 Up main.
1140 Up mizzen. Wind NNW @ 8-12 kts.
1230 Yame Is. ab’m stbd.
1343 SE tip of Pororan Is. ab’m stbd. SMG = 4.3
1405 Heavy rain squall – wind shift to S. All sails down. Drift mode o/c 330-340ºM. ~ Lightning!
1450 Squall passed; rain. Eng. on – motor toward north ent.
1600 Anchored in 25’ at N side of Kulu Is., Tanagole Bay, Queen Carola Hbr.
1630 Bilge pump (elec) line off – pump recirculating in sump. Secure circuit breaker.
1710 New hose and clamps on pump discharge.
17 Oct. – Mon.
Rain, overcast, light variable winds W, WSW, W, NW, and NNE.
Solder new coax connectors on ant. system. Re-route wire to port backstay chainplate. Reconnect bonding wire from steering to port mizz. shroud chainplate.
1600 Check bottom & rudder after Saturday’s grounding. Some scratches, no damage to rudder. Fathometer transducer housing slightly dented. Nothing major.
18 Oct. – Tues.
0630 Prepare to get u/w
0655 Eng. checks. Eng. on. *Crocodile sighted in vicinity!*
0705 u/w from Queen Carola Hbr.
0730 Transit N entrance; o/c 270ºM to New Ireland Is. Calm, motoring at 1500 RPM.
0800 Light NW breeze, up Maui jib, motorsail.
0820 Wind increase from NW (passing rain). Eng. secured.
0830 Wind to 18-20 kts. NNW. o/c 280ºM.
0920 Wind down to 12-14 kts; up main. o/c 280ºM. NNW wind.
0950 Wind NNW @ 10-14 kts. o/c 280ºM. Pleasant sailing.
1200 Calm. Drift mode.
1345 Continued calm. Motor on!! Down jib.
1745 Eng. secured; light wind from WSW. o/c 310ºM
Up Maui jib; S: 2.5 C – 310ºM
2300 Jib down; drift mode.
19 Oct. – Wed.
0000 Continue drift mode.
0050 Breeze from SW; up Maui jib.
0055 o/c 270ºM, S: 4.5 kts.
0140 Calm; down jib.
0145 Wind shift to NNW (very light breeze)
0200 Calm
0330 Up jib, wind WNW 8-12
0340 o/c 340ºM 3.5 kts.
0510 Onto stbd. tack, o/c 255ºM
0600 Wind shift, o/c 220ºM
0650 Onto port tack – o/c 305ºM
0830 Continue o/c 310ºM @ 2 kts.
1200 Gradual lifting[47] wind o/c 300ºM
1315 Continued lift; o/c 285ºM, 2-3 kts.
1520 Sun/moon fix: 4º 49.0S – 153º 30.7E
1615 Wind shift with passing squalls – NW 18-22 kts. o/c 245ºM
1630 Rain, variable winds
1710 Calm, rain, down jib; engine on, motor in calm.
o/c 260ºM @ 1500 RPM
2000 Wind SW @ 16-18, up Jib, eng. secured. o/c 275ºM 3-4 kts.
2015 Cape St. George Lt., New Ireland Is., in sight dead ahead
2030 Down all sails; eng. on to motor around Cape St. George; light wind, confused seas & current.
20 Oct. – Thurs.
0000 Continue motoring at 1500 RPM to pass Cape St. George. Calm.
0126 Satfix: 4º 57.1S – 152º 53.5E
0220 o/c 320ºM
1207 Cape Wanata Lt. (Cape Gazelle) ab’m port. SMG = 4.3.
1220 C. Gazelle Lt. ab’m port, o/c 280ºM, enter Blanche Bay.
1240 Up Maui jib; motorsail.
1245 Xfer remainder of fuel in aft tank to main tank.
1330 Wind shift to WNW with approaching squall, down jib. o/c 290ºM
1405 Wind shift to SW. Up jib.
1530 Down jib; enter Simpson Hbr.
1630 Anchored in 25’ at Rabaul Y.C. Eng. secured.
21 Oct. 1988 – Fri.
Check in with Rabaul Customs. Misc. errands.
22 Oct. – Sat.
Shopping, misc. errands.
23 Oct. – Sun.
Engine checks, clean bilge, check start batt. water. Remove sheared bolt on shaft flange; re-align shaft due to loosened mount bolts. Tighten packing ¼ turn.
24 Oct. – Mon.
Re-secure pulpit mountings on foredeck. General errands. Locate replacement bolts for shaft flange.
25 Oct. – Tues.
Replace bolts on shaft flange. P.m. – rain – top off fresh water tanks.
26 Oct. – Wed.
Rain all day, errands, correspondence.
27 Oct. – Thurs.
Begin work on FSM[48] courtesy flag.
28 Oct. – Fri.
Inspection of main & mizzen masthead fittings & standing rigging. Poss. crack in stbd. running backstay Norseman[49].
Continue work on FSM flag.
Arrange for replacing seal in raw water pump.
Y.C. BBQ – p.m.
29 Oct. – Sat.
Hangover… change out propane tank in deck box. 1 m.t./1 full
30 Oct. – Sun.
Build support chocks for propane bottles in deck locker. Add spacer block on outboard mount.
31 Oct. – Mon. – [smiling jack o’lantern]
Begin disassembly of raw water pump at Rabaul Eng. Seal appears okay but corrosion on bearing cover may be cause of leakage.
John Lochran, crew, ashore for return to Australia.
1 Nov. – Tues.
Heavy rain in a.m., repair & add chafe gear to inflatable. Laundry day.
2 Nov. – Wed.
Heavy rain & wind early a.m. (0330). Rain & drizzle all day. Run engine for exercise. Re-inflate repaired dinghy. Continue organizing papers & records in fwd. portside bridgedeck area.
2240 Return to boat to find forehatch broken into. Also tampering with companionway doors. Portable stereo stolen. No other items missing. Knife found on chart table.
3 Nov. – Thurs.
0600 Inspect damage from break-in. Fwd. hatch hinge pin used to pry companionway doors. Fwd. awning lines cut. Money on main cabin table taken (10K?). Backpack with money (40K?), knife, magic & misc. items missing.
0800 Scrub thru-hulls for head & cockpit drains, etc. w/l[50] too.
0900 Report breakin to Police; all report filled out with CID etc.
(p.m. dinner with Zeke & Karen of “Josephine”….)
1320 Eng. on; up anchor. Shift to new position within anchorage closer to other vessels & Y.C.
1345 Anchored in 35’; eng. secured.
4 Nov. – Fri.
Dis-assemble head & clean valves etc. Re-assemble, treat with “SeaLube”. General cleanup of head & sink.
Caulk bridgedeck face board to repair leak. Begin reinforcing inside hatch hasps for better security. Caulk around forehatch plexiglass.
5 Nov. – Sat.
1200 Eng. on; up anchor.
1215 Re-anchored in 35’ closer to Y.C. dock & other boats for better security.
All day gathering with Zeke, Karen, Ethan, parrot, Peter & Martha…
6 Nov. – Sun.
Rebuild pump section of head (one leather cup deteriorated). Reinforce latches on forehatch. Remove, caulk plates on backstay, cut 1/16” off plates and replace to prevent “short-out” with new antenna system. Replace and re-caulk. Re-lube turnbuckles with duck fat. Disconnect bonding wire from stbd. backstay leg. Re-organize lazarette – shift 45 & 20# CQR’s to stbd. side to correct for port list. Kalas & Peter out for dinner & Yahtzee game.
7 Nov. – Mon.
a.m. – correspondence; cleanup. Errands, laundry.
8 Nov. – Tues.
Measure for fwd. bookshelf.
Kalas aboard to assist. Re-design water catching awning system with new fittings and hoses. Insulate backstay legs from mizz. uppers[51].
9 Nov. – Wed.
a.m. Magic show for Internat. Pre-school with Dan and Peggy of “Osprey”.
Rain & wind (SW) – organize papers stowed in forepeak for future bookshelf. Stow sharts in muffler locker. Clear off midships pilot berth. Repair damaged screen on companionway door.
10 Nov. – Thurs.
Begin work on fwd. bookshelf. Cut bulkheads, but timber (1 pc. ½” marine ply given by Himson of “Quintana”). Cut cardboard patterns, etc. P.M. – magic show for afternoon pre-school class. Wind shift to S with passing showers.
11 Nov. – Fri.
Continue work on fwd. bookshelf. Shopping. Wind SSE. Dinner with Himson, Manson [Mensen - see below], Felix & Isadore.
12 Nov. – Sat.
Complete fwd. bookshelf. Wind SSE.
13 Nov. – Sun.
Wind shift to NNW, cloudy/rainy.
14 Nov. – Mon.
Organize fwd. cabin. Shift books to new shelf. Clear off stbd. berth; general cleanup. Laundry day. 1 propane tank filled: $K5.94.
15 Nov. – Tues.
Shopping; mount frames in main cabin.
16 Nov. – Wed.
Steady rain all day. Add bleach to port fresh water tank. Fill with rainwater. Begin building teak mounting box for replacement cassette player.
17 Nov. – Thurs.
Laundry day. Exercise engine (20 min.). Shopping, errands.
18 Nov. – Fri.
Complete installation of new cassette player/radio.
19 Nov. – Sat.
Shopping & gen. errands. Dinner aboard with Kalas, Peter, Isadore, Felix, Mensen.
20 Nov. – Sun.
Coffee with yachties aboard “Scott Free II”. Help Steve & Jan pull prop shaft & rudder using hookah rig from Art. All day project. Zeke and Dan working too!
21 Nov. – Mon.
Continue helping repair rudder on “Tranquilla”. Sand & file bushings and replace rudder & prop shaft.
22 Nov. – Tues.
Rest day – shopping.
23 Nov. – Wed.
24 Nov. – Thurs. – Turkey Day –
All Yank & other yachties meet at Y.C. for Thanksgiving potluck. Patty & P.J. of “Vallera Linda” arrive.
25 Nov. – Fri.
2 magic shows at schools – Sacred Heart primary, Rabaul and local primary at Karevat.
26 Nov. – Sat.
Magic show for children’s Christmas party at Yacht Club.
27 Nov. – Sun.
To church with Mensen. Help Steve & Jan with star sight lesson and fitting new tiller.
28 Nov. – Mon.
Top off kerosene and gasoline containers. Buy 4L engine oil (15-40W). Make appointment for fueling tomorrow @ 0800, Shell fuel pier. Buy canned and dry provisions (approx. $K100.00). Rain in a.m; overcast all day. Dinner with Cliff & sons p.m….
29 Nov. – Tues.
0700 Prepare to get u/w. Rig fenders & lines
0730 Eng. checks, eng. on.
048 u/w to Shell fuel pier.
0805 Take on diesel – 120L main tank; 230L aft tank. Overflow from main tank vent; small spill in cockpit. Buy 4L 15/40W eng. oil and 5L detergent/emulsifier for spill cleanup. Top off 1 propane tank.
0950 Eng. on
0955 u/w from fuel pier to anchorage.
1010 Anchored, same spot.
1015 Eng. secured.
Total fuel taken on: 350L @ f .2360 / L = K$82.60.
General provision shopping in p.m.
30 Nov. – Wed.
Preparations for departure. General errands around town. Checkout with Customs and Imm. Magic show for Catholic primary school at Rakunai.
1 Dec. – Thurs.
Prepare to get u/w. General tie down on deck. Stow Puddle Shuttle and rig life raft kit.
0800 Eng. checks.
0855 Eng. on.
0915 Anchor up & stowed; u/w from Simpson Hbr., Rabaul, for Pohnpei, FSM.
1015 McKenzie Shoal ab’m port. Light breeze ENE.
Continue motoring @ 1500 RPM.
1030 Up Maui jib; motorsail.
1130 Wind shift to E; down jib.
1226 C. Gazelle ab’m stbd.
1340 C. Wanata ab’m stbd. Wind shift to SE!
1250 Eng. secured; up main, Maui jib & mizzen. o/c 190ºM. “Tranquilla” with Steve & “Jam” ½ mile ahead.
1315 Gradual wind shift to ESE, o/c 180-190ºM. S: 4.0.
1615 Wind drop to calm, airlock on eng. Bleed lines.
1635 Eng. on, motor toward Put Put Hbr. Lt. breeze from W! Motorsail (?)
1715 Down sails.
1725 u/w to hbr. ent.
1750 Anchored in 35’ Put Put Hbr (Rügen). Eng. secured. Rain throughout the night.
2 Dec. – Fri.
Anchored in Put Put Hbr. Calm; overcast & drizzle.
0830 Show ship’s papers and port clearance to Mr. John, local police officer.
Dismantle and lubricate Aries wheel drum. Change cracked shackle on steering line.
Magic show in Put Put Village. Big crowd!
3 Dec. – Sat.
General cleanup of head and main cabin. Lubricate steering gear & Aries. Rig Aries steering lines. Fabricate tiedown bungee for steering box cushion.
4 Dec. – Sun.
0630 Prepare to get u/w
0700 Eng. checks.
0705 Eng. on.
0720 Anchor up & stowed. u/w from Put Put Hbr.
0730 Pt. of Departure @ hbr. ent., o/c 100ºM
0810 Up main & Maui jib. Light breeze NNE.
0815 Eng. secured.
0845 Down main; breeze very light from N.
0900 Up mizzen drifter.
0915 Calm. Down mizz. drifter.
0920 Engine on. Airlock – bleed.
0935 Eng. on. u/w in calm at 1500 RPM. Down jib. o/c 100ºM
1340 Lamassa Is. ab’m stbd.
1345 Enter Lak-Lak Bay. Depth: 50-60’, steep drop off with small beach.
1350 u/w to Sulphur Bay (E of Pt. Sulphur) via Lamassa Bay.
1420 Enter Sulphur Bay
1435 Anchor in 25’ – 125’ out – bottom possibly coral. Dragging.
1445 Up anchor; u/w to cove between Sulphur Pt. and Cape Waum.
1500 Wind from NW! – Anchorage good but exposed (20-30’ sand with isolated coral heads to S.)
1510 u/w to Breton Harbor
1525 Up Maui jib; motorsail
1600 Enter Breton Hbr. Down jib.
1620 Anchored in 25’, Irish Cove.
5 Dec. – Mon.
1050 Eng. on; prepare to shift to English Cove.
1105 u/w to English Cove.
1130 Anchored in 25’.
1140 Anchor up. u/w back to Irish Cove; too exposed to W. wind.
1150 Anchored in 35’, Irish Cove.
1230 Laundry in fresh water spring ashore.
1330 Heavy rain; gusty W wind.
1600 Rain & drizzle all afternoon. Clean stbd. galley locker (above ice box). Restow with non-edible galley items.
1630 Increasing gusty@ winds. Increase scope to 250’. Stow dinghy on deck & tie down.
7 Dec. – Wed.
0030 Wind shift (180º!) to E and ENE. Mild gusts. Barometer steady.
1000 Repair all luff grommets on working jib (hand stitch).
1235 Prepare to shift to English Cove anchorage.
1240 Eng. on.
1250 Anchor up; u/w to English Cove with 4 PNG crew & 3 canoes towing astern.
1310 Anchored in 25’, English Cove.
1330 Explore fresh water stream – Bath time!
8 Dec. – Thurs.
0800 Breeze from WSW! Prepare to get u/w.
Stow dinghy, downwind pole; general tiedown for sea.
1030 Eng. checks.
1045 Eng. on.
1055 u/w from English Cove
1130 Maui jibup.
1205 Tack –wind from NE at C. St. George. Return to anch. to await favorable wind.
1315 Anchored in 35’, English Cove.
1330 3 canoes alongside to trade/sell vegs. 6-8 people aboard to see Rhysling.
1500 Bath time in fresh water stream with Gabba & August
What a day!… It was the big push to prepare for sea. Wind seemed to be filling in from WNW, in spite of lower clouds moving from NE (I had doubts about this…). Really prepared for the passage and u/w before noon. Motored thru “inside passage” toward C. St. George. Already noticed weird wind but figured it was due to leeward effect of Lambon Is. Sure enough, though, the wind was strong from the NE as I approached the Cape, heavy swells & whitecaps seen off the point. Did not hesitate to turn around & return to anchorage. Not worth it to beat my brains out when it will turn more favorable in a day or two. Besides, I was invited to the big village “sing sing” tomorrow!
Things always happen for a reason…
9 Dec. – Fri.
Rig temporary outboard bracket on Puddle Shuttle.
1100 Off to Lambon Village for “Sing Sing”
1630 Return to anchorage to find P.J. and Patty on “Vallera Linda” anchored nearby.
To say the least, the Sing Sing was an event not to be missed! I’ve never seen anything quite so bizarre or unusual. It was a celebration to close the local school for the holidays. Everyone contributed food, some of which could be purchased with donations going to the school. Most of the things were leaf-wrapped bundles baked in ground ovens. People from neighboring villages came and their canoes lined the shore. Individual families laid out their mats picnic-style and chowed down. I was invited to join Phineas’s family and enjoyed chicken & rice & taro.
From far in the bush, a din of beating drums could be heard, and it gradually drew closer. A group of boys walked almost solemnly in a slow procession beating long bamboo pipes and drums covered with lizard skins. Behind them waked the dancers – 10 in all – dressed in frizzy green leaves with their bodies completely colored in a yellow-green powder. Their heads and hips were entirely hidden by the green leaves. Each held a delicate stick in each hand with colored bird feathers at the tips. Towering over their heads were tall sticks decorated with little bunches of bird feathers.
They reached a central area where the drummers sat down and the dancers jumped, squatted and hopped in tune to the beat. At times they made aggressive gestures – possibly simulating battle or hunting experiences. The dance seemed rather repetitious and must have been very tiring. They were escorted by a leader and 2 or 3 elders who chewed betel nut and occasionally sprayed the red mist toward the dancers.
When they finished they were followed by 2 groups of school children – the boys dressed in similar, but not as elaborate costumes, and another group of girls. The girls wore lap-laps[52] with crowns of colored feathers in their hair. They held bunches of leaves in each hand, and chanted in a more reserved manner than the boys.
Several other groups followed – each with new people and costumes. As each “danced”, people would come up and stuff leaves in their belts or slap powdered lime on their backs. This was a gesture to compliment a particular dancer on his style.
I shot nearly a whole roll of film – such a colorful and unique spectacle I’ve never seen!
10 Dec. – Sat.
Insulate mizz. topping lift (up mast with help from P.J.). Run coax to ant. tuner for “new” antenna. Will test tonight.
Run outboard in fresh water to flush out for stowage.
11 Dec. – Sun.
Picnic & swim up river. Wind still NE.
Wind continued NE. Turning N in p.m. Will depart tomorrow. Waterproof antenna connection
13 Dec. – Tues.
Wind NNW – prepare to get u/w. Top off all water juts at river. Rig & stow for sea.
0900 Eng. checks.
0950 Eng. on.
1000 Anchor up; u/w from Eng. Cove.
1015 Maui jib up.
1020 Eng. secured. Wind WNW @ 16-18!
1145 Cape St. George ab’m port; jibe.
1150 Near calm. Confused, lumpy seas off Cape. Wind(?) shift to NE!
1155 Continued strange seas. Wind shift to SE… o/c 180ºM[53]
1210 Wind filling in from ENE L. Up main.
1215 o/c 150ºM… 3.4 kts.
1245 Wind NE at 12-16 kts. Delightful sailing but unable to make rhumbline… 120ºM-150ºM… Lingering swell from NW is giving us a push, too.
1320 Calm – slatting sails, lumpy seas.
1335 Light NE breeze; o/c 120ºM – 3.5 kts.
1455 Wind increase – ENE – 12-14 kts. Good sailing. o/c 130ºM
1650 Wind drop to ENE – 2-4 kts. S: 2(?).
1700 Tack – o/c 350ºM L. Very light breeze. Swell and dark clouds from NW so possibly in for a change…
1715 Calm – slatting sails…
1915 Wind from WNW in front t of building dark clouds. Down main.
1925 Calm, dark clouds still looming but moving slowly.
1945 Wind from SW with approaching rain. o/c 045ºM – S: 4-5. Delightful following wind. Don’t know how long it will last, though…
2330 Wind drop – near calm. It was good while it lasted…
14 Dec. – Wed.
0000 Continued near calm. Drifting o/c 060ºM, 1 kt.(?)
0130 Drifting o/c 060ºM. 1 kt.
0550 Morning greetings by circling herd of Stenella. Lots of porpoising; then off to the NW.
Very light NNE breeze; ghosting along at perhaps 1 kt. New Ireland still in sight ab’m portside. But we have made progress through the night.
0700 2100Z position report to Tony’s Net: 4º 52’S – 153º 26’E. C-080ºT S-2 kts., wind NNE 4 kts., cloud 80% (high), 1007mb steady.
0750 Wind filling in from NNE, up main, o/c 070ºM. S: 3.5
0850 Filling in nicely from N… o/c 050-060ºM – delightful sailing. S: 3.5. Install tiedown eye on anchor chock for securing stock & shank of CQR.
1000 Wind dropping and shifting more E of N. o/c 110-120 L.
1045 Contact with Greek freighter bound from Japan & Australia to Pakistan with load of coal. Officer reports fine wx to N & S.
1130 Breeze gradually veering toward east; tack – o/c 000ºM. S: 2-3. Fabricate extra sail ties from webbing material.
1200 Wind from E! o/c 015ºM. 3.5 kts.
1300 Wind ENE – 10-12 – o/c 350ºM; Feni Is. in sight on stbd. bow.
1440 Wind shift to N… Tack.
1445 o/c 090ºM, S: 4.
1700 Continued NNE wind – o/c 090ºM @ 4 kts.
1830 Tack – o/c 000ºM – S: 4.
1930 Wind shift N – with approaching squalls – wind to 18 kts. o/c 060ºM! J
2000 Wind shift o/c 090º-110ºM L
2030 Calm! Lingering swell from NNW – perhaps a change is in store… slatting sails.
2100 Down jib.
2120 Down main; Drift & rock ‘n roll mode.
2200 Up jib, wind NNW – heavy rain – no vis. o/c 100ºM 4 kts.
2212 Satfix: 4º 44.9S – 153º 57.0E
2240 Squall passed, wind drop; drizzle.
2250 Calm. More squalls on horizon.
2310 Another big black mother approaching – o/c 070ºM. 4.5 kts.
15 Dec. – Thurs.
0010 Squall with thunder & ï~ð passed. Calm. Looks like another will soon follow…
0045 Continued calm.
0130 Wind filling in from NW; o/c 070ºM @ 4 kts. Wonderful sailing, but huge dark mass of clouds ahead obscures horizon. Very dark night. Maintain lookout for Green Island.
0300 continue o/c 070ºM, 4-5 kts.
0500 Dawn – Green Island ab’m port side; o/c 060ºM @ 4 kts.
0600 DR: 4º 41.7S – 154º 21.9E. o/c 060ºM. 5 kts.
Wind WNW 18 kts. Seas 6’.
0700 Position report 2100Z: 4º 40’S – 154º 29’E. C-065ºT S: 5.5
Wind: WNW, 18 kts. Swell 1½ - 2 meters, cloud 90%, Baro: 1006↑
0800 Wind increase – 20-25 kts. –down Maui jib; up working jib.
0840 Resume C-060ºM S: 4. A little slower but less strain on rig, sails, & nerves…
1308 Satfix: 4º 27.7S – 154º 58.8E. SMG = 4.6.
1350 Wind dropping to 14-16 kts. Down working jib; up #2 jib.
1415 Resume course 060ºM, S: 4.5.
1630 Lube steering & Aries.
1744 Satfix: 4º 18.5S – 155º 22.2E. SMG = 5.5
1820 SatNav secured.
2000 Wind down to 12-14 – seas flat – wonderful sailing – o/c 060ºM – S: 4.
2300 Wind increasing to 16-18. Seas still relatively flat. o/c 060ºM – S: 4.5-5.
0200 Wind down to 12-16 WNW, seas moderate. o/c 060º - S: 4.5.
0600 Wind steady at 12-16 WNW – moderate seas. It’s been a wonderful night of steady sailing. Hope it continues…
0700 (2100Z position report) DR: 3º 57’S – 156º 18’E. C-070ºT, S: 4.5, wind WNW 12-14, swell 1m, cloud 100%, baro: 1005↔
0955 Wind down to 12-14, up main.
1129 Noon lat: 3º 36.7S
1130 R. Fix: 3º 36.7S – 156º 48.3E
1350 SatNav on for position check
1515 Wind & seas increasing slightly (14-18 kts.)
1630 Passing shower; wind decrease.
1635 Wind back up to 14-18. Numerous rain cells in area.
1700 Continuing o/c 050-060ºM, 4.5-5 kts. Wind up and down with passing showers.
Increased pain in middle of back due to some sort of boil. At first seemed like a pimple, but it’s inflamed and the size of a quarter. Tried looking at it in mirror, but difficult as it’s right in the center at my vertebrae. Tried squeezing it and got some pus out, but not much. Really painful to lie on it so sleep & sit on my side. If inflammation doesn’t go down in a day or so, may try some antibiotic tabs…
1900 Near calm – 1-2 kt. breeze & swell from WNW…
More oozing from back boil – pretty painful. May take aspirin if it keeps up…
1930 Wind up to 8-10 – WNW. Lightning in nearby showers.
2004 Satfix: 3º 16.9S – 157º 30.7E. SMG past 24 hrs: 5.4.
2045 Wind shift to N!
2100 Single reef in main; sheet in to close hauled in order to steer 060ºM.
2140 Heavy, short squall with wind from W.
2150 Wind light but back to WNW… drizzle.
SatNav secured.
2200 Wind filling in from WNW – S: 4.5 kts.
2215 Very large black cloud front on horizon astern; looks like it will overtake us…
2235 Down main, just in case.
2245 It’s a hummer! 35-40 kts. with driving rain out of the W – hand steer – sleigh ride with #2 jib only.
2310 Squall passed; rain & WNW wind 10-15. o/c 050ºM. S: 4.
17 Dec. – Sat.
0000 Continued rain. Wind 12014 WNW up & down with passing showers.
0200 Near calm. Jib slatting. Drizzle. Sore back…
Who could want more?…
0330 Continued calm, drizzle. Frustrating & nerve wracking.
0530 Light breeze from N. Up main. Overcast, gray day.
0545 o/c 070ºM, 4 kts. Wind: N 10-12.
0610 Wind veering to NE 10-15. o/c 090ºM. S: 4.5.
0630 Wind continuing to veer. o/c 100ºM. S: 4.
0700 2100Z position report: 3º 07’S – 157º 58’E – C-100ºT S 4.0 Wind NE 8-10. Swell NE 1m, cloud 100%, baro: 1008↑.
(No report given to Tony’s Net due to poor atmos. conditions). Contact with P.J. on 40m[54].
0800 Wind continuing to veer E. o/c 120ºM… may tack soon. Yes, why not. Onto stbd. tack with main & #2 jib closehauled. o/c 000ºM. S: 4.
0900 Looks like clear skies ahead (very black astern, but we should be going away from it). Wind tending more easterly allows us to steer up to 020ºM at times, but averaging 000ºM. S: 4.
1000 Without trying too hard we’re making good 020ºM. Wind E to ENE 12-14. Pleasant sailing to windward.
The boil on my back seems to be improving. Very painful thru the night and oozed lots of pus, but now it’s down to a dull pain and soreness. Still hurts to rest against it, though.
1045 Wind drop – 2-4 kts. L…
1120 Noon lat: 3º 03.0’S
1140 Down #2 jib; up large jib. Very light ENE breeze.
1150 o/c 030ºM
1230 Calm. Down lg. jib due to excess slatting & chafe. Bend on #2 jib. Poss. squalls approaching from astern.
1245 Eng. checks.
1250 eng. on – motor in clam – exercise eng. & chg. batts.
1340 Wind from SSE with approaching squall. Eng. secured. Up #2 jib. o/c 020ºM.
1400 Wind dropping to 2-4 kts. o/c 050ºM – S 1-2 kts.
1430 R. Fix ¤ = 2º 57.3’S – 158º 22.0’E
1600 Calm. Down jib. Swim call – bath time!
1745 Comms. with P.J. on 40m. Reports there is wind further to north. Patty suggests using hot compresses on boil. Will do.
1845 Will motor for a while in calm. Eng. on.
1850 u/w @ 1500 RPM. o/c 045ºM.
2345 Eng. secured. Large black clouds ahead & astern. Should get a push soon.
2350 Up #2 jib.
18 Dec. – Sun.
0014 Wind from SSW with approaching squall. Very black astern. o/c 030ºM.
0100 Winds to 25 kts. in squall – downwind sleigh ride. o/c 045ºM – 5-6 kts. Heavy rain.
0140 Squall passed. Continued rain and SSW wind – o/c 050ºM – 4 kts.
0210 Calm, rain with confused seas. Rock & roll.
0230 Breeze from ENE – drizzle – set jib & Aries for C 000ºM. S: 3.
0300 Calm – flogging jib – down jib – drift mode.
0535 Breeze from NE (heavy dark front in that direction). Set single reefed main and #2 jib.
0600 o/c 340ºM – best we can do close hauled. S: 4.
0700 (2100Z) position report (not given [to Tony’s net]): 2º 30’S – 158º 45’E; C-340ºM; S: 4.3; Wind NE @ 4-8 kts; swell NE 1.6m; cloud 100%; baro 1008→
0715 Calm – slatting sails…
0800 Breeze from NE. Up full main. o/c 340ºM
0810 Calm – slatting sails. Lube steering and Aries. Tighten bolts on rudder post bearing.
0905 Eng. checks.
0910 u/w @ 1500 RPM to get thru calm?! o/c 045ºM.
0915 SatNav on.
1350 Satfix: 2º 22.3S – 158º 53.7[E]
1520 Very large black cloud formation approaching slowly from astern. Down main.
1540 Up #2 jib. Eng. sec[ured].
1545 False alarm! Other than some initial 15 kt. gusts it’s just a passing drizzle with 9-10 kt. winds – but we’re off the wind so it’s decent sailing for as long as it lasts. o/c 040ºM – 3.5 kts.
1615 Near calm.
1630 Calm – sail slatting- drift mode. More rain clouds on horizon all around…
1730 Breeze from E! Is this, could this be what I’ve been looking for? 0/c 040ºM, 2-3 kts.
More hot compresses to back boil, but still very painful – about the size of a half dollar & looks like a volcano, stands ¼ inch high. Really sore. Taking 2 aspirin every 4 hours – seems to help a bit…
1745 Comms. with P.J. on “Vallera Linda” & Ed on “Oriana”. Zeke & Karen of “Josephine III” arrived today in Pohnpei (13 days).
1830 Continued light breeze from E. Up main.
1900 Calm – no swell – slatting sails –
Here we go again…
Eng. checks.
1910 u/w @ 1500 RPM o/c 040ºM, motoring in calm.
1916 Satfix: 2º 12.0S – 159º 02.3E
2050 Breeze from E. Eng. secured. Up jib.
2100 o/c 000ºM – wind ENE 10-15. S: 4. Finally some good sailing…
2100 Satfix: 2º 06.5S – 159º 08.1E
SatNav secured.
2300 Continue o/c 0000ºM [sic].
19 Dec. – Mon.
0000 On course 000ºM with main & #2 jib. Wind ENE 8-10. S: 4.
0400 o/c 000ºM – S: 4.
0530 Wind increasing to 14-18 kts. o/c 000ºM – S: 4.5. Terrific sailing!
0600 Wind dropping to 4-6 kts. Some slatting in bouncy chop… still moving, though…
0610 Near calm L
0615 Xfer fuel from aft tank to main tank.
0700 Lt. breeze from ENE. o/c 000ºM – 2 kts.
2100Z position report: 1º 25’S – 159º 14’E; C-010ºT; S: 3; Wind ENE 4-6; swell NE 1.0m; cloud 90%; baro: 1009→
0720 Wind up & down – near calm to 4-6 kts. o/c 000ºM when possible. S: 2-3 kts.
0745 Near calm; passing showers.
0755 Wind again – ENE 8-10. Was very close to lighting off the engine… looks like it may hold up for a while this time. Perhaps those were just some “holes” caused by the showers passing nearby… o/c 000ºM – 3.5 kts.
0915 Windshift to N! (Squall ahead). Tack.
0925 Wind from NW with approaching squall – o/c 030º-050ºM
1000 A big hole behind that one – calm now. As it passed we had 18-20 kts. with driving rain from the NW! Great shower/bath.
1005 Confused, weird sloppy chop. No wind. May motor ‘til it fills in again…
1015 Nevermind – wind up from ENE – tack. o/c 340-350ºM; 4 kts. Wind 14-16. Lumpy sea. Light shower.
1025 Wind veering more to E. o/c 000º-010ºM. S: 4.5.
1130 At last we’re sailing in some decent conditions. Wind ENE 16-18. o/c 000ºM. S: 4.5.
1145 SatNav on.
1300 Wind has settled in at ENE about 18 kts; moderate swell. o/c 000ºM. S: 4.
1326 SatFix: 00º 48.4S – 159º 10.4E. SMG since 2100 yesterday: 4.8.
1600 Wind 18-22 kts. Single reef in main to ease motion. Seas – 2m.
1800 Poor comms. with P.J. on 40m. Will try again in a.m. They’re 160 miles out of Pohnpei.
1900 The back boil is still very painful. Definitely no better; hopefully not worse. Pain & soreness moving out toward my right side, nearly to the ribs. Applied 3 hot compresses tonight also taking aspirin. Hurts to lie on back or make strenuous moves. Even my shirt rubbing on it is painful. Looks pretty ugly, too!
2206 SatFix: 00º 04.4N – 159º 16.5E. SMG = 6.1!
2100 (approx) – Transit equator – realm of King Neptunus Rex
20 Dec. – Tues.
0000 Continue o/c 000ºM – 5-6 kts. with #2 jib & single reefed main. Wind ENE 16-20 kts.
0116 [SatFix]: 00º 23.9N – 159º 18.0E. SMG = 6.2! J
0300 Continue o/c 000ºM – S: 6.
0700 2100Z position report: 00º 58’N – 159º 23’E; C-010ºT; S: 6; wind ENE 18-20; swell ENE 1.2m; cloud 80%; baro 1009→
Good comms. with P.J. on 40m. Nothing on Tony’s net…
0715 Begin taking antibiotics (orally) – Dynaben 4x daily – for back boil. Very painful throughout the night. Pain moving outward. Poss. lump & pain under left armpit (although don’t know if it’s related…). P.J. & Patty suggest I start on antibiotics.
0644 SatFix: 00º 58.0N – 159º 21.9E. SMG = 6.2.
At current speed ETA Pohnpei: 2.5 days…
0845 SatNav secured.
1015 Wind dropping L - 14-16 kts…
1050 Shake out reef; up full main. o/c 000º; S: 5 (?)
1100 Lube steering and Aries.
1200 Seas flattening out with wind steady at 14-16 kts. Bright sunshine – splendid sailing! S: 5.0.
DR: 1º 24’N – 159º 27’E
1300 Wind down to 10-14 kts. S: 4(?)
1515 Wind increasing 14-16…
1700 Wind back down to 12-14.
2000 Moving along slowly at about 3 kts.
2300 Near calm.
21 Dec. –Wed. - Winter Solstice ☼
0000 Ghosting along o/c 000ºM – 2-3 kts.
0130 Near calm. Sails slatting occasionally. The pain in my back is nearly unbearable. Feels like a hot arrow is stuck in my back. May get out some pain killers soon as the aspirin doesn’t help much. How much longer will this go on?! Hardly keeping watch now. Just lying on my stomach trying not to move.
0230 Ghosting along at 2-3 kts. Sometimes sails slatting.
0451 4 star fix: 2º 48.8N – 159º 13.5E
0620 ¤ LOP confirms we’ve been set[55] considerably to W. Should be offset by the equatorial counter-current pretty soon, though…
0700 2100Z position report: 3º 05’N – 159º 15’E; C 010ºT; S: 4; wind ENE 10-14; swell ENE .5m; cloud: 10%; baro 1009→
0800 Begin on Amoxicillin and Tylenol 3 to combat spreading infection and pain on back boil. It appears larger with swelling in lower back and deeper pain in surrounding muscles. Still oozing pussyblood (don’t think the spelling of that one was right, but it sure got me laughing!) (pus and blood)
0845 Wind increasing slightly – 14-16 ENE. S: 4.5-5.
1030 Wind drop- 2-4 kts. – hopefully only temporary as a swell still exists.
1100 Back extremely painful now, even with the Tylenol 3. 3 more hours ‘til I can take another… Constant pain no matter what position I’m in.
1120 ¤ Noon lat: 3º 18.1’N
140 Wind mostly light all day so far. Sails slatting occasionally. Speed averaging 2-3 kts. Rested on stomach 3 hours to ease pain, but it’s back again as soon as I got up. Any flexing of the back muscles causes it…
1440 Approaching squall – wind! (and rain).
1450 Wind shifted to SE for 5 min. Now calm, confused seas. Think I’ll motor for a while…
1515 u/w @ 1500 RPM – calm conditions. Motorsailing(?).
1535 Passing shower, some wind from E.
1600 Down jib.
1630 Up jib; eng. secured. Lt. breeze from ESE! o/c 010ºM. S: 3-4.
1700 Wind continuing from ESE – 10-15. o/c 000ºM – S: 4.
Back very painful. Swelling around infection is about the size of the palm of my hand… Very warm & sensitive to the touch. Happened to hit the boom while ducking under and it bled quite a bit with additional pus. Also some clotted blood and black scab tissue came out… Wish I could see it, but it’s right in the middle of my back. Mirror & feel are the only way…
1800 Wind light & shifty tending to ESE.
1920 Wind shifting back to E. 8-10 kts. – S: 3.
1940 Wind shift to SE. Nearly calm. This is getting ridiculous…
Eng. checks.
1955 u/w $ 1500 RPM – motorsail in calm & var. lt. breezes.
2110 Eng. secured. Breeze from ENE – o/c 000ºM, S: 4.
2300 This pain is nearly intolerable. Wish the aspirin & Tylenol could stop it…
22 Dec. – Thurs.
0000 Continuing o/c 000ºM – S: 3 kts. Light ENE wind. Sailing under main & #2 jib..
0330 Believe it or not, the pain has gone down a bit – it’s still constant, but more dull rather than piercing. Swelling may have gone down a bit too. I’ve been urinating more than usual thru the night, perhaps as result of the antibiotics(?). Let’s hope it keeps improving…
0500 Morning star fix: 4º 16.9N – 159º 14.4E
0700 2100Z position report: 4º 20’N – 159º 15’E; C-000ºT; S: 3.5; wind E – 8-12 kts; swell E - .5m; cloud 10%, baro: 1009→
1000 continued light E wind – o/c 350ºM – S: 3.5. Down #2 jib; up Maui jib.
1030 Wind increasing to 12-16. Lovely sailing if it keeps up… S: 4.
1122 Noon lat: 5º 01.4N
1130 Still moving along nicely at about 4 – 4.5 kts. Noon lat. shows us further north than DR so we made better speed thru the night than I thought. Back is still sore & swollen but not as painful as past two days. J
1215 Passing shower – near calm.
1220 Wind again – ENE @ 14-16…
1330 Moving along nicely now. o/c 030-040ºM. S: 5. Wind ENE 16-18.
1500 Still moving along well although wind seems to be decreasing a bit…
1800 Near calm, bare steerage.
1825 SatNav on – Eng. checks.
1830 Eng. on – motor in calm – o/c 330ºM @ 1500 RPM.
2244 SatFix: 6º 02.4N – 159º 16.3E
23 Dec. – Fri.
0000 Motorsailing @ 1500 RPM – SMG = 6.0
0315 Down main – black squalls all around.
0500 Flat glassy calm. Down jib. Rolling in swell.
0520 Pohnpei in sight dead ahead. o/c 310ºM. S: 4.5.
0540 Wind from NE. Up jib & main.
0930 Various courses to follow reef to Kolonia and Sokes Entrance. Continuing to motorsail with light NE winds. Important to reach Kolonia for Customs & Imm. clearance this afternoon as it’s the start of a 3-day weekend…
1208 Down main.
1215 Down jib. u/w to pass.
1300 Transit Sokes Pass; enter Pohnpei Harbor. Rain squalls astern…
1315 Moored portside to main wharf, Kolonia.
Cleared by Health & Customs
1345-
1445 Advance ship’s clocks 1 hr. to conform with -11 time zone.
1500 Cleared by Immigration.
1535 u/w from wharf to yacht anchorage at S end of bay.
1545 Aground on reef midway to anchorage. Put out bower anchor and 100’ chain to kedge off. Deeper water ahead. No luck. Hard aground on stern. Terry & wife come in dinghy to help[56]. Up main, mizzen & Maui jib to heel boat more. No luck. Buzz and friends come to help. with Yamaha boat towing & all sails up and engine full ahead she pulls off! A gust of wind came just when we needed it. Buzz guides me to the anchorage.
1728 Anchored in 33’ Pohnpei inner harbor. Visit P.J. & Patti on “Vallera Linda” who say (along with all the others) that I should go to hospital immediately about my back infection. Buzz drives me there. It is an abscess. Doctor says coral infection, but haven’t been near any for a long time… They dress it and give me antibiotic tabs (Declex?) & aspirin. Patty offers to change dressings for me daily if needed. Martha & Peter boat-sit for me while I’m gone. Gosh, everyone has been so wonderful! Buzz shares dinner with me at his home before returning me to Rhysling.
2150 At last I can go to sleep on my stomach and sleep thru the whole night…
24 Dec. – Sat.
0730 Back is sore & swollen, but hopefully improving… General tidy up about the boat. Rain on & off all day.
1530 Dressing changed by Patty on “Vallera Linda”
25 Dec. – Sun. [Christmas tree]
Merry Christmas! Rain all day – heavy at times. Rest back. Still very sore and swollen, but no worse…
1340 Heavy rain; all fresh water tanks topped off.
1400 Zeke, Karen & Ethan (“Josephine III”); Peter & Martha (“Evasion”) aboard with turkey & all the trimmings for bit Christmas dinner. Rain throughout day & night.
26 Dec. – Mon.
Rain again on & off all day. Back abscess seems more swollen, but not too sore. Cleaned and dressed by Patty. Appears to be swelling more, so will go back to hospital tomorrow to have it checked.
27 Dec. – Tues.
0530 Rain.
1130 After a 4 hr. wait at the outpatient clinic, Pohnpei Hospital, a doctor finally looked at my back. Said it was a feruncle – a complex boil. Only way to take care of it was by surgery – cut & drain it. Anesthetics couldn’t numb it, so just toughed it out as he cut, sliced, poked & squeezed. Said he got ½ cup of pus out of it. Hurt like hell! Had me double up on antibiotics and supposed to soak on hot water 4 times/day.
Zeke & Karen loan me baby bath to soak in.
28 Dec. – Wed.
1000 To hospital for more antibiotics.
Bank – xfer $500.00 VISA @ Bank of Guam. Open savings acct. @ B of H - $2000.00.
P.O. – Apply for P.O. 2 weeks ‘til box available. No mail from Mom or Cisco…
To Harbormaster to fill out paperwork on boat as requested.
Continue soaking & treating back.
29 Dec. – Thurs.
General correspondence. Soak & treat back. Visit with Withnel & Boya at Kapinga Village. Shopping.
30 Dec. – Fri.
Doctor appointment – feruncle is draining & healing well. Supposed to soak twice daily now & use hydrogen peroxide with bandage to keep scab from forming. Still on antibiotics – 2 tabs Dicloxocillin 4x day. Pizza dinner with Peter & Martha on “Evasion”. Rain all day.
31 Dec. – Sat. [firecrackers] New Year’s Eve…
Sunny morning – laundry.
1 Jan. 1989 – Sunday - Happy New Year!
Rain all day. Top off all fresh water General correspondence.
2 Jan. – Mon.
Laundry & errands.
3 Jan. – Tues.
Errands, P.O., etc.
4 Jan – Wed.
Gen. correspondence. Sokes Rock expedition with Peter & Martha & 5 kids.
5 Jan – Thurs.
Gen. cleanup in eng. comp[artment]; tighten loose fuel return line. Exercise engine. Ice run. Magic show in Porakiet Village for New Years’ celebration.
6 Jan – Fri.
Correspondence, errands; p.m. – doctor appointment to check back infection.
7 Jan. – Sat.
Going away party for Buzz at Matt’s house. Rain most of the day.
8 Jan. – Mon.
1000 Doctor appointment.
Errands, etc. Overseas phone call to Rel[57] to check on Mom. All okay.
10 Jan. – Tues.
Errands & correspondence. Brilliant day!
11 Jan. – Wed.
Rain all day- correspondence & writing. Errands p.m.
12 Jan – Thurs.
Mostly rain. Top off all fresh water tanks & jugs. Prepare meal for Mauame family… some writing.
13 Jan – Fri.
0930 Dr. appointment at hospital to check back. All okay.
14 Jan. – Sat.
Errands. Goodbyes to Zeke & Karen on “Josephine III”
15 Jan. – Sun.
a.m. Church with Paul & family from Sokehs.
p.m. Hike up to Sokehs ridge to explore Japanese ruins and guns, etc.
16 Jan. – Mon.
Errands; correspondence.
p.m. Help German vessel “Meermaid” off reef (same one I hit!).
17 Jan. – Tues.
a.m. Doctor appt. at hospital.
p.m. Eng. checks; exercise & chg. batts. (15-20 min.). Clean cockpit sole.
18 Jan. – Wed.
Pack up raw water pump parts to send to Spectrum Engineering for rebuild. Clean & lube sextant, remove batts. Rain most of day.
19 Jan. – Thurs.
Correspondence. Laundry.
p.m. Assist Swedish boat stuck on reef. Will await next high tide to get off.
20 Jan. – Fri.
Rain all day. Correspondence.
21 Jan. – Sat.
General errands.
22 Jan. – Sun.
a.m. Change out propane tank. On hand: 3 full/ 1 m.t.
Visitors on & off all day… gift of parrot from Paul.
23 Jan – Mon.
One month today in Pohnpei. To Immigration for renewal on p.p.[58] Shopping & errands. p.p good to 21 Feb.
24 Jan. – Tues.
Laundry day.
25 Jan. – Wed.
Errands –visit to Kamar River for swim & wash.
26 Jan. – Thurs.
Correspondence. Eng. checks; exercise & chg. batts.
27 Jan. – Fri.
a.m. Peter & Martha of “Evasion” depart for Guam via Ant & other stops.
Shopping & errands. Permission from Ester(?) via Rosa to go to Ant Atoll for up to a week.
p.m. Laundry; prep. to get u/w
28 Jan. – Sat.
0630 Preps. for getting u/w
0800 Shorten & scrub anchor rode.
0810 Eng. on.
0830 Anchor up; u/w to Ant Atoll
0905 Up Maui jib.
0910 Transit pass (Sokehs)
0915 Eng. secured. Wind 20-22 NNE. Delightful sailing!
1035 WNW reef ab’m port, o/c 195ºM
1135 Wind down to 14-18, up mizz. drifter.
1335 Eng. on.
1340 Transit pass, Ant [Atoll]
1345 Up mizzen.
1355 Squall. Jib blown out.
1400 Down jib & mizz; motor to anch.
1445 Anchored in 35’ at Nikalap Aru Is.; Ant Atoll
Eng. secured.
29 Jan. –Sun.
Correspondence. p.m. – wind ENE 18-22. Windsurfing!
30 Jan. – Mon.
Clean and re-caulk around hatch combing (companionway) and spray combing. Caulk around stbd. dorade box. Cut rubber gasket for dorade cowl.
p.m. Lunch for caretakers Santos and Pertilino Peles.
late
p.m. Pertilino Peles aboard to stay after threat from Santos “Get off island” with gun.
31 Jan – Tues.
a.m. Celebrate Peter’s 34th b-day – “Evasion”. Cake & coffee.
No differences resolved between Santos and Pert. Pert. brings belongings aboard Rhysling to await boat for transport to Pohnpei. Fishing in p.m. & reef fish dinner.
1 Feb. – Wed.
0900 Wind N to NNE 20+ kts. Prepare to shift to Patja Is. anchorage for better protection. Pertilino still aboard awaiting boat.
0930 Eng. on.
0950 Anchor up, u/w to Patja Is.
1010 Anchored at N end of Nikalap Aru Is; (Aru Pt.) 25’
2 Feb. – Thurs.
a.m. Haircuts for all…
p.m. Scrub out all of Rhysling’s bottom with help of Pertilini [sic] and Elter… Finished in 2 hrs.! Night fishing by Pert…
3 Feb. – Fri.
a.m. Still awaiting boat for Pert… No luck. Fish from Terry & Suzy of “Valhalla”. Nice baked dinner (blue jack cravelle). Contact with John on Pac. Int. Is. Net[59]
4 Feb. – Sat.
General preparations for getting u/w tomorrow.
a.m. Heavy rain. Scrub decks. Wipe down interior teak.
p.m. Stow Pert’s tools, dinghy. General tiedown.
5 Feb. – Sun.
0600 Prepare to get u/w
0730 Engine on.
0740 u/w to Ant Pass.
0810 Transit Ant Pass. Lots of swirling water, poss. later tide than Pohnpei as it was still ebbing.
0840 Main, #2 jib, mizzen set. Eng. secured. Wind ENE 12-14.
Lovely sailing! S: 4-4.5 kts.
1000 Wind dropping in lee of Pohnpei. Eng. on. Motor to Tauak Pass. Down all sails.
1100 Transit Tauak Pass, various courses inside reef passage toward Kolonia.
1200 Pelikar Pass ab’m port.
1245 Sokehs Rk. ab’m stbd; enter main channel to Kolonia.
1325 Anchored in Pohnpei Hbr., 30’. Pert and Elter off in Puddle Shuttle to find boat to transport tools box and personal possessions ashore. Visit by Paul & friends in canoe. General cleanup on deck. Beautiful, sunny afternoon. Average speed = 4.6 (6.2 sailing!).
1700 Pert back to take tools & belongings ashore
6 Feb. – Mon.
Shopping, P.O., errands, etc. (Big pile of mail).
7 Feb. – Tues.
Laundry day. Correspondence. p.m., Peter & cousin aboard to take Elter home. Invited to dinner with family Thursday.
8 Feb. – Wed.
Propane tank to PDI for filling ($1.65/lb!). Photos for reprints; errands. Fill outboard gas can.
p.m. To “Moblue” for lesson by Oola on using my sewing machine. Nice visit with Chip family & crew.
9 Feb. – Thurs.
a.m. “Puddle Shuttle” on deck fro repairs.
0745 Shorten anchor rode; prepare to shift within anch.
0800 Eng. on.
0805 Shift to new spot in anchorage.
0815 Anchored in 25’
0825 Eng. secured.
0900 Re-glass areas on stern of “Puddle Shuttle”, drill drain in stern chamber, fit plug. Re-screw gunwale fender.
1200 Wipe down overhead in upper cabin (lots of mildew).
10 Feb. – Fri.
a.m. To hospital for check on back. New pimple/boil forming. Lanced & drained. Back on antibiotics (Dioxacillin 4xday). Correspondence.
11 Feb. – Sat.
a.m. To bicycle races with Withnel.
p.m. Correspondence.
12 Feb. – Sun.
Rain all day. All fresh water topped off. Correspondence.
13 Feb. – Mon.
Shopping, correspondence, errands.
Dismantle pump on W/C[60] head (jammed). Inspect and re-install leathers. Replace cam & packing nut. Re-install & test – okay. Treat with SeaLube.
14 Feb. – Tues.
Laundry day. Remove banjo/one-way union on f/o[61] rtn. line for poss. replacement of washers at pub. works. Off to visit Elter’s family & pub. works at Nett.
15 Feb. – Wed.
Back to boat; correspondence.
16 Feb. – Thurs.
Errands. Begin repairing courtesy flags. Laundry.
17 Feb. – Fri.
Correspondence; errands; send for replacement washers on f.o. return line (MO$5.00). 3rd pimple forming on back – lance & onto antibiotics…
18 Feb. – 19 Feb.
Off with Elter & bro. Bruce to “Nanpeel” house in jungle on river – Nett.
20 Feb. – Mon.
a.m. Change primary & secondary fuel filters (primary very dirty). Re-install rtn. line at secondary filter. Eng. test after bleeding. Quick start!
Check start batt. Add water to 2 cells. All okay.
Re-bond backstay legs. Mount story/cribbage board.
21 Feb. – Tues.
a.m. To immigration for visa extension. Good to 15 March. Must fill out alien registration form for being in country over 90 days. Am to apply for cruising entry permit extension on 13 March.
Errands, shopping. Correspondence. Continue repairing courtesy flags.
22 Feb. – Thurs.
a.m. Replace top hank on #2 jib. Re-fasten stbd. base on bow pulpit (thread-lock on nut). Visit with Joe, Eliz. & Natalie on “Vega” for chart copies, etc. Clean head. Start work on Tuvalu courtesy flag.
24 Feb. – Fri.
Correspondence, errands. Continue work on courtesy flag.
p.m. Visit by other yachties for “cocktail hour”. Everyone knocked out by Steve’s Bloody Mary mix!
25 Feb. – Sat.
a.m. Phone call from Zeke in Guam. Decided not to follow thru with planned transaction. Work on courtesy flag.
26 Feb. – Sun.
Repair head pump (replace leathers – again!). Lower leather damaged. Correspondence. Order 2 sets spare leathers. Order eng. parts thru Ana (oil cooler, washers, inj. pipe #3 & start motor). Continue work on flag.
27 Feb. – Mon.
a.m. Complete courtesy flag. Errands; P.O.; CG renewal for doc. reg.[62]
p.m. Ex. engine & chg. batts. Quick start without bleeding…
28 Feb. – Tues. – 2 Mar.
a.m. Off to Nett; then for trek to Nanpil.
3 March – Fri.
Correspondence. Fabricate cockpit cushion hold-downs with bungee. Install fairleads for h.w. jib sheets at winches on combings. Going away party for Don, Nick, Steve, on Swan 46 headed to Hawaii.
4 March – Sat.
a.m. Rain (finally!). Correspondence.
To yacht “Midnight Rambler” for farewells to Nick, Don, Steve & Ricky. Help stow dinghy, etc.
1555 Exercise engine. Fairly quick start.
1615 Eng. secured.
Correspondence. Repair Tonga courtesy flag. Visit by Paul & Kensy. Rest day. Work on voyage “statistics”.
6 March – Mon.
0320 Steady, moderate rain. Fill jugs, buckets, & tanks.
“Statistics” to date: (From Kwaj. departure to present)
Number of anchorages: 118
Number of times anchored, moored, or alongside: 199
Number of countries: 10
Number of vessels sighted at sea: 19
Total nautical miles sailed: Approx. 13,000 (Kwaj.–Aust. – 10,000)
(Aust.-Pohnpei – 3,000)
Number of sail changes or reefs: 677 (Log I: 380, Log II: 297)
Total months cruising Kwaj. to 31 March ’89: 30 (accounting for year worked)
With crew: 12 months. Singlehanded: 18
Laundry day. Wipe down overhead in lower and forepeak cabins. Wipe down Formica. Treat dodger windows. Scrub “Puddle Shuttle” inside & out. Errands, shopping.
7 March – Tues.
a.m. Drizzle. Correspondence.
noon Great waterfall expedition in “Puddle Shuttle” thru mangrove channels to Kitti. Lots of dead ends but no luck finding it. Is there a waterfall?! Rowed part way back due to short fuel supply. Lots of tidal currents. All very scenic, though…
8 March – Wed.
a.m. Clean & polish all SS lifeline stanchions including pulpit & pushpit. Scrub decks around water jugs. Clean cockpit sole. Scrub growth off anchor chain near surface. Errands in afternoon.
9 March – Thurs.
early
a.m. To Kitti with Elter and Olter to meet Nahnmwarki; overnight stay.
10 March – Fri.
p.m. Big field day of interior. Vacuum all rugs; also qtr. berth cushions. Clean stove & oven inside and out. Navel [sic] Jelly to remove rust spots.
11 March – Sat.
a.m. Errands. Correspondence.
p.m. Visit with Eliz., Joe, & Natalie aboard “Vega”. Great pizza!
12 March – Sun.
0430 Heavy, steady rain. Top off all tanks, jugs, & buckets. Correspondence all day. Rain, winds S to SW to W.
1430 Clearing. Visit by Paul, Colonel, Kensy & Siano.
Continue correspondence.
1730 Change out propane tank in deck locker. On hand: 3 full; 1 m.t. (Last tank lasted 6.5 weeks).
13 March – Mon.
a.m. To Immigration for extension on entry permit. Errands.
1430 Exercise eng. 30 min. Entry permit & visa extended to 15 July. Laundry day.
14 March – Tues.
a.m. Correspondence & errands.
p.m. “Vega” crew over for dinner.
15 March – Wed.
“Taro Patch Day” celebration in Kapinga Village. Feast, dancing & magic show…
16 March – Thurs.
Correspondence; errands. Exercise outboard. Take propane tank to place for refilling. $16.50 PD.
17 March – Fri.
a.m. Errands. Pick up propane tank. Clean solar shower.
18 March – Sat.
a.m. Correspondence.
noon Great waterfall expedition with Paul & Kensy in “Puddle Shuttle”. Lots of rain, but we found it!
19 March – Sun.
Correspondence. Steve over to help check alternator. Adjust v[oltage] regulator to charge at 14.2V. Bypass ammeter and check with Steve’s. Reading is accurate but shunt not matched to my ammeter. Run eng. 2½ hrs. to high-charge batts. Check electrolyte in eng. start batt. – very low. All batts. fully charged. Joe over to discuss prob. Comms. with Steve at Kwaj. about clearance to go to Usaka without entering RepMar[63] at Majuro…
20 March – Mon.
a.m. Check electrolyte. 4 of 6 cells 50%, 2 – 25%.
Laundry day. Errands. Send order to Spa Creek for new ammeter.
21 March – Tues. * Vernal Equinox *
a.m. To P.O. to mail reinstatement for C.G. Doc. ($50.00!)
noon Heavy rain – fill tanks, buckets, jugs, etc.
Correspondence.
22 March – Wed.
a.m. Correspondence.
noon Exercise eng./chg. batts.
Rain most of day. Visit by “Blacky”, Roselyn & Clyde of “Corazona”.
23 March – Thurs.
Rain all day. To “Corzaona” to help install new voltage regulator.
Check electric action on zincs.
Install zinc on outboard drive unit.
p.m. Visit aboard “Vega”
23 March – Fri.
a.m. P.O., errands.
1100 Great Sokehs expedition with Clyde, Roselyn, Siano, Paul, Don, Kensy, Steve
1430 Rt. knee injured while jumping from small ledge. Hobble back down…
25 March – Sat.
0020 Severe pain in knee; very swollen.
0430 Begin medication for knee – Motrin. 2 tabs 3x.
Rain all day. Immobile with swollen knee. Continue medication.
1930 Contact with Eric Lindborg via ham. Can increase Motrin to 2 tabs 4x daily.
26 March – Sunday (Easter)
a.m. Knee still greatly swollen, but pain easing…
27 March - Mon.
Swelling down a bit, but more pain.
p.m. Noticing that lower leg (calf) and foot are swollen. Comms. with Steve at Kwaj. to pass word to Eric about condition. Shed. for tomorrow night @ 1000Z
28 March – Tues.
Rest all day to alleviate pain & swelling. Swelling easing; also pain.
29 March – Wed.
Inventory dry goods & make provision list. Exercise eng., chg. batts. Adjust idle speed and anti-stall device with help of Joe from “Vega”. Clean outboard spark plug. Scrub intakes for head and engine raw water
30 March – Thurs.
a.m. Work on Merlin nav. computer for Steve.
noon Disconnect & clean head raw water intake hose. Ream out seacock (fouled inside). Re-assemble & test. All okay.
p.m. Correspondence.
Swelling in knee continuing to dissipate, but ankle and foot still swollen (possibly more so). Foot very sore on bottom & rt. side. Can’t figure out what it is unless a nerve was damaged with knee accident...?
1900 Comms. with Eric L. on ham. Advises to continue taking Motrin to help foot & ankle swelling.
31 March – Fri.
a.m. Laundry. Ice with Paul. General field day of vessel. Will borrow dinghy from “Corazona” to pick up Sally in a.m.
1830 Sally Renee aboard as crew.
1 April – Sat.
a.m. Shopping.
p.m. Great waterfall expedition with Sally, Blacky, Clyde, Roselyn, Wade & Bob. Bath time!
2 April – Sun.
1330 Cris Lindborg aboard as crew.
Rain all day. Fill buckets & jugs.
3 April – Mon.
a.m. Exercise eng., chg. batts.
Shopping, bank, P.O., errands.
p.m. Scrub waterline, fathometer transducer, prop, shaft, and rudder fittings.
4 April – Tues.
0130 Heavy rain. Fill all buckets, jugs & tanks (topped off) with fresh water
a.m. Correspondence. Girls to town on errands. Rain in afternoon. Lubricate switch on head light.
a.m. Correspondence.
Rent car for errands (35.00/day)
General provisioning - $121.00. Visit to Pelep family for goodbyes.
6 April – Thurs.
Rest day (?!) – sightseeing, pick up some last minute items. Batts. & typing cassettes.
7 April – Fri.
a.m. Errands, forwarding address to P.O. Return car. Check with Customs & Imm. for clearance to Kosrae. Check wx at met. office.
p.m. Scrub & stow dinghy. Rig abandon ship gear. General deck tiedown; prepare for sea…
8 April – Sat.
0630 Preparations for getting u/w
0830 Eng. on.
0840 Anchor up, u/w to Kolonia wharf.
0905 Moored portside to wharf awaiting Customs & Immigration.
0945 Cleared by Customs.
1000 Cleared by Immigration.
1015 Rain.
1125 Eng. on.
1130 Underway to Kosrae!
1155 Transit Sokehs Pass. Wind: NE 6-8. o/c 030ºM
1315 Up #2 jib; motorsail o/c 000-020ºM
1340 Up main.
1345 Eng. secured. o/c 355ºM.
1355 Up mizzen, S: 3.0 (poss. opposing current).
1630 Onto port tack; o/c 120-40ºM
1900 Continue o/c 130ºM (average), lite off SatNav.
DR: 7º 05’N – 158º 24’E. Re-initialize SatNav
2100 Down mizzen to lessen wx helm.
2300 Continue o/c 120ºM @ 4.5 kts. Wind ENE 12-16. Glorious sailing!
9 April – Sun.
0000 Continue o/c 120º130ºM @ 4.5 kts. Wind ENE 14-16.
0310 Satfix: 6º 38.6N – 158º 47.4E.
0745 Single reef in main. o/c 125ºM.
1000 Continue o/c 120ºM, 4.5 kts.
1100 Wind shifting ENE 14-16, o/c 130ºM
1300 o/c 150ºM
1400 Continuing o/c 150ºM; S: 4.5
1504 Satfix: 5º 52.4N – 159º 24.4E. SMG = 5.2, CMG = 138ºM
1540 Wind drop to 8-12, shake out reef; up full main. Wind shift to East. o/c 160ºM.
2300 Wind shift to SE with rain showers…
2315 Calm; variable light winds.
10 April – Mon.
0020 Rain showers; variable wind.
0100 Wind shift to SE. o/c 060-080ºM. S: 4.5.
Numerous rain cells in vicinity.
0300 Light SE wind; o/c 050-060ºM. S: 4.
0500 Onto port tack; o/c 160ºM. S: 3.
1000 o/c 120ºM, S: 4
1500 Near calm; hand steer in light airs. o/c 150ºM, S: 3.0
1600 Continued light airs; o/c 120ºM. S: 2-3.
1748 SatFix: 5º 03.3N – 160º 02.6E.
1900 o/c 090-100ºM. S: 4.
2100 o/c 100-110ºM. S: 4.
2300 o/c 140ºM. S:3-4.
11 April – Tues.
0100 o/c 150ºM. S: 3.5.
0130 o/c 050ºM. S: 4. (port tack)
0800 Passing showers; Wind ESE 12-18. o/c 060ºM.
0930 Continued ESE wind! o/c 060-070ºM. S: 4.5.
Sally & Cris repairing foredeck/cruising awning.
1030 Wind increase, ESE 18-22. Single reef in main.
1530 Check steering & Aries – lube.
1608 SatFix: 5º 13.2N – 161º 19.5E. SMG = 5.3, SMG = 072ºM
1645 Shake out reef, up full main.
2300 Continue o/c 040-050ºM @ 5.0 kts. Wind ESE 16-18.
12 April – Wed.
0038 SatFix: 5º 38.3N – 161º 53.3E
0715 Wind increase with passing showers- 20-24 kts. ESE.
0735 Wind drop after showers.
0745 Calm; confused seas; eng. checks.
0800 Engine on to chg. batteries and motor in near calm. Slight breeze from ENE. o/c 140ºM, 4.5 kts.
0815 Down jib; motorsail with main only.
0905 Up #2 jib.
0910 Eng. secured. o/c 165-170ºM.
1010 Kosrae in sight dead ahead @ approx 28 NM.
1130 Onto stbd. tack – o/c 060ºM, 4.5 kts.
1400 Port tack; o/c 165ºM @ 4.0 kts.
1900 Approaching Kosrae Is. to standby overnight for early a.m. entry.
2020 Down main.
2030 Commence tacking on lee side of Kosrae awaiting daylight to approach Lele Hbr.
2300 SatNav secured.
13 April – Thurs.
0000 Continue tacking in lee of NW side of Kosrae awaiting dawn.
0520 Up main; o/c 035-040ºM. S: 4.5-5.
0620 Onto port tack; o/c 150ºM, various courses to clear Cape Halgan and enter Lele Hbr.
0730 Cape Halgan ab’m port.
0820 Down main.
0830 Transit Lele Hbr. pass.
0840 Down jib, eng. on; u/w to anch.
0900 Anchored in 35’, Lele Hbr. Awaiting port clearance (“Q” flag up).
0945 Customs, Immigration & quarantine officials aboard.
1020 All cleared to stay until 16 April. “Q” secured.
1230 Visit by Jack and Donna of “Kulk Iri” Santa Barbara – enroute to Pohnpei from Majuro (also arrived today).
1430 Check eng. start batt. water. Tighten packing gland approx. ½ turn.
14 April – Fri.
a.m. Correspondence. Fabricate bracket for Nav. sta. light. Replace bungees on sheet blocks.
p.m. Off to “town” with John Sigra (Ted Sigra’s son) to clear Customs & Immigration.
1530 Cleared by Immigration and Port authorities to depart approx. noon 16 April.
Tour of island with John and Frank. Dinner at restaurant with Sepe & Yusila (Cris’s friends).
15 April – Sat.
Rain all day – errands & visit to ruins. Baking for dinner with Ted Sigra and family. Prepare for evening magic show.
p.m. Dinghy aboard.
16 April- Sun.
0630 Begin preps. for getting u/w. Stow gear & general tiedown; overcast with wind from SE. Stow dinghy, etc.
0800 Rain & wind from SE. Steady showers for short periods.
1100 Eng. checks.
1110 Eng. on; up anchor.
1125 1125 u/w from Lele Hbr. anchorage.
1140 Transit pass; u/w to Ebeye, Kwajalein, RepMar.[64]
1150 Up #2 jib and main. Motorsail in light SE wind.
1230 Down jib for repairs, continue motorsailing o/c 070ºM. Slight breeze from SE to SW (?).
1440 Up lg. jib, light breeze ESE.
1445 Eng. secured. o/c 030ºM
1600 Passing squall, winds 25-30.
1615 Winds down to 14-16 – ESE – o/c 070ºM.
1740 Wind drop to near calm. o/c 330ºM – 2 kts. NE wind.
1800 Wind filling in from E @ 10-14. o/c 060ºM – 4.0 kts.
1815 Wind increase – 14-18. o/c 045ºM 5.0 kts.
1930 Wind ESE 16-18, o/c 070ºM – 5.0 kts.
1950 Secure head sink discharge due to back siphoning to sump.
2000 Continuing o/c 070-080ºM; S: 5.0.
17 April – Mon./16 April – Sun.
0115 Onto port tack due to wind shift to NE
o/c 090-110ºM with main & lg. jib. S: 4-4.5. Drizzle.
0300 course averaging 120ºM. S: 4. Drizzle.
0700 Continuing o/c 120-140ºM. S: 4. Overcast. Mod. NE wind.
DR: 5º 24’N – 164º 10’E. Light off SatNav.
0930 Sally continues repair of #2jib.
1045 Lube steering & Aries.
1130 Onto stbd. tack; o/c 035-040ºM @ 4 kts.
1200 17 April → 1300 16 April
Advance ship’s clocks one hour and retard one day to conform with +12 time zone (Kwajalein).
1600 DR posit: 5º 18.6N – 164º 31.6E
1630 Onto port tack; o/c 110-120ºM; S: 4.0. Wind NE @ 12-16 kts.
1948 SatFix: 5º 28.8N – 164º 35.5E
2345 Squall from NE; luff sails; down jib.
17 April – Mon.
0010 Heavy rain with passing squall; wind shift to E. o/c 030ºM with main only; S: 2.5
0100 Continued steady rain; wind ENE @ 8-10 kts; up lg. jib. o/c 030-040ºM. S: 3.5.
0125 Wind decreasing, near calm – rain.
0200 o/c 045ºM; S: 3.5-4. Continued rain.
0300 Near calm; sails slating.
0330 Light breeze from ENE – o/c 030ºM. S: 3.5.
0420 SatFix: 5º 28.6N – 164º 59.9E.
0645 Continued calm; eng. checks.
0650 Down jib; eng. on; motor in calm; chg. batts.
0800 Heavy rain and wind – gusts to 35-40 kts. Motorsail.
0920 Engine secured. Sailing with main only.
0940 Up #2 jib; single reef in main. o/c 045, 4.5 kts.
1240 Up full main (shake out reef). o/c 030-040ºM. S: 4. Continued overcast and rain.
1500 Passing rain shower – winds 25; heavy rain. o/c 050ºM.
1545 Showers passed. Wind ENE 16-18. Single reef in main. o/c 045ºM.
1630 Shake out reef in main; whip end of jib sheet.
1700 Calm.
2100 Calm.
2300 Continued calm. Eng. checks. Down jib.
2305 Motor in calm @ 1500 RPM – o/c 045ºM – 4.5 kts.
2316 SatFix: 6º 10.2N – 165º 34.7E.
18 April – Tues.
0000 Continued calm; motoring at 1500RPM o/c 045ºM, S: 4.5.
0145 Light breeze from ENE; motorsailing with main up.
0200 Up #2 jib.
0205 Engine secured; o/c 005ºM. 4.5 kts.
0358 SatFix: 6º 24.6N – 165º 42.6E. Last 12 hrs: CMG – 016ºM, SMG = 2.7.
0405 Onto port tack; o/c 100ºM; S: 4.
0430 Back onto stbd. tack; o/c 030ºM; S: 4.5.
0830 Wind increase with approaching showers; single reef in main.
1015 Wind drop after showers; NE 5-10 kts; shake out reef, up full main. o/c 000ºM. S: 3.5-4.
1200 Continued light NE wind – 5-10. o/c 000ºM @ 3.5 kts.
1700 DR posit: 7º 20N – 165º 52E
1900 SatFix: 7º 31.0N – 165º 53.4E. Last 4 hrs: SMG = 4.4, CMG = 004ºM
2300 Continued fine sailing o/c 020-030ºM. 4.5 kts. Wind – ENE 12-16 kts. Seas slight.
19 April – Wed.
0000 o/c 020ºM @ 4.5 kts. with main & #2 jib. Wind NE to ENE 12-16 kts.
0500 Continuing o/c 010-030ºM; S: 4.5. Wind NE to ENE 12-16 kts. Delightful sailing!
1030 Cockpit photo session!
1100 Continued NE wind – 14-18 kts. o/c 010-020ºM. S: 4.5.
1253 Noon lat: 8º 46.9N
1430 R. fix: 8º 52.5N – 166º 29E
1700 DR: 9º 01N – 166º 33E
1800 Continue o/c 010º-020ºM – 4.5 kts. Wind ENE @ 14-16. Delightful sailing!
2000 Onto port tack. o/c 115ºM @ 4.0kts.
2028 SatFix 9º 20.4N – 166º 31.6E.
2100 Continue o/c 010-020ºM – S: 4.0.
20 April – Thurs.
0000 o/c 010-020ºM @ 4.0 kts. Wind 10-15, ENE. Seas slight.
1118 SatFix: 8º 44.0N – 167º 07.1E.
1200 Onto stbd. tack – o/c 010ºM; S: 4.0
1430 Contact with Kwaj. Port Capt. Mel Carr & Hbr. Control. Arrangements made to clear Imm./Customs at Ebeye tomorrow 0800. Miles made good Pohnpei to Ebeye: 920.
1500 Various courses & tacks to follow SW side of Kwajalein Atoll to pass.
1900 Gea Pass ab’m portside – 1½ miles.
SatNav secured.
2015 Ennylabegan Is. ab’m port. Eng. checks.
2105 Transit S. Pass. o/c 010ºM. Cross outward bound track after departing Kwaj. 2 June 1985; completing 14,000 mile circumnavigation of SW Pacific.
2200 Tack o/c 120ºM toward Ebeye.
2240 Eng. on; down jib & main; motor to anchorage.
2310 u/w to anchorage @ N end of Ebeye pier.
2330 Anchored in 30’ at N end Ebeye pier awaiting Immigration & Customs clearance; Kwaj. Hbr. Control notified.
21 April – Fri.
0700 General cleanup; launch “Puddle Shuttle”
0745 Ashore to clear Imm., Customs, etc.
0835 Usaka vessel Q-60 alongside with RepMar and Usaka officials for search of vessel and clearance.
0840 Commence search by drug dog “Vinnie”
0910 Search completed; Q-60 away. Capt. ashore to Immigration.
1015 Cleared by Immigration; cleared out by Customs for Usaka, Kwajalein.
1045 Rig #2 jib & mizzen drifter; prepare to get u/w.
1050 Eng. on; up anchor.
1100 u/w to Kwaj.
1110 Up #2 jib, eng. secured; up mizzen drifter.
1140 Down all sails; eng. on.
1145 Enter Kwaj. Harbor.
1150 Moored portside to #6-S finger pier, Kwaj. Marine Dept.
1215 Cleared by Security entry/exit for visit to 15 May with poss. extension for total of one month.
22 April – Sat.
a.m. Sewing machine & sails to sail loft for work next week.
Correspondence; rest day.
23 April – Sun.
a.m. Help Sally refit laser. B.B.Q. p.m. with Lindborgs, Zambons, Moultons.
24 April – Mon.
a.m. Check with Steve Hill about using mooring.
0915 Prepare to get u/w to mooring, S side of POL pier. Eng. checks.
0950 Eng. on.
0955 u/w to mooring.
1015 Moored on Steve Hill’s mooring.
p.m. P.O., bank, errands.
25 April – Tues.
a.m. Dental appointment to check poss. problem with filling. All okay; general check.
p.m. Set up sewing machine and begin repair of #2 jib (re-stitching, etc.).
26 April – Wed.
a.m. Correspondence. Continue work on #2 jib; rig elec. motor on sewing machine.
p.m. Sew Dacron tape on leech[65]. Tighten shaft packing 1/8 turn.
27 April – Thurs.
a.m. Continue work on #2 jib. All taping completed, also re-stitching and patching.
p.m. Submit paperwork to RepMar & Usaka for permission to visit Namu Atoll next week. All okay’ed. Order to West Marine (telephone).
28 April – Fri.
a.m. Haircut. complete work on #2 jib. Begin on working jib. New luff grommets.
p.m. To Hill’s for dinner. Check moorings for poss. move.
29 April – Sat.
a.m. To store for “supplies” for Sunday open house…
Inventory charts for copies for/from Steve Hill.
30 April – Sun.
0630 Clean up.
0800 To marina to “reserve” dock space.
0830 Eng. on.
0835 u/w to marina dock.
0845 Moored stbd. side to marina dock for open house.
0900 Collect refreshments, ice, & pu-pu’s with Sally to prepare for open house. Dress ship…
2200 Open house secured; clean up.
2300 - Appropriate, now, to close this log while moored at Kwajalein after departing here in June of 1985. No telling what’s in store for the upcoming/continuing voyage and Volume III…
This log now closed and continued in Vol. III.
[signed]
Michael P. Bates
30 April 1989
[1] A toggle is an intermediate fitting between the turnbuckle and the chainplate which allows the stay to pivot in any direction without stressing and fatiguing.
[2] This small, heavy-weight sail is usually called a “storm” jib, but Mike thought that name might bring bad luck, so he referred to it as the “high wind” jib.
[3] Beacon – a navigational aid, usually a numbered, colored square or triangle on a fixed piling
[4] Point of Departure; a known reference point for dead-reckoning
[5] Passport
[6] Red/White
[7] Cruising World magazine
[8] Spinner dolphins, presumably
[9] Symbol for the Sun, i.e. a line of position taken with a single sextant sight on the sun
[10] Azimuth angle – the bearing to the sun’s position, used to plot the line of position
[11] The difference between the calculated sun position and the vessel’s estimated position.
[12] ‘Running’ fix – combination of noon LOP and DR position from last fix.
[13] The National Bureau of Standards short-wave station that broadcasts the time and critical weather information
[14] Fathoms (1 fathom = 6 feet)
[15] When the wind shifts closer to the boat’s intended course, causing the boat to be more ‘close hauled’, and possibly forcing a course change to leeward
[16] Black-yellow-black
[17] Ferro-cement; material used for hull construction
[18] North Queensland
[19] WindSurfing
[20] Light-weight sailboat carried and launched from a trailer
[21] Cash Management Account
[22] The seal through which the propeller shaft exits the boat, allowing it to turn while admitting only a small drip of water
[23] Water-excluding boxes on which scoop-shaped air vents are mounted
[24] Engine room
[25] The screw clamps that seal opening portlights
[26] Raw water (i.e., seawater)
[27] Upper Sideband – a shorwave-radio broadcast mode designator
[28] Mike was ‘copying’ Morse code, which he knew from being a Navy Signalman
[29] The container for the Zodiac inflatable life raft
[30] A strong fore-and-aft line run on deck onto which safety harnesses are attached while at sea, permitting movement along the deck without un-clipping the harness.
[31] Pole used to hold out the clew of the jib when running downwind
[32] A metal drum attached to the main steering wheel where the control lines from the Aries self-steering mechanism attach and turn the wheel. It is fastened to the spokes of the wheel with stainless-steel “U” bolts.
[33] This entry not in Mike’s handwriting
[34] Main Engine
[35] Running fix
[36] A link in the Aries steering-rudder connection which is intended to break in the event of hitting an object in the water, thus preventing damage to the rudder and other components.
[37] back = change counter-clockwise (the opposite of ‘veer’, to change clockwise)
[38] high-pressure (fuel line to #2 injector)
[39] a small brass collar which seals the pipe fitting
[40] Upper (motor) portion of an outboard motor
[41] High-frequency, or ‘short-wave’ (i.e. ham) radio
[42] Communications (via ham radio)
[43] Seventh-Day Adventist
[44] Sea-cucumbers
[45] Schedule
[46] Stand By
[47] ‘Lifting’ – opposite of ‘heading’, i.e., the wind is changing away (aft) from the direction of travel, allowing the sails to be eased
[48] Federated States of Micronesia
[49] Brand of wire-rope end-fitting
[50] Waterline
[51] Upper shrouds
[52] Wrap-around skirts made of a single flat rectangle of cloth
[53] About the opposite direction that he wanted to go
[54] The 40-meter ham band
[55] Moved by current
[56] A friend reports that when Mike ran aground he was kocked off his feet and fell against his back; and due to the pain from the infection he passed out; shortly afterward the other cuisers arrived to help.
[57] Laurella Kusel, a lifelong family friend in California
[58] Passport
[59] Pacific InterIsland Net – a daily ham radio ‘net’ on the 20m band
[60] Wilcox-Crittenden (manufacturer of head). Or is it Water Closet?
[61] Fuel overflow
[62] Coast Guard Documentation registration
[63] Republic of the Marshall Islands
[64] Republic of the Marshall Islands
[65] The aft edge seam of the sail