Log of the Sailing Vessel “RHYSLING”

Owner/Captain – Michael Prior Bates, Palo Alto, CA

Volume III

May 1989 – June 1990

 

 

 

1 May – 1989 – Monday – Continued from Vol. II…

 

a.m.     Cleanup after open house at Kwajalein marina;  prepare to return to mooring…  Shopping; sail loft.

1205    Prepare to get u/w

1225    u/w to hbr. mooring

1230    Moored on Dave’s mooring N of POL pier

1300    To sail loft to finish work on working jib (sew on hanks).

1500    Rig safety chain on mooring ball to standing chain (5/8”).

1600    Stow goods for sea…

 

2 May – Tues.

 

0630    Prepare for getting u/w to Namu.  Stow gear, etc.

0730    Ashore to file float plan with Harbor Control.

a.m.     Continue tying down and stowing gear.

p.m.     Stow dinghy, awning, etc.  Passing showers on & off.

1345    Last preps. for getting u/w.

1350    Eng. on.

1400    u/w to Ebeye pier.

1450    Moored W end Ebeye pier.

1500    Load personal belongings of Choban family for trip to Namu.

1530    Bend on working jib; single reef in main.  Tie down on deck; prepare for sea. Rig Aries.

1710    u/w with Mike Choban, wife & 3 kids, to Namu via S pass.

1715    Up working jib.

1730    Eng. secured.  Lite off SatNav.

1815    Transit S. pass; tack; on course 145ºM to Namu.

1850    Up single reefed main;  o/c 140-145ºM.  S-5.0.

2300    Continue o/c 135-140ºM @ 5.5 kts.

 

3 May – Wed.

 

0000    o/c 135-140ºM @ 5-5.5 kts; single reefed main & working jib.  Wind ENE 14-18.

0110    Down main.  Lt. on port bow – poss. Namu, Namu.

0200    Namu, Namu ab’m port side;  o/c 135ºM.  S-2-3.

0458    SatFix:             8º 02.3N – 167º 56.5E.

0600    Up single reefed main.

0720    Wind drop;  shake out reef; up full main.

0725    Wind filling in – ENE 12-16.

1050    Anil Pass 2 NM ahead – o/c 120ºM.

1100    Eng. on; motorsail to pass; down jib.

1115    Transit Anil Pass – strong ebb currents!

1120    o/c to Leuen Is.  Up jib – eng. secured.  SatNav secured.

1320    Eng. on, down sails – approach Mae Is. anchorage.

1405    Anchored in 25’ (boat in 60’ with 200’ out) at Mae Is. anch.

1500    Offload Chobans’ personal gear; all pax ashore.  Rain all afternoon.

 

4 May – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Repair shorted binnacle lt. switch.

1225    Eng. checks.  Prepare to get u/w.

1245    Choban family aboard; load personal goods.

1205    Eng. on.

1310    u/w from Mae Is.

1325    Up working jib; motorsail to Anil Pass.

1340    Comms. with Mel & Dwight (VE7ELA) on Ch. 16 “Canvasback”

1410    Transit Anil Pass.

1415    o/c 320ºM.

1420    Up main.

1425    Eng. secured.  S: 3.8-4 kts.

1545    Lg. herd (50-60) dolphins encountered W side Namu.  Poss. pymy [sic – pygmy?] killer whales (feresa) or melonheaded whales (pepenocephela).  Rode bow wave & surrounded boat 20 min.  [Drawing of whale/dolphin indicating short rostrum, all dark gray flanks, slighted fulcate dorsal]

1710    Bock Is. ab’m stbd.  SMG = 5.3.

1800    Continue o/c 320ºM to Namu, Namu.

1900    Approach Namu, Namu; eng. on; down sails.

1920    No persons seen; u/w to Kwaj.  Double reef in main to ease wx helm.

1925    Up jib (working) & main (double reefed).

1930    Eng. secured; o/c 335ºM to Kwajalein.

 

5 May – Friday

 

0000    Continuing o/c 325-335ºM with working jib & double reefed main.  Kwajalein lights visible ahead.

0345    Heave-to off Carlos (Ennylabegan) Is. awaiting dawn.

0530    u/w o/c 000ºM – tacking toward S pass.

0715    Single reef in main; continue toward S pass.

0825    Transit S pass; #2 buoy close to port!  o/c 015ºM.

1035    Eng. on; down sails, approach Ebeye pier.

1055    Moored stbd. side to W end Ebeye pier.

1125    All pax & parcels ashore.

1130    Eng. on;  u/w to Kwaj.

1135    Eng. secured; up working jib – o/c to Kwaj Hbr.

1200    Eng. on; down jib; approach Kwaj. Hbr.

1215    On mooring in Kwaj. Hbr.  Eng. secured.  Stow deck gear; launch dinghy.

 

6 May – Sat.

 

            Rain all day.  Correspondence.  Late p.m. “Swashbuckler’s Ball”

 

7 May – Sun.

 

            Correspondence;  help Sally launch “Ariel” sailing laser.

p.m.     To Hill’s to look over charts & sailing routes…

 

8 May – Mon.

 

a.m.     Hourglass[1] interview.  Gen. errands – P.O. & shopping.  Change bikes; repair Cisco’s bike.

p.m.     Dinner with McGrews.

 

9 May – Tues.

 

a.m.     Laundry.  3 x-rays on rt. knee at hospital (60.00).  Errands.

p.m.     Start work on repairs to Maui jib in sail loft. 

            Dinner with Goff family.

 

10 May – Wed.

 

            Continue work on Maui jib;  replace full panel, re-stitch luff.

p.m.     Magic show for Mrs. Gifford’s kindergarten class.

 

11 May – Thurs.

 

            Complete work on Maui jib repair.  Rain all day.

 

12 May – Fri.

 

            Begin work on new sail bags.  Buy 24 yds. brown Acrylan from Steve Hill (87.50).  Check with Lindborg’s about visit extension…

 

13 May – Sat.

 

            Big shopping day at Macy’s – 20% discount – also buy clothing at Patio Sales…

 

14 May – Sun.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Winds18-22 with heavy swell in anchorage.

1035    Exercise engine.  Tighten mounting screws on throttle plate inside steering box.

1105    Eng. secured.  End-for-end Aries steering lines to correct for chafe.  Lube Aries.

p.m.     Install drain in port settee across qtr. berth to cockpit sole.  Caulk around p&s ends of bridge deck.  Replace chafed topping lift (add thimble to splice).

 

15 May – Mon.

 

a.m.     Finish new topping lift.

            Complete 3 new sail bags.

 

16 May – Tues.

 

a.m.     Re-install topping lift.  Measure for possible cabin awning.

            Begin work on main cabin awning.  Rig halyard silencers.  Apply for special trip request – weekend trip to Shell Is. with Lindborgs – all approved.  Check on extension for visit – provost Marshall – “still pending”. 

            Organize used children’s clothes from family pool lost & found with Cris L.  B-day dinner with Sally[2].

 

17 May – Wed.

 

a.m.     Continue work on main cabin awning.  Add window to foredeck awning.  Rig both awnings.

 

18 May – Thurs.

 

early

a.m.     Rain.  Letter from PNG embassy re. visa fees $8.00.  Money order and SASE sent.  Attempt telephoning them in Wash. D.C. but no luck.  Will try again tomorrow.

p.m.     Re-caulk around bridge deck with new RTV silicone.  Buy misc. items from GSK warehouse.

 

19 May – Fri.

 

a.m.     Errands – phone PNG embassy, Wash. D.C., they will process visa & return pp in Monday a.m. mail.

            Locate 5/8” tubing to mount new anemometer cups on masthead.  Collect more children’s clothes for islands.  Rearrange fwd. “library” – exchange books at Kwaj. library.

 

20 May – Sat.

 

0700    Prepare to get u/w.  Stow deck gear, awnings, etc.

0920    Eng. checks.

0930    Eng. on.

0940    Lindborg family aboard for overnight sail in lagoon.

0950    u/w for lagoon sail.

1000    Up main & lg. jib; eng. secured.

1440    Sails down; eng. on;  approach anchorage @ N end Bigej Is.

1500    Anchored in 15’ @ N end Bigej Is.  Scrub waterline and thru-hull fittings.  Scrub “Puddle Shuttle”

 

21 May – Sun.

 

0900    Prepare to get u/w

0930    Eng. on

0940    u/w to Kwaj.

0950    Up lg. jib.

1015    Eng. secured.

1025    Up mizzen drifter.

1150    Down mizzen drifter.

1200    Eng. on; down jib; enter Kwaj. Hbr.

1205    Moored; Kwaj Hbr.  All pax ashore; general cleanup on deck; rig awnings, sailcovers, etc.

 

22 May – Mon.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Replace head cringle in mizzen drifter.  Errands.  Pick up new ID card.  Permission to visit extended to 29 May.

p.m.     Errands.  Re-adjust throttle on outboard.  Review medical kit for poss. replenishment.

 

23 May – Tues.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Help Nate Jackson move “Mali” to new mooring.  Heavy swells in anchorage;  winds NE 20-25 kts.

p.m.     Review medication list with Dr. Lindborg for renewal of certain items.

 

24 May – Wed.

 

0700    Prepare to get u/w (shift to finger pier #6-S)

0905    Eng. on.

0915    u/w to finger pier.

0920    Moored portside to #6-S to take on fuel, water, & provisions.

0740    Inventory & re-arrange dry goods locker.

1000    Shopping.

 

25 May – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Arrange for diesel tomorrow.  Clearance from Port Captain; permission to visit Namu & Ebon received from RMI office & liaison office.  Shopping at 10-10 (2 trips).  Children’s clothes from Lindborg’s.  Stow gear & supplies.  Haul out dinghy; stow outboard.  Clean up.  Dinner p.m. with Hills, Lindborgs, and Sally.

            Change out propane tank; on hand 2 full, 1 empty, 1 nearly m.t..

 

26 May – Fri.

 

            Xfer fuel – aft to main tank; prepare to take on fuel.

            Main tank topped off, and 62 gals. diesel to aft tank ($.94 per gal - $58.28).

            Continue misc. provisioning, errands, etc.  Tie down gear on deck.  Check wx at met. office.

 

27 May – Sat.

 

0400    Prepare to get u/w

0440    Eng. on.

0455    u/w from Kwaj. Hbr. to S Pass.

0510    Up #2 jib; motorsail (chg. batts.)

0550    Eng. secured.  o/c 270ºM to S Pass.

0605    Transit S Pass, jibe.

0610    Up main (with single reef).  o/c 140ºM to Namu Atoll.  Wind ENE 14-18.

0700    Kwaj. Is. ab’m port.  SMG = 5.5!

1055    Namu, Namu in sight ahead;  o/c 145ºM.

1240    NW end Namu, Namu ab’m port.  SMG = 6.2!!

1515    Enter Bock Passage, tacking.

1535    Eng. on; down jib; transit Bock Pass.

1550    Up jib; eng. secured.  u/w to Ebenmg Islet @ various courses (tacking).

1635    Eng. on – down jib;  approach anchorage.

1715    Anchored in 20’ at Ebenmg Is.

 

28 May – Sun. → 29 May – Mon.

 

            Advance ship’s date one day to conform with –12 time zone.

a.m.     Correspondence.  Stow misc. items in forepeak.

 

30 May – Tues.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Occasional passing showers.

1030    Prepare to get u/w to Majikin Islet.  Eng. checks.

1100    Eng. on.

1110    u/w to Majikin Islet – motor to chg. batts.

1240    Anchored in 20’ at Majikin Islet, Namu.

1245    Eng. secured.  Rig awning, etc.

1345    Ashore to village.  Meet Peace Corps worker Margaret _______ of Boston, Mass.

 

31 May – Wed.

 

0630    Ashore with Sally to catch AMI flight to Kwajalein.

1030    Sally off on AMI flight.

            Tighten packing gland ¼ turn, clean bilge.  Check start batt. water (add little to all cells).  Lube steering gear.  Lube anchor windlass.

p.m.     Swimming & “water polo” with 14 kids around R[hysling].

 

1 June – Thurs.

 

→        And what is so rare as a day in June…

a.m.     Correspondence.

p.m.     Fabricate rope lanyards on buckets.

            Scrub & clean topsides.

 

2 June – Fri.

 

a.m.     Organize nav. station file, ham notes.

            Correspondence.

            Re-locate wind/water gen. ammeter and eng. start batt. solar charging plug.  Install new alternator ammeter and shunt.  Run new wires from eng. compartment.  Label all switches & meters.  Run engine to test – all okay.

p.m.     Word from Steve Hill on ham that p.p. with PNG visa arrived at Kwaj.

 

3 June – Sat.

 

0140    Wind increase &shift to ESE.  All secure with anchor.  Swing to 25’ depth (formerly 35’ with 150’ scope).  Poss. approaching rain – noticeable drop in air temp…

0230    Near calm; rolling.

0630    Continued total calm.  rolling in anchorage.

0900    Light breeze from E to ENE.

1000    Magic show for village.

noon    Laundry day.

 

4 June – Sun.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.

1030    Church.

1630    Carl McGrew, son Paul & Kamarai arrive on Whaler (K-6779) from Kwaj. with passport, mail, etc. 

            Dinner with Peace Corps worker Margaret Johnson & parents Bud & Shirley.

 

5 June – Mon.

 

a.m./

p.m.     Dive trip to Ebenmg Islet.

 

6 June – Tues.

 

a.m.     Prepare for Carl & gang to depart; also prepare for sea.  Clean s/w[3] inlet on head

1025    K-6779 away for return. trip to Kwaj.

1030    Lite off SatNav

1050    Eng. checks.

1100    Passing showers; wind from E to ESE!

1200    Continued E winds.

1400    Glassy calm between heavy showers, wind from E whenever it comes up.  Delay departure 24 hrs. due to weather & wind direction.

1700    Comms. with Steve on 40m.  McGrews safely back at Kwaj.

 

7 June – Wed.

 

a.m.     Wx report shows normal ENE trades returning; some passing showers.  Prepare for noon departure.  Attempt adjusting SatNav for improved bit rate; no success.

1200    Prepare to get u/w.

1230    Eng. on.

1250    Anchor up;  u/w to Bock Pass.

1300    Anchor stowed for sea, up working jib.  Wind ENE @ 12-16 kts.  Motorsailing to chg. batts.

1400    Transit Bock Pass.

1405    o/c 160ºM; eng. secured; up single reefed main.

1445    SMG = 5.4 by visual bearings.

1500    Change out one propane tank from deck box.  On hand:  Forepeak: 1 full/ 1 empty.  Deck box:  1 full/1 nearly empty.

1545    Anil Is. ab’m port.  SMG = 5.6.

1720    S end Namu Atoll ab’m port.

1945    Slight decrease in wind; some cloudiness ahead.

1955    SatNav secured.

2030    Lg. sea over house – dollop of seawater in salon hatch.

2035    Increased wind with passing squall – 25-30 kts.

2130    Squalls passed; wind down to 14-16.

2245    Contact broad on stbd. bow.  Appears to be large vessel, poss. on parallel or recip. course; hull down.

2300    Another squall – very black ahead…

 

8 June – Thurs.

 

0000    Continued passing squalls with accompanying wind shifts & increase.  Hand steer through most.  No sign of contact sighted earlier.

0200    Steady rain & wind – often gusting to 25-30.

0615    Down main to ease wx helm.  S: 4.0 (previously 6.0).

0750    Up double reefed main to point higher.  o/c 155ºM;  S: 4.5. (170ºM for 1.5 hrs.)

0800    DR:     6º 20’N – 168º 22’E

0825    SatNav on.

0930    Wind drop & shift to E.  o/c 160-170ºM.  S: 3.

            Continued drizzle and overcast.

1130    Still overcast, but sun showing at times.  Managed a rough LOP; hoping to get noon lat (LAN[4]: 12:44)

1245    No sun visible;  total overcast & drizzle L

1300    Enough sun for rough LOP;  R. fix:  5º 57.6N – 168º 31.0E

            Dist. to Ebon:  77.5 NM.

1630    Continued overcast.  o/c 155ºM,  S: 4.0.

1830    Continued overcast; some passing showers.

1835    SatNav secured; no fixes…

1930    Near calm;  seas flattening out, poss. clearing….  o/c 150ºM @ 3 kts.

2130    Wind increase to 14-18 kts., rain.  o/c 140ºM @ 4-5 kts.

2200    Near calm,  o/c 170ºM.  S: 2-3.

2245    Wind shift to ESE! (Very light).  o/c 210ºM.  S: 2.3.

2320    Approaching squall from E.  o/c 160ºM – rain, wind to 20+.

2330    Rain;  o/c 150ºM,  4-5 kts.

 

9 June – Fri.

 

0030    Near calm.  o/c 180ºM,  S: 1-2.  Large dark clouds ahead; poss. passing in front of us?…

0145    Wind picking up; o/c 150ºM,  4.5 kts.  Rain.

0300    Continued passing showers.  Wind up & down;  calm to 14-18 kts.

0415    Wind shift to ESE;  o/c 200ºM @ 3-4 kts.  Rain.

0430    Extremely dark all around.  Horizon not visible.

0440    Heavy rain.  Heave-to on stbd. tack.

0450    Extremely heavy downpour.  No wind.  Down jib.  Very, very dark.  Black, black, black.

0550    Rain abating; not has heavy, but steady.  Stand by for daylight.  Moving slightly toward NNE.

0650    Up jib;  o/c 160-170ºM @ 4.5 kts.

0710    Heavy squall passing, wind shift to ESE;  o/c 200ºM, S: 5.  Rain & wind gusts to 3-3.5 kts.

0750    Squall passed;  wind down to 12-14 kts ESE;  o/c 200ºM,  S: 4.

0815    Wind backing slightly, still ESE.  Steady rain.  Very overcast.  Don’t know how it will be making landfall.  Still about 30 miles out of Ebon.

0845    Shake out reef in main (single reefed now).  Down working jib.  Up #2 jib.  Wind increasing and backing to E and ENE.  o/c 160-170ºM,  S: 4.5-5.  Continued drizzle and heavy overcast.

1030    Wind dropping & veering toward E.  o/c 190-200ºM, S: 3-4.  Sky brightening, but still overcast.  Shake out reef & up full main.

1110    Wind continuing to veer; best course 210-220ºM!  Light breeze.  May motorsail while charging batts.

1120    Eng. on; down jib;  motorsail o/c 160ºM.

1420    Wind from ENE; up #2 jib; o/c 150ºM.

1425    Eng. secured.

1550    Halfway decent sun line shows we are probably 15-20 NM W of Ebon.

1600    Onto stbd. tack.  Overcast with winds 16-18 kts.  o/c 060ºM.

1735    Ebon Atoll in sight on stbd. bow.

1900    Onto port tack, various tacks & courses to approach lee side of Ebon Atoll for the night.

2230    Double reef in main; down jib.  Heave-to on port tack – moving slowly (1 kt.) o/c 180ºM.

 

10 June – Sat.

 

0130    Jibe onto port “tack”.  Drift mode o/c 020-030ºM.

0615    Dawn.  A good rest last night.

0700    Up #2 jib.  u/w tacking toward Ebon Atoll.

0715    Up full main;  very light breeze from ENE.  Heavy overcast with black, ominous sky to N…  o/c 130-150ºM.

0835    Approaching squalls.  Single reef in main.

0845    Major squall – driving rain; winds 25-34,  40 gusts.

0930    Squall passing.

1020    Drizzle, calm, confused seas.

1025    Down jib; eng. on; motorsail.

1200    Eng. secured.  Single reefed main up; sail in lee of Toka Islet, tack toward pass awaiting slack water @ 1450.  Stow jib; prepare anchor gear, etc.

1350    Eng. checks.

1355    Down main.

1400    Eng. on; motor toward pass.

1515-

1530    Transit Ebon Channel.  What a pass.  Slack water & proper light a must!

1605    Anchored in 50-60’ at main village, Ebon Island.

 

11 June – Sun.

 

0430    Heavy wind & rain.  Anchor dragging.  Eng. on; idle ahead to ease strain.  Depth:  40’.

0500    Wind abating.  Eng. in neutral; ready for more?…  Will definitely move to anchorage better protected later today!

0515    Eng. secured.  Stand by to see if wind stays down.

0530    Wind NE 8-12, all seems well.  Drizzle.

1000    More wind and rain; not as strong as earlier…

1045    Contact with passing boat about taking supplies to Aimbi Atrik and Hideo Milne’s families.  Boat will return @ 1300. 

1200    Continued steady rain;  no wind (thank goodness!).

 

1300-

1345    All goods delivered to Aitrik & Hosia families.

1400    Prepare to get u/w to shift anchorages.  Drizzle, calm.

1415    Eng. checks.

1420    Eng. on.  Up anchor.

1430    u/w to Japejiroi Anch.  (N end of Ebon Islet).

1545    Anchored in 40-5-‘ at Jepejiroi Anch.  Light breezes from N & NNW! L

1630    Wind still from NW, but thunder & black clouds to E and slowly approaching, so all should be okay.  It’s quite a slope 40’ to 90’ with 250’ of rode out; but I can always let out more if it blows hard from the east.  No sign of a village here as I’d expected.  Perhaps it’s further down toward the SW part of the island.  A quiet, peaceful anchorage, but not the best conditions, i.e., bottom steep & deep.

1710    Wind shift to ENE (just as I thought!).  Rain behind it.

1715    How wonderful!  Steady constant rain with only a breeze from ENE.  Port tank full & filling all buckets & jugs…

 

12 June – Mon.

 

0630    Continued rain with some wind gusts – ENE - but the nearness of shore to windward offers good protection.  Water remains flat making it a much safer and more comfortable anchorage compared to the previous one at other end of island.  I wonder if the sun ever shines here, though…

1000    Continued strong winds, but only brief gusts in anchorage.  It’s blasting in the lagoon, though…

            Repair inductor selector knob on antenna tuner.  Tighten packing 1/3 turn.  Clean bilge.

1230    Organize fastener boxes.  Locate sliding door stops for cubbies; organize stbd. cubby.  Clean out “ice box”.  Re-organize & re-stow beer, soda, & winds.  Dry working jib for repair (re-stitching leech) tomorrow…  Yes, the rain stopped a while;  still not much sun…

1300    Wind down to normal 10-12 kt. ENE trades.  Very calm in anchorage; general overcast with a few spots of blue showing.  Can we be in for a change?…  We’ll see.

            Lubricate steering, Aries, wheel drum and main boom gooseneck slider.

1600    This has been the most settled wx in a week!  A fair amount of sunshine in the late p.m., but still plenty of scattered clouds.  Some villagers nearby with boat fishing on reef about 2½ hrs., then off again (lots of waves & smiles in passing…).  Wonder if we can hope for some morning sun too…?  Laundry day tomorrow if so.  Hope it can hold ‘til I decide to leave the lagoon.  With the pass as difficult as it is, I can’t leave without optimum a.m. light conditions.  We shall see…

 

13 June – Tues.

 

0600    Blue sky at dawn!  I can hardly believe it.  Still quite a few clouds around, though, but a big improvement, wx-wise.

0730    Laundry day.  Correspondence.

            Have decided to try leaving tomorrow while wx remains good.  Have also decided to go to Rabaul instead of Makira so I can have replacement SatNav sent there.  Don’t want to risk Torres Strait with out that help.  Sextant’s not so bad for open ocean work, but in reef scattered waters if it’s overcast there could be problems; better safe than sorry.  Besides, it will be nice to see S. New Ireland & New Britain again, not to mention Rabaul.

p.m.     Set up & adjust sewing machine.  Re-stitch leech and foot of working jib.  Add 3 new patches to questionable areas.

 

14 June – Wed.

 

0530    Very calm, still all night, no rain; few clouds.

0800    Continued glassy calm.  Layer of strato-cum. clouds moving in from SE.  If it becomes overcast the light conditions will make transiting lagoon & pass impossible.  Will see how it develops toward noon…  Slack water:  12:51.

0930    Clouds clearing with good blue sky & sunshine.  Still glassy lagoon, though; like mirror reflecting the sky…

1115    Sunny now with scattered clouds, but…  breeze from west!  Can you believe it?!  But conditions are excellent for navigating the pass so I think I should go for it.  Prepare to get u/w.

1145    Shorten up on anchor.

1205    Eng. on.

1220    Anchor up & stowed; u/w to Ebon Channel.

 

1325-

1335    Transit Ebon Channel (Whew!).  Light W breeze & calm patches.  Motor a while o/c 220ºM.

1430    Continued flat calm.  Slight swell from SSE; continue motorsailing.

1700    Continued calm.  Eng. secured;  drift mode awaiting wind.

1715    Swim call/bath time.  It’s great to be on the deep blue again.  No dangers but keeping a wx eye.

2330    Light breeze from ENE;  bend on lg. jib.

 

15 June – Thurs.

 

0000    Up large jib; o/c 220-230ºM.  S: 1-2.

0430    Continued very light breeze from NE.  Just ghosting along with lg. jib, hand steering.  1-2 kts.

0500    Calm; down jib to reduce chafe.  Drift mode.

            Surrounded by dolphins.  Play flute to see reaction;  they all ran away!  So much for my flute playing!…

0630    Breeze from ESE…  Up lg. jib;  o/c 220-230ºM.  S: 2.

0850    Calm; down jib.  Goin’ swimmin’ with the dolphins!

0900    6-8 spotted dolphins gamboling around “Rhysling”.  I snorkel around quietly, but they keep their distance, chattering & squeaking a lot, though, then slowly move off.  There appears to be a current setting SW (how lucky can we get!) as the boat continues moving o/c even with no sail up.  Long swell from NE so expect wind to fill in eventually.  A lovely day with lots of blue sky & puffy, hanging clouds.

0930    Very light breeze from E;  up lg. jib – o/c 220-230ºM,  S: 2.

1000    DR:     4º 15.4’N – 168º 15.8’E.  Commence taking weekly Cloroquil anti-malarial prophylactic.  ¤ LOP shows us only 23 NM out of Ebon! L   SMG since departure:  1.1 kts.

            Perhaps we’re in a contrary current and our forward motion is mostly an illusion…

1200    Breeze seems to be filling in – ESE – with predominant swell from SE.

1205    Up full main, o/c 225ºM.

1215    Moving nicely now – S: 4-4.5.

1245    Noon lat:         4º 10.9’N  -  R. fix:  4º 10.9’N – 168º 22.5’E

1500    R. fix:  4º 05.7’N – 168º 17.5’E.  Continuing along nicely – o/c 225ºM.  S: 4-4.5.  Smooth, easy sailing.  If it can only stay like this;  not too fast, but very comfortable.

1930    So far, so good.  Continuing o/c 225ºM.  S: 4-4.5.  Lovely evening.

2345    Wind increase.  o/c 225ºM,  S: 5.

 

16 June – Fri.

 

0000    Delightful sailing!  Bright moon & stars, few clouds.  Wind ESE @ 12-16 kts.  o/c 225ºM, S: 5.

0200    Wind easing to 8-10 kts., S: 4.

0558    4 star fix:         3º 29.5N – 167º 32.1E.  SMG last 15 hrs:  3.9.  C/D to C. St. George:  231ºM,  1016 NM.

0730    Wind increase – 14-16 ESE.  S: 4.5.

0900    Wind lightening after passing shower – 10-12 ESE.

0905    Increasing again – 14-16.

1200    DR:     3º 15’N – 167º 13.7’E

1250    Noon lat:         3º 06.9’N

1300    Continuing nicely o/c 225ºM,  S: 4.5-5.  Joyous sailing!

1515    R. Fix:  3º00.3N – 166º 49E.  SMG:  5.1 (That’s better!)

1630    Wind easing to 8-12.  S: 3.5-4.  Decent cooking conditions.

1700    Wind up & down;  appears to be shifting toward SSE.  Some clouds & rain cells ahead…

1928    3 star fix:         2º 47.7N – 166º 39.9E

2000    Near calm.  Sails flogging…

2020    Contact with John (P29JW) on Interisland Net to make contact with Terry on 40m tomorrow @ 0600Z.

2300    Wind steady at 12-14, o/c 225ºM.  S: 4.0.  Another nice, clear, gentle night of sailing.  If it could only remain like this for a week or so…

 

17 June – Sat.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 225ºM, S: 4.  Steady breeze from ESE.

0400    Wind shifting slightly toward E (ESE to E).  Small swells, but yawing a fair amount.

0611    4 star fix:         2º 17.3N – 166º 01.1E.  SMG last 11.7 hrs:  4.6 J

0945    2 different pods of spotted dolphins (stenella) have been all around the boat for more than 2 hrs.  Gave them a flute concert and they’ve been squeaking up a storm in echo signals.  At least I didn’t frighten them off like the last group…

1000    Continuing with light E to ESE breeze – 8-12 kts.  o/c 225ºM, S: 4.0.

1100    Wind really from E now.  We’re off the wind (port qtr.)

1130    Lubricate steering & Aries.

1257    Noon lat:         2º 03.0N

1500    All afternoon wind has been off port qtr.  Jib & main lose air on each passing swell causing them to luff and slat momentarily until they fill again.  Out progress is slow but steady.  Probably 3.5-4 kts.  May take down main later for the night…we’ll see.

1700    Wind easing, but shifting slightly back toward ESE.  Sails still slatting but with reduced swell it’s not as bad as earlier.

2300    Continued flogging sails with light E wind; head up a bit to reduce wear on sails & rig.  o/c 210º-220ºM, S: 4.

 

18 June – Sun.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 210-220ºM @ 4 kts.  Light E wind.

0621    5 star fix:         1º 19.6N – 164º 48.3E.  SMG past 24 hrs:  3.9.  CMG = 222ºM.  809 NM to go…

0900    Comms. with Terry G & Mel C. on 40m RE: Ordering replacement SatNav.  Sched. set for 1500 today.

0945    Down main to reduce slatting and eliminate blanketing of jib.  o/c 230ºM.

1000    Temp. repair to top slide on main; wire tack shackle[5] on main.

1100    Set downwind pole with lg. jib.  o/c 230ºM.

1305    Noon lat:  00º 59.2N

1430    Continuing o/c 230-240ºM.  Light breeze from NE (8-10 kts.).  S: 3.5-4.0.

1500    Comms. with Terry & Mel on 40m.  Mel will order SatNav Mon. morning & have shipped from West Marine direct to me in Rabaul.

1600    R. fix:  00º 51.8N – 164º 20.0E.

1615    Re-run chafed steering line at Aries (port-side [of] rudder).

1700    Wind abating further.  Swell causes rolling & yawing, but jib filled most of the time.  Pole helps a lot.  Possibly in more countercurrent.  S: 3(?).

1750    Brief, light passing shower – just a sprinkle…

1820    More passing showers with wind hole following.  o/c 210ºM,  S: 2(?).

1900    What a wonderful change.  After several light showers the wind settled in from the E at about 10-12 giving us pleasant sailing o/c 230ºM at 4 kts.  Hope it keeps up.

1915    Sunset with lots of clouds about – none threatening.

2200    Continued breeze from NE.  o/c 230ºM, S: 3.

 

19 June – Mon.

 

0000    Running with lg. jib poled out – wind NE @ 8-10 kts.  o/c 230ºM,  S: 3.

0300    Passing showers, mostly cloudy.  Some distant lightning.  Wind still very light.

0630    Mostly cloudy.  Only able to catch one star for an LOP.  If correct it shows us further westward than expected.  Perhaps we’re finally out of the countercurrent and into one setting W.

 

0900-

0800    Retard ships clocks 1 hour to conform with –11 time zone.

 

0825    R. fix (Achernar & sun):         00º 21.8N – 163º 34.2E. 

            SMG past 27 hrs:  3.5.

1030    Wind dropping;  possibly trying to veer toward E (from NE).  Continued overcast, but thinning with bright-hazy sun.  Lots of blue batches showing all around, too.  Continuing o/c 230º-250ºM,  S: 3.5.

1100    Splice new strops on p&s deck cleats for main boom preventer tackle.

1205    Noon lat:         00º 13.2N

1300    Toast to King Neptunus Rex for entering his Royal Domain.  ETA transit the line – 1600.

1545    Wind down to a breeze again – NE.  Slow progress o/c 225ºM.  Occasionally wandering off course by lack of steerage.  More & more blue sky & sun but scattered high & low clouds.

1600    R. fix:  00º 06.0N – 163º 11.4E

1700    o/c 225ºM,  S: 3.0  (since 1530 (?))

1842    2 star fix:         00º 01.9N – 163º 05.5E

1900    Near calm.  o/c 225ºM, S: 1-2.

2000    Total calm.

2300    Continued complete, glassy calm.

2330    Down jib to reduce chafe.  Calm.

2355    Guess I’ll motor a while to exercise eng., chg. batts. & move thru some of this calm.  Eng. checks.

 

20 June – Tues.

 

0005    Flat calm.  u/w under power @ 1500 RPM.  o/c 235ºM.

0545    Dawn.  Still motoring.  This is definitely the doldrums – inky slick water with long, confused swells.  Dark, looming clouds loaded with water but just hanging all around the horizon, but sea & sky seem both black and in some places the horizon is indistinguishable.  You can practically feel all the evaporation that must be taking place.

0600    Occasional wisps of wind ruffling the surface in random patches.  Seems to be out of the S or SSE.  Hopefully it will fill in from the SE as expected.

0615    Up #2 jib – breeze from S.

0620    Eng. secured.

0630    Up main; o/c 230-240ºM.  S: 3.

0645    Calm!

0650    Xfer fuel from aft tank to main.  Poss. leak on top of aft tank.  It was topped off at Kwaj.

0700    Breeze from S to SSE!  o/c 230-240ºM, S: 3.5-4.  Continued cloudy & overcast.  No stars this morning.  Hope we see the ¤ sometime…

            Using #2 jib to stay on conservative side due to dark sky all around.

0730    Wind filling in & strengthening.  SSE @ 10-14 kts.  S: 4. 

0830    Wind increasing to 14-16 kts.  Lovely sailing.  S: 4.5-5.  Very black horizon toward NW.  Hope it remains stationary or moves off to the west…

0900    All the black clouds passing my stbd. side, then appear to be converging & building astern.  Hope they don’t somehow try to overtake and pounce on us…  Sky ahead appears lighter.  Maybe we’ll see the sun yet.

0935    Wind backing to E.  This thing’s gonna get us!  Down main.

1010    Just came inside out of driving rain.  Bummer.  Got the main down as wind intensified to 35+ kts.  Tried jibing the jib to run with it, but it blew out at clew & foot.  Got it down as fast as possible & secured.  Just running under bare poles now & making about 2 kts. with Aries steering okay.  Heavy constant rain past ½ hr.  Wind now down to 15-18 kts. and rain slowing.  Several claps of thunder with lightning.

1030    Stow damaged jib;  bend on small working jib.

1040    Up jib.  u/w o/c 230-240ºM @ S: 2.  Wind NNW 5-8 kts.

1100    Near calm; drizzle.  Lighter sky to N, so let’s hope.  So much for thinking we were clear of the doldrums.  A shame to have such a small sail up, but until the wx looks more settled I think it’s the prudent way to go.

1230    Breeze coming up from N.  S: 1-2.

1330    Dead calm.  Swell from N.  Bare steerageway.  Guess it’s time to crank up the old iron jib for a while.  Eng. checks.

1348    Down jib; calm.

1355    Eng. on.  u/w @ 1500 RPM, o/c 235ºM.

1415    o/c 180ºM.

1515    Approaching squalls…

1650    Put reef in main.

1700    Up working jib.

1710    Eng. secured.  Light breeze from SW!  L

1715    Up single reefed main.  This is absolutely crazy – wind directly out of SW – our course – light breeze, sails barely filling.  Weird swells, black squalls all around.  It’s like some kind of vortex.  No rhyme or reason.  Squalls move contrary to wind direction, sky never clearing where it looks like it should.

1730    Sails slatting.  May just put everything down & get some sleep (only 4 hrs. last night…).

2030    Continued calm.  Down jib.  Heave to with sheeted-in single-reefed main.  Sleep….

 

21 June – Wed.  * Solstice *

 

0200    Continued calm.  Drift mode.

0530    Clearer sky;  some stars…

0536    Fix (3 stars & moon):  00º 51.1S – 162º 13.0E

            This shows us further W & S than expected.  Perhaps it’s a favorable current.  Very faint breeze from S or SSE so may try putting up lg. headsail.  Wx appears much more settled than yesterday…

0630    Unbend & stow working jib.

0640    Dead calm.  Looks like it’s time for some more motoring…  Eng. checks.

0700    Eng. on, u/w @ 1500 RPM, o/c 235ºM.

1145    Up lg. jib & full main.  Slight breeze from S.

1200    Continue motorsailing.  Barely able to fill sails even while motoring.  Breeze may be W of S as cannot hold 235ºM – o/c 240ºM

1210    Noon lat:         1º 04.7S

1400    More breeze from S to SSW.  Eng. secured.  o/c 240-260ºM @ 3-4 kts.

            R. fix:  1º 08.7S – 161º 41.2E

1500    Wind increasing & poss. backing more toward S & SSE.  Wonderful sailing!  S: 4.5.

1700    Wind speed stabilizing at 12-14 kts.  Direction shifting between SSE and S; but at least we can hold a course of 240ºM and as good as 220ºM.  S: 4.5.

1715    Said too soon…  wind decreasing.  Accidental tack/jibe.

1720    Back on course with slight wind increase.  S: 4.

0840    3 star fix:         01º 17.4S – 161º 28.7E.  SMG past 13 hrs:  4.0.

2000    Continue o/c 230-250ºM @ 3.5-4 kts.  Wind lighter but steady.  Seas slight.  Some shattered clouds, but mostly stars.  Hope it stays like this.  Very pleasant night sailing.

 

22 June – Thurs.

 

0000    o/c 230º-250ºM @ 3 kts.

0100    Wind down to a light breeze.  S: 2.

0300    Had a “passenger” for a while.  A seabird must have tried landing and hit the rigging.  He was hobbling around on the stern with a damaged foot.  Winds seemed okay, though.  Gradually worked his way to the stbd. qtr. and launched.  He flew!  Circled the boat twice, then was gone.  All the time he was aboard I heard his mate calling in the dark.

0315    Near total calm.  Only the hint of a breeze.

0530    While taking star sights a light breeze has come up from SE.  Let’s hope it keeps up…

0544    Fix (4 stars & moon):  01º 25.8S – 161 02.1E.  Average speed through the night:  2.6.

0617    A green flash sunrise!

0645    Near calm.  Eng. checks, down jib.

0700    u/w motorsailing @ 1500 RPM.  o/c 235ºM.

1218    Noon lat:         01º 41.9S

1230    Continued flat, glassy calm.  Large cloud buildup ahead, but dissipating into scattered clouds.  Hopefully with some wind.  Will motor ‘til mid or late afternoon, then shut down & drift if still no wind.

1400    Breeze from SSE: up lg. jib - motorsail.

1425    Xfer fuel from aft tank to top off main tank.

1438    Overflow at fuel vent!  Secured & cleaned up.

1518    Sun LOP for R. fix:     01º 48.9S – 160º 30.0E

1530    Eng. secured; down jib.  Continued glassy calm.  I’m beat!  Time for a rest & swim call.  Drift mode.

1600    Great swim, brief as it was.  Lots of wormy-looking egg sacs floating around along with surface skimmers and a fair number of Portuguese Men O’War.  Swam between the Men O’War no prob.  Then, after my rinse off, a big nosebleed.  Glad it happened when I was finished so it couldn’t attract sharks!  Wondered what if I couldn’t have stopped it – weird to be out here in the middle of nowhere & die of a nosebleed…  what a way to go.  Anyway, it’s a lovely evening and I’ll just wait for some wind.  If none comes by tomorrow morning, we’ll motor some more.  Will this ever end?

1830    Change out lg. jib for light working jib.  Some rain cells around and feels more comfortable with smaller headsail ready.  Still near calm…

1852    2 star fix:         01º 54.2S – 160º 26.1E

2120    Slight breeze from SSE.  o/c 230-240ºM at 2-3 kts…

 

23 June – Fri.

 

0200    Breeze from SSE.  o/c 220-230ºM, S: 3.5.

0548    Fix (3 stars & moon):  02º 09.3S – 160º 04.9E.  SMG past 11 hrs:  2.4 kts.  SMG past 24 hrs:  3.0 kts.  463 NM to go…

0650    Down working jib; up lg. jib.

0700    o/c 230-240ºM @ 2.5 kts.  Light breeze from SSE.

0730    Breeze filling in nicely.  S: 4-4.5.

0845    Lubricate Aries; check steering.  Lube wheel drum & boom winch (Barlow).

1030    Wonderful sailing.  Wind seems more SE than SSE.  Just abaft the beam.  o/c 240ºM @ 4.5 kts.  Hope it continues…

1220    Noon lat:         2º 10.6S

1230    Continued pleasant sailing – o/c 240ºM @ 4.5 kts.

1520    R. fix:  2º 21.7S – 159º 28.9E.

1630    Some passing rain cells.  Wind down to near calm L

1640    Wind returning J…  S: 4.0.

1845    3 star fix:         2º 18.0S – 159º 21.2E.  SMG – 13 hrs: 3.4.

2000    Continuing o/c 240ºM, S: 4.

 

24 June – Sat.

 

0130    Wind down to a breeze, o/c 230-240ºM.  S: 3.

0330    Continued light breeze o/c 230-240ºM.  S: 3.

0552    4 star fix:         2º 28.9S – 158º 42.7E.  SMG past 24 hrs:  3.5.  379 NM to go.

0800    Wind still very light.  o/c 230-240ºM.  S: 3.5.

0815    Approached by lg. pod of melon-headed whales – 80-100 (peponocephala electra) positive ID.  Tightly packed riding bow wave and on both sides of boat.

            DR:     2º 35S – 158º 36E.  Appear to be traveling SW (same course as me, as they approached from astern).  Several juveniles.

0930    Animals still accompanying boat, but more spread out with only a dozen or so on bow.  Some contact with tails, dorsals, and flukes by dangling feet over bow.  They knew I was there & kept coming back for more! 

1045    Animals still with us, although fewer, now about 10-15 with 6 or 8 on the bow.  Some appear to be mating or at least leading up to it.  It’s an X-rated show on the bow!

1130    6 Animals still hanging in there on the bow (3 couples).

1225    Noon lat:         2º 38.8S

1230    Animals still tagging along…

1330    6 rough toothed dolphins (steno bredanensis) riding in bow wave for about 5 min., then gone.  Melon-heads apparently gone as well.  Stenos approached cautiously, swimming a lot on the sides while just below the surface (spy-swimming?).  Very quick, sporadic turns & maneuvers.  All adults.

1345    Wind up & down all afternoon.  o/c 230-240ºM. S: 3.0–3.5.

1850    4 star fix:         2º 57.9S – 157º 46.2E

2000    Nice breeze from SE.  o/c 230-240ºM @ 4.5 kts.

 

25 June – Sun.

 

0000    Gentle breeze from ESE to SE 10-14 kts.  o/c 220-240ºM @ 3.4-4 kts.

0100    Slight decrease in wind.  S: 3-3.5 kts.

0200    Wind up & down.  S: 3-4 kts.

0400    Wind veering toward S and filling in.

0530    Wind holding S @ 10-15 kts. – S: 4.5  J

0602    4 star fix:         3º 07.1S – 157º 03.8E.  SMG past 24 hrs 4.4 (!)  272.5 NM to go…

0800    Moving along very nicely now – 4.5-5 kts.  Wx appears settled, so perhaps this wind (S @ 14-16 kts.) will hold for a while – hope so.  If it increases any more will put a reef in main to reduce wx helm.

1015    Wind increasing – 14-18 kts.  Single reef in main.

1235    Noon lat:         3º 17.3S

1245    Continuing o/c 230-240ºM @ 4.5 kts.  Wind SSE @ 12-16 kts.  Terrific sailing!

1500    Passing rain cell with brief 20 kt. wind.

1515    Back o/c 235ºM @ 4.5 kts. after brief calm.

1535    R. fix:  3º 22S – 156º 15.7E

1550    Down jib, squall approaching.

1600    Heavy rain.

1700    Drizzle, near calm.

1720    Up light working jib.  Still lots of dark cloud masses on horizon.  Better safe than sorry, especially with night approaching.  Wind back to SE now @ 8-12 kts.

1800    Wind increasing – 14-16 kts., sailing well now @ 3.5-4 kts.  Lots of clouds astern & on port qtr., though, so this may just be what’s in front of it…

1900    o/c 235ºM – S: 3.

2000    Drizzle.  o/c 220-230ºM, S: 3-3.5.  Black night.

2100    Wind E @ 12-14 kts.  Moving nicely even under reduced sail.  o/c 220-240ºM @ 3.5 kts. (poss. 4.0).

 

26 June – Mon.

 

0000    Wind very light from SE.  Drifting @ 270º 1-2 kts. 

0045    More breeze from SE; able to steer o/c 210ºM at 2 kts.  Very lumpy, confused swells causing undue rolling.  Still cloudy to SE and S with lightning flashes far to S, so will continue with small jib ‘til daylight.

0530    Continuing with bare steerage o/c 225ºM, S: 2.  Sails flogging a lot in the rolling swell.

0630    Down working jib; up lg. jib.  Very slight breeze from SE.  S: 2-2.5.

0611    4 star fix:         3º 46.1S – 155º 25.9E.  SMG past 24 hrs: 4.4.  166.6 NM to Cape St. George.

0700    Calm.

0720    Eng. checks; down jib.

0730    u/w @ 1500 RPM, o/c 240ºM

1000    Continued glassy calm.  Swell from ESE.

1240    Noon lat:         4º 01.2S

1345    Change out working jib for lg. jib.  Still calm, but large black clouds on port horizon.  Continue motoring.

1400    Black clouds closing n on 3 sides.  Prepare for heavy rain & wind.

1415    Eng. secured; rain & wind approaching from SSE.

1505    Wow!  That was another one that sneaked up from behind.  Two squalls converged with us in the middle.  One approached from SE, the other from NE.  Wind was N, the NNW@ 25-35 kts.  Main jibed & boom caught on backstay (Goosewing jibe), but I freed it okay.  Then just ran off before it.  Probably making about 5 kts.  Now it’s backing to the NW and WNW & abating.;  rain, too.  Blue sky astern.  A good bath & good push, but I think we’re in for more calms…

1530    Up working jib.  Wind NW @ 10-14.  o/c 240ºM, S: 3-4.  Drizzle.  This is really weird to be on stbd. tack!

1600    Rain, confused swell, shifting wind.  Rockin’ & rollin’

1800    Continued calm; drizzle.  Eng. on; motor in calm.  o/c 240-245ºM.  Down jib.

1815    Down main; motor @ 1500 RPM – o/c 240ºM.

1955    Up working jib.  Breeze from NW (!?).  Motorsail.  Very black, horizon indistinguishable – great for approaching Green Island…

2025    Up single reefed main.  Wind still from NW @ 14-16 kts.  o/c 240ºM.

2155    Dead calm.  Down jib; continue motorsailing.  No sign of Green Is. ahead, but very dark, hazy horizon.  Nothing on radar.

2237    Pinipel & Green Is. on radar 8.5 NM ahead.

 

27 June – Tues.

 

0115    NE point of Pinipel Is. abeam port.  o/c 240ºM.

0145    Up working jib; motorsail.  89 NM to go.  Must make 4.8 kts. to arrive before nightfall today…

0500    Increase turns to 1600 RPM.

0617    3 star fix & bearing:    4º 33.1S – 153º 41.0E.  SMG:  6.2!!!J!

            New Ireland Is. in sight ahead.

1520    Cape St. George abeam stbd.  Various courses to enter Gower Hbr.

1600    Down jib & main; u/w to English Cove.

1705    Anchored in 25’ @ English Cove, Breton Hbr.

 

28 June – Wed.

 

0600-

0500    Retard ship’s clocks 1 hr. to conform with –10 time zone.

 

a.m.     General cleanup inside and outside.  Laundry day.

 

29 June – Thurs.

 

            Many visitors.  Distribute clothing to many.

 

30 June – Fri.

 

a.m.     Change engine oil & filter.  More clothes to kids.

 

1 July – Sat.

 

a.m.     More clothes to kids.  Laundry day.  Visitors in cockpit; music, singing & big moon-moon in p.m.!

 

2 July – Sun.

 

a.m.     General cleanup.  Prepare for picnic.  Stow gear to prepare for getting u/w tonight.

p.m.     Big picnic at waterfall.  Magic, swimming, & eats. 

 

1800    Elias & Kao for dinner.

2000    Prepare to get u/w.  Dark night with distant lightning… eng. checks.

2115    Eng. on.

2125    Anchor up; u/w from English Cove to Rabaul.

2225    o/c 315ºM to Cape Gazelle.  Calm.  Continue motoring @ 1500 RPM.

2350    Approaching showers with wind (ESE).  Eng. secured; up lg. jib.  o/c 315ºM, S: 4.5-5.

 

3 July – Mon.

 

0000    u/w to Rabaul with lg. jib.  o/c 315ºM @ 4.5-5 kts.  Wind ESE 12-16.

0640    Cape Gazelle Lt. abeam port.  o/c 280ºM for Simpson Hbr.  SMG = 4.4.

0700    Up main.

0905    Near calm.  Eng. checks.

0910    Eng. on.  Motorsail to anchorage – Simpson Hbr.

0940    McKenzie Shoal abeam stbd., dead calm.  Down sails; continue motoring.

1015    Contact with Port Control re. clearing:  Proceed to YC anchorage, then go to Customs office.

1055    Anchored in 40’ @ Rabaul Yacht Club.

1100    Eng. secured.

1120    Ashore to Customs & Immigration.

1300    Cleared for entry up to 60 days as per visa (easiest clearing I’ve ever had!).

p.m.     Inquire about telexing/phoning Hong Kong for new sail order.  Will take measurements & do so tomorrow.  Errands to P.O. & some shopping.  Back to boat early to eat and then sleeeeep……

 

4 July – Tues.

 

a.m.     Measure #2 jib, working jib, & h.w. jib.  Make order for Lee Sails, Hong Kong.

p.m.     Phone call & fax to Lee Sails re. order with help of Trevor Wilson at Touche Ross Accountant’s.

 

5 July – Wed.

 

a.m.     Visit with Michael Orim re. Mensen[6] joining me as crew.  Will organize continuing education, passport, etc., so he can join Rhysling prior to departing Rabaul.

p.m.     Misc. errands, P.O., etc.

 

6 July – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Errands – SatNav received at P.O.

            Isidore sands cabin sides.

p.m.     Cut in white paint on cabin sides, then….. rain.

 

7 July – Fri.

 

a.m.     Check on reply fax from Lee Sails.  None.  Will try to contact them in p.m.

            Isidore puts first coat of white on cabin sides.  Up mizzen to change out new SatNav antenna.  Isidore begins preparing downwind pole for painting.

p.m.     Lee received fax.  Will try to get estimate to me ASAP.

 

8 July – Sat.

 

a.m.     Shop & pack goods for Mensen’s visit to family on Tanga Is.

1030    Mensen & cargo aboard m/v Christopher.

p.m.     Isidore returns completed (painted) downwind pole.

 

9 July – Sun.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Install new SatNav receiver.  System checks out okay.

1350    Eng. checks.  Prepare to re-anchor in better position in anchorage.  Eng. on.

1400    Anchor up, re-anchor.

1415    Anchored in 35-40’ in R.Y.C. anchorage.  Eng. secured.

 

10 July – Mon.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Check out Peter Sharp slipway for poss. haulout.  Hugh of “Restless”, Sydney, available in one week at K120.00 up & down plus K35.00 per day.

            Laundry day.

noon    Fax received from Lee Sails.  Cost of 2 headsails plus insurance, shipping, & handling:  $1634.00 US.  Arranged bank xfer using Visa.  Fax to Hong Kong informing them to start work on sails.  Time to completion:  2 weeks.

 

11 July – Tues.

 

            Fabricate new cover for Zodiac L/R[7] system.  Discard old blue plastic cover.  Fabricate covers for jerry cans – water & petrol.  Big day of sewing!

 

12 July – Wed.

 

            Install grommets in new jug covers.  Begin work on mizzen sheet block hanger (replace pushpit fitting, and relocate hanger on boom).

 

13 July – Thurs.

 

            Re-install mizzen sheet hanger on boom – closer inboard over pushpit.  Re-install sheet blocks – will replace lower block when one is found available.  Remove Barlow (reefing) winch on main boom.  Sand bearing pin & replace after lubricating.

 

14 July – Fri.

 

a.m.     Help John & Audrey on “Joyelle” to fuel pier for diesel and return.  Check prices at slipway office:  $195.00 up & down plus $65.00 per day on hardstand.  Too much! 

p.m.     Remove & inspect leaking galley foot pump.  Worn diaphragm.  Replacement kit won’t fit new pump!  Repair diaphragm temporarily until new one can be ordered.  Arrange return ticket for Mensen on Talair.  He was unable to return from Tanga aboard m/v “Christopher”.

 

15 July – Sat.

 

a.m.     Ticket to airport for Mensen.

            Shopping (K60.00 pickpocketed at crowded market !L).

p.m.     Mensen back from Tanga with passport papers, etc.  Caulk forward bulkhead in cockpit.

 

16 July – Sun.

 

            Rest day.

 

17 July – Mon.

 

early

a.m.     Fax to West Marine for galley pump diaphragms.

            Tighten mounting bolts on binnacle stand.

            Felix and Gabriel aboard to scrub bottom.

 

18 July – Tues.

 

            Paperwork submitted for passport application for Mensen.

p.m.     Visit to Tavui community school re. xfer certificate for Mensen and study materials.

 

19 July – Wed.

 

a.m.     Re-run HF antenna wire from tuner to mizzen.  Xfer fuel – aft to main tank.  Stow sails & bags in stbd. cockpit locker.  Errands.

            Main tank:  full.  Aft tank:  1/3 full.

p.m.     Install new anemometer cups with help of Stanley.

 

20 July – Thurs.

 

a.m.     To Tavui community school to meet with headmaster Mr. Sione and big magic show.

 

21 July – Fri.

 

            Errands.

 

22 July – Sat.

 

            Clean interior of boat by Mensen, Basil & Stanley.

 

23 July – Sun.

 

            Sabbath day,  rugby game.

 

24 July – Mon.

 

            Public holiday – relax – Remembrance Day.

 

25 July – Tues.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Replace leathers in head.

0900    Exercise engine.

0945    Eng. secured.

p.m.     Shopping.  Acknowledgement from Lee Sails – new sails were to be completed 22 July.

 

26 July – Wed.

 

a.m.     Schooltime – math & English.  Start letter composition.  Stamp album (geography).

            Laundry day.  Fill 2 propane bottles @ K5.94 each.  On hand:  3 full/1 m.t.

            Fax Lee Sails inquiring of air waybill on cargo.

 

27 July – Thurs.

 

            Shopping.  Fax from Lee Sails.  Sails shipped on the 21st.  Contact with Air Niuguini & Qantas.  Sails in Sydney!  Supposed to come to Port Moresby tomorrow.

a.m.     Schoolwork.

 

28 July – Fri.

 

            Correspondence.  Schoolwork.  Errands.  Check on Mensen’s passport & apply for Australian visa.

 

29 July – Sat.

 

a.m.     Schoolwork.  Repair (temp…) diaphragm on galley pump.  Shopping.  Check Air Niuguini Air Freight.  Nothing ‘til Monday….

 

30 July – Sun.

 

            Sabbath.  To United Church for morning service.

 

31 July – Mon.

 

a.m.     Schoolwork.  Exercise engine;  chg. batteries.

0920    Eng. secured.  Ashore on errands.

            Notified by Air Niuguini sails have arrived.  Arrange with Customs forwarder to clear Customs & deliver.  Cost:  K20.00. 

            Last contact with Immigration in Moresby via Touche Ross re. Mensen’s passport.  They will hold in Moresby.  Last minute shopping.  Clean cockpit sole & aft decks.  Scrub Puddle Shuttle bottom.  Stow new sails & deck gear.

            Continued aches & sore throat (since Sunday).  Slight headache.  Temp:  100.4ºF.

2000    Continued temp – 99.6ºF.  Begin anti-malaria treatment – 4 tabs Cloroquin.

 

1 Aug. – Tues.

 

0200    2 tabs Cloroquin + 2 aspirin – severe sore throat, headache.  Temp 99.4.

0600    Fever broken – pools of sweat!  Prepare to get u/w.  Temp: 96.8.

0645    Eng. on.

0700    u/w from Rabaul.

0800    Continue motoring into light ESE headwind toward Cape Gazelle.

1000    Wind SE @ 20 kts., up #2 jib.  Eng. secured.

1015    Up single reefed main.

1025    Cape Gazelle abeam stbd.  o/c 080ºM.  S: 4.5-5.  Wind ESE 20-25.

1100    Mahi-mahi landed.

1130    Onto port tack, o/c 230ºM – wind SSE @ 20-25.

1405    Onto stbd. tack, o/c 110ºM

1410    Kabanga Pt. abeam stbd.

1600    Continue short tacks toward Put-put Hbr.

1700    Approach coast 1 mile S Put-put; down sails, eng. on; motor to hbr.

1725    Anchored in 40’, Put-put.  Boys ashore to clean fish.

 

 

2 Aug. – Wed.

 

0630    Prepare to get u/w.

0715    Eng. on.

0720    u/w from Put-put Hbr.

0735    Up #2 jib.

0740    Up single reefed main.  Wind slowly filling in from SSE.  o/c 100-108ºM, motorsailing.

0800    Wind dropping & backing to ESE!

0820    Down jib;  motorsail with very light headwind.

0935    Wind filling from SE; up #2 jib.

1000    Wind up & down – still plenty of calm patches, continue motorsailing.

1020    Up mizzen to try pointing higher.  o/c 090-100ºM

1030    Wind filling in nicely.  Eng. secured.

1045    Wind veering (lifting) slightly SSE.  o/c 110-120ºM.  Delightful sailing!

1330    Tack at Cape Waum to make Breton Hbr.  Various tacks into English Cove, Lambon.

1500    Eng. on; enter Breton Hbr.

1515    Down sails, enter English Cove.

1530    Anchored in 25’, English Cove.  Collect water, wash down salt.  Moon-moon time!

1800    Continued fever (100.4ºF).  2 Cloroquin tabs.

2200    Heavy rain – fill port tank.

 

3 Aug. - Thurs.

 

0600    Temp:  98.7ºF.  Feeling better, but still foggy from drugs (impaired hearing); sore throat easing.  Clean cockpit & cushions.  General cleanup in boat.  Big laundry day in river.  Re-repair diaphragm in galley pump.

1700    Temp: 98.0ºF.  Normal at last.  Lingering sore throat and impaired hearing due to drugs.  Continue treatment.  Preparations to get u/w.

0820    Eng. on.

0825    u/w from English Cove.

0930    Cape St. George abeam port.  o/c 180ºM.  Motoring in calm.

1100    Mensen down with malaria.  Begin Cloroquin treatment.

1130    Light breeze from S!L   Up #2 jib & main.  Motorsail o/c 130ºM.

1145    Up mizzen.

1200    Wind up & down, S to SSW.  o/c 160ºM.

1400    Breeze from SSW 8-12.  Eng. secured.

1600    Wind filling in S to SSW.  o/c 140-150ºM.  S: 3-4.

1700    Wind shift to SSE, o/c 190ºM.  Hope it keeps up.

1900    Wind very light from S to SSE.  o/c 200-210ºM.  S: 2-3.

2100    Near calm;  bare steerageway.

2300    Total calm;  down jib.  Eng. on – motor awhile.  o/c 180ºM @ 1500 RPM.

 

6 Aug. – Sun.

 

0000    Continue o/c 180ºM @ 1500 RPM – 4.5 kts.  Total calm.

0600    Still motoring.  Calm but swell building from SE to SSE…

0630    SatNav on.

0810    SatFix:             6º 13.5S – 152º 44.7E

            SMG since departure:  3.8.

0900    Continued near calm; motoring at 1500 RPM.  o/c 180ºM.

1030    Down mizzen to rig cockpit awning.  Blistery hot day; not a breath of air!  Possible rain ahead, though…

1045    Single reef in main – just in case (pretty black ahead).

1500    Up #2 jib – chafed spot – down to repair.

1504    SatFix:             6º 47.2S – 152º 44.5E

1515    Up lg. jib.  Shake out reef in main.  Light breeze from S to SSE.  o/c 215ºM.

1525    Eng. secured. 

1845    Calm.  Jib down.  Main holding heading at 120-150ºM, S: 0.5.  Very light breeze from S.

 

7 Aug. – Mon.

 

0000    Light breeze from S; up lg. jib; o/c 150ºM, S: 2.

0054    SatFix:             6º 56.3S – 152º 51.9E

0110    Big clouds (black) approaching from N & NNW.  Down jib.

0120    Wind & rain from N!  o/c 170ºM.

0145    Wind shifting NNW – jibe; o/c 190ºM.

0200    Near calm.

0210    Breeze from WSW!  Lots of clouds around.  o/c 180-195ºM.

0830    #2 jib repaired (re-stitched seam); chafe patch added both sides.  Wind – very light SSE.  o/c 190ºM, S: 2-3.

0855    Near calm.  Eng. checks.

0900    Eng. on; o/c 180ºM @ 1500 RPM.  Down lg. jib.

1102    SatFix:             7º 26.3S – 152º 59.3E

1200    Continued dead calm.  Motoring @ 1600 RPM – SMG: 5.5.

1630    Continued glassy calm.  Enough motoring!

            Eng. secured; drift mode & swim call.

2323    SatFix:             8º 01.4S – 152º 50.8E

 

8 Aug. – Tues.

 

0000    Continued glass calm.  Drift mode.  Moving SW at approx. 0.7 kts.

0400    Breath of air from SSE.  Jibe (took ½ hr. to do so!).  o/c 215ºM, S: 0.5.

0412    SatFix:             7º 59.3S – 152º 50.0E.

0550    Breeze from S with approaching rain.  Up lg. jib; o/c 240ºM.  S: 4.

0605    Passing showers; wind easing.  S: 3.  o/c 240-250ºM.

0650    Calm.  Eng. checks.  Down jib.  Check start batt. – all cells good.  Xfer fuel aft to main tank.

1308    SatFix:             8º 22.9S – 152º 28.5E

1450    Light breeze from SSE; up lg. jib; motorsail a while longer…

1520    Wind increasing from SSE; o/c 215ºM.

1530    Eng. secured, Aries rigged.  o/c 220ºM

1650    Gawa Islands in sight ahead.

2000    Down lg. jib, change to #2 jib (approaching squalls).

2135    Dugumenu Is. abeam stbd, o/c 215ºM, S: 4.5.

2215    Single reef in main to balance rig.  Wind SSE @ 18-22.

2230    Kwaiwata Is. abeam port.

 

9 Aug. – Wed.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 215ºM with single reefed main & #2 jib.  Wind SSE 18-22, S: 4-4.5.

0224    SatFix:             9º 09.4S – 151º 39.3E

0600    Continuing o/c 210ºM, S: 4-4.5.  Winds SSE 18-24.  Seas building.  Overcast with rain showers around.

0650    Rain; winds 25+ (gusts to 30).

1014    SatFix:             9º 34.8S – 151º 12.0E

1115    Near calm!  Light SSE breeze;  o/c 235ºM.

1125    Up full main.

1130    Calm;  Eng. on; down jib.  u/w o/c 235ºM @ 1500 RPM.

1235    Wind from ESE.  Up #2 jib.  Eng. secured.  o/c 240ºM, S: 4.5.

1350    Near calm.  Eng. on.  Motorsail to enter Dawson Strait.

1440    Down all sails;  approaching Dawson Pt.

1540    Anchored in 15’, Paipainina anchorage – NW tip of Normanby Island.  Crew ashore to explore.  Landfall spaghetti tonight!

 

10 Aug. – Thurs.

 

0600    Prepare to get u/w.

0720    Eng. checks.

0725    Eng. on.

0730    Anchor up; u/w from Paipainina anchorage to E. Cape.

0815    Pass Dawson Pt. reefs; o/c 160ºM – motoring at 1600 RPM.

0820    Strong headwind & chop.

0845    Up single-reefed main & #2 jib.  o/c 190ºM.

0900    Eng. secured.

1124    SatFix:             9º 55.7S – 150º 36.2E

1220    Up mizzen to point higher, o/c 190ºM.

1230    Wind dropping.

1300    Eng. on;  motorsail.  o/c 190ºM.

1330    Eng. secured; increased wind with rain.  o/c 180-185ºM.

1520    Enter Awaiama Bay – eng. on, down sails.

1600    Anchored in 20’, Awaiama Bay.

 

11 Aug. – Fri.

 

0700    Prepare to get u/w.

0710    Eng. on.

0715    Anchor up; u/w to E. Cape.

0740    C. Hulana bluff abeam stbd.; o/c 090ºM @ 1600 RPM.

0840    Up #2 jib; up single reefed main.

0850    o/c 075ºM, S: 4.5.  Eng. secured.

0920    Near calm; shake out reef, up full main.  Eng. on – motorsail o/c 090ºM. S: 5.0.

0935    Wind increase – SE to SSE.  o/c 085ºM, S: 4.5.  Eng. secured.

1310    Down sails; eng. on.  Approaching E. Cape anchorage.

1330    Anchored in 35’ @ E. Cape anchorage with help of  “John the Pilot”.

1600    Trading for vegetables, fruits & shells with friendly locals.  Windy anchorage but decent holding.  May stay extra day for R&R & magic show.  Very friendly village.

            Thinking of changing total plan – rather than rushing to Darwin to get away by end of August (which looks impossible now), may stay in Darwin ‘til next season before hitting the I.O.[8]  Much better for me mentally & wx-wise.  Only problem is money…  Can I stretch it?!… Another challenge to meet…  By doing so it will give us a chance to see more of PNG & without a big rush to get to Darwin.  Just hope they have good facilities & it’s not too expensive to keep a boat there…

 

12 Aug. – Sat.

 

a.m.     Visit to village; magic show.  General rest day.

 

13 Aug. – Sun.

 

0600    Prepare to get u/w.

0715    Single reef in main; rig working jib.  Gusty, blustery SE winds.

0735    Eng. on.

0750    Underway from E. Cape to Samarai.

0815    Transit Hornbill Channel.

0830    Up single reefed main & working jib.  Wind SE @ 25-30.  o/c 200ºM, S: 4.5.

0920    Wind easing; up full main.  Passing showers.

1035    Up mizzen to point higher.

1230    Eng. on to motorsail thru China Strait (opposing current).  Lots of ship traffic!

1240    E. Iguari Is. abeam port; enter China Strait.

1315    Down all sails in lee of Samarai.

1325    u/w to Samarai anchorage.

1335    Anchored in 50’, Samarai.

1430    Lubricate steering.

1530    Visit with Lee, Debrah & Bob aboard “Chinook” from Cairns.

 

14 Aug. – Mon.

 

a.m.     Errands ashore.  Clear Customs enroute to Port Moresby.  Shopping, P.O., etc.

p.m.     Stow dinghy;  prepare for departure tomorrow.

 

15 Aug. – Tues.

 

0630    Prepare to get u/w.

0645    Passing showers.  Wind SE @ 15-20.  Some gusts in showers.

0700    Eng. on.

0710    Anchor up; u/w.

0745    Isu Hina Is. abeam port;  o/c 232ºM.

0800    Up #2 jib.  Very light breeze from SE to ESE; lots of rolling/yawing with swell.  Sail not filling properly; continue motorsailing.

0825    Gado Gadoa Is. abeam stbd.  SMG = 5.2.

0835    Wind filling in from SE.  Eng. secured.

0915    Down #2 jib; change to Maui jib.

0925    Up Maui jib; wind SE 12-16.  Sail looks pretty good after major repairs at Kwaj.  Very old, though, so don’t know how long it’ll last…

1040    Koia Yama Yama Is. abeam stbd.  SMG = 4.2.

1245    Baibeska Is. abeam stbd.  SMG = 4.0.

1300    Wind dropping; constant drizzle.  Eng. on; motorsail to make anchorage before dark.

1330    Vehi Is. abeam stbd.  Calm – down jib.  o/c 285ºM.

1500    Tree Pt. abeam stbd.

1520    Breeze from ESE; up Maui jib – motorsail.

1645    Down jib; enter Gabugoghi Bay.

1700    Anchored in 20’ near Gogohi village, Gabugoghi Bay.  Rain.

 

16 Aug. – Wed.

 

a.m.     Schoolwork.

noon    Ashore to fill water just from spring.  Bath time!

            Rain all day & night.

 

17 Aug. – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Dead calm;  wait for wind.  Drizzle.

noon    Still no wind.  Departure cancelled.

            Rain on & off all day & all night.

 

18 Aug. – Fri.

 

0700    Drizzle; some wind, prepare to get u/w.

0810    Eng. on.

0820    Anchor up; u/w from Gobugoghi Bay to Port Moresby.

0900    Turea Is. abeam stbd.,  up Maui jib, eng. secured.  o/c 270ºM.

            Set Aries.  Rain easing.  Wind:  S @ 14-18.

0940    Ava Pt. ab’m stbd.  o/c 265-270ºM.  S: 4.

1300    Wind dropping;  lumpy seas.  S: 3-3.5.

1345    Up main.  S: 2.5-4.

1624    SatFix:             10º 33.1S – 149º 26.0E

1630    Down Maui jib; up #2 jib (wind increase with passing rain).

1645    Single reef in main.

1830    Wind easing.

2258    SatFix:             10º 29.9S – 148º 53.9E.  SMG = 4.4.

 

19 Aug. – Sat.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 270ºM; S: 4.5 with single reefed main and #2 jib.

0400    Contact approaching astern; will overtake & pass stbd. side.  Monitoring Ch. 16…

0430    Vessel ab’m stbd.

0645    o/c 285ºM.

1242    SatFix:             10º 19.6S – 147º 57.8E.  SMG = 3.9.

1530    Re-run chafed Aries steering line (port side).

2100    Down main; o/c 330ºM.

 

20 Aug. – Sun.

 

0000    u/w o/c 230ºM with #2 jib.

0020    SatFix:             10º 03.90S – 147º 17.6E.  SMG = 3.9.

0845    Transit Basilisk Pass; enroute to Port Moresby.

0905    Eng. on; motorsail to chg. batts.

0940    Down jib; proceed to Y.C. anchorage.

1000    Anchored in 30’ @ Royal Papuan Y.C.

1040    SatNav secured.

1045    Ashore to check out Y.C. & proper anchorage.

 

21 Aug. – Mon.

 

a.m.     Errands – Customs, Immigration, P.O., Y.C., etc. 

1245    Customs Cleared.

 

22Aug. – Tues.

 

0615    Prepare to get u/w – shift within anchorage per request of Naval Defense Force (too close to their pier).

0630    Anchored in 40’.

            To Migration to apply for Stanlee’s passport.  To dentist to check broken tooth.  Appt. for repair Tuesday.

 

23 Aug. – Wed.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.

 

24 Aug. – Thurs.

 

            Shopping  - “Spin-around”

 

25 Aug. – Fri.

 

a.m.     To Migration for Stanlee’s passport.  To Australian High Commission for visas.  All done.  Confirmed that Gove is Port of Entry for Australia.  Obtain L/S[9] chart of Gove & approach.

 

26 Aug. – Sat.

 

a.m.     Laundry day; general cleanup of boat.

p.m.     Visit by Richard & son John (Joan Bellie’s husband).

 

27 Aug. – Sun.

 

a.m.     Re-lag manifold/exhaust joint on engine.  Clean contact on auto-bilge pump.  Check eng. start battery – add water to all cells.  Clean bilge.  Exercise eng./chg. batts.  Clean fresh water filter under head sink.

 

28 Aug. – Mon.

 

a.m.     Errands, shopping.  Copies of excerpts from Indian Ocean & Red Sea Cruising Guide by Lucas (loaned by Kelly & Linda of “Elm Street”).

            Will delay departure to 2 Sept. (Sat.) due to strong currents in Torres Straits before then.

 

29 Aug. – Tues.

 

a.m.     Dental appt. for tooth repair.

 

30 Aug. – Wed.

 

            To National Museum & Parliament.  Errands.

 

31 Aug. – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Work on new wx chartlets.  Fill water jugs; laundry day; clean bottom of Puddle Shuttle; stow. 

            Remove head flooring and clean sump pump.  Re-install.

 

1 Sept. – Fri.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.

p.m.     Clear Customs & Immigration for departure tomorrow.  Visit to airport Meteorological office to check wx.  Visit to Crocodile Research Institute.  Stow dinghy & deck gear.

 

2 Sept. – Sat.

 

0530    Prepare to get u/w – continue stowing gear, sealing hatches, etc.

0645    Eng. on.

0655    Anchor up; u/w to Basilisk Pass.

0805    Basilisk Pass Lt. abeam port.

0815    Up #2 jib; various courses to clear reef.

0820    Initialize SatNav.  Wind ESE @ 18-22.  o/c 271ºM.

0945    Rig Aries.

1000    Wind increasing 20-25 – ESE.  Wonderful downwind sailing!

1410    SatFix:             9º 29.7S – 146º 35.4E.  SMG past 24 hrs:  5.2.

1600    Continued fresh wind from SE @ 24-26 kts.

2018    SatFix:             9º 30.8S – 145º 53.1E

2300    Continued fresh wind from SE – 24-26 kts.

 

3 Sept. – Sun.

 

0752    SatFix:             9º 16.5S – 144º 44.8E

0805    146 NM sailed in 24 hrs:  6.1 kts!

1000    Overcast with occasional sprinkle.

1116    SatFix:             9º 14.6S – 144º 26.7E.  SMG = 4.4 L

1200    Wind and seas easing.  Continued overcast and passing sprinkles.

1700    Wind increasing to 18-20.  o/c 270ºM, S: 4.5-5.

1805    Bramble Cay in sight on stbd. bow.

1845    o/c 230ºM, 225ºM; enter Torres Strait (Great NE Channel).

1900    Up single reefed main.

2200    o/c 220ºM.

2350    SatFix:             9º 28.4S – 143º 27.3E.  Dalrymple Islet ahead.

 

4 Sept. – Mon.

 

0000    Enroute through Great NE Channel, Torres Strait.

0200    Dalrymple Lt. ab’m port;  o/c202ºM, S: 4.5.

0345    Arden Is. Lt. visible ahead.

0420    SatFix:             9º 45.2S – 143º 12.8E

0515    Sink/bilge pump line back-siphoning to bilge.

0530    Eng. on to chg. batts.

0540    Arden Is. Lt. ab’m port.  Continue o/c 202ºM.

0630    Eng. secured.  Roberts Islet & Dove Islet in sight.

0730    Dove Islet Lt. ab’m stbd., o/c 215ºM.

0745    W end Coconut Is. ab’m port.

0930    Bet Reef Rock (& wreck) ab’m stbd.  o/c 240ºM; enter Vigilant Channel.

1040    Sue Is. Lt. ab’m port.  SMG = 5.4.

1100    Sue Is. shoal cleared;  o/c 215ºM.

1230    Strong W current at Harvey Rocks.  Eng. on;  tack.

1245    Onto port tack, Harvey Rocks cleared.  Eng secured. o/c 220ºM.

1430    o/c 230ºM to Twin & E. Strait Islands.

1518    SatFix:             10º 28.8S – 142º 25.1E.  SMG = 7.9!  (3.66 kt. current)

1530    Comms. with Bob & Ersela on “Taktoo”, Paul on “Saline”, and Clause & Mildred on “African Queen” since “meeting” at Vigilant Passage & now anchored at Twin Island.  Tidal info. on Darwin.

1610    Enter Prince of Wales Channel; various courses.

1700    Hammond Rk. Lt. ab’m port – swift current!  o/c 235ºM.

1745    Down main; o/c 260ºM to Booby Is.

 

5 Sept. 1989 – Tues.

 

0000    u/w to Gove, Australia.  o/c 250ºM, S: 5.  Wind SE 18-24.

0420    SatFix:             10º 43.1S – 141º 12.6E.  SMG = 4.7.

0430    Carpentaria Shoal Lt. visible on stbd. bow.  5 mile turn (racon) by radar.

0700    Position report to Tony’s Net: (2100Z) – 10º 49S – 141º 01E.

            C = 246º, S: 4.7, wind SE @ 18, swell SE @ 2m, cloud = 100%, barometer 1011mb↑

0900    Engine oil leak discovered in oil pressure line.  Remove piping and plug ‘til pipe can be replaced.  Test – all okay.  Clean oil pan.  Add ½ qt. oil.

1040    Change to new LPG bottle in deck locker.  On hand:  2 full/2 m.t. (last bottle lasted 5½ weeks).

1428    SatFix:             11º 07.7S – 140º 25.6E.  Wind decreasing, 12-16.

1800    Wind continuing to ease – 8-12 kts. SE

1845    Down #2 jib, up Maui jib.  Continue o/c 240-250ºM.

2345    SatFix:             11º 16.6S – 139º 50.9E

 

6 Sept. Wed.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 240-250ºM toward Gove, Australia.  Maui jib only.  Wind:  SE 14-16.  Very pleasant sailing.

0830    SatFix:             11º 30.3S – 139º 14.5E.  Wind 14-16 kts.

 

1100-

1030    Retard ships clocks 30 min. to conform with –9h30m time zone (N. Australia).

 

1300    Re-run port steering line on Aries (portside at rudder) due to chafe.  Lube steering & Aries.

2322    SatFix:             11º 43.0S – 138º 17.4E

 

11º 43.0S – 138º 17.4E

 

7 Sept. – Thurs.

 

0000    o/c 240-250ºM with Maui jib only.  Light breeze from ESE.  S: 3-3.5.

0600    Continued slow sailing with light SE breeze.

1000    Continued light wind from SE to ESE.  S: 3-3.5.

1316    SatFix:             11º 52.3S – 137º 30.5E

2212    SatFix:             12º 00.8S – 136º 58.5E.  SMG = 4.2.

            o/c 280ºM to clear hazards E of Veronica Islet.

 

8 Sept. – Fri.

 

0000    Light ESE breeze, Maui jib only.  Various courses to round Veronica Islet & turn into approach to Gove Hbr.

0210    Veronica Islet Lt. ab’m port.  o/c 210-220ºM.

0530    Approach harbor entrance buoy.  Eng. checks.

0545    Eng. on;  down jib; enter Gove Hbr.

0650    Bulk cargo wharf ab’m port.

0653    Contact with Harbor Control  Instructed to anchor at Inverell Bay to await clearance.

0735    Anchored in 10-15’, Inverell Bay.

1130    Quarantine ashore.  All Customs, Immigration & quarantine formalities completed.

p.m.     Ashore to bank, P.O., & shopping.

 

9 Sept. – Sat.

 

            Hitch-hike to town & back.  Errands;  videos at Y.C.

 

10 Sept. – Sun.

 

            To church; then lunch with Rob & Rhonda & family. 

            Rest day.

 

11 Sept. – Mon.

 

0800    Fill water jugs; prepare to get u/w.  Customs will come after clearing “Rigel K” (Long Beach, CA – Rolf & Penny).

0830    Dinghy aboard.

0920    Customs aboard.

0940    Customs officials ashore; cleared for Darwin.

0955    Eng. on, anchor up.

1000    u/w from Gove.

1055    Last red channel buoy ab’m stbd;  o/c 000ºM.  Calm.  Motoring at 1500 RPM.

1340    o/c 325ºM to Cape Wilberforce.

1655    Anchored in 30’, Elizabeth Bay (Cape Wilberforce, W side).

 

12 Sept. – Tues.

 

0950    Prepare to get u/w.

0955    Up anchor, Eng. on.

1005    Anchor up; u/w from Elizabeth Bay.

1050    SW Bromby Islet ab’m stbd.  o/c 030ºM.

1100    Up main, Maui jib & mizzen.  Light breeze from ENE;  motorsail awhile…

1240    Eng. secured.

1245    o/c 015ºM.  Miller Is. & NE end Wigram Is. ab’m stbd. & port.  Breeze from ESE.  S:  3.5-4.

1300    Feels like an opposing current.  Weird wavelets and ripples on surface.  Fix by bearings shows SMG of only 2.6 kts. L.  Breeze should be pushing us at least 3.5-4, but seems as though we’re hardly moving.  Perhaps after the change of tide…

1400    Down mizzen to eliminate wx helm.

1415    Wind increasing – 14-16 – ESE.

1800    Down main, wind increasing to 18-22 – ESE.

1804    SatFix:             11º 23.4S –136º 46.0E.

2325    Cape Wessel Lt. ab’m port (o/c 320ºM).

 

13 Sept. – Wed.

 

0000    o/c 267ºM @ 4.5-5 kts. with Maui jib only.  Wind ESE @ 16-18.

1240    SatFix:             10º 57.6S – 135º 44.3E

1600    Wind dropping – 10-14 kts. SE.

1815    Near calm L.  Poss. 2-2.5 kts. progress to W.

2316    SatFix:             10º 58.1S – 135º 04.5E.

 

14 Sept. – Thurs.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 270ºM @ 4-4.5 kts.  Wind:  SE @ 16-18 kts.  Maui jib only.

0930    Wind lightening & shifting E/ESE.  Rig downwind pole.

1545    Lubricate steering & Aries.

1556    SatFix:             10º 54.1S – 134º 03.2E

1700    Wind appears to be shifting N of east (E to ENE)…

1830    De-rig downwind pole; jibe.  Wind E.  o/c 275ºM.

 

15 Sept. – Fri.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 270-280ºM with Maui jib only.

            Wind E @ 14-18 kts.

0335    New Year Is. light visible on port bow.

0345    Set downwind pole.

0645    New Year Is. ab’m port.

0812    SatFix:             10º 50.0S – 132º 57.1E

1100    Flyover and brief comms. with Australian Customs aircraft.

1145    De-rig downwind pole; jib.  o/c 255ºM.  Very light breeze from E/ESE 8-12.

1718    SatFix:             10º 55.9S – 132º 32.3E

2035    Jibe;  o/c 260-270ºM.

 

16 Sept. – Sat.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 260-270ºM and various courses to clear heads on Coburg Peninsula.

0026    SatFix:             11º 00.3S – 132º 04.4E

0205    Set downwind pole.

0220    o/c 235ºM.

0315    Cape Don Lt. visible on port bow.

0520    Wind shift to SE.  De-rig downwind pole; continue o/c 235ºM.

0545    Up main.

0610    o/c 195ºM.  S: 4.5-5.

0655    Cape Don ab’m port, o/c 185-195ºM.

0900    Eng. checks; eng. on.  Little cooling water coming out.

0910    Check & clear raw water intake filter (dirty – plus 4 fish!).

0925    Eng. on, all okay.  Motorsail due to light wind and opposing current, charge batts.

1046    Very slow progress through Dundas Strait.  Poss. 3 kt. opposing current.  Lots of overfalls, swirling water & “footprints”.  Surface fairly smooth; near calm (wind).

1320    Down jib.

1400    SatFix:             11º 32.8S – 131º 36.3E.

1730    Abbott Shoal buoy ab’m stbd;  o/c 230ºM.

1830    Maui jib up (wind from NNW).  Eng. secured.  o/c 230ºM.

 

17 Sept. – Sun.

 

0000    Very light breeze from WNW.  o/c 210ºM.  Various courses to approach Clarence Strait.

            Eng. checks;  add ¾ qt. oil.

0035    Down jib, enter Clarence Strait.

0200    NW Vernon Is. Lt. ab’m stbd – exit Clarence Strait.  SMG thru Strait:  7.1.

0700    Various courses to approach Port of Darwin.

0910    Anchored in 25’, Fannie Bay, Darwin.

0940    Advised of shoal depth by “Lou”.  Move within anchorage.

0950    Re-anchored in 4-5 meters.

 

            Ashore to check out Y.C.  Visit with Jim & Denise.  Birthday dinner for Stanlee.

 

18 Sept. – Mon.

 

a.m.     To town to check in with Customs, errands, etc.

 

19 Sept. – Tues.

 

a.m.     Fax to Boat Books for cruising guides.

p.m.     Install new oil pressure line.  Replace diaphragm in galley pump.

 

20 Sept. – Wed.

 

            Receive cruising guides from Boat Books.  Errands.  Order new dinghy.

 

21 Sept. – Thurs.

 

            Buy chart copies from Sam Foster on yacht “Jordis”.  Set up new aluminum dinghy.  Ex-“Puddle Shuttle” for sale.

 

22 Sept. – Fri.

 

            Errands, correspondence.  BBQ with Kelly & Linda of “Elm St.”.

            Forms from Customs & appt. to clear out Mon. 2 Oct.

 

23 Sept. – Sat.

 

            Visit Museum of Arts & Sciences

 

24 Sept. – Sun.

 

            Church, museum, movies, correspondence, etc.

 

25 Sept. – Mon.

 

            Errands.  Fill petrol & gas bottles.  Fax to Boat Books for charts.  Appointment for taking on fuel tomorrow.

 

26 Sept. – Tues.

 

            Laundry.  Pick up key for fuel bowser.  Start work on new dinghy chocks.  Rig fender board.

1445    Prepare to get u/w

1455    u/w from Fannie Bay to fuel pier.

1620    Moored portside to Fort St. wharf to take on fuel.

1710    Aft & main tanks:  Aft – 271 liters; main – 170 liters – 441 liters total @ A$.5581 per liter.  A$246.12.

1730    u/w to Fannie Bay.  Jean – Kiwi - & Cliff Ives aboard.

1905    Anchored in 20’, Fannie Bay.

 

27 Sept. – Wed.

 

            Return key & pay fuel bill at Aust.-Fuel Distributors.  Purchase oils.  Shopping for batts., etc.

 

28 Sept. – Thurs.

 

            Complete work on new dinghy tiedown.  Eliminate chafe on Aries steering block leads.

 

29 Sept. – Fri.

 

            Provisioning at “Rite Price” market.  A$430.00.  16 boxes of goods.

 

30 Sept. – Sat.

 

            Stow provisions.  To town for SatNav – will be delivered tomorrow.

 

1 Oct. – Sun.

 

a.m.     Pick up recalibrated SatNav.  Church.  Last fresh food errands.

 

2 Oct. – Mon.

 

0600    Prepare to get u/w

0700    Ashore to clean dinghy;  meet with Customs.

0825    Call Customs (late).

0900    Meet with Customs.  All cleared for Christmas Is.

0955    Eng. on.

1000    Anchor up; u/w from Fannie Bay, Darwin, to Christmas Island.  Motor in light headwind o/c 310ºM @ 1500 RPM.

1140    Entrance buoy “A” ab’m port.

1230    Wind NW @ 12-15, up main, #2 jib, & mizzen.

1245    o/c 320ºM, eng. secured.  S: 4-5.

1330    Wind veering slightly.  o/c 340ºM.  S: 3.0.

1430    Rig Aries.

1700    Continuing o/c 320-340ºM @ 3-4.5 kts.  Wind: NW @ 12-15.

2030    Onto stbd. tack – o/c 240ºM.

2130    Wind increase to 15-20 kts. – NNW.  o/c 240ºM, S: 4.5.

2330    Wind veering to NNW; o/c 260-270ºM.  S: 4-4.5.

 

3 Oct. – Tues.

 

0000    u/w to Christmas Island.  o/c 260-270ºM.  S: 4-4.5, with main, #2 jib & mizzen.  Wind NNW @ 14-18 kts.

0400    Near calm – S: 1(?)

0530    Light breeze from N.  o/c 270ºM.  S: 3.

0700    Continued breeze from N @ 8-12.  o/c 270ºM, S: 3.

            DR:     11º 59.5S – 130º 06.0E.  SatNav on.

0800    Down #2 jib; up Maui jib.  Continue o/c 270ºM, S: 3.5.

1100    Near calm.  S: 1-2.

1145    Total calm.  Bathurst Island still in sight ab’m stbd. on horizon.  Down Maui jib. Eng. checks.  Motor in calm.  Belay that… breeze coming from WNW, o/c 240ºM.

1230    Wind shift to N – increase to 20-22 kts. o/c 250-260ºM.  S: 4.5-5.

1300    Down Maui jib; up #2 jib.  o/c 240-250ºM.  S: 4-5.

1500    Wind dropping & backing.

1700    Onto port tack; o/c 300ºM, S: 2.  L

1730    Calm – down #2 jib.  S/B[10] for wind.  Charles plays with new bird friend.

2045    Light breeze from NW; up Maui jib; o/c 240-250ºM, S: 3.

2230    Onto port tack; o/c 320ºM.  S: 3-4.

2158    SatFix:             12º 25.9S – 129º 55.4E.

 

4 Oct. – Wed.

 

0000    o/c 330-340ºM @ 3-4 kts. with main & Maui jib.  Wind NW @ 12-16.

0130    Onto stbd. tack.  o/c 240ºM, S: 3.

0600    Near calm.

0615    Eng. checks; down jib.

0630    u/w under power @ 1500 RPM in calm.  o/c 275ºM.

0945    Breeze from NW; up Maui jib; motorsail.

1000    Eng. secured.  o/c 270ºM, S: 3.5-4.

1245    Near calm.  Eng. on – motorsail.  o/c 270ºM @ 1500 RPM.  Trying to get clear of land/sea breeze influence of Australian mainland.

1500    SatFix:             12º 23.8S – 129º 18.9E

1530    Up Maui jib; eng. secured.  Breeze from NW @ 10-12.  o/c 260ºM.  S: 3.5.

 

5 Oct. – Thurs.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 240-260ºM with main & Maui jib.  S: 3.  Wind:  NW @ 10-14.

0500    Calm.  Eng. checks.  Down jib (clean clogged raw water filter).

0525    u/w motoring o/c 290ºM @ 1500 RPM.

0800    Continued calm.  Motoring o/c 290ºM @ 1500 RPM.

1426    SatFix:             12º 29.2S – 128º 18.3E

1530    Continued glassy calm.  No sign of wind.  Eng. secured.  Prepare for swim call & bottom scrubbing.  Drift mode. 

1530    Numerous sharks.  Swim call cancelled!  Also lg. snake & jellyfish…

 

6 Oct. – Fri.

 

0000    Continued calm.  Drift mode awaiting wind.

0244    SatFix:             12º 29.8S – 128º 18.8E

0415    Very light breeze from NW

0420    Up Maui jib.  o/c 270ºM.  S: 1-2.

0630    Near clam.

0700    Engine on (jib down).  Motor in calm @ 1500 RPM.  o/c 290ºM.

1200    Continued glassy calm – motoring.

1608    SatFix:             12º 20.3S – 127º 39.8E

1640    Light breeze from W to WSW; up Maui jib.

1645    Eng. secured – time for a rest!  o/c 300ºM, S: 1-2.

1710    Calm; down jib – drift mode – some wind patches – predominantly from W for WSW.

1745    Xfer fuel to top off main tank.

2200    Continued calm; drift mode.

 

7 Oct. – Sat.

 

0000    Flat calm.  Drifting awaiting wind(?).

0538    SatFix:             12º 10.3S – 127º 40.7E

0630    Continued glassy calm.  Eng. checks (here we go again!).

0635    Eng. on; u/w o/c 270ºM @ 1500 RPM.

1130    Grease sheet winches.

1500    SatFix:             12º 08.6S – 127º 01.3E.  Service & tighten port & stbd. lifelines.

1600    Eng. secured – still glassy calm.  Swim call (?) --- no…sharks again.

2230    Breeze from NW.  Up Maui jib; o/c 330ºM, S:

 

8 Oct. – Sun.

 

0000    Onto stbd. tack – o/c 230ºM, S: 3.

0410    Onto port tack – o/c 300-315ºM, S: 3.

0638    SatFix:             12º 06.0S – 126º 47.2E

0800    Wind gradually backing to SW & increasing slightly.  o/c 270ºM, S:3-3.5.  Rig Aries.

1130    Calm.  Down jib; eng. checks.  Possible problem with throttle cable (cannot take above 1500 RPM).  Will check when engine is cold.

1145    u/w o/c 270ºM @ 1500 RPM.

1250    All stop.  Contact with seismic vessel “Magnificent Creek” on Ch. 68 – towing 2.5 miles [of] cable with buoy.  Stand by for vessel to pass.

1300    u/w o/c 330ºM to pass astern of seismic tow.

1445    Slow to 1200 RPM to let seismic tow pass clear (vessel now o/c 327ºT).

1520    Breeze from SW, up Maui jib.

1530    Eng. secured.  o/c 270ºM, S: 3-3.5.

1645    Calm; down jib.  Drift mode.

1830    Continued flat calm.  Drift (?) mode.  270 NM out of Darwin.  SMG since departure:  1.6  L!

2000    Continued calm.

 

9 Oct. – Mon.

 

0000    Continued calm – drift mode.

0204    SatFix:             11º 53.1S – 126º 25.4E

0410    Wind from NNW.  Up Maui jib.

0420    u/w o/c 270ºM @ 3-4 kts.

0500    SatNav acting weird (stuck on “compute”).  Switch off, then on & re-initialize.

0600    Wind backing slightly, o/c 255-265ºM.  Lumpy chop.

0630    Wind continuing to back.  o/c 240-245ºM.

0800    Onto port tack.  Wind backing to W to WSW.  o/c 300-310ºM, S: 2(?).

0900    Very slow progress.  Hand steering.  Seas seem lumpy & confused so perhaps we’re in for a change? 

0910    Near calm; eng. checks (here we go again…).

0915    Belay that – breeze up & backing more.  o/c 290ºM.

0950    Calm.  Eng. checks.

1000    u/w motoring @ 1500 RPM, o/c 270ºM.

1200    Continued calm.

1502    SatFix:             11º 50.8S – 125º 55.3E

1630    Continued calm; eng. secured.  Drift mode (rest time).  Dolphins about J, sharks about L…

1925    Continued calm; eng checks.

1930    u/w o/c 270ºM @ 1500 RPM.  Total glass calm.

 

10 Oct. – Tues.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 270ºM @ 4-4.5 kts.  Motoring in glassy calm @ 1500 RPM.

0250    Light breeze from NW; up Maui jib, motorsail.

0312    SatFix:             11º 50.6S – 125º 13.5E

0520    Breeze strengthening from NW, eng. secured.  o/c 270ºM, S: 3-3.5.

0700    Calm.  Eng. checks.

0725    u/w motorsailing @ 1500 RPM.  o/c 270ºM.

0730    Down jib.  Oil drilling ship & platforms abeam 2-3 miles port side.

0800    Finish wiping down main & upper cabin overheads.

1000    Install fenders on port & stbd. quarters of new dinghy.

1402    SatFix:             11º 49.9S – 124º 38.1E

1600    Light breeze from WSW, up Maui jib – motorsail.

1650    Eng. secured; o/c 270ºM @ 2 kts.

1830    Xfer fuel; aft → main tank.

2145    Wind backing to SE! (At last!).  Very light.  Down main; up mizzen staysail.  o/c 270ºM @ 1-2 kts.

2335    Wind dead astern; down mizzen staysail to prevent chafe; jibe; o/c 270-280ºM.

 

11 Oct. – Wed.

 

0000    Light breeze from ESE backing toward NE.

            Ghosting along o/c 270ºM with Maui jib only.

0100    Wind to NNE; up mizzen staysail.  o/c 270ºM.

0130    Wind NNE filling in nicely.  Smooth, steady sailing at 3.5-4 kts.  Set Aries.

0132    SatFix:             11º 46.4S – 124º 12.7E

0445    Wind from NW, down mizzen staysail.

0500    Up main.  o/c 270ºM.  S: 2-3.

0840    Calm; eng. checks.  Motoring @ 1500 RPM o/c 270ºM.

1405    Breeze from WSW; up Maui jib; motorsail.

1446    SatFix:             11º 54.2S – 123º 28.4E.

1545    Breeze – WSW – increasing.  Eng. secured.  Sailing o/c 280ºM with main & Maui jib.

1900    Calm.  Jib down – drift mode.

2300    Continued flat calm.

 

12 Oct. – Thurs.

 

0000    Flat, glassy calm.  Drift mode awaiting wind.

0640    Eng. checks.

0645    u/w @ 1500 RPM o/c 270°M

 

0700-

0630    Retard ship’s clocks to conform with –9 time zone.

 

0735    Light breeze from NW; up Maui jib – motorsail.

1030    SatFix:             11° 48.6S – 123° 10.9E

1200    Glassy calm, down jib to prevent chafe; continue motoring @ 1500 RPM.

1605    Breeze from WSW; up Maui jib, o/c 285°M

1610    Eng. secured.

1720    Wind increasing to 10-12 kts. & backing slightly.  o/c 270-280°M.  S: 3-3.5.

2300    Near calm;  o/c 270-300°M.  S: 1-2.

 

13 Oct. – Fri.

 

0000    Near calm; bare steerage.  o/c 300°M.

0120    Calm.   Down jib to stop chafe.   Drift mode….

0602    SatFix:             11° 37.5S – 122° 12.4E

0645    Very light breeze from NW; up Maui jib; o/c 240°M, S: 2-3.

1345    Onto port tack – o/c 300°M.  Poss. wind shift to WSW.  Still very light.  0-5 kts…

1545    Wind filling in from SW.  o/c 275°M, S: 3-4.  Set Aries (finally!).

1800    SatFix:             11° 37.7S – 121° 47.8E

1930    Continued SW wind – o/c 270-280°M, S: 3-4.  Decent sailing; hope it keeps up…

2330    Wind down to a whisper.

 

14 Oct. – Sat.

 

0000    Very light NW breeze.  o/c 270-300°M with main & Maui jib.  S: 2-3.

0100    Wind veering to W and increasing slightly – o/c 315°M.

0415    Try stbd. tack;  port tack still more favorable.  Back to port tack.

0525    Onto stbd. tack;  wind veering slightly N of W and increasing.  o/c 230°M, S: 3.5.

1000    Back to port tack.  o/c 300-310°M.  S: 2-3.

1426    SatFix:             11° 09.8S – 120° 48.8E

1530    Wind backing to SW!  o/c 270°M, S: 3.5-4.

1600    Wind SW @ 12-14.  o/c 260-270°M.  S: 3.5-4.

1630    Wind strengthening & continuing from SW, 12-16 kts.

2245    Calm.  Down jib;  drift mode.

 

15 Oct. – Sun.

 

0000    Continued flat calm.  Drift mode awaiting wind.

0100    Still calm.

0322    SatFix:             11° 05.8S – 120° 05.6E

0530    Possible breeze developing from S or SW.  Very light.

0600    Still calm.  Eng. checks….

0610    u/w @ 1500 RPM.  o/c 265-270°M.  Motoring in calm.

 

0800-

0700    Retard ship’s clocks 1 hr. to conform with –8 time zone.

 

1200    Continued glassy calm.  Motoring @ 500 RPM, o/c 265°M.

1410    SatFix:             11° 16.2S – 119° 13.3E

1515    Light breeze from SW; up Maui jib – motorsail.

1600    Eng. secured.  o/c 165°M @ 2-3 kts.

2320    SatFix:             11° 12.1S – 118° 44.0E

 

16 Oct. – Mon.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 265°M @ 1-2 kts. with main & Maui jib.  Very light S to SW breeze.  Hand steering with very slow progress.

0802    SatFix:             11° 05.4S – 118° 20.8E

0830    Field day dry storage locker (exit weevils!).

0900    Continuing with main & Maui jib.  o/c 265-270°M, S: 1-2.  Wind S-SW @ 4-8 kts.

1230    Wind increasing slightly from SSW; o/c 265°M.  S: 2.5-3.  Pleasant (but slow) sailing…

1700    Wind stabilizing @ 8-12 from S to SSW.  Rig Aries.  o/c 260-270°M.  S: 2.5-3.5.

1930    Wind moderate from S @ 12-16 kts.

2230    Wind backing to SE J.  Ease sheets…

2258    SatFix:             11° 06.7S – 117° 15.9E

 

17 Oct. – Tues.

 

0000    Wind continuing from SSE, with somewhat lumpy, confused seas.  o/c 265°M, S: 4.5-5.  Decent sailing at last!

0015    Down main to ease wx helm.

0045    Rig downwind pole.  Rolling & slatting with S swell.

0100    Up mizzen drifter.

0115    Down mizzen drifter – too much wx helm.

0145    Up main to ease severe rolling.  Downwind pole end fitting parted; secure pole.  Masts[11] & oars pulled free by main boom; re-secured.

0220    Main up & o/c 260°M @ 3-4 kts.  Crazy night!

1300    SatFix:             11° 03.0S – 116° 19.2E

            Wind filling in nicely from S to SSE @ 15-18.  Delightful sailing.  o/c 270°M @ 4.5-5 kts.

1530    Wind increasing – 16-20 kts.  Single reef in main.

2000    Wind continuing moderate to fresh from S to SSE.  Fast sailing!  o/c 270°M, S: 5+.

2220    SatFix:             11° 07.0S – 115° 11.6E

 

18 Oct. – Wed.

 

0000    u/w with single reefed main & Maui jib.  o/c 270°M @ 4.5-5.5 kts.  Wind SSE @ 14-18 kts.  Wonderful sailing.

0908    SatFix:             11° 12.0S – 114° 02.4E

0915    Aries steering line parted at rudder.  Repaired.

0930    Continued SSE wind.  Abating a bit.  14-16 kts.  o/c 265-270°M.  S: 4-5.  Wonderful!  J

1528    SatFix:             11° 13.9S – 113° 21.8E

            SMG past 24 hrs: 6.6.  Day’s run: 158.5.

 

19 Oct. – Thurs.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 260-270°M with single reefed main and Maui jib.  Wind SSE@ 12-16 kts.

0140    SatFix:             11° 29.2S – 112° 02.8E

0400    Down main to ease wx helm.  o/c 270-280°M

0628    SatFix:             11° 30.8S – 111° 25.0E

            Past 24 hrs:  172 NM! SMG = 7.2! 

1300    Lube steering & Aries.

1816    SatFix:             11° 16.7S – 110° 10.2E

1900    Continuing o/c 270-285°M with Maui jib only.  Wind SSE @ 14-18 kts.  Great sailing all day!

 

 

20 Oct. – Fri.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 270-285°M with Maui jib only.  Wind:  SSE @ 14-18.

0558    SatFix:             10° 57.8S – 109° 11.4E

            Past 24 hrs: 139 NM, SMG = 5.8.

1754    SatFix:             10° 37.6S – 108° 13.1E

1800    Continued SSE winds, 14-18 kts.  o/c 270-280°M.  S: 4.5-5 kts.  Pleasant sailing.

 

21 Oct. – Sat.

 

0000    u/w with Maui jib only.  o/c 275°M, S: 4.5-5.  Wind:  SSE to SE @ 12-18 kts.

0102    SatFix:             10° 31.5S – 107° 32.8E

1256    SatFix:             10° 25.1S – 106° 24.5E

1630    Christmas Is. in sight 22 NM ahead, slightly obscured by cloud & haze.

1830    NNE tip Christmas Is. ahead 10 NM.

2020    Approaching NNE point of Christmas Island.  o/c 270°M with Maui jib only.

2100    Eng. on.

2125    Jib down, approach anchorage.

2200    Anchored in 40’, Flying Fish Cove, Christmas Island.

 

22 Oct. – Sun.

 

0800    Ashore to check in with Customs & Immigration.

0830    Police station closed.  Informed by Police on telephone (Mr. Rod) that we can go ashore and then take care of formalities on Monday a.m. 

1000    Load grease gun cartridges.  Check Aries mounts – rotate and lube all.  Some wear on uppers.

1405    Prepare to shift in Anchorage.

1410    Anchor up, u/w.

1425    Anchored in 40’, S corner Flying Fish Cove.

 

23 Oct. – Mon.

 

0630    Check eng. start battery.

            Change eng. oil, clean bilge.

0830    Clear Customs & Immigration.  Arrange for taking on fuel tomorrow.  “Tour” island with Jim & Frances.

 

24 Oct. – Tues.

 

0800    Arrangements with Harbormaster for fuel.  Will carry out in containers with help of “Dionysis” crew & dinghy.

1100    Aft fuel tank topped off with 145 liters diesel; main tank full.

1230    Top off port water tank.  All fresh water tanks full.

1430    Top off LPG tank.  All full.  A$4.00/kilo = A$18.00 for 4.5 kilos.

1900    Big magic show at Yacht Club.

 

25 Oct. – Wed.

 

0900    Ashore for last minute shopping.  Magic show at noon for pre-schoolers.

1930    Magic show at Malay Club.

 

26 Oct. – Thurs.

 

0700    Preparations for getting u/w.

0930    Port clearance from Harbormaster.

1000    Shopping – fresh goods.

1130    Dinghy aboard and stowed.

1200    Eng. on.

1210    u/w from Flying Fish Cove, Christmas Island.  o/c 270°M @ 1500 RPM.  Charging batteries, motoring from lee side of island.

1300    Wind SSE; up #2 jib, motorsail.

1405    Eng. secured.  o/c 260°M.  S: 4.  Rig Aries.

1430    Down #2 jib, up Maui jib.  Wind SSE @ 12-16 kts.

1450    o/c 260°M @ 4 kts.

1730    Winds continuing from SSE @ 12-16.  Pleasant sailing.

2332    SatFix:             10° 34.2S – 104° 48.5E

 

27 Oct. – Fri.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 260°M with Maui jib only.  S: 4.5.

            Moving nicely but lots of animation due to large swell from S.  Wind SSE 12-16.

0700    Wind dropping to 10-12 kts.  Still lots of motion.

0932    SatFix:             10° 46.3S – 104° 07.0E

1200    Very light breeze from SSE, 6-10 kts.  Some high cirrus mare’s tails in sky.  Possible change ahead?

1530    Wind increasing with approaching showers from SSW…

2000    Wind increasing – SSW @ 14-18 kts.  Lovely sailing!

2310    SatFix:             10° 57.4S – 103° 18.1E

 

28 Oct. – Sat.

 

0000    o/c 250-260°M.  S: 4.5.  Wind SSE @ 14-16.  Maui jib only.

0704    SatFix:             11° 08.7S – 102° 43.9E

0830    Wind increasing – 16-18, poss. 20 with dark clouds ahead.

0900    Passing showers (drizzle).

0950    Wind slacking & shifting to SSW.  Seas confused.  /c 290°M, S: 3.

1005    Eng. on to charge batteries – motorsail o/c 275°M.

1055    Down jib to prevent chafe.

1225    Breeze from S.  Up Maui jib; eng. secured.  o/c 260°M.  S: 4.5.

1230    While motoring we passed thru an area of total glass calm for nearly one hour, even though the pilot chart shows zero percent chance of calms here!

1416    SatFix:             11° 13.5S – 102° 13.6E

1430    Wind up & down since noon; some rain showers in area.  Generally S to SSE wind 2-12 kts.

2246    SatFix:             11° 21.7S – 101° 30.1E

 

29 Oct. – Sun.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 250-260°M @ 4-4.5 kts. with Maui jib only.

0445    Passing showers with wind increase.

0515    Wind drop and confused seas… after showers.

0545    Wind filling in from SE.

0630    Good steady SE to SSE wind 14-18 kts.

0802    SatFix:             11° 33.0S – 100° 44.9E.  SMG past 24 hrs. = 4.8.

1400    Moderate SE winds 16-18 – delightful tradewind sailing.  o/c 260°M @ 5 kts.

2334    SatFix:             11° 48.4S – 99° 06.5E

 

30 Oct.  – Mon.

 

0000    o/c 260°M @ 5-5.5 kts. with Maui jib only.  Wind:  SE @ 14-18 kts.  Occasional passing showers accompanied by stronger winds.

0908    SatFix:             12° 01.3S – 09° 02.6E

1314    Continued SE to ESE winds – 18-24.  Seas 3m.  Wonderful downhill sailing!

1700    Cocos-Keeling Is. in sight ahead, approx. 10-12 miles.

1855    Direction Is. abeam port side.

1900    Eng. on.

1920    Anchored in 25’, Port Refuge Cove, Cocos Is.  Quarantine notified.  Just inside lee of atoll for protection though the night.  Then will shift to Direction Island anchorage.  Quite bouncy & strong (20-15+) winds, but steady & anchor appears dug in (250’ out).  Will check periodically thru night.

            Too windy for kerosene anchor light… anything’s better than a night hove-to at sea, though…

2300    Anchor check – all okay.

 

31 Oct. - Tues.    [Smiling Jack O’Lantern][12]

 

0100    Anchored in 25’, Port Refuge, Cocos Is.  Anchor check – all okay.

 

0600-

0530    Retard ship’s clocks to conform with –6:30 time zone.  Awaiting favorable light (mid-morning) to transit coral areas & approach Direction Island anchorage.

0830    Prepare to get u/w.  Eng. checks.

0835    Eng. on.

0850    Anchor up; u/w to Direction Is. anchorage.

0910    Anchored in 25’ near Quarantine buoy at Direction Is., Cocos; awaiting clearance.  Replace binnacle light wire. 

1145    Cleared by Health/Quarantine.

1225    Eng. on, prepare to shift in anchorage.

1245    Eng. secured.

1300    Mensen & Stanlee off to see “The Rip”, and Capt. has lagoon windsurfing session.

 

1 Nov. – Wed.

 

a.m.     Begin scrubbing bottom.  Repair broken cutting board handle. 

            Clearance form & boat info. sheet to Harbormaster.

            Fabricate new jib sheets.

 

2 Nov. – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Finish cutting board repair.  Continue bottom scrubbing.  Fabricate Rhysling signboard for yacht post ashore on D.I.   Tighten head pump packing.  Re-install binnacle light switch.

 

3 Nov. – Fri.

 

a.m.     Clean cockpit and cushions.  Baking day.  Top off wash water jugs.  Rest day.

 

4 Nov. – Sat.

 

0600    Prepare to get u/w.  Stow & tie down.

0805    Eng. on.

0815    Anchor up; u/w from Cocos Is. to Galle, Sri Lanka.

0835    Up Maui jib; motorsail to charge batteries.

0930    Eng. secured.  o/c 320°M with Maui jib only.  Wind ESE@ 18-22 kts., Lovely downwind sailing! S: 4.5-5.

1300    Wind easing a bit, but still favorable.  S: 4-4.5.

1900    Continuing o/c 320°M @ 4.5-5 kts.  Wind steady at 16-18 kts., ESE.  So far, so good…

1800    DR:                 11° 30S – 96° 16E

 

5 Nov. – Sun.

 

0000    o/c 320-330°M @ 4.5-5 kts. with Maui jib only.  Wind ESE 16-18 kts.

0600    DR:                 10° 48S – 95° 38E.  Wind down to 12-14 kts., ESE.

1415    Tighten steering mounts and check all.  Lubricate steering & Aries.

1900    Continuing o/c 320-330°M @ 4.5-5 kts.

2232    SatFix:             9° 44.0S – 94° 08.5E

            SMG = 4.9, CMG = 323°M.

 

6 Nov. – Mon.

 

0000    o/c 320-330°M @ 4.5-5 kts. with Maui jib only.  Wind ESE @ 12-16 kts.

0030    Heavy dark clouds approaching from ESE

0040    Slight wind increase with passing showers.

0600    Wind down to 12-14 with shift to E.   Some isolated showers in area.

0900    Wind up to 14-18 kts.  Good downwind sailing; back to ESE again.

1100    Generally cloudy and overcast, but cool and settled.  Very pleasant sailing with light swell from ESE.

1208    SatFix:             8° 56.4S – 93° 20.1E.  SMG = 5.3.

2000    Continuing o/c 320-330°M @ 4.5-5 kts.  Wind: ESE @ 14-18 kts.  Seas slight.  Lovely downwind sailing.

2342    SatFix:             8° 19.5S – 92° 39.9E

 

7 Nov. – Tues.

 

0000    Wind drop after passing showers.  Very light ESE breeze…  o/c 320-340°M, S: 3-3.5.  Maui jib only.

0115    Wind shift to SSE with approaching shower.  o/c 340°M.

0130    Near calm.

0210    Wind filling in again.

0445    Wind shift to S - jibe – o/c 320°M.

0718    SatFix:             7° 55.8S – 92° 21.3E

1000    Eng. on to charge batteries; motorsail.  Near calm after passing showers.  Begin work on Sri Lanka courtesy flag.  Check raw water strainer; pump possibly losing prime.  Will check in Sri Lanka.

1115    Eng. secured.  Wind filling in from S with approaching showers.

1100    Wind shifting & up & down with surrounding showers and drizzle.

1706    SatFix:             7° 18.6S – 91° 46.5E

1900    o/c 320-240°M with Maui jib only.  Wind generally S but shifting slightly with passing showers (rain most of day).

2230    Wind shift – jibe.  o/c 330-340°M

2330    Continued light, shifty winds with showers around.

2354    SatFix:             6° 58.3S – 91° 22.5E

 

8 Nov. – Wed.

 

0000    Winds S @ 8-12 kts.  o/c 340-350°M with Maui jib only.  Wind speed & direction shifting due to local showers in area.

0120    Wind shift to W(!) – jibe.  o/c 330°M.  More black clouds approaching….

0400    Steady rain.

0420    Wind shift to S.

0500    Rain easing to drizzle; wind back to WSW, near calm.

0530    Continued drizzle, near calm…

1308    SatFix:             6° 02.2S – 90° 45.2E.  SMG = 5.2.

1915    Wind down to 8-10 from WSW…. up main; o/c 330°M @ 4-4.5 kts.  Seas slight.

 

9 Nov. – Thurs.

 

0000    o/c 330°M @ 4-4.5 kts. with main & Maui jib.  Wind WSW @ 8-10 kts., seas slight.  Effortless upwind sailing…

0556    SatFix:             5° 16.5S – 90° 11.5E.  SMG = 5.2.

0600    Wind filling in nicely from W to WSW.  S: 4.5-5.

1015    Wind veering to WNW.  330-340°M is the best we can do…  Wind 14-18 kts.

1230    Passing showers with increased winds.

1245    Wind easing.

1300    Near calm – S: 2.0.

1330    Light shower with wind.

1335    Shower passed but wind holding…. W to WSW.

1340    Wind dropping again  L.

1430    Wind filling in – WNW @ 12-14.

1600    Decent sailing with WNW wind 14-16.

1816    SatFix:             4° 22.2S – 89° 53.0E

2200    Near calm.  Light showers in area.

2220    Some wind from NW; o/c 020°M.  L…

2250    Light breeze from NW; possibly caused by large black clouds to SW.

2300    Engine on to motorsail, charge batteries & (maybe) find wind….

2346    SatFix:             4° 04.5S – 89° 53.5E

 

10 Nov. – Fri.

 

0000    Motorsailing with main only @ 1500 RPM to charge batteries and find wind.  Rain clouds to west.  o/c 310°M.

0120    Eng. secured.  Passing showers with squall.  o/c 310°M@ 2-2.5 kts.

0130    Moderate WNW wind; up Maui jib; o/c 320-330°M, 4-4.5 kts.  Rain.

0532    Wind filling in nicely from west @ 16-18 kts.  o/c 320°M @ 4.5-5 kts.

1224    SatFix:             3° 25.1S – 89° 23.3E

            Easy going sailing all afternoon.

1915    Passing showers – near calm…

2310    SatFix:             2° 56.8S – 88° 55.3E

 

11 Nov. – Sat.

 

0000    u/w with Maui jib & main o/c 310-330°M.  S: 4-4.5.  Wind W @ 12-14.  Good settled weather & steady sailing.

1244    SatFix:             2° 23.0S – 88° 09.7E.  Passing showers.

1730    Near calm.  Variable winds – speed up & down…

 

12 Nov. – Sun.

 

0000    Very light breeze from NW.  o/c 340-350°M with main & Maui jib.  S: 3.5-4.

0030    SatFix:             01° 51.2S – 88° 07.5E

0250    Total calm.  Down jib; prepare to motor in calm.

0310    Eng. on.  u/w o/c 310°M @ 1500 RPM.

0900    Continued glassy calm with isolated “hanging” showers.  Truly doldrum weather.

1015    Down main to prevent chafe.

1128    SatFix:             01° 21.8S – 87° 31.9E

1500    Light breeze from WNW; up Maui jib.

1555    Eng. secured.  Drift/sail(?) mode.

 

1800    Visit by Davy Jones to bring to trial two slimy pollywogs – Charles & Stanlee.  Court verdict:  Guilty!  To be initiated into the solemn realms of the deep on the morrow….

 

1845    Xfer fuel; eng. checks.

1900    Eng. on; u/w @ 1500 RPM, motoring through doldrums.

1930    Light breeze from WNW; up Maui jib – motorsail.

2030    Up main; continue motorsailing…

2300    SatFix:             00° 43.8S – 87° 08.2E.

 

13 Nov. – Mon.

 

0000    u/w motorsailing @ 1500 RPM with main & Maui jib.  Light breeze from WNW.

0020    Engine secured.  o/c 310-320°M.

0600    Wind veering more N of W.  Lots of heavy rain clouds around horizon.

0620    Wind increasing with approaching squalls.  Ease sheets.

0630    Down jib due to increased wind.  Contact on bow – moving WSW.

0700    Wind to 40 kts., veering N of W.  o/c 350-000°M

0800    Wind easing; rain down to a drizzle.  Up Maui jib. o/c 330°M @ 4-4.5 kts.

0854    SatFix:             00° 01.0S – 86° 57.3E

0915    Transit equator - enter N hemisphere (crossed the line at long: 86° 57E).

1045    Wind increase with approaching squall – 30-35 kts.  Ease sheets.

1130    Gusts to 40+ kts.  Seas still moderate.

1200    Wind easing a bit – 30 kts.

1515    Total calm.  Eng. on; down jib.;  u/w @ 1500 RPM o/c 300°M.

1545    Set #2 jib in preparation for more possible squalls.

1700    Continued motorsailing with main & #2 jib @ 1500 RPM.  o/c 300°M.  Lots of black clouds & rain to west.

1745    Down jib;  passing rain.  Continue motorsailing.  Little wind.

2010    Up #2 jib.  Light NW breeze.  Showers.

2020    Eng. secured.  o/c 000°M, S: 4.

2332    SatFix:             0° 59.7N – 86° 40.5E

 

14 Nov. – Tues.

 

0000    o/c 330-340°M @ 4-4.5 kts. with main & #2 jib.  Wind WNW to NW @ 14-16.

0155    Contact on stbd. bow.  Large ship moving approx. W to WSW across bow.

0220    Second contact on port bow – on horizon.

0800    Down #2 jib; up Maui jib.  o/c 340-000°M with very slight breeze from WNW to NW.  S: 2.

1330    Try stbd. tack – due to wind shift.

1340    Back to port tack.

1428    SatFix:             2° 06.2N – 86° 46.5E

1550    Lube steering & Aries.

1600    Continue o/c 340-350°M @ 2 kts. in very slight NW wind.  Hand steering.

1715    Wind backing to W and possibly WSW!  Increasing to 8-10 kts.

1800    o/c 305-315°M @ 3.5-5 kts….  hope it keeps up…

1900    Wind holding steady @ 8-12 kts. from WSW.  o/c 300-310°M @ 3.5-4 kts.

2245    Calm…

2300    Wind up again – S: 4-4.5 – o/c 315-330°M.

2304    SatFix:             2° 33.5N – 86° 31.5E

 

15 Nov. – Wed.

 

0000    o/c 315-440°M @ 3.5-4 kts. with main & Maui jib.  Wind WNW @ 10-14.  Up & down with passing showers.

0115    Steady drizzle; wind shift to N.  Tack.  o/c 270°M.

0125    Wind back to NNW – very light.  Back to port tack.  o/c 000°M @ 1.5-2 kts.

0200    Continued steady drizzle.  o/c 350-000°M @ 1-3 kts.  Light breeze from NW – 2-4 kts.

0445    Dead calm. Down jib.

0450    Eng. on.

0500    u/w o/c 300°M @ 1500 RPM.

0710    Contact on port bow.  Will pass close astern.

0750    Tanker vessel of “Sanko Line” passing 1 mile on port qtr.

0900    Continued glassy calm; overcast.  Motoring @ 1500 RPM o/c 300°M.

1100    Still calm, still motoring…

1210    SatFix:             3° 07.5N – 86° 06.8E

1555    Eng. secured with Maui jib up for radio sched.  (Still little wind).

1945    Wind shift to NNW 2/ passing showers.  Tack – o/c 290°M, stbd. tack.  S: 2-2.5.

2000    Wind decreasing…

2015    Wind back to WNW – tack.  Port tack o/c 330°M.  Wind increase with shower – 12-16 kts.  S: 4.

 

16 Nov. – Thurs.

 

0000    o/c 300-310°M @ 4-4.5 kts. with main & Maui jib.  Wind WNW @ 14-16.

0008    SatFix:             3° 25.6N – 85° 29.2E

0145    Increased wind (WSW to W) with approaching rain.  Ease sheets a bit.  o/c 290-300°M.  S: 4.5-5.

0615    Wind (light) from SW!  Slow, easy sailing.

0900    Continued light SW wind.  o/c 290-310°M @ 3.5-5 kts.  Pleasant sailing, albeit slow…

1010    SatFix:             3° 37.3N – 84° 53.3E.  SMG = 4.6.

1500    Passing showers.  Wind veering to W.

1515    Wind back to WSW.  Continue o/c 300°M @ 4-4.5 kts.

1630    Wind filling in nicely from WSW @ 16-20 kts.  o/c 300°M @ 4.5-5.

1815    Increased wind with approaching squalls & black horizon ahead.  Ease sheets.

1854    SatFix:             3° 57.7N – 84° 08.6E

1915    Passing showers – increased wind with shift to NW…  o/c 350°M.

2000    Continued NW wind with showers.  o/c 355°M.

2300    Wind back to WSW; o/c 300-310°M.  S: 4-5.

 

17 Nov. – Friday

 

0000    u/w with main & Maui jib o/c 300-310°M @ 4.5-5 kts.  Wind WSW @ 14-18 kts.

0012    SatFix:             4° 17.5N – 83° 48.9E

0200    Wind continuing from W to WSW @ 14-16 kts.  o/c 290-310°M @ 4-5 kts.  Weather appears more settled.

0500    Rain showers.  Wind W.  o/c 315°M @ 4-5 kts.

0600    Wind decreasing.  o/c 300°M @ 3-3.5 kts.

0640    More passing showers; drizzle.  Light WSW breeze.

0900    Continuing o/c 300°M @ 4.5-5 kts.  Wind:  WSW steady at 14-16 kts.  Mostly cloudy, but poss. clearing ahead.

 

1230-

1130    Retard ship’s clocks to conform with –5:30 time zone (Sri Lanka)

 

1218    SatFix:             4° 48.7N – 82° 43.5E

1420    Increased wind.  Single reef in main.

1440    Approaching showers.

1500    Continuing o/c 300°M with WSW wind @ 14-18 kts.  S: 4.5-5.

1630    Down Maui jib, up #2 jib.  Wind WSW @ 16-20.  Great sailing although close-hauled… o/c 300°M S: 4-5.

2010    Increased wind with passing showers.

2100    Struck by violent squall – winds possibly 40-50 kts. with heavy rain.

2120    Squall passed.  Clean up water inside boat…

2130    Wind resuming from WSW, 8-10 kts.

2330    SatFix:             5° 05.9N – 81° 41.5E

 

18 Nov. – Sat.

 

0000    Continued fresh WSW winds 18-22 kts. with accompanying lumpy seas (short chop).  o/c 300°M @ 4.5 kts. with single reefed main & #2 jib.  Not the most comfortable ride but making good progress.

0400    Wind & seas increasing with some white water over the house.  Wind 30+ kts., shifting to W.  Pressure down a bit…. o/c 330°M, S: 4.

0500    Wind & seas moderating now.

0530    Wind increasing again, but a bit more favorable. o/c 315-330°M – S: 3.5-4.  Short seas causing repeated pitching & stalling.

0600    Wind up & down with passing showers.  Seas short & lumpy.  o/c 310-320°M.  S: 4-5.

0618    SatFix:             5° 23.1N – 80° 54.8E

0815    Shake out reef; up full main.  Hand steering o/c 300°M @ 4.5-5.5 kts.  Really stalling seas caused by wind-opposed current.

0900    At sea “trading session” with local fishing boat – clothes for 2 tunas.

0955    Sri Lanka in sight on stbd. bow.  Continued fresh WSW wind – 20-25 kts.  Steep, choppy seas, but still sailing well with favorable current.

1110    2 contacts (large vessels) ahead on port bow.  One passing ahead, the other?  Listening on VHF 16.

1342    SatFix:             5° 50.7N – 80° 24.1E

1410    Black horizon, single reef in main.

1420    Torrential downpour with winds to 50 kts.

1445    Wind & rain easing.

1500    Eng. checks to motorsail to Galle Harbor.

1515    u/w @ 1500 RPM motorsailing.  Wind light WSW.

1520    Jib down.  Lg. black clouds on horizon.  De Galle Pt. obscured…

1545    Torrential rain with winds to 45 kts. Continue motoring.

1600    Wind & rain easing to drizzle.  Continue motoring hoping to reach Galle by sunset.

1700    Heavy rain – zero visibility in another squall.

1740    Clearing to drizzle; dusk.

1830    Attempt finding channel buoys.

1845    Abort – ship aground in channel.

1900    Rig working jib & mizzen.

1915    Hove-to on stbd. tack outside Galle Harbor.  Eng. secured.

2300    Continued hove-to on stbd. tack offshore Galle Harbor awaiting daylight.  Wind WNW @ 20-25 kts.

 

19 Nov. – Sun.

 

0030    Onto port tack; various tacks working back toward Galle Harbor.

0300    Up single reefed main to point higher.

0400    Down mizzen.

0620    Eng. on; motorsail in opposing current toward Galle Harbor.  o/c 300°M.

0920    Channel approach buoy ahead.

0945    Down main.

0950    Enter central channel, Galle Harbor.

1040    Anchored with stern to buoy, Galle Hbr., awaiting clearance formalities.

1130    Customs aboard & cleared.

1200    Anchor dragging!  Eng. on.  Re-anchor with 2 bow anchors & bow & stern to mooring buoys.

1630    Harbormaster rep. aboard for clearance.

1700    All cleared.

 

20 Nov. – Mon.

 

0700    General cleanup; rig dipole antenna, etc.  Awaiting clearance by agent & Health officer.

1145    Health officer (“Doctor”) aboard.  All cleared.

1215    Ashore to meet agent – Mr. Stanley C. – fees paid.  Port charges:  US$66.35;  agent: US$40.00 = $106.35.  To town for P.O., shopping, etc.

 

21 Nov. – Tues.

 

a.m.     Tighten shaft packing ¼ turn.  Correspondence.  To town – P.O., errands.

 

22 Nov. – Wed.

 

            Errands, bank, etc.

            Clean raw water inlet for head;  still sluggish coming in (?).  Dinner at Don Windsor’s[13].

 

23 Nov. – Thurs – 24 Nov. – Fri.

 

            To Colombo with Charles to collect parcel from Nick Franklin (Aries parts).  Also banking & airline reservation for Stanlee.

 

25 Nov. – Sat.

 

a.m.     Correspondence, errands.

 

26 Nov. – Sun.

 

a.m.     Draw up Christmas letter for printing on aerograms.  Clean & rehab. anchor light.

 

27 Nov. – Mon.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Ashore to agent to sign off Stanlee with Customs & Immigration.

            To printers & P.O. for making Christmas aerograms.

p.m.     Doctor appt. for Mensen at Southern Hospital (private).  Appt. for next Mon. @ 1100.

 

28 Nov. – Tues.

 

a.m.     Check with D. Windsor for courtesy flags & sail repair.  To Hikkadawa Beach for R&R.

 

29 Nov. – Wed.

 

a.m.     Shift Dick & Kay’s dinghy to yacht while they are away.  Overhaul outboard.  Lube, etc.  Change plugs.

            Remove main engine raw water pump; check lines.  Impeller bad; must take to shop to remove & replace impeller.  #2 jib (old one) to D. Windsor’s for estimate on repair.  Re-organize tool/work locker.  Re-lube & exercise all turnbuckles.  Re-tune lowers.  Make list of courtesy flags to order (25 flags).  Re-adjust & tighten raw water inlet on head.  Repair foul-weather gear pants.  Clean & repair anchor light.

1500    Strong wind from SE;  mooring dragging. Set small Danforth off port qtr.  Dragging.  Recover, set 35# CQR with extra chain & scope.  Holding.  Thunderstorm approaching.

1615    Wind shift to NE with approaching rain showers.

 

30 Nov. – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Pump to D. Windsor, pick up laundry.  Check on flags.  To printer to check proofs for Xmas aerograms.  Order rubber stamps.

p.m.     Estimate on repair of old #2 jib:  $50.00 US. Flags (25) - $70.00 US.

            Dinner at D. Windsor’s – Stanlee’s farewell.

 

1 Dec. – Fri.

 

a.m.     Off to Colombo by train to see Stanlee off at airport.  Mensen boat sitting.

 

2 Dec. – Sat.

 

a.m.     Return to Galle.  Check printers for proof of rubber stamps.  Some correspondence.

 

3 Dec. – Sun.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Christmas aerograms – 101 of ‘em!

 

4 Dec. – Mon.

 

a.m.     To hospital with Charles for circ. op.

 

5 Dec. – Tues.

 

            Recovery day for Charles.

 

6 Dec. – Wed.

 

            To Hikkadawa beach with yachties.

 

7 Dec. – Thurs.

 

            Pick up raw water pump.

 

8 Dec. – Fri.

 

            Re-assemble raw water pump.  Prepare to re-install.  Upholsterer aboard for estimate on re-covering cockpit cushions.

 

9 Dec. – Sat.

 

            Re-install eng. raw water pump.  Test.  Check transmission for poss. malfunction;  all okay.

            Big “dinghy” dinner avec Roger, nous ami français.

 

10 Dec. – Sun.

 

            Open & dry cockpit cushions & covers.  Siphon oil from transmission sump.

 

11 Dec. – Mon.

 

a.m.     Transport cockpit cushions & covers to upholsterer with approval of Customs.  Continue siphoning of transmission oil (very slow)…

p.m.     Security men aboard for Arak drinking after returning glasses.

 

12 Dec. – Tues.    - Full Moon Holiday –

 

a.m.     Laundry day.  Charles to beach.  Transmission sump drained.  Add fresh oil – BP 20/40 wt.  Check primary fuel filter for any water – all okay.  Bleed system.  Clean bilge (eng. drip pan).  Test eng. – all okay.

            General cleanup – nav. station, head cabinets, clothes lockers.

 

p.m.     To Unawatuna Beach restaurant for farewell dinner for Lindel & Bevis of  “Liquid Amber”

 

13 Dec. – Wed.

 

a.m.     To Colombo for bank business.

 

14 Dec. – Thurs.

 

            To Pinawala elephant orphanage.

 

15 Dec. – Fri.

 

            Return to Galle.

 

16 Dec. – Sat.

 

a.m.     Check with agent about port fees – due Monday.  Letter to Superintendent of Security re. return of glasses.  P.O., shopping, errands in town.

 

17  Dec. – Sun.

 

a.m.     Laundry.  Scrub bunk cushion covers.

            Tear down outboard to learn problem with no cooling water discharge.  Bad impeller in lower unit pump;  remove for replacement.

 

18 Dec. – Mon.

 

a.m.     Pick up “new” cockpit cushions & repaired #2 jib.  Check on replacement impeller for outboard.

noon    Visit to Karu & family for lunch.

p.m.     Re-check on impeller.

 

19 Dec. – Tues.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Outboard ashore for fitting new impeller.  Errands, Christmas shopping.

 

20 Dec. – Wed.

 

a.m.     Laundry.  Scrub bunk cushion covers.  Scrub around waterline.  Clean under forepeak & port bunk cushions.  Replace jackline on mainsail.

p.m.     Photo day in town.  Errands.

 

21 Dec. – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Correspondence, errands.  Pick up repaired outboard. 

p.m.     Xfer fuel – aft to main tank.  Exercise engine & charge batteries.

 

22 Dec. – Fri.

 

a.m.     Continue scrubbing bunk cushion covers.  Organize remainder of second hand clothes to donate to Sombahdi home.

p.m.     Errands;  P.O., shopping, film, etc.

 

23 Dec. – Sat.

 

a.m.     Scrub last bunk cushion cover.  Organize forepeak and lockers.  Repair foul-weather pants.

p.m.     Errands, shopping, look around town.

 

24 Dec. – Sun.

 

a.m.     Replace top mounting knobs for Aries bracket on transom.

 

25 Dec. – Mon.  – Merry Christmas – [xmas tree]

 

            Christmas day at New Oriental Hotel with all the yachties.

 

26 Dec. – Tues.

 

            Boxing Day (!?)

            Draw up provision list.

 

27 Dec. – Wed.

 

            Magic show at Sambodi Home for crippled children.

 

28 Dec. – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Scrub dinghy bottom.  Re-vamp outboard spark plug.  Exercise engine & charge batteries.

 

29 Dec. – Fri.

 

            Cholera & typhoid shots.

p.m.     Fever & chills for both of us…. rest.

 

30 Dec. – Sat.

 

a.m.     Off to Hikkadua for New Years weekend!

 

31 Dec. – 1989 – 1 Jan. 1990

 

            Happy New Year!

 

2 Jan. – Tues.

 

            Charles boat-sitting while I go to Colombo for final banking (US $ for Red Sea).

 

3 Jan. – Wed.

 

            Main provisioning day.  Stow canned & dry goods.  Total bill:  R$5723.90 = US$143.00.

            Return filled LPG tank.

 

4 Jan. – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Repair dinghy fender.

            Reinforce chafed areas on Maui jib foot.

 

5 Jan. – Fri.

 

            Rain all night & morning.

a.m.     Correspondence.

p.m.     Gusty wind from north.  Assist other boats who dragged.

 

6 Jan. – Sat.

 

0400    Increasing wind from WSW.  Some boats dragging.  Engine on to release tension on bow anchors.  Dragging some, but holding into wind with 1500 RPMs.  Wind to 40+ kts.

0500    Wind down to near calm with rain past.

0515    Eng. secured.

0700    Another squall (storm?) approaching.  Wind up to 40+ kts. 

0705    Eng. on – slow ahead.  Dragging slightly in company with others on moorings.  John dragging hooks our bower, but Danforth on port bow still holding.  Charles aboard his boat to assist re-anchoring.  Our stern line to buoy released.  All anchor lines buoyed & ready for letting go.

0815    Wind abating.

0830    Eng. secured;  Stand by.

0900    Charles ashore to meet Neel & Saro for visit to boat.

            Lunch, music, & games aboard Rhysling.

p.m.     Re-set stern anchor for better angle.  Stern buoy removed by assistant Harbormaster.

1530    Neel & Saro ashore – some problems with Police & Immigration man re. pass.  All in order but much hassle & humiliation.

2000    Swinging with stern to S due to no stern buoy.  3 anchors should hold us okay, though.

 

7 Jan. – Sun.

 

0700    Pull stern in line 2/ moorings using dinghy.  Stern line to buoy off stbd. qtr. to hold us in.  Wind from SSE.

0830    General cleanup of boat; laundry day.

 

8 Jan. – Mon.

 

a.m.     Replace bolt on head inlet valve.  Clean inlet seacock.  Re-set stern anchor off port qtr. 

p.m.     Top off petrol jug.  Exchange new case of soft drinks.  Check with slipway manager about going alongside pier later in week for fresh water  (flush tanks & top off).

 

9 Jan. – Tues.

 

            Visit to Priyantha family N for Hikkaduwa.

a.m.     Arrange for going alongside slipway wharf – 4 days, including water – US$40.00.  Payment made.

 

10 Jan. – Wed.

 

0800    Up stern anchor.

0815    Eng. on.  Release mooring lines to fore & aft buoys.

0955    Both bow anchors up; u/w to slipway wharf.

1010    Eng. secured.  Clean mooring lines and anchors.  Stow bow anchor.  Rig fresh water hose.  Stow all anchors.

 

11 Jan. – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Fill & flush port & starboard water tanks, add bleach.  Repair hand bilge pump.  Charles to Seenigama.  Bank & errands.

p.m.     Top off p&s fresh water tanks.

 

12 Jan. – Fri.

 

a.m.     Clean, fill, & stow fresh water jugs.  P.O., errands, shopping for fresh provisions.  Clear out with agent, Customs, & Immigration.  Preparations for departure tomorrow.

1730    Cleared by Immigration.  All cleared to depart tomorrow.

p.m.     Last dinner ashore with Neel.

 

13 Jan. – Sat.

 

a.m.     Stow & tie town.  Clean & stow dinghy.  Preps. for getting u/w.  Eng. checks.  All jugs topped off with fresh water.

1210    Eng. on.

1225    u/w from slipway pier and Galle inner harbor.

1250    Galle Harbor entrance buoy abeam portside, o/c 287°M @ 1500 RPM.  Bound for Aden, S. Yemen.

1400    Slight breeze from SW.  Up Maui jib & main.

1430    Eng. secured.  Wind lighter & shifting WSW.  o/c 300-310°M.  S: 2-3.

1630    Wind dropping;  4-6 kts. from WSW.  o/c 320-330°M – S: 2-2.5.

1750    Eng. on, maneuver to avoid fishing net!  Near calm; motoring @ 1500 RPM o/c 270°M.  Down jib.

2100    Light breeze from NW.  Eng. secured; up Maui jib.  o/c 280­°M @ 3.5 kts.

2300    Wind increasing and veering toward NNW!  Ease sheets a bit; o/c 280-290°M @ 4-4.5.  Rig Aries.  Good sailing now.  (Ship count:  4)

 

14 Jan. – Sun.

 

            (Ship count:  12)

 

0000    u/w with main & Maui jib; o/c 285°M @ 4.5 kts.  Wind NNW to N @ 14-18 kts.

0130    Wind increasing with building seas.  Down main to ease wx helm.

0400    Continued NNW wind, 14-18 kts., lumpy seas.  o/c 285°M, S: 4-4.5.

0700    Wind easing.   Up main.  o/c 285°M, S: 4.5-5.

0900    Wind increasing, 20+.  Single reef in main.

1030    Alter course to avoid refer. ship on reciprocal course; pass stbd. to stbd.  7 ships in sight!  (Ship count:  4)

1100    Wind increasing to 25+ kts.  Down Maui jib, up #2 jib.  2nd reef in main to avoid wx helm.  o/c 285°M @ 5-5.5 kts.

1428    SatFix:             6° 26.9N – 78° 03.3E

1700    Continued N wind @ 20-25 kts. with 2m seas.  o/c 285-290°M @ 5-6 kts.

2004    SatFix:             6° 33.1N – 77° 26.8E.  SMG = 6.6!

 

15 Jan. – Mon.  (Ships:  4)

 

0000    u/w with #2 jib & double reefed main o/c 285-290°M @ 5.5-6.5 kts.  Wind N to NNE @ 20-25 kts.  Fast sailing but wet.  Numerous boarding seas with swell on stbd. beam.

0245    Wind dropping to 14-16.  S: 5-5.5.

0800    Wind down to 8-12 from NNE.  Down #2 jib; up Maui jib.  Repair small tear in main.

0830    Wind very light; shifting W of N.  4-8 kts.  Up full main.

0900    o/c 270-290°M @ 3.5-4.5 kts.

0930    Lube & check steering & Aries.  Un-rig downwind pole & stow to repair end fitting.  Fresh ono on the line!

1318    SatFix:             6° 46.1N – 75° 48.3E

1400    Late visit by King Neptunus Rex.  Davy Jones & Royal Court to initiate Charles Mensen Nemil into Royal Domain.  (Crossed line at 86° 57’E, 13 Nov. 1989).

1700    Continued light air sailing.  Wind easing to N @ 10-12 kts.

 

1815-

1745    Retard ship’s clocks 30min to conform with -5 time zone.

 

2130    Calm.

2135    Down jib;  sheet in main.  Drift mode awaiting wind.

2300    Continued calm.  Drift mode.

 

16 Jan. – Tues.

 

0000    No wind.  Drifting with main only.

0030    Light breeze from E.  Up Maui jib   Too light – continue drift mode…..

0010    SatFix:             7° 02.6N – 75° 11.9E

0200    Down main due to slatting.

0915    Continued glassy calm;  eng. checks.  Eng. on; u/w o/c 290°M @ 1500 RPM charging batteries.

1200    Light breeze from NNW; up main & Maui jib.

            (Ship count:  6)

1215    Eng. secured.  o/c 275-285°M @ 3.5-4 kts.

1730    Wind dropping…

1815    Sound of “surf” off stbd. bow.

1820    Some weird “current” with small wavelets passing from N to S.  Quite loud “surf” sound.  Very little wind from WNW.  Very strange.

2020    Total calm;  down all sails – drift mode…

2330    Continued calm.

 

17 Jan. – Wed.

 

0000    No wind.  All sails down, drifting/rolling with slight swell.

0508    SatFix:             7° 20.5N – 74° 20.7E.  (1.1 kt. current setting 314°M).

0740    Continued calm.  Eng. checks.

0745    Eng. on; u/w @ 1500 RPM in glass-calm conditions.

1300    Continued glassy calm – not a ripple – stifling hot….

1530    Continued calm; eng. secured.  Drift mode – rest time…  Swim/bath time!  Clean waterline & intakes.

2012    SatFix:             7° 34.8N – 73° 41.4E

2202    Current appears to be setting southward now @ ½ kt….

 

18 Jan. – Thurs.

 

0000    Continued calm.  Drift mode.

0745    Eng. on, charge batteries/motor.  o/c 300°M @ 1500 RPM.

0845    Light breeze from N to NNW; up main & Maui jib.

0900    Eng. secured.  o/c 300°M, S: 3.5.

1436    SatFix:             7° 37.7N – 73° 16.6E

1700    Wind veering toward N & possibly NNE – moderate force of 12-14 kts.  Delightful beam reach sailing.  S: 4-4.5 kts.  o/c 300°M.

2300    SatFix:             7° 47.1N – 72° 41.8E

 

19 Jan. – Fri.

 

0000    o/c 300-315°M with main & Maui jib.  Wind:  N to NNE @ 12-16 (up & down).  S: 4-4.5.  Fine sailing with flat sea.

1044    SatFix:             8° 20.0N – 71° 41.8E

1100    Wind 12-16 from N.  Some whitecaps.  Lovely sailing!

1944    SatFix:             8° 53.4N – 70° 57.4E

2100    Wind easing; NNE 6-8 kts.  Seas a bit lumpy, but progress still being made.

 

20 Jan. – Sat.

 

0000    Continued light breeze from NNE.  Sea flattening out.  Main & Maui jib up.  o/c 280-300°M @ 3-4 kts.

0700    Wind filling in from NNW @ 14-16 kts.  o/c 280°M, S: 4.5-5.

0738    SatFix:             9° 14.9N – 70° 97.0E.  Field day interior.

1030    Mahi on the line!

1934    SatFix:             9° 32.7N – 69° 09.0E

2300    Continued N wind @ 14-16 kts.  o/c 300-310°M.  S: 4.5.

2330    Wind easing – 8-12 kts.  S: 4-4.5.

 

21 Jan. – Sun.

 

0000    u/w with main & Maui jib, o/c 300°M @ 4-4.5 kts.  Wind N @ 12-16 kts.

0842    SatFix:             9° 54.8N – 68° 07.4E

0900    Re-stitch aft end of awning.  Repair snap shackle on downwind pole.  Add grommets to courtesy flags.

1436    SatFix:             10° 00.3N – 67° 35.7E

1700    Wind increasing – 18-20 kts. NNE.  Single reef in main.

2000    Repair broken Aries steering line.

2008    SatFix:             10° 27.0N – 66° 30.7E

 

22 Jan. – Mon.

 

0000    Continued wind 14-18 kts.  Sailing o/c 300°M with Maui jib & single reefed main.  S: 5.

1654    SatFix:             10° 44.1N – 65° 15.6E

 

23 Jan. – Tues.

 

0000    Continuing o/c 290-300°M with single reefed main and Maui jib.  Wind:  N to NNE @ 14-18 kts.

0750    SatFix:             11° 15.5N – 64° 01.5E

0830    Ease sheets a bit, wind veering NE.  Some distant passing showers (ahead & astern).  Wind 14-18 kts.  o/c 290-300°M.  S: 5.

1600    Lube steering & Aries.

1946    SatFix:             11° 25.6N – 63° 03.2E

 

24 Jan. – Wed.

 

0000    o/c 280-300°M with Maui jib & single reefed main.  Wind NNE @ 12-16 kts.  S: 4.8-5.2.

 

0700-

0600    Retard ship’s clocks one hour to conform with –4 time zone.

 

1126    SatFix:             11° 59.0N – 61° 38.2E

2322    SatFix:             12° 10.7N – 60° 41.2E

 

25 Jan. – Thurs.

 

0000    o/c 290-300°M @ 4.5-5 kts.  with Maui jib and single reefed main.  Wind NNE @ 14-16.

0942    SatFix:             12° 29.3N – 59° 45.8E

1000    Wind from NE @ 16-18.  Lovely sailing!

2058    SatFix:             12° 31.1N – 58° 47.7E

2300    Wind to NNE @ 14-18.  Good, steady sailing…

 

26 Jan. – Fri.

 

0000    o/c 280-300°M @ 5-6 kts. with single reefed main and Maui jib.  Moving nicely @ 5-6 kts.  Wind NNE @ 14-18 kts., possibly up to 20.

0900    Some light, passing showers.  Seas building with wind increase to 20+ kts.  (NE wind).

0918    SatFix:             12° 57.1N – 57° 35.2E

2238    SatFix:             13° 06.5N – 56° 14.8E

 

27 Jan. – Sat.

 

0000    o/c 280-300°M with single reefed main & Maui jib.  Wind NE @ 18-22.

0200    Wind abating – 14-16 kts.

0750    Very close encounter with VLCC[14] “Eastern Power”.  Comms. on Ch. 16.  Passed 2 boat-lengths ahead of us causing us to alter course to avoid collision.

0930    Eng. checks.  Exercise engine, charge batteries.  No cooling water discharging.  Remove filter basket & check.  Remove raw water pump, check impeller – all okay – and replace. 

1010    Eng. on with cooling water discharge – possible lost prime from long sailing on stbd. tack.

1030    Wind increasing to 14-16 from NE.  Nice sailing.

1115    Eng. secured.

1130    Wind increasing 18-20 NNE.

1210    SatFix:             13° 17.1N – 55° 14.7E

2230    Wind dropping to 12-14 kts. – NE.

 

28 Jan. – Sun.

 

0000    o/c 280-290°M @ 4-5 kts. with Maui jib and single reefed main.  Wind NE 12-16.

0300    Enter Gulf of Aden.  o/c 270°M.

0630    Dawn – wind light from ENE.  Down main.

0700    SatFix:             13° 33.3N – 53° 48.7E

0800    Rig downwind pole.  o/c 270°M with Maui jib only.

1300    Continued light breeze from E to ENE (5-10).  Jib spilling wind & flogging with swells even with pole rigged.  SMG = 3.5-4.

2340    SatFix:             13° 34.7N – 53° 07.6E

 

29 Jan. – Mon.

 

0000    u/w with Maui jib only (poled out).  o/c 270°M, S: 2.5-3.  Wind:  E to ENE, 4-6.  Slow but sure….

0808    SatFix:             13° 29.5N – 52° 44.8E

1130    Wind increasing & shifting to NE.  Unrig downwind pole.  o/c 270°M, S: 4-4.5.

1500    Lube steering & Aries.  Wind shifting to ENE, down to 14-16 kts.

2230    Wind down to 4-8 kts. NE.  Seas fairly flat, but jib flogging about quite a bit.

 

30 Jan. – Tues.

 

0000    u/w with Maui jib only.  o/c 270°M, S: 3.  Light breeze from ENE, 4-8 kts.  Seas flat.

0208    Near calm.

0434    SatFix:             13° 30.4N – 51° 35.9E.  Wind finally picking up – ENE 8-12.

0530    Steady sailing now – 3.5 to 4 kts o/c 270°M.

 

0700-

0600    Retard ship’s clocks one hour to conform with –3 time zone.

 

0800    Wind freshening to 18-22 kts. – ENE.  Delightful downwind sailing!

1200    Winds:  20-25 NE – seas building.  Lovely run!

1240    SatFix:             13° 19.7N – 50° 55.4E

 

31 Jan. – Wed.

 

0000    Continued fresh ENE wind – 18-20.  o/c 270°M with Maui jib only.  S: 5.5-6.  Great downwind sailing!…

0022    SatFix:             13° 28.5N – 49° 49.4E

0200    Wind down to 12-14 ENE…  S: 3.5.

0400    Wind filling in from ENE – 8-10.

0812    SatFix:             13° 28.3N – 49° 06.9E.  Wind up to 18-22.

1800    Jibe.  o/c 255°M – S: 4.5-5.  Wind E @ 16-18.

2000    Continued fresh E winds – 18-22.  Moderate seas.

 

1 Feb. – Thurs.

 

0000    o/c 250-270°M with Maui jib only.  S: 5-5.5.  Wind E to ENE 16-18 kts.

0252    SatFix:             13° 03.6N – 47° 13.9E

0730    Jibe.  o/c 270°M.  Wind 20-25.  Seas 2m.

1200    Wind up to 30 kts.  -  seas well over 2m and breaking all around.  Sure lucky we’re running!  Some wild sleigh rides on some of the bigger monsters…

1858    SatFix:             12° 53.7N – 45° 50.7E

2245    Loom of S. Yemen coastal towns visible on stbd. beam.

2300    Loom of Aden visible on stbd. bow.

 

2 Feb. – Fri.

 

0000    o/c 240°M with Maui jib only.  S: 5-5.5.  Wind E to ENE 18-20.

0320    Jibe – approach Aden entrance.

0500    Enter Aden outer harbor.  Eng. on.

0520    Down jib.  Motor slowly to inner harbor entrance.  Contact with Harbor Control on VHF.

0645    Anchored in 25’ W of Customs wharf.  Awaiting clearance formalities.

0830    Notified by Port Control to go ashore for formalities.

0930    Cleared by Immigration.  Passports exchanged for shore passes.

1030    Ashore to market.

p.m.     Visit with Roland & Brigette aboard “Atlas”.

 

3 Feb. – Sat.

 

a.m.     Ashore to “dollar shop” and misc. shopping and errands.  Order duty-free goods.

 

4 Feb. – Sun.

 

a.m.     Duty-free goods delivered.  Laundry day.  Errands, bank, P.O., etc.

p.m.     Rig dipole antenna.

 

5 Feb. – Mon.

 

a.m.     Errands.

p.m.     Check leak in raw water intake thru-hull.  Possible wear on bronze cone.  Check eng. start battery water.  Clean & check cassette player.

eve.     Visit to U.K. Embassy.

 

6 Feb. – Tues.

 

a.m.     Xfer fuel.  Aft tank to main tank.  Replace (re-reeve) Aries steering lines (chafed).  Appointment for taking on fuel tomorrow @ 0900.

p.m.     Aloft main & mizzen masts to check all fittings, tangs, chafe tape & electrical connections.  All okay.

 

7 Feb. – Wed.

 

a.m.     Prepare to get u/w to fuel pier.

1005    Eng. on.

1010    u/w to fuel pier.

1020    Moored stbd. side to ABC (Aden Bunkering Co.) fuel pier.  Paperwork & running around, then top off aft fuel tank.  43 imperial gallons – 195.5 liters @ $018.8 per liter.  Total:  $37.00US.  All fuel tanks full.

1150    u/w from fuel pier to anchorage.

1200    Anchored in 25’ near Customs wharf.

 

8 Feb. – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Errands.  P.O., bank, etc.

 

9 Feb – Fri.

 

a.m.     Laundry.  Clean & replace outboard spark plug.  Check & clean inlet & thru-hull for head.

 

10 Feb. – Sat.

 

            To Egyptian Embassy to apply for & receive visas.  Cost, each = 6 dinars = US$18.00 for 1-month visas…

 

11 Feb. – Sun.

 

a.m.     Begin antibiotics due to leg & hand infections (staph?).  Dynapen 1-2 caps 4x daily.  Clean port & starboard topsides.  Scrub stbd. waterline.

 

12 Feb. – Mon.

 

a.m.     Shopping, P.O., etc.  Change out LPG bottle.  On hand, 1 m.t., 3 full.

 

late

p.m.     To British Embassy for entertainment night.

 

13 Feb. – Tues.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Trip to “crater” for shopping, photos, etc.

 

14 Feb. - ♥ - Wed.

 

a.m.     Last provisioning – fresh goods.

noon    Laundry; scrub dinghy bottom.

 

15 Feb. – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Down awning.  Prepare to get u/w.

0720    Eng. on.

0740    Anchor up; u/w to Customs wharf.

0750    Moored stbd. side to, alongside work vessels at Customs wharf to take on fresh water.

0930    All tanks and jugs topped off.  150 gals. taken on (US$3.00).

1030    Cleared by Harbormaster and Immigration.  Stow dinghy and tie down for sea.

1120    Eng. on.

1130    u/w from Aden to Port Sudan.

1200    Up Maui jib;  Wind SE @ 10-15.

1205    Eng. secured.

1705    Down jib;  enter Bandar Imran.

1720    Anchored in 10-15’ at Ras Imran in lee of Jabal Aziz Island.

 

16 Feb. – Fri.

 

a.m.     Tighten packing.  Scrub waterline and bottom to 3’ below waterline, prop & rudder.  Clean all thru-hulls and intakes.  Bottom very foul – some hardshell growth with slime & algae…  Big job…  Generally overcast day with little wind.  Several passing boats calling “welcome”.

 

17 Feb. – Sat.

 

0330    Prepare to get u/w.  Light breeze from NE.

0345    Eng. on.

0400    Anchor up; u/w from Ras Imran to Ras Al ‘Ara.

0405    o/c 350°M @ 1500 RPM.

0730    Ras Kaau abeam stbd.  SMG  5.2.  Little to no wind.  Continue motoring @ 1500 RPM.

0935    Light breeze from SE, up Maui jib; motorsail….

1010    Breeze increasing.  Eng. secured.

1025    Up mizzen staysail.  Lovely sailing!

1355    Down mizzen staysail.

1400    Jibe.  o/c to Ras Al ‘Ara.  Wind SE 18-22.

1435    Eng. on.

1440    Down jib.

1450    Anchored in 20-25’ off fishing village of Ras Al ‘Ara.  Wind: 20-24 SE.  Just enough protection for comfort…

 

18 Feb. – Sun.

 

0730    Prepare to get u/w.

0740    Eng. on.

0750    Anchor up; u/w to Straits of Bab-al-Mandab.

0800    Light breeze from ESE; up Maui jib.  o/c 270-275°M

0840    Eng. secured.

1330    Sheikh Malu Is. abeam stbd; transit Straits of Bab-al-Mandeb [sic] (small strait).  Wind SSE 18-24.  Wonderful downwind sailing!  Welcome to the Red Sea!…

1530    Rig Aries – o/c 320-330°M.  S: 4-5.

2006    SatFix:             13° 06.5N – 43° 06.6E

2120    Jibe.  Maui jib blown out!  Down jib.

2200    #2 jib up; o/c 000°M @ 4.5-5 kts.  Wind SSE @ 18-24.

2300    Continued fresh wind from SSE – 25+ kts. with boisterous seas.  Sure glad it’s from astern!…  o/c 000°M with Aries.  Loom of lights visible on both Saudi and Ethiopian coasts (port & stbd.).

 

19 Feb. – Mon.

 

0000    o/c 000°M with #2 jib only.  Wind SSE @ 20-25 with building seas. S: 4.5-5.

0400    Wind down to 6-8 kts.  Seas going down.

0600    Total calm.  Eng. checks.  Down jib.

0630    Eng. on & u/w 270°M toward little Hanish Is.  Some problem with airlock (?) in raw water pump…

0920    Anchored in 45-50’ N end of Little Hanish Is.

1100    Visit by Yemen fishermen – assist re-wiring their outboard start system.  Big fish lunch!

2000    Fishing boat tied astern for the night.

 

20 Feb. – Tues.

 

0245    Wind shift to N.

0315    Fishing boat away (to recover nets(?)).  Line left astern.

0330    Wind N @ 8-10.  Slight seas.  May have to move…

0700    Prepare to get u/w.

0710    Eng. on.

0720    Anchor up; u/w to S side of Zuqar Is.

0800    All stop to make contact on Tony’s (K1ORE) net.

0830    u/w to anchorage – between Near Is. and Zuqar Is.

0950    Anchored in 30’, sand & coral, off N end of Near Is.  close to S tip of Zuqar Is.  Wind NW 10-15.

1000    Clean cockpit and all cushions.  Xfer fuel.  Fold and stow damaged Maui jib.

p.m.     Beachcombing expedition on Zuqar Is.  Lots of bottles, footwear, driftwood, and cuttlefish bones.  Note in bottle found, but undecipherable L…

 

21 Feb. – Wed.

 

a.m.     Very light breeze from NW; near calm.

            Still problems with small infections on right hand and left leg.  Treating daily but little effect.  Begin oral antibiotics – ampicillin…

 

22 Feb. – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Local Yemeni fishing boat alongside with father & 3 sons.  Check & disassemble Honda generator, replace start cord, clean contacts, etc.  Bad part in carburetor.  Big lunch afterwards.

1230    Wind shift to SE with approaching rain.  Eng. on, up anchor; re-anchor in 35’ at N tip of Near Is.  Fishing boat alongside.

1500    Wind shift to NW with more rain.  Eng. on, up anchor.

1530    Re-anchored – same spot – 35’ off Zuqar Is.

 

23 Feb. – Fri.

 

a.m.     Help Keith of “Toucan” with battery select switch.  Visit by Allen, Geeda, & Lassen of “Likee”.

eve.     Fish barbee on the beach with yachties – Rhysling, Toucan, Likee, Thorfin, Jus Lookin II, and Looby Dood.  Fresh NW wind all day.

 

24 Feb. – Sat.

 

a.m.     Charles on “Mountain hike”.

            Fresh NW wind – 18-20 kts.

 

25 Feb – Sun.

 

a.m.     Continued NW wind, 10-15.  Some higher gusts. 

            Charles fishing.

 

26 Feb. – Mon.

 

a.m.     Fresh, gusty NW winds, 20-25 kts with gusts above 30.  Definitely a day to stay put!  Whitecaps & chop in the anchorage.

 

27 Feb. – Tues.

 

a.m.     Wind easing a bit, but still 15-20 out of NW.  Pow-wow with other yachties; most decide to stay a bit longer hoping for a southerly change…  Repair HF radio tuner switch on “Looby Dood”.

 

28 Feb. – Wed.

 

0600    Calm.  Possible change??…

            Prepare to get u/w.  Dinghy stowed, etc.

0655    Eng. checks.

0700    Eng. on.

0705    Under way from Zuqar Is.  Light breeze from NNE….

            Various courses to clear NW point of Zuqar.

0830    Breeze from NNE.  Up #2 jib, full main & mizzen. 

0900    Eng. secured.  o/c 320°M

1100    Wind very light from NNE; down #2 jib, up large jib.

1200    Near calm.   Just ghosting along…

1235    Wind shift to NW and increase to 15 kts.  o/c 270-275°M, 3.5-4 kts.

1400    Wind down slightly – 12-16 kts. NNW.  Short, choppy seas.

1535    Onto port tack.  o/c 030°M, 3.5-4 kts.

1730    Wind freshening & lifting slightly.  NW @ 16-18.  Pretty decent upwind sailing.  “Looby Dood” close abeam stbd.  All well.

2140    SatFix:             14° 29.3N – 42° 33.0E

 

1 March – Thurs.

 

0000    u/w from Zuqar Is.  Tacking NW up Red Sea.  Main, mizzen & large jib.  o/c 020-030°M @ 3.5-4 kts.  Wind NNW 10-14.

0130    Onto stbd. (more favorable) tack.  o/c 310-320°M.  S: 3.5.

0215    Wind dropping to near calm – 2-4 kts.

0300    Calm…

0500    Continued flat calm.  Down jib; eng. on.  u/w o/c 320°M @ 1500 RPM.

0800    Continued calm.

1315    S end Jabel Zubair abeam stbd.  Down mizzen and main.  Approach anchorage between Zubair and Saba Islands.

1400    Anchored in 35’ at SW end of Saba Is.  10 other yachts here already!

1430    Charles off fishing.  General cleanup.  Xfer fuel…  On hand:  Main tank – full, aft tank – 2/3.  Total on hand:  120 gallons.

 

2 March – Fri.

 

a.m.     Continued light NW’terlies.  Prepare to get u/w.

0915    Dinghy aboard.

0930    Eng. on.

0940    Anchor up; u/w from Saba Is.

1000    Breeze from NNW.  Up main, #2 jib, & mizzen.

1015    Eng. secured.  o/c 285°M, S: 4-4.5 kts.  Wind NNW 12-16.  Good upwind sailing conditions.

1100    Wind down to 8-12 kts.  o/c 270-280°M, S: 3.5.

1134    SatFix:             15° 02.9N – 42° 02.9E

1215    Wind increasing 16-18 NW.  Onto port tack.

1415    Wind continuing to increase – 18-22, backing a bit.  o/c 000-010°M, S: 3.5-4.

1515    Quoin Is. abeam stbd. 200 yds.

2326    SatFix:             15° 40.8N – 42° 09.6E

2350    Onto stbd. tack.  o/c 280-290°M.  S: 3-3.5.  Wind & seas down.

 

3 March – Sat.

 

0000    u/w with main, mizzen & #2 jib.  o/c 285°M.  S: 3-3.5.  Wind NNW @ 8-12.

0420    Near calm.  Down jib.  Eng. checks.

0430    Eng. on; u/w @ 1500 RPM o/c 315°M.

0600    Continued near calm.  Slight breeze from NW but not enough to sail.  Swell building from NW so expect wind to increase…  Continue motoring at 1500 RPM.

1344    SatFix:             16° 06.7N – 41° 33.1E

2100    Continued near calm.  Flat seas.  Motoring to make as much NW’ing as possible…

 

4 March – Sun.

 

0000    u/w motoring in flat water with light NW breeze @ 1500 RPM with main & mizzen set.

0646    SatFix:             16° 48.1N – 40° 44.3E

0650    Shut down engine to make checks.  Add 2/3 qt. to eng. and 1/3 qt. to xmission.  All else okay (slight oil leak at filter).  Xfer fuel.  Total on hand:  Approx 105 gallons.

0710    Eng. on.  u/w o/c 300-310°M @ 1500 RPM.  Continued near calm with flat seas, so motoring to get us to Sudan coast before stronger headwinds can set in.

1640    SatFix:             17° 07.6N – 40° 12.0E.  SMG = 4.1.

1700    Continued motoring with glassy calm all day…  Very sunny and hot;  true mideast conditions!

2055    Eng. secured for checks & radio comms.

2200    No luck contacting Steve.

2230    Eng. checks – all okay.  Eng. on; u/w o/c 310°M @ 1500 RPM.  Continued calm.

2258    SatFix:             17° 21.4N – 39° 56.6E

 

5 March – Mon.

 

0000    Continued flat, glassy calm.  Motoring at 1500 RPM with main & mizzen up.  o/c 310°M.

0800    Eng. secured for checks & radio comms.

0830    All okay, eng. on; u/w @ 1500 RPMs o/c 310°M.

1402    SatFix:             18° 0.0N – 39° 09.2E

1700    Light breeze from E.  Down mizzen & main.  Continue motoring.

1730    o/c 295°M.

 

6 March – Tues.

 

0000    Motoring in calm @ 1500 RPM’s.  o/c 295°M

0126    SatFix:             18° 24.3N – 38° 17.7E.

0200    o/c 310°M.

0726    SatFix:             18° 40.1N – 37° 55.3E

0935    Marsa Maqdam Reef beacon abeam stbd.  Enter Shab ul Shubuk reef channel.  “Lykke” motorsailing alongside…

1115    Anchored in 50’ sand at S end of Long Island, Sudan coast.  Eng. secured.  Welcome to Africa!

 

7 March – Wed.

 

0845    Prepare to get u/w.

0925    Eng. on.

0945    u/w from Long. Is.

0955    Up #2 jib.

1000    Eng. secured.

1015    Eng. on to maneuver abound coral heads.  Down jib.

1045    Up mizzen; motorsail.  Wind:  WNW 18-25.

1100    Up #2 jib.

1105    Eng. secured.  o/c 268°M

1200    Enter channel, eng. on.  Begin transit of Shab ul Shubuk channel.

1205    Down jib; various courses @ 1500 RPM thru channel.

1505    Anchored in 10’ at Marsa Sheikh Ibrahim.

 

8 March – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Xfer fuel – on hand:  Main tank – full, aft – empty.

            Check start battery cells – all okay.  Tighten packing ¼ turn.  Remove raw water pump & check impeller and any obstructions – all okay.  Replace & test.  Drain and change engine oil.  Replace oil filter.  Clean eng. drip pan.  All okay after eng. test.  Ashore to bury rubbish & waste oil.  Replace nav. station light.  Lubricate steering.  Lube and check anchor windlass.

 

9 March – Fri.

 

0700    Prepare to get u/w.

0730    Eng. on.

0735    Anchor up; u/w from Marsa Ibrahim to Suakin.

0815    Wind NNW @ 15-20; up mizzen.  Motorsail o/c 350°M.

0845    Up #2 jib.  Tack & motorsail to make good course.

1220    Near Suakin entrance.  Down jib.

1245    Down mizzen; enter Suakin Channel

1320    Called to wharf by police.

1325    2 Sudan police officers aboard for ride to Mosque.

1335    Anchored in 10’, Suakin harbor.  Policemen ashore with John of “Looby Dood”

1400    Policemen, El Jalei and Addm. back aboard for coffee & visit.  All well.

1500    Police friends ashore.

 

10 March – Sat.

 

0900    Security shoreside.  Show passports & port clearance:  Possible to stay a day or two…

a.m.     Ashore to change money & market.

1300    Police security man – Hessein – aboard for visit and checks on arriving yachts… all okay.

 

1300-

1200    Retard clocks to conform with Sudan time zone –2.

1500    Hessein ashore.

 

11 March – Sun.

 

a.m.     To market for fresh vegs & bread – no bread.  Bake bread.

p.m.     Fasten dinghy fender with tie wraps.  All secure.  Wind – fresh from NW @ 20-25 kts.  Awaiting calm.

 

12 March – Mon.

 

a.m.     Cleanup.  Wind WNW to NW; easing a bit.  Will probably depart tomorrow…

p.m.     Fresh NW wind – 20 kts.  Easing late afternoon.  Visit with Scott & Kitty of “Tamure”.  Given much useful schoolwork for Charles!  Also visit with Cindy & Mike on “Clove of Seasons”. 

late

p.m.     Last trip to market; dinghy aboard…

 

13 March – Tues.

 

0530    Prepare to get u/w.

0600    Eng. on.

0605    Anchor up; u/w to Port Sudan.

0640    Channel entrance beacons abeam portside;  o/c 347°M @ 1500 RPMs.  Wind WNW @ 10, seas slight.

0920    Anchored in 45’ @ Marsa Ata.  Wind increasing to 15-20 kts NW.  Await calmer wx for last leg to Sudan…  Average SMG = 3.6.

1200    Wind increasing to 25+ kts.

            Remove & stow Aries.  Disassemble & lube wheel drum.

late

p.m.     Visit with Mike & Cindy aboard “Clove of Seasons” with Scott & Kitty of “Tamure”.  Charles with Alex, Spencer, and Zack on “Tamure”.

2000    Winds to 30 kts.

 

14 March – Wed.

 

0530    Windy all night.  Winds now 15-20.  Will stay put ‘til it shows signs of easing.

0800    Winds 25+ from NNW.

1700    Winds 25+ all day, but easing a bit now.

1800    Dinghy aboard for possible early a.m. departure.

 

15 March – Thurs.

 

0230    Wind down to 5-8 kts., WNW;  prepare to get u/w.

0250    Eng. on.  S/B[15] for “Tamure”.

0315    u/w to pass.

0325    Transit Marsa Ata Pass (good moonlight!).  o/c 020°M.

0340    o/c 350°M.  Wind WNW @ 10 kts.  Motoring at 1500 RPM.  Seas slight.

0700    Approaching Towartit Elbow.  Winds increasing to 20+ and swell building from NNW…

0915    Entrance light abeam portside; approach Port Sudan Harbor.

0950    Anchored in 25’, Port Sudan.  Awaiting clearance formalities.

1000    Cleared by Port Health officer

1045    Ashore to Harbormaster (surrender ship’s papers).  Immigration (surrender passports for shore passes), and Customs (for money declaration).

1500    Visit by security – aboard to collect crew list.  All cleared.

p.m.     Tighten packing ¼ turn.

 

16 March – Fri.

 

0800    Eng. on; up anchor.  Shift to new spot in anchorage with more swinging room.

0815    Eng. secured.  Anchored in 25-30’.

a.m.     Visit by John of “Looby Dood” & Bob of “Rovanna” (Rodora?).  Also Jacque & Nocole of “Tuyaka”.  Dismasted by Soviet freighter en route to Red Sea…

            Formulate letters for Sudanese cruising permit and permission to purchase diesel, petrol, & flour.

p.m.     Clean cockpit, put up awning, etc.  Pressure down, wind light from N.  Fine day.

 

17 March – Sat.

 

0700    Ashore for permits for diesel, petrol, & flour.  Offices “partly closed” due to President’s visit.  Cruising permit granted.

1130    Diesel & petrol permits granted.  Borrow 10 20-liter containers from “Looby Dood” and top off tanks – 2 taxi trips to service station.  Price 4.50# per imperial gallon.  70.4 gallons (320 liters) taken aboard for 325.00# @ 12.2 #/1 US$.

            Price:  4.60# per gallon = US$ .38 per gallon

            Total cost:       70.4 gallons diesel:  US$26.63 + 5.73 (taxi) = US$32.36.

           

            Lots of mess & hassles.  Would not fill petrol jug because plastic.  Will try tomorrow.

1830    2 tins of flour from Beth & Bob of “Rhodora”.

 

18 March – Sun.

 

a.m.     Top off fresh water tanks (3 trips with all jugs).

            Procure petrol (more hassles & running around).  Bank & photography permit from tourist office.

p.m.     Laundry,  cleanup, correspondence.

 

19 March – Mon.

 

a.m.     Bank, P.O., errands.  Photos at market.

p.m.     Visit with Navy friends – Salman, Safrino & James at their home in “Area 2”.

 

20 March – Tues.

 

a.m.     Fresh goods shopping.

p.m.     Visit by Safrino.

 

21 March – Wed.  * Vernal Equinox*

 

a.m.     P.O. & last fresh vegs shopping.  Visit by Francis – local school teacher from “Area 2”.

1100-

1400    Clear out with Port authorities, Customs, Harbormaster.  Passports & ship’s papers returned.  Port clearance issued.  Planned departure for early a.m. tomorrow.

 

22 March – Thurs.

 

0345    Prepare to get u/w.

0400    Eng. on.

0415    Anchor up; u/w from Port Sudan.

0430    Damma Damma Lt. abeam stbd.  o/c 090°M.

0440    o/c 015°M.  Calm.  Motoring @ 1500 RPM.

0610    Light breeze from NW; up main – motorsail.

0640    Le Mercier Shoals beacon abeam stbd.  o/c 000°M.

0815    Headwind;  down main, continue motoring.

1110    Anchored in 15’,  Marsa ‘Arūs.  Eng. secured.

 

23 March – Fri.

 

0445    Prepare to get u/w.

0530    Eng. on.

0540    Transit pass – minimal light but reef visible on portside.

0745    Wind building from N – 15-20 kts.

0925    Anchored in 45’ sand & coral, Marsa Arakiyai, near “Pieces of Dreams”, John & Joan.

0930    Eng. secured.

1200    Wind – NNE @ 25+ kts…  “Glad we’re not out there!”.

1700    Wind continuing 25+ kts…  NNE.

1730    LPG bottle m.t., change out.  2 m.t.’s in forward stowage, 2 full bottles in deck locker.

1800    Continued strong winds from NNE – 25-30 kts.

 

24 March – Sat.

 

0630    Wind already up to 20 kts.  Pressure high.

            Trace & re-run forepeak speaker wire to stereo.

1200    Wind 25+ all morning – gusts above 30 at times.

1230    Rig windsurfer.

1330    Wind above 30 kts. with higher gusts.

1700    Continued 30 kt. winds – NNE.

 

25 March – Sun.

 

0530    Wind 20+ all night.

0900    Continued 25+ kt. N wind, gusts to 30.

p.m.     Fashion new outboard motor safety lanyard.  Repair SW[16] radio antenna.

1700    Wind steady at 20-25 kts.  Pressure steady…

 

26 March – Mon.

 

0600    Wind down to 15-20 kts., pressure steady @ 30”.

1130    Charles ashore with clearance papers & passports to show army officials.  No problem staying here as long as we wish until conditions improve.

 

27 March – Tues.

 

0400    Wind down to 2-4 kts. NNW.  Preparations for getting u/w…  Eng. checks.

0500    Eng. on.

0515    u/w from Marsa Arakiyai in company with “Tamure”, “Pieces of Dreams”, & “Sparkling Spirit”.

0535    Outer reef beacon abeam stbd.

0600    Up #2 jib, motorsailing o/c 020-030°M.  Up mizzen.

0620    Single reef in main, wind to 25 kts.

0640    Eng. secured.  o/c 290-300°M (all others turned back due to increased winds).

0715    Onto port tack – o/c 030°M.

0845    Onto stbd. tack – o/c 310-320°M.

1040    Approach Marsa Salak; down main & jib.

1045    Eng. on.

1100    Anchored in 25’ (with drop-off to 45’) in lee of point E of Marsa Salak. (“Time” & “Berna Marie” here already).  (Course between coral heads – 030-040°M.

            Eng. secured, down mizzen.

 

28 March – Wed.

 

0520    Prepare to get u/w – near calm, pressure down.

0525    Eng. on.

0535    Anchor up, u/w.

0540    “Scrape” thru reefs and into main channel.

0555    Up single reefed main, #2 jib & mizzen.

0600    Tank wreckage on reef abeam stbd.  o/c 030°M.

0615    Wind filling in NNW 15-18 kts.

0620    Eng. secured.

0932    SatFix:             20° 37.3N – 37° 25.1E

1000    S end of Mukawwar Is. abeam port.  Wind & seas easing a bit.  19-20 kts. NNW.  Continued sets of stalling chop (“brick walls”).

1235    Onto stbd. tack.  o/c 300°M.

 

1500-

1530    Engine problem – raw water pump down.

1545    Various tack & course to approach reef anchorage…

1630    Enter reefs N of Jazirat Bayer.  Ease sheets.

1650    Anchored in 35’ between reefs.  All sails down.

 

29 March – Thurs.

 

0630    Remove old raw water pump, re-plumb & install rebuilt spare.

0900    Spare leaking badly!  Seal.  Remove, “un-plumb”.  Replace gasket (thinner one) and flatten wear plate on old pump.  Re-install and test.  All okay.  Clean bilge of oil & seawater.  Tighten packing ¼ turn.  Fasten bottom end of salon table post to table.  Enlarge table leaf latch hole.

 

30 March – Fri.

 

0530    Prepare to get u/w.

0635    Eng. on.

0700    Anchor up; u/w.

0715    Reef entrance beacons abeam port & stbd.

0730    Up main (single reefed) and #2 jib.  o/c 020°M, motorsailing @ 1500 RPM’s.  Wind NNW @ 10-12 kts.

0750    Up mizzen.

1200    Onto stbd. tack – o/c 300°M.  Wind up to 18-20.  Still motorsailing to power thru chop…

1300    Engine secured.  Win N to NNE @ 16-18.  Seas up.

1500    Wind easing to 14-16 kts. – veering NNE o/c 320°M.

1530    Eng. on, motorsail.

1820    SatFix:             21° 23.8N – 37° 17.3E

2000    Wind to 18-20 kts., eng. secured.  o/c 320°M.

2035    Onto port tack – o/c 035°M.  S: 3.5(?)

 

31 March – Sat.

 

0000    u/w with single reefed main, #2 jib, & mizzen.  o/c 000-010°M @ 3.5 kts.  Wind NW 18-20.

0340    Onto Stbd. tack.  o/c 270°M – wind NW @ 20-25.

0430    Wind & seas increasing.

0445    Down main.

0808    SatFix:             21° 42.8N – 37° 01.1E

0910    Eng. on.  Motorsail to clear offshore reefs.

1000    Approach Sudan coast.  Wind increasing to near gale force.  Dust storm obscuring visibility and very irritating.

1030    Down jib & mizzen.  Motor along reef looking for refuge.  Enter Marsa (?) with boat seen anchored there (“Sparkling Spirit”).  Capt. James out in dinghy to assist.  Winds up to 45+ kts.  Forecast to possible hurricane strength tonight.  Set bower anchor in shallow sand spit after 3 attempts.  Finally possible by grounding bow in sand and hand setting in 4’.  Boat blown off and 250’ scope paid out.  Danforth and 45# CQR set & holding in winds up to 50 kts. gusts.  Reef on lee shore 100m astern.  Boat in 50-55’.

1400    “Sparkling Spirit” also on 3 anchors…  sandstorm abating a bit, but wind still 40-45+.

 

1 April – Sun.

 

0600    Prepare to get u/w, two anchors up.

0740    Set stern anchor.

0750    Eng. on.

0810    Bow & stern anchors up, u/w from Marsa Hamsiat.  Near calm.  Puffs from SSE but gradually backing…

0830    General washdown & cleanup on deck.  Lots of brown dust!

1000    Wind filling in from SW.  Dinghy on deck and stowed.

1030    Up large jib, motorsailing o/c 355°M in company with “Sparkling Spirit”.

1550    Jib down.

1555    Enter channel at Marsa Halaib.

1615    Anchored in 25’ sand & coral.

2200    Wind shift to NNW…

 

2 April – Mon.

 

0500    Wind continuing WNW and building, 18-20 kts.

a.m.     Lubricate jib hanks on working jib, #2 jib, & large jib.  Re-install main electric switch in eng. compartment.  Rig and mark new stern anchor rode.  Organize lazarette.

1800    Near calm; breeze from ESE.

 

3 April – Tues.

 

0430    Prepare to get u/w.  Light breeze from W…  Eng. checks, stow dinghy, etc.

0515    Anchor up; eng. on, u/w to pass.

0550    Out of pass, o/c 000°M.  Sandy Is. abeam port.  “Pieces of Dreams” following.

0615    Breeze from NW; up single reefed main, motorsail.

0645    Up #2 jib.

1045    Wind NNW @ 12-16, shake out reef in main.

1125    Eng. secured.

1330    Onto stbd. tack; o/c 300-310°M.

1705    Wind dropping; eng. on, motorsail o/c 320°M @ 1500 RPM.

2100    Wind backing slightly to N, down jib.  Continue motorsailing.

2232    SatFix:             23° 12.6N – 36° 26.1E

 

4 April – Wed.

 

0000    u/w motorsailing @ 1500 RPM’s with main up.  o/c 320°M.  Crossing “Foul Bay”.

0430    Wind filling in from NW; up #2 jib; o/c 000-010°M.

0445    Eng. secured.  o/c 010-020°M.

0515    Onto stbd. tack; o/c 300-310°M.

0700    Seas building with N wind 15-18 kts.  Pressure up…

0900    Motorsail; jib down.  o/c 310-315°M.

1000    Single reef in main.  Up #2 jib; motorsail o/c 300°M.  S: 4.5-5.

1215    Onto port tack; o/c 060°M.

1305    Onto stbd. tack; o/c 320°M.

1315    Take one turn each on port & stbd. mizzen intermediate turnbuckles due to pumping at triatic[17].

1500    Various tacks & courses to approach Ras Banâs anchorage.

1615    Jib down.

1630    Anchored in 30’ coral & sand.  Main down, eng. secured.

 

5 April – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Wind 15-20 all morning.  Pressure up.

            Change primary fuel filter.  clean air filter.  Clean bilge oil pan.  Fashion drip pan under xmission.  Add ½ qt. oil to xmission.  Slight leak – possible seal.

            Lubricate steering.

late

p.m.     Wind near calm.  Pressure down & steady.

 

6 April – Fri.

 

0645    Wind light to calm.  Pressure down & steady; preps for getting u/w.

0730    Eng. on.

0740    Anchor up; u/w from Ras Banâs.

0810    o/c 330°M.  Motoring @ 1500 RPM’s.

1015    Up single reefed main and #2 jib.  Wind NNW@ 15.  o/c 010°M, S: 3-3.5.

1140    Up mizzen.

1232    SatFix:             24° 04.9N – 35° 50.8E

1430    Starb tack o/c 295[18]

1730    Wind easing…

1825    Eng. on; down jib.  Motorsail @ 1500 RPM’s, o/c 000°M @ 4(?) kts…

 

7 April – Sat.

 

0000    Motorsailing @ 1500 RPM’s with single reefed main & mizzen.  o/c 330°M.  Near calm.

0458    SatFix:             24° 46.8N – 35° 19.3E

0515    Eng. secured for checks & xfer fuel.

0525    Eng. on; u/w o/c 330°M @ 1500 RPM’s.  Glass calm.  Hope it lasts a while!

0845    Breeze from WNW; o/c 350°M – motorsailing until chop builds…

1010    Wind to 15 kts. WSW.  Eng. secured, up #2 jib.  o/c 020°M, S: 3.

1130    Wind easing.  Shake out reef in main.

1200    Engine on.  Motorsail @ 1500 RPM’s.

1240    Starb tack o/c 290

1300    o/c 305-310°M

1430    Wind veering to NNE; o/c 320-330°M

1438    SatFix:             25° 17.5N – 35° 04.4E

1745    Down jib.  Total calm.  Motoring…

2302    SatFix:             25° 41.9N – 34° 41.5E

 

8 April – Sun.

 

0000    Continued glassy calm.  u/w motoring at 1500 RPM’s with main & mizzen up.  o/c 330°M.

0630    Wind increasing NNW @ 15-18 kts.

0645    Eng. secured.  Up #2 jib.  o/c 025-030°M, S: 3.

0800    Wind increasing.  Single reef in main.  Some problem with electric bilge pump back siphoning.  Rig manual pump…

1030    Remove old one-way valve from electric binge pump discharge line.  Re-plumb replacement.  All okay. 

1100    SatFix:             26° 20.1N – 34° 33.2E

1215    Wind easing; shake out ref in main.

1300    Eng. checks.  Xfer fuel.  On hand:  Main tank – full; aft tank 1/8 (total approx. 90 gals.).

1330    Eng. on.  u/w motorsailing o/c 300°M.

1630    Near calm; down jib.  Continue motoring with main & mizzen up.  o/c 320°M.

2124    SatFix:             26° 47.4N – 34° 12.1E

 

9 April – Mon.

 

0000    Motorsailing (?) in calm with main & mizzen up.  1500 RPM’s, o/c 350°M.

0615    Shaker Is. light abeam stbd; enter S area of Gubal straight [sic].  Various courses motorsailing between reefs & islets to enter strait and Gulf of Suez.  Very light WNW breeze.  Seas flat.

0910    Eng. secured for checks.  All ok.  Xfer fuel.  On hand:  Main tank: ¾; aft: m.t.

0935    Eng. on; u/w motorsailing @ 1500 RPM’s.

1105    Bluff Point, Gabul Is. light abeam port.  o/c 320°M.

            Various courses to remain on SW side of traffic separation zone.  Welcome to the Gulf of Suez!  Lots of ships to stbd…

1500    o/c 025°M to cross traffic separation zone.

1645    o/c 335°M.

2058    SatFix:             28° 12.8N – 33° 29.6E.  Light breeze from SE!  Passing thru NE edge of Morgan oil field.

2200    Down mizzen & main.  Up #2 jib.  Very light SE breeze barely filling sail.  Continue motorsailing o/c 315°M @ 1500 RPM’s.

 

10 April – Tues.

 

0000    Motorsailing with #2 jib up.  o/c 315°M.

0005    Glassy calm.  Down jib.  o/c 325°M.

0200    o/c 320°M

0620    Eng. secured for checks.  All okay.

0640    Eng. on; u/w o/c 340°M @ 1500 RPM’s.  Glassy calm…

1445    Anchored in 25’ sand & coral in lee of reef SE of Râs Matarma, Sinai Peninsula.  Awaiting departure time to arrive Suez first light tomorrow a.m.

 

11 April – Wed.

 

0000    Prepare to get u/w.

0020    Eng. on.

0030    Anchor up; u/w to Port Suez.  o/c 270°M.  Breeze from SW.

0045    o/c 300°M.

0110    Up #2 jib; motorsail…

0200    Wind increasing – 15-18 kts. SSW!  Eng. secured.  o/c 340°M.

0230    Wind increasing 20+ and backing to SSE.  Jibe.

0352    SatFix:             29° 38.7N – 32° 35.5E.  SMG = 6.1

0420    o/c 350°M

0600    Wind increasing; enter beaconed channel of Suez Canal approach.

0610    Eng. on; down jib.  Sheet caught in prop.

0620    Line cleared; u/w toward harbor.

0730    Anchored in 25’, Port Ibrahim, Suez Bay.

0830    Engaged services of agent & chandler “Abou Shadi Agencies”, agent Kamal.  Quoted rate of US$90.00 for all services;  E10.00/day mooring fees.

0840    Agent ashore with passports & ship’s papers for immigration and Customs clearance.

0900    Wind up to 35+ kts. southerly.

1200    Wind dropping to 15-18 kts.

1225    Eng. on.  Prepare to shift to Y.C. mooring.

1230    u/w to Y.C. area.

1300    Moored Suez Yacht Club.  Re-negotiate prices with agent…

 

12 April – Thurs.

 

0630    Eng. on.  End-for-end boat between fore & aft mooring buoys.

0640    Eng. secured.

a.m.     Ashore – errands & arrange for fuel.

p.m.     Top off fuel tanks.  415 liters @ E .07 / ltr.  Or – US$ .03/ltr.  Total cost: (US$10.96) E 29.05.  Truck hire:  E 30.00,  baksheesh E 8.00, tip: E 31.00.

            Total:  E98.05/US$37.00.

 

13 April – Fri.

 

            Change m/e oil.  Tighten packing.  Check start battery cells.  Clean bilge drip pan.  Repair 12V light.  Wind NNW to N all day – 18-20 kts.

 

14 April – Sat.

 

a.m.     Laundry day.  Shopping, P.O.

 

15 April – Sun.

 

a.m.     Register passports & visas with Suez police as required (within 7 days of arrival).  Repair loose fender on dinghy.  Replace chafed jib sheet.  Begin work on radio/elec. plug.

 

16 April – Mon.

 

a.m.     Complete cassette player elec. modification.  Check & lubricate anchor windlass.

 

17 April – Tues.

 

a.m.     To Cairo for banking.

 

18 April – Wed.

 

            Return from Cairo.

 

19 April – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Correspondence, shopping.

 

20 April – Fri.

 

a.m.     Re-wire & check engine/bilge alarm system.  Short in oil pressure alarm.  Switch contacts low in continuity – only allowing 6V through.  Disconnect oil pressure alarm.  Install extra (green) panel light for night motoring.  Replace alt/ff panel light (red).

 

21 April – 25 April

 

            To Cairo sightseeing, shopping, & bank business.

 

26 April – Thurs.

 

            Flush stbd. fresh water tank and top off.  Begin topping off port tank.  Wash down house & cockpit with fresh water.  Laundry day.  Lube jib sheet winches. 

p.m.     Port & stbd. fresh water tanks topped off.

 

27 April – Fri.

 

            Replace exiting resistor in engine charging circuit.  Test.  Re-wire fire fighting (halon) system “ready” light.  Check VHF for possible remote speaker.  Not feasible.  Organize stowage area beneath nav. station.

 

28 April – Sat.

 

a.m.     To Suez for minor provisioning.  Stow goods.  Arrange for filling LPG tanks tomorrow.

 

29 April – Sun.

 

a.m.     To Suez to fill LPG tanks & petrol – E$4.00 per tank (US$1.51) LPG.  Petrol E$3.00/7 liters – E$2.33 / liter or US$0.85 / liter.

            Arrange with agent for canal transit – Tues. 1 May.

p.m.     Canal Authority engineer aboard for engine test & inspection.  All okay.

            Scrub around waterline, rudder, prop, and all thru-hulls.  Bottom very foul.

 

30 April – Mon.

 

a.m.     Final arrangements with agent for canal transit.  Shopping in Suez for fresh provisions.

p.m.     All clear for transit.

            General preps. for getting u/w.  Exercise engine.

 

1 May – Tues.

 

0230    Suez Canal pilot – Mr. “Radar” (Mr. Reda) – aboard.  Stow dinghy.

0305    u/w from Y.C. moorings.

0315    Enter S end of Suez Canal – pilot steering various courses @ 1600 RPM’s.  Five yachts in company.

0520    Genife Signal Station abeam port – enter Little Bitter Lake.  Wind 4-5 kts., tide flooding.  Good speed.  SMG = 6.5!

0930    Exit N end of Great Bitter Lake.

0935    Touch & go at Signal Station to give baksheesh (cigs.) (Deversoir Station).

0940    u/w up canal toward Lake Timsah.

1100    Tousoum Signal Station abeam port; last turn toward Lake Timsah.

1145    Enter Lake Timsah.

1220    Anchored in 20’ mud in front of Is. Malia Pilot Station.  Eng. secured.  SMG on transit:  5.5.

1225    Pilot boat alongside – damage to stern anchor bracket & stanchion – stbd. qtr.

1230    Pilot ashore.  Baksheesh (!) to pilot (cigs.).

1330    Security/police boat alongside to check passports & crew list.  More baksheesh… (cigs.).

1345    Xfer fuel – aft to main.  Eng. checks.  Repair damaged anchor holder & stanchion.

 

2 May – Wed.

 

0000-

0100    Advance ship’s clocks to conform with –3 time zone (Egypt Summer Time).

 

0330    Prepare to get u/w.  Awaiting pilot.

0630    No sign of pilot…

0700    Pilot aboard.  Eng. on.

0715    Anchor up; u/w from Ismalia to continue transit of Suez Canal.  Pilot – Mr. Sabar.  1600 RPM’s.

0750    Southbound convoy passing – led by 153,000-ton tanker…

0900    Firdan Signal Station abeam port.

1010    El Ballah Signal Station abeam port.  SMG = 4.5.

1115    El-Kantra (El-Qantara) Signal Station abeam port.  SMG = 4.7.

1445    Rasal-ish abeam port.

1555    Pilot ashore via boat – 3rd pilot aboard!  Wants bakseesh!  None left!

1640    Pilot ashore.  Mr. Hassan.

1700    Last channel from Port Said – exit at last!

1715    Up #2 jib; up main.

1730    Eng. secured.  o/c 025°M @ 4 kts.  Wind NNW @ 8-12.

2340    Calm; eng. checks.  Down jib.

2345    Eng. on.  Motor @ 1500 RPM o/c 350°M.

 

 

3 May – Thurs.

 

0000    Motoring in near calm at 1500 RPM’s o/c 340-350°M.

0832    SatFix:             31° 56.6N – 32° 31.2E

1324    SatFix:             32° 16.7N – 32° 23.7E

1600    Wind from NW @ 10-14.  Up large jib.

1605    Eng. secured.  o/c 030°M @ 4.0 kts.

2258    SatFix:             32° 46.9N – 32° 37.1E

 

4 May – Fri.

 

0000    o/c 345°M @ 4 kts.  Main & large jib.  Wind NW @ 8-12.  Very pleasant sailing.

0634    SatFix:             33° 15.6N – 32° 33.6E

0700    Rig Aries.

1445    Wind to 20+ kts.  Down large jib; up #2 jib.  Single reef in main.

1515    Continue o/c 340°M; S: 4.0.

1530    Wind & seas continuing to build…

2144    SatFix:             34° 16.1N – 32° 21.9E

2330    Cyprus in sight ahead.

 

5 May – Sat.

 

0000    o/c 340°M @ 4 kts. with #2 jib & single-reefed main.  Wind WNW @ 18-22 kts.  Seas moderate to rough.

0030    Down main.  o/c 000°M.

0330    Up mizzen to point higher;  o/c 000°M (wind shifting to NW).

0430    Onto stbd. tack; various tack to approach Paphos Hbr.

0530    Wind easing to 18-20.  Up single reefed main.

0720    Wind down to 8-12.  Up full main.

0800    Wind increase to 18-20 – continue…

1000    Eng. on.  Down all sails;  approach Paphos anchorage.

1045    Anchored in 10’, Paphos harbor, Cyprus.  Very small area & crowded.

1110    Contact with Harbor Police about clearing in.  Ch. 16.

1140    Ashore for formalities.

1245    All cleared by Port Police, Health, Immigration, Ports Authority (Harbormaster), and Customs.  Passports exchanged for “Landing permits”.

 

6 May – Sun.

 

a.m.     Lube mainsheet winch.  Check electric bilge pump, clean sump & eng. drip pan.  Eng. checks.  Trip planning for Mediterranean.

1300    Shift to stern-to berth at old pier – alongside “Eureka” (Capt. Mike) from Sydney.

            Dismantle Aries.  Rig mount hooks for cockpit radio.

 

7 May – Mon.

 

a.m.     To Larnaca for mail.

            Charles moves boat to anchor.

 

8 May – Tues.

 

            Errands, P.O., sightseeing.

p.m.     Replace washers @ diesel return line on secondary fuel filter.  Run engine for test.

late      Capt. to be with 100.6° temp. – possible flu bug.

 

9 May – Wed.

 

a.m.     Feeling much better.  Temp. normal.  Last shopping for fresh goods.

0915    All cleared by Police, Customs, harbormaster, etc. 

1005    Eng. on.

1010    u/w from Paphos harbor.  Various courses to reach Cape Arnauti.  Near calm; motoring @ 1600 RPMs.

1650    Anchored in 25’ E side of Cape Arnauti for engine repairs.

 

late

p.m.     Continued chills, sweats & sore throat (very bad).  Suspect a malaria relapse…

 

10 May – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Feeling better but throat still sore.

            Pressure down – rain & thunder showers to ENE.  Wind W to SW 12-16 with gusts to 18.

            Rig fisherman anchor and make buoy/tripline for same.

            Check all diesel lines for possible leaks (still late starting).

1335    Run engine for test.  Better start.

 

11 May – Fri.

 

a.m.     Change out LPG bottle in deck locker.  On hand:  2 full in bow stowage; 1 full/1 m.t. in deck locker.

            Re-wire and mount ext. power plug in portable radio/cassette.  Prepare to get u/w.

0845    Begin taking up anchor.

0855    Eng. on.

0905    Anchor up; u/w from anchorage to Alanya, Turkey.  o/c 350°M @ 1500 RPM.  Very light WSW breeze but some swell; may increase later.  Motor a while to see how it steadies out away from land influence.

1110    Up main to ease rolling a bit.  Still not enough breeze to sail, but swell on port beam.

1340    Wind 8-10 kts. from W.  Up large jib.  Eng. secured.  o/c 350°M @ 3-3.5 kts.

1700    Wind increasing – 16-18.  Single reef in main to ease wx helm.  Fine sailing!

1900    Wind dropping; shake out reef in main, up full main.

1910    Near calm.  Eng. checks…

1915    Down large jib, eng. on.  Motoring @ 1500 RPM’s o/c 345°M.

2215    Wind up from WNW.  Up large jib.

2230    Eng. secured.  o/c 245°M.  S: 3.5-4.

2240    Fooled again!  Wind shifting N & dropping.

2245    Calm.  Down jib.  Eng. on.  Continue motoring.

2248    SatFix:             36° 00.1N – 32° 01.1E

 

12 May – Sat.

 

0000    Flat calm.  Motoring @ 1500 RPM’s o/c 350°M.  Main up to ease rolling.

0130    Alanya light visible due north.

0600    Alanya Pt. abeam port; down main; ready anchor.

0630    Anchored in 15’, Alanya, Turkey.  Call Port Control on VHF 16.  No response.

0800    Ashore to police to find about clearance formalities.  Told to return Monday (after the weekend).  Permission to go ashore until then.

            Visit with “Gehrhart” (Chaos) of German charter boat re-clearing in.  All filled in.  Help Chaos pull engine & take ashore.  Also with friends trailer boat.

p.m.     Meet Dinch & Serpil & family (from Australia).  Lovely visit at their home.  Our first Turkish friends.

 

 

13 May – Sun.

 

1215    Our friends, the Akal family, aboard for visit.

1240    Prepare to get u/w.

1250    u/w for daysail.

1300    Up main & large jig; eng. secured.

1430    Eng. on; down sails.

1445    Anchored in 15’, Alanya.  Eng. secured.

p.m.     Dinner with Akal family.

 

14 May – Mon.

 

0845    Ashore to clear formalities.

0915    Unable to proceed with clearance due to no visa in Charles’ passport.  Instructed to go to Antalya for visa.

later..   Dinch with me to interpret but no luck.  Must take boat to Antalya.

1250    Eng. on.

1300    Anchor up; u/w to Antalya.

1315    Alanya Point abeam stbd.  o/c 285°M.  Motoring @ 1500 RPM.  Flat calm.

1700    Continued motoring @ 1500 RPM to reach Antalya.

1934    SatFix:             36° 38.9N – 31° 23.2E.  Continued calm.

 

15 May – Tues.

 

0000    u/w o/c 285°M, motoring @ 1500 RPM (calm).

0400    Eng. secured off Antalya Marina; awaiting daylight to enter.

0555    Eng. on.  Approach & enter Antalya Marina.

0650    Moored stbd. side to Antalya Marina fuel dock.

0715    Shift boat to temporary berth, portside-to, with help of  Mr. Erdal of Antalya Marina.

0800    Ashore to clear formalities – ‘Q’ flag up.

0830    Cleared by health.

1100    Shift to stern-to berth with help of marina personnel.

1600    Cleared by customs & passport police.  Charles must exchange passport for shore pass due to no visas for PNG.  He is first person from PNG to visit Turkey.

 

16 May – Wed.

 

0630    Commence dismantling steering for machine work.  Take center turning piece & top arm to agent to arrange for new bushing to eliminate ‘play’.

            Tighten all mountings for steering gear (some loose). 

            Fresh water washdown & top off tanks & jugs.

1630    Re-install steering gear.

p.m.     Dinner (birthday) with Norbert of “Timschal”.

 

17 May – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Visit Thermessis ruins.

 

18 May – Fri.

 

a.m.     To Antalya for mail.

            (Overnight at Akal’s)

 

19 May – Sat.

 

            Shopping;  Prepare to clear out & depart tomorrow.

 

20 May – Sun.

 

0930    Cleared by police, Customs, etc.  Passports returned with transit log.

1035    Eng. on.

1040    u/w from marina berth.

1045    Clear of harbor entrance; o/c 192°M.  Slight breeze from SSW.  Motoring @ 1500 RPM’s.

1145    Wind increasing – 12-16 SSW.  Up main & large jib.

1200    Eng. secured.

1245    Onto port tack.  Various tacks toward Tekirova hbr.

1650    Down jib; eng. on; down main.

1710    Anchored in 30-35’ SE of Kemer headland, and W of Av Burnu.

1715    Eng. secured.

 

21 May – Mon.

 

a.m.     Laundry.  Check on non-return valve in fuel line (some dirt).

1915    Eng. on.

0925    Anchor up; u/w to Cineviz Lim.

0940    Av. Burnu abeam stbd.  o/c 197°M.

1135    Üçadalar islets abeam port; o/c 200°M.

1310    Anchored in 30’, Çineviz Liman.

1315    Eng. secured.

 

22 May – Tues.

 

            Correspondence.

 

23 May – Wed.

 

0545    Eng. on.

0555    Anchor up; u/w from Çineviz Liman.

0640    Av. Burnu abeam stbd.

0720    Kucukcavus br. lt. abeam stbd.  SMG = 4.5.

0900    Taslik Burnu abeam stbd;  o/c 265°M.

1215    Light breeze from WSW; up main & large jib.  Motorsail.

1415    Approach Kekova Rds.  Down jib & main.

1445    Anchored in 25’, Gökkaya Liman.

1450    Eng. secured.

 

24 May – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.

1145    Eng. checks, eng. on.

1155    u/w from Gökkaya Liman to Uçagiz Liman.

1300    Anchored in 25’, Uçagiz Liman, eng. secured.

 

25 May – Fri.

 

a.m.     Visit by German family.  Charles to see “Sunken City”.

            Correspondence; sort photos.

p.m.     Scrub waterline & prop.  Slime, grass; no barnacles.

 

26 May – Sat.

 

a.m.     Continue sorting photos & organizing albums.

0950    Warm up engine prior to oil change.

            Change oil & filter.  Top off with Esso Extra 20/50W oil.  Change primary & secondary fuel filters.  Xfer fuel.  Replaced stripped bolt on top of secondary fuel filter housing.  Clean eng. drip pan.

 

27 May – Sun.

 

a.m.     Finish sorting photos.  Replace fuse holder on stereo; tie down wires, etc.  Charles to visit friends in nearby village.

p.m.     Charles ashore overnight…

 

28 May – Mon.

 

p.m.     Exercise eng./charge start battery.

1330    Wind increasing to 20+ kts. WSW.  Very warm.  This must be our first taste of the “Meltem.”[19]

2130    Near calm.

 

29 May – Tues.

 

0450    Calm;  prepare to get u/w.

0535    Eng. on.

0545    u/w from Uçagiz Liman.

0945    Anchor @ Bayindir Liman; dragging; re-anchor –

1015    Too close to rocks; u/w to find alt. anchorage.

1100    Anchored in 50’ sand, Longos anchorage, Kaş Liman.

1145    Ashore to Kaş  for petrol, P.O., shopping.

1330    Meltem setting – wind WSW @ 15-18.

1530    Stern line ashore due to weird, shifting winds…!

1900    Wind easing, but still “weird”.  Some sloppy chop.

 

30 May – Wed.

 

0530    Prepare to get u/w.  Shorten anchor, recover stern line.

0555    Eng. on.

0605    u/w from Longos anchorage.

0625    Çukurbag Burnu point abeam stbd.  o/c 280°M.  Calm.  Motoring at 1500 RPM’s.

0905    Moored bow-to, Kalkan Marina.  Stern anchor out.  SMG = 4.5.      

            Fresh water washdown foredeck & dinghy.  Top off tanks & tighten port gate stanchion.

2230    Re-secure stern anchor rode after tangling with Swedish boat…

 

31 May – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Laundry.  Fend off large charter boat on port side!  Shift moorings slightly.

p.m.     Barometric pressure down.  Delay departure one day.

 

1 June – Fri.

 

            What is so rare as a day in June….

 

a.m.     Pressure still down, cloudy, wind shifty & surge in harbor.

later..   Wind gusts from WNW to 20 kts.

            Begin work on fender covers.

1735    Exercise eng., chg. batteries.

 

2 June – Sat.

 

a.m.     Continued gusty WNW winds & surge in harbor.       

            Wx report forecasts gale force winds and high seas in area.

            Finish work on fender covers.

p.m.     Fresh winds continuing…

 

3 June

 

a.m.     Some respite during the night, but wind up again by 1000.  Fresh all day.

p.m.     Stow gear & prepare for departure early tomorrow.  Large motor yachts moored both sides making a “Rhysling sandwich!”.

late

p.m.     Calm (finally).

 

4 June – Mon.

 

0130    Continued calm.

0145    Prepare to get u/w; eng. on.

0155    Lines away.  Fouled on large fisherman anchor.

0220    Anchor free; u/w from Kalkan.

0300    E Çatal Adalar Is. abeam port; o/c 270°M.

0345    o/c 305°M

0710    Kötü Burnu abeam stbd., o/c 012°M.  SMG = 4.4.

0935    Iblis Burnu abeam stbd., o/c 012°M.  SMG = 4.4.

            Continued calm, slight swell.  Motoring @ 1600 RPM.

1200    Anchored in 30-40’, Fethiye.

            Field day cockpit & cushions.  Scrub aft deck, organize lazarette.

 

5 June – Tues.

 

a.m.     P.O., shopping, errands.

p.m.     Check for possible air leaks in fuel line by secondary fuel filter (still late starting).

1920    Eng. test & charge batteries.

1940    Eng. secured – all okay.

 

6 June – Wed.

 

a.m.     Visit museum & rock tombs.

            Correspondence.

1900    Exercise engine (6 sec. start).  charge start battery.

1920    Eng. secured – all okay.

 

7 June – Thurs.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Scrub waterline.

1910    Exercise engine, charge start battery (30 sec. start).

1930    Eng. secured.

 

8 June – Fri.

 

a.m.     Correspondence, shopping, P.O., etc.

 

9 June – Sat.

 

0845    Prepare to get u/w.

0910    Eng. on.

0920    u/w from Fethiye.

1045    Light breeze from W.  Up large jib; eng. secured.

1205    Calm.  Down jib; eng. on.   Motoring @ 1200 RPM to Boynuz Bükü.

1320    Anchored in 30’, Boynuz Bükü.

1330    Re-anchored in 30’ for more swinging room.

 

10 June – Sun.

 

a.m.     Laundry day – water from stream piped to foot of wooden jetty…

p.m.     Rinse out foul weather gear & misc. items.  Good opportunity.

 

11 June – Mon.

 

a.m.     More washing.

noon    Hike to mountain spring.

p.m.     Dinner ashore “on the house”.  Guest book started for Türan and Salih.  Magic show...

 

12 June – Tues.

 

a.m.     Washing again.

p.m.     Stow gear; prepare to get u/w.

1925    Shorten scope.

1930    Eng. on.

1940    Eng. on; u/w from Boynuz Bükü. Calm.  Motoring @ 1500 RPM’s.

2310    Peksimet Ad. Is. abeam port; continuing o/c 265°M.  Seas lumpy & confused with W wind 16-18 kts…

 

13 June – Wed.

 

0015    Wind WNW @ 18-20, up main.

0030    Up #2 jib; eng. secured.  o/c 240-250°M.

0045    Wind increasing to 20+ kts.  Seas building.

0100    Single reef in main.

0330    Wind abating slightly as we near Rhodos…

0700    Wind up again… 20+.

0830    Wind dropping, ugly chop.

0900    Wind increasing.  20+.

1030    Wind dropping & shifting to WSW.

1100    Shake out reef in main.

1200    Tacking along coast.

1330    Wind increasing to 20+ kts., continue tacking…

1515    Approach Serçe Liman anchorage.  Down main; eng. on.

1525    Down jib.

1535    Anchored in 35’, Serçe Liman anchorage,  Meltram.  Continuing with fresh 18-20 kt. winds.

 

14 June – Thurs.

 

0445    Prepare to get u/w.

0800    S end of Nisos Simi Is. abeam stbd, o/c 285°M. Calm, continue motoring @ 1500 RPM.

1100    Wind filling from WSW.  Up single reefed main (anticipating fresh winds this p.m.)…

1120    Up #2 jib.

1310    Eng. secured, various tacks to clear headland for course to Bodrum.  Wind WNW 18-20.

1520    Calm!  Eng. on; down jib.

1535    Wind – 18-20 kts. – Motorsail to clear headland.  Frustration plus!

1600    Deveboynu Burnu lighthouse abeam stbd., o/c 000°M, up #2 jib; eng. secured.

1605    Wind drop to 6 kts.

1610    Wind up to 18+ kts.  Good sailing now but very inconsistent winds…

1655    Wind dropping (again!).  Eng. on., motorsail @ 1500 RPM to make anchorage before nightfall…

1700    Calm (?!).  Down jib.

1805    Wind 20-25.  Engine secured.

1900    Winds 25+, great sailing!  Moving nicely with single reefed main & #2 jib.  Seas small.  Hoping to make it to Bodrum before dark.

1930    Wind dropping; approaching abeam Kara Ada Is.  Eng. on, motorsail o/c 000°M.

2000    Sails down.

2015    Anchored in 10’, Bodrum harbor.  Eng. secured.

 

15 June – Fri.

 

0955    Anchor dragging.  Eng. on.

1010    Re-anchored in 15’.  (Wind 15-18 with 20 kt. gusts).

 

16 June – Sat.

 

a.m.     Errands – P.O., eng. oil, varnish, etc.

p.m.     Check & add water to engine start battery.  Adjust xmission, change eng. oil & filter.  Tighten banjo bolts on fuel return line @ secondary fuel filter.  Clean drip pan.

 

17 June – Sun.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Sightseeing to Bodrum Castle.

p.m.     Eng. check & exercise (20 min).

 

18 June – Mon.

 

a.m.     Check yards for haulout.  Cheapest so far US$350.00.

p.m.     Visit with Çengiz & Laurie on yacht “Bettie” for local info.

 

19 June – Tues.

 

a.m.     Correspondence; more water to eng. start battery.  All cells topped off.

p.m.     Fabricate insert boards for lower bunk in fwd. cabin.  Draw pattern for cushion insert.  Replace screen for shower drain in head.  Exercise engine.

 

20 June – Wed.

 

a.m.     Cut out new foam for cushion insert.  Sew and cover foam.  Sand plugs & wax teak brace for new V-berth.  Wax teak in galley where needed.

 

21 June – Thurs.  ~~~ ☼  Summer Solstice ~~~

 

a.m.     To boatyards with Çengiz to check on haulout & paint.  May be possible with “Yat Lift” at 250.00.  Also check for filling gas (LPG) bottles.

 

22 June – Fri.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  To P.O. & check for haulout…

1050    Dinghy aboard, eng. on.

1055    u/w to boat yard.

1130    Moored in slipway by.

1135    Eng. secured.

1155    Travelift in place.

1230    Rhysling on the hard.  Commence scraping & scrubbing bottom.

1830    Bottom cleaned.

 

23 June – Sat.

 

am/

pm       Replace zincs.  Spot sand & feather around small areas on hull.  Paint out 2 coats “Transocean Long Life” anti-fouling.  Total 14 kilos (8 ltrs?).  1st coat – 1000-1200.  2nd coat 1300-1500.  Roll & brush.

 

24 June – Sun.

 

am/

pm       Mask and paint waterline 2 coats (plus some…) of Polimarin “Non Stop” self polishing anti-fouling (blue).  Clean prop & antifoul with same.  Prepare and fill small voids in rudder & near shoe with Marine Tex epoxy.  Also fair around fathometer transducer housing and head sink discharge thru-hull with same.  Re-adjust reverse gear in gearbox.  Add one ring of flax to packing gland;  lube threads & tighten.  Re-insert outer (aft) ring (seal ?) in packing gland.

 

late

p.m.     Fresh NNW wind.  Very hot.

 

25 June – Mon.

 

0845    Travelift in place.

0900    Boat in water, re-fit forestay.

0930    Eng. on.

0935    u/w to Bodrum harbor.

1000    Anchored in 20’, Bodrum harbor.  Eng. secured.

1100    Ashore on errands; P.O., bank, etc.

 

26 June – Tues.

 

a.m.     Pick up filled LPG bottle (cost:  10,000TL – US$3.85).

            Shopping & errands.  Adjust packing gland.

 

27 June – Wed.

 

a.m.     Correspondence.  Laundry.  Sand & 2nd coat varnish hatches.  Tune forestay.

 

29 June – Fri.

 

a.m.     Market day.  3rd coat varnish on hatches.

p.m.     Exercise engine.

 

30 June – Sat.

 

            Correspondence.  Clean & polish lifeline stanchions.

 

 

THIS LOG CONTINUED IN VOL IV.

 

                       

                                    [signed]

                                    Michael P. Bates

                                    30 June 1990

 

 

 

 

 


[1] The “Hourglass” is the Kwajalein  newspaper

[2] May 16 was Mike’s birthday

[3] Salt water

[4] Local Apparent Noon (the time at which the sun passes directly overhead, indicated in the Nautical Almanac)

[5] Seizing wire wrapped thru shackle pin to prevent accidental opening.

[6] Charles Mensen Nemil – Mike’s adopted son-to-be.

[7] Life Raft

[8] Indian Ocean

[9] Large-scale

[10] Stand By

[11] Sailing-dinghy and/or wind-surfer mast(s), presumably, which were lashed on deck.

[12] Jack O’Lantern drawing accompanied by a ‘word balloon’ saying “big mamboo” – an inside joke between Mike and Charles, one of his Papua New Guinea crew members.

[13] Don Windsor is/was a ship’s agent and widely known friend to visiting yachts

[14] Very Large Cargo/Container Carrier

[15] Stand By

[16] Short Wave

[17] Triatic stay – a rigging wire between the top of the main mast to the top of the mizzen mast.

[18] This entry is one of the first in Charles’ handwriting.

[19] [sic] – Usually spelled ‘Meltemi’, a Mistral-like offshore wind in the Mediterranean.